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any preferences for after market wire harnesses?
33 hotrod - Getting ready to tackle the wiring. Got rid of the included RF harness as I have read of too many issues re: making the reworked MK 1v harness work in the hotrod. Besides, I want to put things where I want them, not where limited due to everything already terminated and bundled. Anybody have any favorites or suggestions? Any real difference between the usual big names? Will be running a Holley LS Terminator w/manual trans setup so the engine/ignition portion is pretty much already covered. Thanks!
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If I was to do it again I'd consider putting the fuse box and maybe the ECU's in the trunk.
Under the dash is a jungle of wiring with the chassis fuse box, engine fuse box, and engine and tranny ECU's.
I shortened a lot of them, removed the corrugated tubing and wrapped them with cloth tape.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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I used a Speedway Motors 22 circuit harness 910-64022, pleased with it.
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I used Infinity Box Can Bus system, easy to install with a lot less wiring.
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Originally Posted by
JimLev
If I was to do it again I'd consider putting the fuse box and maybe the ECU's in the trunk.
Under the dash is a jungle of wiring with the chassis fuse box, engine fuse box, and engine and tranny ECU's.
I shortened a lot of them, removed the corrugated tubing and wrapped them with cloth tape.
That's kind of what I was thinking - put most of that stuff on the forward wall of the trunk.
I know the Speedway harness is priced right, I assume it is offshore sourced. I don't mind paying a little extra though for the better quality of one of the name brands.
I did look at the Infinity system also - but I don't think I am willing to spend that kind of $ for the perceived benefits. I know some love it but I have also heard of a few issues; namely a somewhat high parasitic draw. I think I would rather stick to simple hi quality wiring.
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I bought the American Autowire Highway 22 wiring kit from Summit. Seems like very high quality and allows mounting the fuse panel wherever I want since all connections to the panel are by screw terminals. For that same reason, all wiring is point-to-point and can be routed and bundled as desired. I'm deciding now whether to put the panel in the trunk, in the center console or under the dash. Keith HR #894
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Drill that trunk panel before it's mounted, the fuel tank is just behind it.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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I really like the Painless harnesses. One advantage to them over others is the overall thickness of the wire bundles. I think there coating is much thinner resulting in a smaller bundle.
Mike
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Senior Member
After completing the wiring with the supplied RF harness and having to trace a couple issues I realized the RF harness had to go.
I ordered the infinity box CAN bus system 15 December. Still waiting on delivery.
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Originally Posted by
JimLev
If I was to do it again I'd consider putting the fuse box and maybe the ECU's in the trunk.
Under the dash is a jungle of wiring with the chassis fuse box, engine fuse box, and engine and tranny ECU's.
I shortened a lot of them, removed the corrugated tubing and wrapped them with cloth tape.
Disclaimer: I do not have a 33.
But, when I re-wired my roadster last year, I did mount the fuse box in the trunk. The wiring was just as you have envisioned it, the under dash wiring was less complicated, and I was able to lay it out easier..
Word of warning though..... I bought a trunk mount painless wiring kit, and they assured me that the wiring gauge was upgraded to account for the extra run length. The wire gauge was not upgraded. Only the length of the wire was changed. In the end it was OK, because I only used their wiring as trigger wires for the relays, but it did irritate me that they did not do what they said that they would do. The premium price of a trunk mounted harness was not necessary.
If I were to do it again, I would start with a un-wired fuse box and a bag of wire to make my own harness.
Derald.
MK2 #3319.... On the road since 2002 with a lot of upgrades
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I've used a "Ron Francis" harness on another project and they are of good quality. If you still have the body off and elect to mount the panel on the firewall consider welding small clips on the framework to help route the wires. As pointed out above it can get really messy with lose wires floating around. eclips.jpgeclips.jpgeclips.jpg
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American Auto Wire Highway series. I have used that series harness for 3 different builds and will use again.
Olli
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Member
Originally Posted by
Tampa33Build
After completing the wiring with the supplied RF harness and having to trace a couple issues I realized the RF harness had to go.
I ordered the infinity box CAN bus system 15 December. Still waiting on delivery.
Hey Tampa,
I ordered it as well 3 weeks ago, haven't heard a thing. How long before it finally arrived?
Gen 2 33 Hot Rod ordered 05/06/2020, Blueprint engines SBC 400 c.i. fuel injected, TCI 700R4, Holly Sniper EFI, 3-link, Roadster (no top or windows), carbon fiber bike fenders and engine covers, A/C, Wilwood brakes, Infinitybox electrical system, Lokar shifter, Dakota Digital HDX gauge cluster, Schott Wheels Challenger EXL front 18x8 and rear 19x11, with Nitto 555 G2 tires front 235/40R-18 and rear 305/30R-19.
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Senior Member
Roger,
I recommend adding the inRESERVE, I added it afterwards and had to reprogram. I have schematic of my Infinity wiring you are welcome to a copy, PM me with email.
Neil
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Senior Member
I used Infinity Box on my 33 and Cobra. Used Coach Controls system on my latest build, a 53 Chevy pickup. A very good product. Great support.
Chuck
Chuck
Mk1, MK3, Hotrod, Gen 3 Daytona Coupe, RF GT40
Hang Up and Drive
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Senior Member
After completing our build my son, who did the bulk of the wiring said, NEVER AGAIN, the next one (which will likely be a 35 Truck), will be wired completely by himself. That way he can delete any wiring that is not used. This way it can be kept simple.
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife!
)
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
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Originally Posted by
AJT '33
After completing our build my son, who did the bulk of the wiring said, NEVER AGAIN, the next one (which will likely be a 35 Truck), will be wired completely by himself. That way he can delete any wiring that is not used. This way it can be kept simple.
While the supplied loom is not perfect, it's a good base. I also had to convert to RHD so struck some issues with length of wires among other things. As others have done, remove the corrigated tubing, work out what you can remove and de-pin it from each plug. I found that I added more than I removed though. Then just tape up the loom with cloth tape (no corry tubing) - you end up with a smaller, more flexible loom.
A bus system like Infinity Box would certainly make installation easier, but I'm an industrial controls technician and I know how difficult faults can be to diagnose on a bus system.....
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