Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

1. Delivery

2. Inventory Complete and First Impressions

3. Build Planning

4. Suspension Assembly Prep Including IRS

5. Front Suspension

6. Center Section Installed, Wilwood Brakes, Fan Shroud, E-Brake

7. Gas Tank and Interior

8. Electrical and Seats

9. IRS Completion, Mock-Up Block

10. LED Lighting

11. Radiator Tunnel, Seats, Rear Wheel Spacers

12. Engine Mock-up, Seats, T-56, Interior

13. Engine Installation Mock-Up

14. Fuel and Brake Lines

15. A/C – Heater – Defroster

16. First Look Gen 3 Coyote

17. Trunk Box Fabrication

18. Windshield Wipers, Locking Gas Cap, Interior

19. Aluminum Panels

20. Instrument Panel and Interior, Final Plan

21. Glovebox

22. Switch Panel and Gauges

23. Driveshaft Safety Loop

24. More Aluminum Panels

25. Electronic Content

26. Panels and Insulation

[edwardb]

27. Seat Installation

28. Lizard Skin Application

29. Gen 3 Coyote Received and Fitment (scroll multiple pages for additional activity)

30. Main Power, Coyote Power Wiring

31. Gen 3 Coyote Installation

32. Power Steering, A/C – Heater – Defroster, Radiator Plumbing

33. Gen 3 Coyote CMCV and Vacuum Plumbing

34. Cockpit Wiring

35. First Start

36. Alignment

37. Body Installation (scroll multiple pages for additional activity)

38. Side Windows

39. Hood Rollers

40. Rear Hatch

41. Custom Gen 3 Coyote Engine Cover

42. Door Cards

43. Quarter Window Scoops and Fill Panels

44. Headers, Sidepipes, First Drive

45. Body Undercoat

46. Paint (scroll multiple pages for additional activity)

47. Final Assembly (scroll multiple pages for additional activity)

48. Windshield Installation

49. Quick Release Steering Wheel

50. Completed and 2020 Detroit Autorama

51. Air Conditioning Charge

52. Legal, First Drive, Gen 3 Coyote Custom Tune, Graduation

53. 1,000 Mile Report

54. First season recap and adjustments

55. Windshield replacement

56. 5,000 Mile Report

[GoDadGo]

Paul,

You should have called this update:

Paul's 52 Step Guide For Building The Perfect Type-65 Coupe!

Thanks for letting the entire Factory Five Family get to watch your latest build.

Steve

PS: What's Next; A Shop Truck?

[Caddy Dad]

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the ToC. It'll help a lot going forward. Also, I'm curious to find out your opinion on building and driving the Coupe vs Roadster. I know it's still early on driving experience with your Coupe, but which one do you enjoy more? Which one challenged you more in the build? If you had to pick one to do over again, which one would it be? I know it's kind of like some asking who is your favorite child, but enquiring minds want to know ;-)

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

[edwardb]

Paul,

You should have called this update:

Paul's 52 Step Guide For Building The Perfect Type-65 Coupe!

Thanks for letting the entire Factory Five Family get to watch your latest build.

Steve

PS: What's Next; A Shop Truck?

Thanks Steve. You're too funny. I wouldn't presume to calling it that. Have seen some beautiful builds. But certainly is my take and really happy with it. Don't have a next project yet. Not going through build withdrawal yet, but expect it to set in soon. My challenge is I can't possibly justify another with two already on hand. Plus don't have the room. So one would have to go, and don't see that happening right now. See my next answer.

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the ToC. It'll help a lot going forward. Also, I'm curious to find out your opinion on building and driving the Coupe vs Roadster. I know it's still early on driving experience with your Coupe, but which one do you enjoy more? Which one challenged you more in the build? If you had to pick one to do over again, which one would it be? I know it's kind of like some asking who is your favorite child, but enquiring minds want to know ;-)

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

Thanks. Let's see... Yes, I think the Coupe is more challenging than the Roadster. Even after building a couple Roadsters. Mainly the body fitting and the interior tends to get more complicated. At least it did in my case. On the flip side, it does have more room in the engine compartment and transmission tunnel. So that made the Coyote and T-56 installation pretty easy in comparison. Way too early to say which we prefer. With less than 20 miles on the Coupe, can't say too much yet. If feels and drives a lot like the Roadster. I wouldn't say it's noisy. But it's not quiet either. Even with all the insulation and sealing I did. That's not a negative because it's probably quieter than the Roadster. But people who think because it's enclosed it's going to be quiet will be maybe surprised. It feels a little "closed in" compared to the Roadster. But that's not because it's dimensionally any smaller. All dimensions are the same or more. Just the feeling from the roof, roll cage, etc. Expect will get used to that with more driving. Definitely a little harder to get in and out of compared to the open top Roadster. I suspect similar to a Roadster with a top. But can't say for sure because haven't had one. I can say I immediately appreciate the closed top with some climate control. Drives to date have been when the outside temp was in the 40's. Cold ride in the Roadster. Not a problem at all in the Coupe. So the idea that it will extend the driving season a bit seems reasonable. Also first impressions are that it's a bit challenging to see out of. Long nose, small side windows, narrow view out the back hatch. Will get used to that too, but will need to be especially careful. Which one to choose? Don't know and right now not going to try.

[BTHWarrior]

Paul,
Another incredible build! Stop setting the bar so high for us first time builders!!! I hope one day you will rewrite the roadster/coupe build manuals so they are more of a how to, then a suggestive guide. One day I will finish my roadster and I hope it turns out half as good as yours. Thanks for the extra effort you put into your builds documenting each step and assisting others with their builds.

[progmgr1]

Thanks, Paul! The ToC will be very useful, especially for the "Google impaired" among us. I know I've spent hours searching the thread for some specific tidbit that I saw once and didn't realize its importance until later.

Now, the big ask: please consider doing the same for your 20th Anniversary Roadster build thread. A number of us still dig through that one too - especially the Gen 2 Coyote owners.

Thanks again for sharing your gorgeous builds, and for the thorough documentation of the process and procedures. Your insights into building these cars and the multitude of build tips are very helpful for us novice builders.

Cheers! Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

Thought I’d do a post with some observations and follow-up on a few loose ends. Still very early in my driving experience with a grand total of 37 miles So, I expect there will be more when I can drive more. But certainly time now to write something up.

As stated previously, first impressions driving are all very positive. Since it’s configured similarly to my 20th Anniversary Roadster, feels a lot the same. Haven’t had it on rough enough roads to tell if the chassis feels stiffer, although I know technically it is. Longer wheelbase does seem a little noticeable. Can’t tell much difference with the wider 275 front tires. The feel of the KRC power steering is perfect using the smaller spool valve. The T-56 shifts perfectly and the clutch (more later) feels great. Love the speed sensitive reverse lockout. I'm finding I usually leave the steering wheel in place when climbing in. Kind of slide right past it. But for getting out, it's way easier with it removed. So really happy I added that feature at the last minute. As I mentioned before probably the biggest difference is the long nose and it’s generally harder to see out of. I’d really recommend to future builders to do as much as you can to have proper mirrors all around. A buddy suggested a full-time rear-view camera. I chose not to, and don’t necessarily regret it. But can see why that might be a good idea. The Gen 3 Coyote continues to start and run perfectly after the Lund Racing tune. Zero DTC's since the tune activity. As I wrote on Facebook, we used the Coupe to retrieve a take-out meal from our favorite restaurant last week. Was 12-15 miles out and back, so the longest drive yet. My wife went along and she gave it two thumbs up. (The car and the meal). Wore ear plugs and decided that will be standard. Just like in the Roadster. Had my first “What is that?” question from another driver while waiting for our food to come out. Suspect that’s going to be a common occurrence.

There was a lot of discussion in the build thread about where I chose to place the Mustang style Moroso cooling expansion tank. Sidebar: On both of my Coyote builds I’ve chosen to replicate the Ford designed cooling hoses, tank and filler. As opposed to the kit instructions to basically block everything off and use a T-filler in the upper hose along with an overflow tank. In addition to being sealed, the OE setup is self-burping and just works. Anyway, due to the chassis design, available space, etc. I chose to mount the expansion tank where it was somewhat lower than in the Roadster and also in a Mustang. What I have found is that it works just fine. After the initial coolant fill and several engine runs to full operating temp, the level dropped just like it should have as air was evacuated from the system. Filled it back up and I’ve checked it several times since. Right where it should be. I’ve had the engine to operating temp a number of times, and it locks in at the 190/195/198 range just as it should. Related to this, I’ve confirmed that Ford Performance definitely altered the Gen 3 crate motor program for the radiator cooling fan. Rather than basically running all the time like on the Gen 2, the fan switches on around 190/195, and then goes back off when the temp drops. In cooler weather like now, it basically doesn’t run. That’s a welcome change from the Gen 2.

For the ride height, the build manual says 4-1/2 inches front and back. That looked high to me with too much gap between the tires and wheel arches on the body. After some experimenting throughout the build, I’m now at 3-1/4 inches in the front and 3-3/4 inches in the back. I’ve had to adjust the coilovers a couple times to keep those settings. Totally normal as it’s breaking in and settling. That makes it a little low in the front so need to watch where I drive. But don’t think it will be a problem. The difference front to back gives it a little rake, plus maybe helps a little to see over the nose.

For the alignment, I roughly set it during the build, got it really close during final assembly, and just this weekend went through everything again to where I’m happy with it. It’s not much fun doing the rear IRS settings with the body on but got through it. Once finalized, used red Loctite on the rear IRS adjustment nuts and put on witness marks. This also per FF instructions. Did the same thing on my Roadster three seasons ago and have watched it. Nothing has moved. BTW, while on the subject, I suggest witness marks on the rear axle nuts and the front upper ball joints as well. Then did the front suspension which was really close and didn't need much. Figures, since it's wide open access with the hood up. Really like my new (with this build) Longacre 78298 caster camber gauge. Readings seem to be very accurate and repeatable. My only complaint is since it’s digital, I find myself chasing .1 degree differences that I could never remotely see on the previous FasTrax unit with a pointer and lines. OK, maybe that's a personal issue. The QuickTrick turn plates I’m using now are also a big upgrade over the trash bags I used before. While on the subject of alignment, I didn’t have to cut anything on the UCA’s to easily get 8 degrees of caster recommended for power steering. Maybe FF did something different on the Gen 3 Coupe chassis since power steering is perhaps more common now. Whatever, I would recommend that builders not be in a hurry to cut those until they’ve tried to align it. Seems won’t be required.

Another thing I tried on this build was a hydraulic throwout bearing. Specifically, a Tilton 6000-Series Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB) 60-6104 along with a Wilwood 13/16 inch MC. This resulted in lots of discussion in the build thread. Granted the experience so far is limited. But I’m very impressed. Compared to the usual hydraulic master/slave setup on the clutch arm, it’s economical, easy to install, and self-adjusting. The feel, contact point, etc. is very smooth. But mostly I’m amazed how much less the effort is. It’s not subtle, it’s a lot. I have the exact flywheel, clutch, and pedal box setup in my Roadster. The other day I hopped in the Roadster to move it around and was shocked how much stiffer the clutch pedal felt after getting used to the Coupe some. I know the knock on the HRB setup as been they aren’t reliable and if there’s a failure the transmission has to come out. We’ll see about the reliability part, but Tilton makes good stuff. So I’m optimistic. It’s not like once you put the transmission in it never has to come out. Clutch replacement and traditional throw-out bearings also require it to come out. The good news I guess is that the Coupe chassis is much more wide open and it would be relatively easy to drop the transmission. Well as much as a 120 pound T-56 would be easy. I noticed on FF’s order sheet the other day they’re now offering an optional hydraulic throw-out bearing. Interesting. Anyway, at this stage is something I would recommend other builders at least consider.

Finally, one thing I have noticed in my driving so far is kind of a vibration from the inside panels below the doors. You don't hear it. But can feel it if you touch it or rest your leg against it. It’s not a big deal and something I’m sure I’ll get used to. I checked, and my engine is running smooth enough. The headers and pipes aren’t loose. The pipe hangars are installed and don’t seem to vibrate much. I’m guessing it’s mostly just because of how close the side pipes are to the body and they’re just on the other side of where you’re sitting. Not like on the Roadster where they’re further away and much lower. Plus the pipe exits are right outside the back of the door and maybe there are some pulses from there. I have the usual (for me) Lizard Skin and carpet on the inside. If I had to do it all over again, I’d consider adding a bunch of insulation on the other side of that panel. Maybe several layers at least. There’s plenty of room. The area outlined in this picture from early in the build. Too late for me since everything is sealed up by the body. But something other builders may want to consider. Curious if anyone else has noticed. Again, not a big deal. Just in that mode with a new build where you notice everything.

That's it. Just need to drive it more.

[Kool AC]

Thanks for the update Paul. Especially glad to hear the Gen 3 Coyote is running well.

[edwardb]

Literally the last thing on my build plan is a car cover. Thought I’d share what’s happening there, which may be of interest to some other Gen 3 Coupe builders. For my Roadster, I purchased a Weathershield HP cover from Car Cover World some years ago for my first Roadster and have used it ever since. They have patterns for various Factory Five Roadster versions, one or two rolls bars, etc. and mine fits exceptionally well. It fits into a relatively small bag and has held up to some monsoon rainstorms. Still in perfect condition.

So, I wanted a cover like that for the Coupe. Contacted them, and they have patterns for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coupe. But not the Gen 3. They said they could make one for me if I completed a measurement worksheet plus a $35 design fee. I’ve worked with them to complete the process. There were 24 measurements, which I completed as carefully as I could. Spent time on the phone going over them and comparing to the same set of measurements for a Gen 2. Seemed reasonable so I placed the order. They originally said it would be at least 8-10 weeks since their factories are slowed down by the current situation. But I did receive notice last week that my cover is “in production” and should be done in about 30 days. So that’s promising. Once I receive it, I’ll check the fit of course. It can be sent back and adjusted if necessary but hopefully that won’t be the case. Once the measurements and layout are confirmed, others should be able to order the Gen 3 without additional measuring or the design fee. I’ll post the results. The custom cover itself made from Weathershield HP is $345 BTW.

One other point. Since my Gen 3 has the rather prominent mirrors, those need what they call “mirror pockets” which they’re going to make. But by policy the factory won’t sew them to the cover. They said they’ve had too many instances where the location didn’t fit correctly. So, my option is to mark the locations and send the cover back for them to sew at no charge. Or make arrangements to sew them locally or myself. TBD on that one.

So, on the subject of covers, the other day I was watching some YouTube videos of Coyote swaps. This one happened to be in a 70’s vintage F100 pickup. Interesting. Anyway, I saw they had fabricated a nice cover that went over the PCM. With time on my hands due to our famous Michigan lockdown, and me never particularly liking the prominent visible location I ended up with for my Gen 3 Coyote PCM, decided to try to make up something. Played around with some patterns out of cardboard, decided what I wanted to do, and cut and bent the cover out of .040 aluminum. Stretched the capability of my cheapo 30-inch HF brake. A decent box brake needs to be in my future sometime. But got it done. Before bending, cut cooling slots in the top using a plunge router and a fixture I made from some scrap wood. With a sharp carbide bit the thin 6061 cuts pretty easily. Has mounting tabs in the back held with 10-32 nutserts into the frame and button head screws. The front has small D-tube cushion along the top and neoprene cushioning material against the PCM mounting ears. Not going anywhere. I would have liked to powder coat it. But those places are closed now and when they finally open, expect will be backed up for a long time. So, painted it with some Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin rattle can paint I had on hand and called it good enough. Stuck a Ford Performance sticker on it to make it look official. Looks a little appliance-like. But cleaner than the PCM hanging out in the open.

Turned 50 miles in the Coupe the other day making another take-out meal run. Like it but really want to be driving it way more. Hopefully not too much longer.

[timsmitaruba]

Hi I did ask you this before but cant find the answer you gave me. Where did you get the Ford Emblems? And do you have the # for it?
Thx in advance, and great job man!

[edwardb]

Hi I did ask you this before but cant find the answer you gave me. Where did you get the Ford Emblems? And do you have the # for it?
Thx in advance, and great job man!

Thanks. I assume you mean the ones on the hood sides by the latches and grilles? Those are Ford Performance M-16098-PBFP. I got them from Summit. But I've seem them listed at multiple sources, so widely available. Nice pieces.

[nelsond003]

Love your engine cover. I hope you don't mind me copying that design for my Gen 3 intake

[GashF16]

Finally, one thing I have noticed in my driving so far is kind of a vibration from the inside panels below the doors. You don't hear it. But can feel it if you touch it or rest your leg against it.

Thanks edwardb. I will beef up the insulation in this area. It sort of reminds me of shooting the gun in the F-16. We had a 6-barrel gatling gun shooting 20mm rounds at 6000 rounds per minute, and the damn thing was mounted in the fuselage just a couple feet away from my left arm. The first time I shot the gun, my mouth was open a little bit. The concussion rattled my teeth and made my head ring. After that I learned to close my mouth and grit my teeth a little before squeezing the trigger!

[edwardb]

Love your engine cover. I hope you don't mind me copying that design for my Gen 3 intake

Sure! Copy away. Would like to see what you come up with.

Thanks edwardb. I will beef up the insulation in this area. It sort of reminds me of shooting the gun in the F-16. We had a 6-barrel gatling gun shooting 20mm rounds at 6000 rounds per minute, and the damn thing was mounted in the fuselage just a couple feet away from my left arm. The first time I shot the gun, my mouth was open a little bit. The concussion rattled my teeth and made my head ring. After that I learned to close my mouth and grit my teeth a little before squeezing the trigger!

No experience with the F-16 () but I'm pretty confident the Coupe isn't that bad. That area has a lot of clearance to the body. So put a good layer in there. Can't hurt.

[edwardb]

Several more things to report on. Plus, I’ll add some observations after 127 miles.

During the build I replaced the kit supplied black plastic defroster grilles with some more blingy Vintage Air billet aluminum ones. Nice, but guess what reflects badly onto the windshield while driving? Bright aluminum colored grilles. Should have seen that coming! So off they came and painted with some satin black. Could have put the plastic ones on. But there’s a principle at work here. Still have the upgraded ones, even though now they look just like the plastic originals.

Another observation during driving was no windshield visors. Didn’t bother me much. But did get some comments from my wife who is more sensitive to light. Didn't want to use solid visors, so looked for some in tinted acrylic. Like what’s often used in airplanes. Also used for the Roadster but in that case more for wind. Found tinted visors are popular with the off-road crowd and roll bar mounts are often used. So, with a lot of searching, came up with these from Wild Horses Four Wheel Drive in California. 3819NET 12 in. wide roll bar sun visor w/tinted shield. Available for 1.625 in. roll bar. Not cheap at $150 (there’s that nasty budget thing again…) but I will say they’re super high quality. All billet aluminum mounts and very nicely made. I ended up trimming about an inch off the bottom. I wanted them to fold forward up and out of the way and they were slightly too wide. Still accomplishes the intended purpose and keeps my better half happy.



With the current shutdown situation, our Secretary of State office (Michigan’s version of the DMV) has been closed. I was able to complete my title application and registration just a couple days before they shut down. I was given a paper tag until my personalized plate arrived in the mail. But fully expected that to be delayed. Surprised to find it in the mailbox recently. So now I’m 100% legal and with a finished plate. I drug out a license plate frame that I had on the Mk3. Doesn’t fit on the Mk4’s but fits fine on the Coupe. Cleaned three seasons of dirt and corrosion, and good to go.



My very last shopping list item, which I mentioned before, was a car cover. Really like the Weathershield HP Roadster cover from Car Cover World. So, wanted to order the same thing for the Coupe. As I also mentioned before, they didn’t have a pattern for the Gen 3 Coupe. So provided all their requested dimensions and placed my order in early April. They said it would take a couple months, again due to the current situation, and they weren’t wrong. Arrived today. The fit looks good. I need to locate and sew on the provided mirror pockets. They provided detailed instructions for how to do that. I would think others could order using the same patterns. May not be on their website. But a phone call should work. Shouldn’t get charged a design fee like I was. Or spend several hours trying to take measurements. Looks like this, with mirrors removed.





Finally, thought I would list some observations after some very early seat time. As I said, only 127 miles. Mostly 5-10 at a time getting take-out meals and a few other times I just couldn’t stand it so drove a short country road loop. Really hoping in the next couple weeks things will change. But still enough miles to make these observations. Some I’ve mentioned before. But now just a few more miles:

• In many ways it feels and drives like the 20th Anniversary Roadster. No surprise since it has the exact suspension, shocks, brakes, sway bars, 18-inch wheels and power steering. Also the same BFGoodrich G-Force Rival S tires. Only difference is the Coupe has wider 275 fronts. But don’t detect any difference from that.
• The chassis is very stiff obviously. Supposedly more than the Roadster. But have to admit I don’t notice the difference. In my somewhat mild driving anyway. The longer wheelbase (95” versus 90”) is subtle but does seem a little smoother. No shakes, rattles, squeaks, whatever. All solid just like the Roadster.
• The Gen 3 Coyote, with the Lund Racing tune, is running perfectly. Starts instantly and does whatever I’ve asked it to with zero hesitation. Haven’t pushed it hard at all, but clearly has a bunch of power. “Normal” driving is peaking out at 4000 – 5000 RPM. I’ve only gotten close to the stock 7,500 redline once, and that was the wide open throttle logged run for Lund. Need the right time and place for that. Gets crazy really fast. I’ve had zero DTC’s since the custom tune was finished.
• The KRC power steering is excellent. Centering is good but maybe not quite as good as the Roadster. May adjust toe-in after driving it more extensively and in more varied situations.
• Very happy with the T-56 transmission. Shifts smooth and easy. Love the reverse lockout. It’s an easy decision for the Coupe IMO. Not convinced it’s worth the extra effort to install in the Roadster. The TKO in my Roadster also works very well.
• I can’t say I’ve noticed any difference in the Torsen diff yet. But again haven’t done much beside pretty light cruising. Can hear it clacking around a bit sometimes. Usually when you get off the gas and then back on it again. Not a big deal. Was told to expect it. Plus it’s only about 12 inches behind where you’re sitting. Or less.
• Heater works really well. Pumps out tons of hot air. That plus the heated seats I think we’re going to be OK. The A/C blows cold, is holding the charge, and shows the right readings on the gauges. Had it out on some mild days and seemed good. Had it out yesterday in some warmer weather (sunny, upper 80’s, high humidity for us anyway) for a more difficult test and still seems effective. I wouldn’t put it in the same category as the multi-zone automatic climate control in our SUV. But cruising around it was fine. When I pulled into the garage and shut down and opened the doors, realized just how warm it was and how much cooler it was inside. So I think it’s going to keep things comfortable.
• Probably one of the things I’m happiest with so far is the clutch. The Tilton hydraulic release bearing setup is smooth and noticeably much lighter effort than the Forte external slave hydraulic setup in the Roadster. I’m amazed each time I go back and forth between the two with the same clutch and flywheel on each. I know people are nervous about the reliability (so am I…) but maybe the time has come for more to consider this. It’s also cheaper and easier to set up.
• I’m getting used to climbing in and out so that’s no longer a big deal. The removable steering wheel I only take off when exiting. Don’t really need to for climbing in. Have to say though some of the improvement is finally listening to my doctor and exercising every day and being more careful with what I eat. Have shed quite a few pounds and makes a difference.
• Although very limited obviously, this car really gets a lot of attention when you’re out. The usual honks, waves, thumbs up, etc. But unlike the Roadster with the “Is it real?” question, now it’s “What is that?”

Here are a few slightly less positive observations:

• First and foremost, it’s loud. Just no way around it. Everybody says that about the Coupe. But I really hoped by doubling down on insulation, making sure it was completely sealed up, and using something beside the original steel Factory Five mufflers (not sure muffler is the right term…) it would be quieter than it is. We’re wearing our earplugs, which isn’t necessarily a surprise, but definitely mandatory. The Gas-N pipes, like their Roadster pipes, have a less harsh tone but aren’t what I’d call quiet pipes. As I said in an earlier post, if I were to do another one, I’d really build up the insulation between the body and the aluminum panels in the area of the pipes. I’m convinced the noise and vibration that close to the interior is a contributor. If you’re really concerned about noise, I’d look for quieter pipes, cats, or maybe like Erik quiet things down with turbos in the exhaust stream.
• I’m still getting used to the more closed in feeling when driving. Dimensionally, every measurement is the same or more than the Roadster. My wife is especially happy with considerably more room in the passenger side footbox. But let’s face it. These are small cars. With the open top Roadster you don’t notice it as much. Mainly I think this is just something to get used to. But I still notice it.
• Finally, don’t underestimate the limited visibility. I had a rescue vehicle come up behind me yesterday with siren on and lights flashing. Didn’t see him before I got a couple extra sounds from him and of course immediately got out of his way. Between the loud interior, ear plugs, and visibility, really have to be extra vigilant.

That’s it. Beautiful Hannah Joy was born to our youngest son and his wife one month ago today. Our fourth grandchild. They're in Texas and not sure when we'll be able to get down there. Been using the the stay at home time to rehab/refinish our basement. Finishing up the fifth room with one to go. Then going to re-side our storage shed. Glad to be getting this stuff knocked out. But man I’d rather be building and driving. Watched the Factory Five live video today and saw them unveiling the CF body for the new F9. Then Dave mentions that Erik Treves is going to be a beta builder. Couldn’t help but feel a pang of jealousy! Don’t know if that’s a build I’m really interested in. But would like to be doing something again. We’ll see.

[Erik W. Treves]

Hey Paul... Great write up.. yes the car is loud.. and I agree the pipes pounding on the side of the body is where I think a lot of the sound comes from.

I also can confirm the visibility comment... I replaced my pass. And rear view mirror with convex mirrors... Made a HUGE difference. .. much better.

I also was getting blasted inside the cockpit by the sun . It was pretty bad in Texas.. I have since place a black piece of vinyl on the top of my window about 5 inches wide .. your solution looks like a better solution... However my frit has started to pull away from the window on the top corners ... So this was a good way to fix both... Bumming about the frit .. but such is life....

Glad you got your plate... You have a very nice piece there .... Get out and enjoy... The car will really grow on you on how good it rides after about 500 miles... Then jump in the Cobra... You will notice the difference I think...

Nicely done!!

[Nigel Allen]

The KRC power steering is excellent. Centering is good but maybe not quite as good as the Roadster. May adjust toe-in after driving it more extensively and in more varied situations.

G'day Paul,

My Roadster is manual steer (haven't been able to find a RHD power steer rack yet) When it was new, the centering was non existent. If you made a turn and took your hands off of the wheel, the car would continue to turn indefinitely. There was adequate caster as well as toe-in in the set up, but not enough to overcome the stiction of the ball joints, and possibly the tie rod ends to a lesser extent. This made the car difficult to enjoy, as it was quite unnerving. I had plans to retrofit Howe Racing ball joints, but the current exchange rate made it prohibitive. An old school wheel aligning expert advised that ball joints are generally very tight these days as all cars have PS. He said the stiction issue is less noticeable on PS equipped cars. He recommended putting some kays in, as he expected the ball joints would loosen up. Over ~3,000kms the centering improved and the steering became lighter also. Now with a bit over 4,000kms showing, the stiction is completely gone and car steers like it should.

I sometimes need to remind myself that it is not just the power train that needs to be run-in on a car. The overall driveability of my Roadster has improved dramatically with some decent seat time, which is good, as i felt a bit underwhelmed at first.

Looking forward to end of restrictions.

Nigel

[David Williamson]

Paul I have similar driving experience. I have a different engine/exhaust from both you and Eric and mine is not really loud but it has a resonance and yes ear plugs are still needed. I am hoping with the rear quarter windows in the resonance will be reduced. I did double the sound insulation along the sides by the side pipes.
Compared to my Mkll with a 3 link rear the Coupe ride is much smoother and there is less wind and road noise. I have 600 km or about 400 miles on mine from last year, still lots of stones on the road and I have the trans out chasing oil leaks right now so with luck I will be driving it next week.
Interesting to get your impression on the AC as I have not charged mine yet.
David W

[P100DHG]

So just to put all you experienced builders on the spot here. What insulation would you recommend? Would you have used spray foam and shaped it? a Ridgid installation, something more automotive specific? What do you guys think?

[David Williamson]

I can't compare as I only know what I used and each engine/exhaust combination will be different. I used Dynamat on mine.
David W

[edwardb]

So just to put all you experienced builders on the spot here. What insulation would you recommend? Would you have used spray foam and shaped it? a Ridgid installation, something more automotive specific? What do you guys think?

Are you asking just about the area along the pipes that I've mentioned? Or overall insulation in general? I described my overall insulation during the build thread. Mostly the two layers of Lizard Skin (heat + sound) everywhere in the interior, including the hatch area, except the footboxes. There I pre-covered with Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Rubber Sound Deadener and Dynamat 11101 Dynaliner Insulation for heat. Air infiltration is completely shut off with various caulks and seam sealers. Even sprayed some Lizard Skin in the headliner area before applying UPOL Rapter on the entire body and nose underside. All that plus carpet, full door cards, side windows, quarter window fillers, and full gaskets around doors and windows. Not sure what else could be done.

If I were doing it again, I would add layers of insulation in the areas previously indicated in post #968. Between the outside of the chassis and the body to help dampen sound and vibration from the side pipes. Not sure what exact product. Would have to research more. Maybe something like this: http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-an...ion/hoodliner/.

[P100DHG]

Are you asking just about the area along the pipes that I've mentioned? Or overall insulation in general? I described my overall insulation during the build thread. Mostly the two layers of Lizard Skin (heat + sound) everywhere in the interior, including the hatch area, except the footboxes. There I pre-covered with Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Rubber Sound Deadener and Dynamat 11101 Dynaliner Insulation for heat. Air infiltration is completely shut off with various caulks and seam sealers. Even sprayed some Lizard Skin in the headliner area before applying UPOL Rapter on the entire body and nose underside. All that plus carpet, full door cards, side windows, quarter window fillers, and full gaskets around doors and windows. Not sure what else could be done.

If I were doing it again, I would add layers of insulation in the areas indicated in post #111 between the outside of the chassis and the body to dampen sound and vibration from the side pipes. Not sure what exact product. Would have to research more. Maybe something like this: http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-an...ion/hoodliner/.

I was referencing the hollow area near the side pipes. I guess my question is, what insulation would you guys recommend in that area? I used lizard skin and added two brackets to make that panel more ridged. But it’s a huge void. I thought about a foam insulation and shaping it but foresee potential issues with water retention if it finds its way in there.

Thanks,
Danny

[edwardb]

I was referencing the hollow area near the side pipes. I guess my question is, what insulation would you guys recommend in that area? I used lizard skin and added two brackets to make that panel more ridged. But it’s a huge void. I thought about a foam insulation and shaping it but foresee potential issues with water retention if it finds its way in there.

Thanks,
Danny

I don't have anything to add over what I previously posted. I would take a hard look at that Dynamat material. Based on the description, seems like it would be perfect for that area. Maybe even multiple layers. I suspect there are other similar products out there. But I would use something expressly designed to absorb vibration and sound. Once the body is on (like mine... ) much more difficult to add or change. I don't purposely drive in the rain, although have been caught multiple times of course. I don't think that area would see a lot of moisture. Plus it's not tightly sealed, so should drain/dry if it did.

Full disclaimer -- I have no proof adding insulation in this area will make any difference. Seems like a good possibility, but nothing more. Plus every build is going to have differences, e.g. engine, exhaust, how the rest is insulated and sealed, etc.

[Erik W. Treves]

I actually got a long tube and did my best and filled that area below the door sill with the loose spray foam...I definitely helped... I also spray foamed inside the hinge area between the footbox and the body.... much like in the roadster. If i had it to over again I would put some 1 inch hard foam insulation between the tubes as well....anyway.. my .02

I would also note that Russ Thompson I believe documented that a lot of additional noise comes from the Diff area which is somewhat muffled in a roadster since it's in the trunk area separated from the cockpit...

To Paul's point - every engine and muffler combination is different and will have different characteristics... I have actual headliner fabric throughout the top of the body...I think this helps a lot in my case.

[Bob Brandle]

Everyone,
I've done some insulation customizations on my Gen 3 Coupe in that area. Doug Dahlgren, Gen 3 Coupe 065, actually did part of this first and inspired me. What we did was to actually fabricate added aluminum sheet metal panels to box in that structure below the door on both sides of the car. This panel attaches to the outside of this structure. Doug's need was to close off that area from accumulating pebbles and debris from the rough driveway and roads he drives in Nebraska. He added block foam to fill the void. I also had the idea to add sound insulation to the inside because it was directly inboard of the sidepipes. My idea was to add a layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro sheet to the inside of this new panels, as well as the "outside" surface of the cabin's sheet metal in that area. Thus two layers facing each other. I'll also have Second Skin on the inside of the cabin sheet metal. I did not add any foam to the fill up the void and since the panels are permanently installed, I'll leave it unfilled for now. But, later on, even with a finished car, I could squirt in foam like Erik has done. My Coupe isn't done yet, so I have no operational results to report. Here's what this all looked like.

Bob

[Straversi]

Wind noise can be your friend. When I drive my old Cadillac with the top down it’s a smooth and enjoyable ride. When the top and windows are up it sounds like a Panzer. I hear every rattle and squeak that a 56 year old car can make. Interesting comments about noise from the differential and other sources and some great ides on how to reduce them. It does highlight why there are hundreds of pounds of noise suppressing material in a daily driver. I know Paul and Eric knew what they were getting into but it’s a good reminder to those considering one of these for a first build. Managed expectations go a long way towards enjoying a home built car. Just because it has a roof and has A/C doesn’t mean it’s a daily.
Great write up Paul.
-Steve

[Mike Garrett]

Thanks edwardb for that info, I needed it!

[edwardb]

The very last of my open items are now complete. Absolutely nothing left on the list. So this is my final "final update." We'll see about that. Said it before...

The headlight covers I received with my kit were not good quality. They were the last items on the POL and received many months after my kit was delivered. I think I mentioned before -- but I never removed the protective film until final assembly and after I had fit them to the headlight openings. I was surprised and disappointed in the clarity and pockmarks. Contacted FFR and they agreed to replace them but didn't have any. They were trying to find a different supplier. Found out right before they shut down they had a new supplier, looked good, and once they had stock they would send me replacements. But then of course they closed. Contacted them again last week and I finally received them. Unlike the first ones, these only took very minor trimming to fit, and are crystal clear with no distortion or imperfections. What a nice improvement! Last item #1 completed.

I was in the process of completing my Gen 3 Coyote tune with Lund Racing when the stay-at-home order came down for Michigan. I completed a couple of quick data logging runs. But heard about some expensive tickets being passed out. Not the time to be jetting around in a bright red sports car. So we put the process on hold, even though it seemed to be very close and running great. A few days ago our stay-at-home was lifted. So back at it. I ran another complete set of logs including the infamous WOT (wide open throttle) run. I have a certain place I go (still not telling...) where that can be be done relatively safely and hopefully not attract any undo attention. Because of the distance away, didn't go there during the first round of logging that got stopped. But did go there today and completed two short logging runs with the throttle against the stop. In second, otherwise the speed gets totally out of control. Needless to say the Coyote loves to rev and man do things start happening fast. But got my data and sent everything to Lund. Couple of back and forths, plus I asked them to dial in a bit quicker throttle response. The throttle felt a little softer than the Gen 2 Roadster. That was completed and I love how it feels. All good. Lund is happy with the data in my logs, and I'm happy with how it runs and feels. Last item #2 completed.

Now nothing to do but just drive. Approaching 200 miles and I can tell we're really going to like this car. It's growing on me big time. Really missing seeing our friends and various events and cruise-ins that are the summer staple around here. Nothing is happening yet and expect it will be a slow and gradual build up. Even the famous Woodward Dream Cruise in August has been cancelled, which is really a shame. Really hope the September Open House at Factory Five can happen. We're planning to attend so hopefully can catch up with some of you there. I'm out.

[Paul2STL]

Yeah the WOT pulls where a little scary, when I read what Lund wanted I was like man top speed is going to be pretty high by 7200 rpms in third. So what do you think about the T56 compared to the TKO behind the coyote? I have the T56 behind my gen 2 in a my roadster. I know people say 6th is not needed in the roadster, but it is nice to throw it in 6th on the highway and hear my stereo pretty good. It was a little challenge and more expense for the T56. Just wanted to know from someone who has both to make me feel better about my decision. LOL

[edwardb]

Yeah the WOT pulls where a little scary, when I read what Lund wanted I was like man top speed is going to be pretty high by 7200 rpms in third. So what do you think about the T56 compared to the TKO behind the coyote? I have the T56 behind my gen 2 in a my roadster. I know people say 6th is not needed in the roadster, but it is nice to throw it in 6th on the highway and hear my stereo pretty good. It was a little challenge and more expense for the T56. Just wanted to know from someone who has both to make me feel better about my decision. LOL

Really? You did your WOT runs in 3rd? My runs in 2nd were almost to 90 mph. Pushing it big time on a 55 mph speed limit highway. Wouldn't even think of doing it in 3rd. Anyway, I like the T56 a lot. Three things I guess. The shifts are really crisp and easy. Although my TKO's have been the Liberty modded ones. So they shift nice as well. I haven't had a stock TKO so can't compare that directly. I really like the reverse lock out. Completely eliminates the possibility to hit the reverse gate and the awful sound it makes. Not that I've ever done that. Probably the thing I like the most though is having two overdrive gears. I've had the .82 OD TKO, which I really liked because 5th became a nice gear for higher speed town driving. But really kept the revs too high when cruising on the highway. I've also had the .64 OD TKO (what's in my 20th Anniversary Roadster) and it's great for highway cruising. But really not what you want for higher speed town driving. With the T56 you have both. .8 and .63. So the best of both worlds. I haven't done any extensive highway driving yet, so haven't used 6th much other than to try it out. But I've used 5th quite a lot and it's nice for the 50-55 mph country roads that are all around me. I'm happy with it. For the Coupe especially it's kind of a no-brainer if you want it. No mods are required and it fits with room to spare. Hope that helps you feel better.

[P100DHG]

Are you happy with the 3.73 gearing on the rear end? Too much off the line torque and higher RPMs while cruising or are you feeling like it’s just right?

[edwardb]

Are you happy with the 3.73 gearing on the rear end? Too much off the line torque and higher RPMs while cruising or are you feeling like it’s just right?

The gearing is fine. It's exactly what I expected. The combination of the T56 and the 3.73 is almost exactly the same across the board as my Roadster with the TKO and 3.55. Which I find to be just right. With the addition of the second overdrive in the T56. Always have to look at diff ratios taking everything into account. Engine, trans, tire sizes, and intended use/expectations.

I haven't pushed the Coupe very hard yet, and it's not actually my style to do that. But I am finding it a bit less squirrelly under hard acceleration than the Roadster. Don't know if it's the slightly longer wheelbase, the Torsen diff, or maybe I'm still being too timid. But it's been rock solid.

[Fbird]

Thank you for this great resource and inspiring documentation.

[Dlirium]

I fabricated the added front lower splash guards I mentioned in my last update out of the usual .040" 6061 aluminum. In hindsight, maybe could have done things differently earlier in the build. But this is where I’m at now. If built like the instructions, which mine is, the front of the pontoons are directly behind the front wheels and will get hammered. As some have suggested, putting the kit lower aluminum pieces in front of the pontoons would help. But I found when fitting the body that getting the pontoons into the right locations and locked there was critical to the body fitting. Specifically the alignment of the hood to the pontoons. So I attached them to the back. That leaves the pontoons exposed, along with the rest of the aluminum pieces above them. Now I want to add the same UPOL Raptor undercoat I've used everywhere else. But I really don’t want to mask as much as would be needed, plus I don’t want to spray what’s already been painted. So made these two pieces that will fit over what’s there. Before final attachment, I’ll spray with the Raptor, leaving the paint covered but untouched. They’ll still be removable should I need to renew the undercoat at some point. The upper splash guard, attached to the hood, interlocks into this area forming the complete splash guard. I'll be adding UPOL Raptor on those pieces as well before I finally attach them.

Paul - I noticed that you did NOT go with the updated panel that you (I think) received from FFR. I assume you addressed this, but I can't seem to find it. Did you just feel it wasn't worth the updated, or you already had the panels coated and installed?

Thanks!
brent

[edwardb]

Paul - I noticed that you did NOT go with the updated panel that you (I think) received from FFR. I assume you addressed this, but I can't seem to find it. Did you just feel it wasn't worth the updated, or you already had the panels coated and installed?

Thanks!
brent

I did receive updated panels several months into my build and used all of them. Unless there’s something newer, I have the latest ones installed. In the area specifically in the pictures, the previous panels went across and above the headers. The newer ones leave that area open. Hopefully that answers your questions.

400 miles on the Coupe now BTW. Liking it more all the time. Have been to two cruise-ins and people really like it. But I’m amazed and a bit surprised I guess how few people know what it is.

[Dlirium]

OHHHH!!! So, I have #77 that CAME with the update! I thought the old piece WAS the new piece! LOL, sorry to bother and thanks as always!

[JohnK]

Hi Paul. I'm curious to get your thoughts on whether the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wipers would be a good upgrade on a roadster build? They seem to have worked out well for you on the coupe. I'm not installing a heater on my roadster, so that area of the firewall is pretty open. Would they work as intended (2 speeds + auto park) with a Lucas 35927 toggle switch?

Edited to add: I have the FFR wiper kit. Any idea if the FFR-provided arms will work with the WWK-2?

Thanks,
John

My build plan includes wipers and I’m going to do washers as well. Both are required by the Michigan safety inspection. I’ve gotten away without washers on the Roadster builds thanks to sympathetic LEO’s. But not going to try again, plus maybe with this build the wipers and washers might actually be usable and necessary. But I don’t want to work through the Lucas drama for wipers again, so looked for an alternative. Found reference to a company Specialty Power Windows located in Georgia on several other forums. Seemed all good. They sell various performance car power windows and wiper setups, including a universal wiper system WWK-2. Pretty old school. You actually have to call them to order. What??? Found that Speedway sells their products, was in stock, and with a few clicks here two days later. Looked it over today, put together enough to see how it works, and have a basic plan for installing. The overall design is similar to the Lucas variety with a moving cable going through wheelboxes. But it’s quite heavy duty and seems rock solid. Configuration, direction, and amount of sweep are all adjustable. Also in my digging around, found reference to a wiper/washer switch that does everything the usual DD does. Push for washer and several wipes, variable intermittent, high, low, and park. Cool! The one I bought is a Cole Hersee 75600-04. They sell a bunch of variations. After studying the switch schematic and the wiper setup, determined this was the right one. Clipped everything together temporarily, and it all works as it’s supposed to. The wiper kit doesn’t come with arms or blades. Need to figure that out. But even once those are added, what I’m going to install will still be cheaper than the usual Lucas knock-off and I think (hope) quite a bit better.

Had to chuckle a little bit. The literature says these wipers were the Best New Product of the Year at the 1991 NSRA nationals. My first reaction was these are maybe kind of an old design. Then on second thought realized that's 30 years or so newer than the Lucas style wipers. OK, that's progress. Here are some pics.

Inside of main mechanism. Orientation of the drive wheel determines direction. Different holes to adjust the amount of sweep. The wheel boxes come with a long driveshaft that can be shortened, which I probably will need to do. Everything gets packed with grease when assembled for good.



Motor and the Cole Hersee switch. I’ll be changing out the knob to match the others on the dash. Drive cable is in the background.



Expect to mount somewhere in this vicinity. Plenty of room and should link up OK with the wheelboxes.



I mentioned before about picking up the Breeze locking gas cap and installing into the LeMans cap. Got that done the other night. I’ve shown this including a full description in my other build threads, so won't repeat the details. Cut off the LeMans connection, hog out the flange for the regular cap, and bolt in. Not cheap, but an ideal setup IMO.





Spent more time on the interior layout. Feel like I’m about there. There are some amazing interiors out there. I’m trying to stay within the basic boundaries of the stock layout though. I’m thinking of putting together a small center switch panel. The ends will be boxed in and have the aux outlets. Only switches on the dash itself will be the ignition, headlights and horn button over by the gauges. Probably going to go keyless push button start. Turn signals will be the Russ Thompson unit with headlight low/high/flash to pass on the stalk button. Four A/C-Heat outlets on the face of the dash, and I’d really like to install a glovebox. Probably can’t be real deep because of all the hoses behind the dash, but I’m going to try. I’ll have to do some fabrication on the DS to move things over a bit to fit the outlet on that side. Brow piece is still optional at this point. I’m planning to have the panel with the gauges removable which opens the dash area for access and servicing. Thinking of finishes of vinyl, C-F and some red stitching. Along the lines of how the seats are finished. Something similar for door cards as well. Again, very preliminary but it’s a start. What do you think? At this point changes are as easy as cutting more kraft paper and printing switch images.





My first batch of powder coat pieces are promised for early next week. Also found out today Factory Five is sending out an update package for all Gen 3 Coupe buyers. There have been some sheet metal changes and maybe more. I’m really not sure. Some have gone out already. Mine is due in the next week or two. Good customer service Factory Five.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul. I'm curious to get your thoughts on whether the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wipers would be a good upgrade on a roadster build? They seem to have worked out well for you on the coupe. I'm not installing a heater on my roadster, so that area of the firewall is pretty open. Would they work as intended (2 speeds + auto park) with a Lucas 35927 toggle switch?

Edited to add: I have the FFR wiper kit. Any idea if the FFR-provided arms will work with the WWK-2?

Thanks,
John

Several have asked me about that. While I haven't personally tried it, the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 setup is only marginally larger than the Lucas knock-off stuff FFR uses (and I've installed several times) so I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in a Roadster, Hot Rod, etc. The sweep is fully adjustable so that would be fine too. I'm reluctant to weigh in on the other two questions because I just don't know. I used the Cole Hersee 75600-04 switch for mine (2-speed + intermittent, integrated washer function) and it works perfectly including parking. The WWK-2 setup does come with a switch (pictured) but it's obviously rotary not a toggle like the Lucas switch. My wild guess is the Lucas switch would not work because my impression is the parking mechanism they're using is unique. But that's just a guess. Same for the wiper arms. Just don't know and didn't try. the WWK-2 setup is somewhat standard setup and I used Anco arms from Summit. Those might be a little long for the Roadster, but there should be other choices. Worst case buy the WWK setup and see if the arms you have fit. Sorry I can't help more.

[edwardb]

I posted this in a standalone thread. But thought it made sense to add to the build thread as well. Crazy coincidence -- I see this is post #1000 in the build thread. Should have played the lottery.

It’s been a down year for driving like everyone knows. But after being parked for most of three months, I’ve gotten to drive the Coupe more and reached the 1,000 mile mark. So here’s a report.

Overall impression remains very positive. While it’s similar to our Roadster (same suspension, brakes, shocks, power steering, etc.) the longer wheelbase and even stiffer frame improves the ride a bit I think. It just feels and drives like a much bigger car. Love the T-56. Crisp shifts and really like having two overdrive ratios. I haven’t pushed it too hard, but I’m liking the Torsen diff. I don’t feel the back end wiggling around nearly as much when the tires spin. You can hear it a bit, but no big deal. The Gen 3 Coyote is running fine. Zero codes since the tune was completed by Lund Racing. Starts and just goes. Hasn’t used any oil. There was about a tablespoon in the JLT oil separator. So far so good with the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. Effort is light and smooth. Since it’s self-adjusting, clutch pedal release point hasn’t moved. Have my entry and exit techniques pretty well practiced so don’t pay much attention to that any more. The quick release steering wheel should be mandatory on these builds. Helps immensely. Especially for getting out. Like the Corbeau seats. Really like the Schroth Racing Profi II ASM harnesses. My wife especially likes the cam locks on the harnesses over the Simpson latches.

No rattles or shakes anywhere. No discernible air leaks into the cockpit or heat through the footboxes or whatever. My work to seal things up and insulate seemed to have paid off. Have gone over it a couple times and nothing has come loose. No leaks or puddles other than the A/C drain. Which means it’s doing its thing. Speaking of the A/C, satisfied with how it works. It’s been a warm summer by Michigan standards, and it keeps the cockpit comfortable. At some point I may get the hatch glass tinted. But so far hasn’t seemed necessary. For warmer climates that’s probably a higher priority. The design of the fuel filler hose has a right angle not far inside the opening. Have to be careful to not pump gas too fast or it splashes back a bit. Also doesn’t play nice with the new vapor recovery nozzles our local Costco (my usual go-to gas station) installed since you can’t push the nozzle in very far. Last time I was there they recommended I use a specific pump without it intended for “older” vehicles.

Most importantly, my wife really enjoys the Coupe and appreciates being out of the wind and traffic noise. Likes the seats better. Likes the ride better. With both the Roadster and Coupe in the garage this summer, we found ourselves gravitating to the Coupe most of the time. Partly because it’s new I know. But we are just liking it a lot. We’re not ready to drive it cross country yet. But it’s more comfortable especially for longer cruises.

Have been to probably a dozen or so cars and coffees. Plus one judged car show. It attracts a ton of attention. People love it, although I’m really shocked how many don’t know what it is. I’ve been telling the Coupe story a lot. Factory Five is widely recognized and usually with very positive comments or impressions.

Couple of specific follow-up points. Much discussion earlier in the build thread about the location that I chose for the Moroso coolant expansion tank. Due to space, how I chose to lay things out, plus the Gen 3 Coupe chassis, it’s mounted lower than in a Mustang or typically when installed in a Roadster. In the range of 1-2 inches lower. Short story. It works fine. Engine cooling is controlled and relatively cool as is usually the case with the Coyote. Most of the time it’s 190-195 F. Every once in a while when it’s warm and stop and go, goes over 200 slightly but drops right back down when moving. All good. Only slight downside is initial fill (and future flush-refills) have to be through the heater hose connection. But that’s really minor. Coolant level checks and routine maintenance adds are through the cap as normal.

Another discussion in the build thread was about the Factory Five A/C and heat system. The combination A/C evaporator/heater core is at the top of the passenger side footbox and draws in cabin air only. Basically, it’s on recirculation mode all the time. Some were concerned I’d have window fogging among other things. Hasn’t been the case. Works fine. While my car is relatively sealed up (best I could…) it’s still not DD airtight. So I think there’s enough outside air that it’s just not a problem.

Really the only negative is one I’ve talked about several times. It’s louder than I expected. We wear our ear plugs and it’s not an issue. Go into one of these expecting that and you won’t be surprised. There are pipes that are probably quieter than mine. But love my dual-pipe Gas-N’s and don’t regret going that direction at all. I’ve also talked several times about adding major insulation between the chassis and the body where the side pipes are. Still might try something. But not easy with the body on and it’s not coming off. For new builds, really recommend doing something there. Has to help. On the trivial side, the built-in LED indicators (turn signals, high beam) in the Speedhut speedo while nice aren’t very bright. Kinda wimpy when you get right down to it. With the top and always being in the shade, they’re marginally acceptable. For an open top car, e.g. a Roadster, I’d still add separate LED’s on the dash. Also, I’m still getting used to just reading the gauges in general. They’re not quite as easy to read or placed as well as the Roadster competition layout I used.

Changes/fixes: We really missed having a clock. I know everyone complains about the Speedhut clock used in the Roadster. But we’ve never had any trouble with them and miss having one. I know you can use your phone or wrist watch. But I like being able to scan the clock along with the other gauges. After doing some on-line shopping, bought a stick-on clock that’s marketed to the motorcycle crowd. Harley’s, etc. It’s basically a quartz analog watch movement (Seiko) pressed into a black billet aluminum mount. It’s stuck on the dash with double sided 3M foam tape. Looks like it belongs and I’m happy with it. And it doesn’t light. So almost like the Speedhut version.

Another thing, and this also is pretty trivial, I wired an LED indicator light next to the water temp gauge that goes on when the cooling fan is commanded. In this case, can be commanded by either the Coyote PCM or the A/C trinary switch. What I’ve found is the fan free wheels and reverse feeds the LED. I believe it’s worse with the Coupe and the cooling tunnel that forces air through the radiator maybe even more aggressively. Only glows dimly, but still plainly lights pretty much whenever the car is moving. I’d prefer it only lights when the fan is actually commanded. I’m going to install a diode in the line at the fan to prevent the backfeeding. In hindsight, I could have tapped the LED in a different location. Or added another relay. Or left it out altogether. But with the wiring done and most of it buried, going to keep it simple. I’ve got a 40 amp power rectifier diode on the way and will thoroughly test it before committing to the installation.

Finally, I mentioned in one of my early driving impressions that maybe I needed to check the alignment because I didn’t feel like it centered quite as well as I liked. Or the Roadster for that matter. Upon further review, determined the steering was sticking just slightly. Pulled the wheel and re-did the alignment through the plastic bushing that Russ has in his turn signal assembly. Plus added a coat of silicone lubricant. Problem solved. It was subtle but now all good.

Here are a few pictures. This is the clock I described. Small, but I like it.



Odometer proof. Was in traffic when it actually turned 1,000. Close enough. The red LED is the Coyote MIL. Glows just a bit all the time. Gen 2 in the Roadster does the same thing. Talked about a bit in the forums. Doesn't look quite this bright in real life. Obviously very bright when it's actually indicating. I consider it my "Coyote is alive" light.



Today was the famous Detroit Woodward Dream Cruise. Or should I say the cancelled Dream Cruise? There were no sponsored or civic events. But didn’t prevent lots of us from cruising up and down Woodward. Plus, still quite a few spectators. I met up with my buddies Greg (Challenge Roadster) and Tim (33 Hot Rod) and we cruised together for a couple hours. That’s us in the background. Greg in the center. Tim on the right. Good times. Hopefully next year will be more back to normal.



That’s it for now. Several events coming up in September. But the season (what there was of it) is winding down quickly. With the Roadster now sold they’ll all be attended with the Coupe.