Back on Saturday, March 23rd my son, a very good friend of ours, and I picked up the in-process red car kit from Bob_n_Cincy & his son Michael. They live outside Cincinnati, OH. We live outside of Albuquerque, NM — 2,800 miles in 3 days. We were beat when we got home, but had an unloading crew ready to assist.
While in Cincy, Bob and Mike gave us a tour of the blue ICE 818s and took us for some spins around the neighborhood. This was the first completed 818 we’d seen in person and our first ride in one. We exited the blue car with some very big grins! Bob & Mike were gracious with their time, but we needed to get on the road quickly to make the return trip.
The kit is chassis #21 with several of Bob’s modifications. Highlights in the kit as purchased include the front gas tank with necessary frame mods and most of the parts from an ’05 FXT Bob & Mike had prepared for use.
After our departure from Bob’s we passed the St. Louis arch & settled in for a long day of driving. That night while pulling into a rest stop in Oklahoma, we saw the Factory Five semi truck pulling out! It was headed to our place to drop off the hardtop we’d ordered from FFR directly. We met up with the truck the next day.
My son, Isaac, is 15 and will be getting his provisional license tomorrow. New Mexico is the wild, wild west and people around here drive like that's still the case! I can't believe my kid is driving. <sigh>
Our build goals are pretty simple:
Learn new skills - welding, assembly, fab, paint, wiring, all sorts of other things
Spend time together with my kids - show them that the complex things around them are really just combinations of simple things
Solve problems together
Have the satisfaction of doing a good job
Build a working car
Have fun with the research, decisions, build, and driving
Stretch goal - build a car that I will want to drive regularly
General overview of build:
Looking to make a street driver, with occasional autocross days - mostly to gain skill in driving it safely
Power steering
ABS
AC + heat
WRX front brakes
FXT front calipers installed in rear
Front mount tank
Shooting for a two-year long build, but that's very open-ended. I'm not a huge planner, but I do work at problems persistently. So we'll see how it plays out.
Bob supplied most of the donor parts from an 05 FXT. Conspicuously absent was an engine & transmission!
So we purchased a rolled 06 WRX wagon at auction. It was a bit sad disassembling this car because it was clearly loved by its owner before the wreck. It had 96k on it and was almost completely stock. We moved fast and may have misplaced a few bolts. Fortunately, we've got all of the parts provided by Bob to refer to!
This was the first time I'd pulled an engine. A little sawzall action on the front frame members and everything came out smoothly. Getting the engine out was far easier than pulling out the heater core.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
The only project better than building a Factory Five car is building it as a parent/child project. I'm envious.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
YES! And by now you know a lot what I mean by that.
Can you elaborate more on the engine/drivetrain you plan on dropping in? We didn't talk much about your build, on Friday!
Also once you get pix of that Bob's fuel tank, I'm curious to see how it looks and the details around the fuel pump hole and level sender hole.
Details is what will make the car a DD and reliable. Fitting stuff in is easy. Making everything work flawlessly is another story, those little details to finish up the fitment is what will make the biggest difference on a DD. But you already have that in mind after discussing with you, which is a great start, you shouldn't have much things to come back to and re-do cuz you forgot little details for reliability.
I'm also very interested about your FXT front calipers installed in rear, those are Forester XT fronts you will install in rear? Do you know if there's a thread on that somewhere? I'd like to change my current setup but I'd like something that would fit using the existing brackets without too much modifications, if that exists...
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
Can you elaborate more on the engine/drivetrain you plan on dropping in? We didn't talk much about your build, on Friday!
I'll be using the 2.5L EJ255 from an 06 WRX donor. It has ~96k miles on it.
Originally Posted by Frank818
Also once you get pix of that Bob's fuel tank, I'm curious to see how it looks and the details around the fuel pump hole and level sender hole
Will do.
Originally Posted by Frank818
I'm also very interested about your FXT front calipers installed in rear, those are Forester XT fronts you will install in rear? Do you know if there's a thread on that somewhere? I'd like to change my current setup but I'd like something that would fit using the existing brackets without too much modifications, if that exists...
I'll be writing up what we did eventually. Admittedly, I haven't gotten the rotors figured out yet so it might be a while. You can also check Bob's thread for some details.
Performed a very quick & crude first go at assembling the front & rear suspension mostly to confirm we've got all the right parts & fasteners.
Learned a few things:
1) The rear trailing arms need to be flipped.
2) We need to figure a way to properly mount the steering rack. The spacers on hand don't fit properly and, more importantly, the cradle interferes with one of the power steering fluid ports. Mechie's cradle seems like a good solution, but I'm not 100% certain it will be a proper fit.
3) I do have a steering rack spacer to extend the rack on the passenger side. I'm assuming I'll also need a longer boot on that side. Can anyone confirm?
4) I'm really not happy with the way the front LCAs fit. We had to fight very hard to get them installed in the outer holes. Even then, they are not square to the brackets. Here's an example of the misalignment. Note the angle between the rear edge of the "hurricane" bracket and the mount point on the frame. Input would be most welcome.
Last edited by fletch; 10-21-2019 at 11:08 PM.
Reason: Fixed broken links - frustrated with image gallery interface...
Our pedal box is from an 06 WRX so it's got the frustrating drive by wire setup. I really like the look of the pedal and prefer the DBW setup for simplicity so I figured we'd try to make it work. Here's how we did it.
First, we figured out where the pedal should go using a piece of plywood.
Used some 1/4" flat stock to make it official. (Those are my welds. Isaac's are typically a little nicer.)
Taped some rare earth magnets to the back of the pedal for ease of determining location during mock up.
Once we figured out the location of the pedal on the bracket, we drilled the holes. Here's the hardware we used.
Here's the nearly finished product:
We used some drawer liner foam strips inside the pipe brackets to take up the space. Only thing left is to buy some rivnuts to secure the bottom of the bracket to the vertical firewall brace.
Last edited by fletch; 10-21-2019 at 11:11 PM.
Reason: Fixed broken links - frustrated with image gallery interface...
Performed a very quick & crude first go at assembling the front & rear suspension mostly to confirm we've got all the right parts & fasteners.
Learned a few things:
1) The rear trailing arms need to be flipped.
2) We need to figure a way to properly mount the steering rack. The spacers on hand don't fit properly and, more importantly, the cradle interferes with one of the power steering fluid ports. Mechie's cradle seems like a good solution, but I'm not 100% certain it will be a proper fit.
3) I do have a steering rack spacer to extend the rack on the passenger side. I'm assuming I'll also need a longer boot on that side. Can anyone confirm?
4) I'm really not happy with the way the front LCAs fit. We had to fight very hard to get them installed in the outer holes. Even then, they are not square to the brackets. Here's an example of the misalignment. Note the angle between the rear edge of the "hurricane" bracket and the mount point on the frame. Input would be most welcome.
Your front strut adapter are on backwards.
You don't need a longer boot for the steering rack extender.
The LCA fitment has never been good. here is the original picture: lca.jpg
Bob,
Thanks for the info on the steering rack. It was apparent to me that you had trouble with the LCAs given the oval mounting holes. We'll just do our best to get all the bolts to seat securely and move on.
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Your front strut adapter are on backwards.
Can you tell me more about this? I'm thinking you mean the lower attachment points for the struts should be rotated 180. (But secretly hoping that's not the case since we welded them... Maybe this is the excuse I was looking for to buy the aluminum LCAs. )
I would also look again at the place I have the red arrow pointing. I think the grease fittings are supposed to be facing up. You may have those on upside down. But to get them right I think you need to disassemble the upper a-arm pieces.
I'm embarrassed. Looking back at my own photos, it's apparent those are incorrect. Thanks for pointing out that (no so) obvious goof!
Looks like I'll need to find a different reason to buy the aluminum LCAs!
I'm embarrassed. Looking back at my own photos, it's apparent those are incorrect. Thanks for pointing out that (no so) obvious goof!
Looks like I'll need to find a different reason to buy the aluminum LCAs!
Don't feel bad, I think 1/2 of the builders put the hurricane mounts in up-side-down the first time.
You would of figure it out when the tires rubbed. Just to let you know, everybody's tires rubbed somewhere.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-22-2019 at 07:07 PM.
LOOLLL!!! So true.
Now Brian you probably think "then how come mines didn't rub?" Well I implemented various solutions all in one to prevent that from happening. But they did rub until I implemented all those small solutions. YMMV depending on a lot of things, for some people some solutions don't work well, others they work perfect.
If you ever want to know what I did specifically on mine, lemme know. And BTW, this area is a very rare one where all my custom solutions from the VR6 implementation have not dictated any of my solutions, so they may well be 100% applicable to you as well.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017 Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h Build Completed Winter 2021
My front wheels rubbed the frame just a bit until I got the castor set, then plenty of room showed up there. Now it's true my suspension is a one-off since I went with 2009 Legacy parts, but my lower arms are setup to mimic the FFR designed geometry AND from other builder threads you'll still find that your castor needs to be about right before you decide whether you have a clearance problem or not.
Have we got the hurricane mounts correct? Flat side up?
Yes, flat side up is correct.
Doing so moves the pivot point toward the side of the car. This move the ball joint forward. This give you more clearance between tire and firewall.
Bob lca.jpg
This update has been a long time in coming. As I look at the status of things, I actually feel a bit discouraged even though I know there's a lot of work represented. First, some pics.
The car as it stands today. All four corners are in. Fronts are fully torqued, rears partially until engine is dropped in. Gas tank is in (and not coming out!). Seats are ready to go in, but are out for now. Rear firewall and rear-rear firewall are prepped.
Here's the engine/trans combo. Doesn't look like much, but... timing belt & water pump replaced, new plugs, clocked turbo, evap|PCV|EGR deleted, harness dieted, and probably a couple other things I don't remember. I could use some insight here. I'm just about ready to torque the intake manifold back on, but I'm afraid we're forgetting something. We're keeping AC & power steering. Is there anything else we really ought to do before we torque the manifold?
And here's a quick shot of the front right corner showing the brakes, control arm & some of the inner fender.
Once we get the intake manifold torqued, our next move is to put the engine in place. Then start plumbing everything...
Huh? "a bit discouraged", you say? It looks like you've completed a lot of projects so far. Remember that it's hundreds of small projects and not one big project. Remember the elephant eating adage. All that you've completed looks good to me.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Here's the engine/trans combo. Doesn't look like much, but... timing belt & water pump replaced, new plugs, clocked turbo, evap|PCV|EGR deleted, harness dieted, and probably a couple other things I don't remember. I could use some insight here. I'm just about ready to torque the intake manifold back on, but I'm afraid we're forgetting something. We're keeping AC & power steering. Is there anything else we really ought to do before we torque the manifold?
Looking good Brian, Great job.
Are you going to do a TGV delete before putting on the intake manifold?
Nice looking engine. I have never seen an unrusted exhaust heat shield.
Bob
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-28-2020 at 12:56 AM.
Looks really, really nice. Make a list and cross something off - sometimes that helps me when it just seems there's no light in the tunnel... Keep it fun.
Thanks, everyone, for the encouragement. You know how it is -- set some goals and struggle to keep them. Plus, it's been a year since we picked up the kit. Just hoping we'd be further along. That's all. Hopefully, we'll get the engine in this weekend.
Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy
Looking good Brian, Great job.
Are you going to do a TGV delete before putting on the intake manifold?
Nice looking engine. I have never seen an unrusted exhaust heat shield.
Bob
Hey Bob. Yes, one of the things I forgot to mention was the TGV delete. And yes, I'm happy with the condition of the engine. Shows what it's like here in the southwest.
Need some help. With the engine in, lots of things sit below the frame and interfere with the lovely belly pan we made months ago. Both ends of the exhaust manifold, the oil pan, even the oil filter. We could make some spacers for the engine mounts to lift the engine by about 1/2-3/4" but even then we'll still have some interference. Without spending much $$$ (new oil pan, etc.), what's the conventional wisdom on how to make things better? Thanks!
Need some help. With the engine in, lots of things sit below the frame and interfere with the lovely belly pan we made months ago. Both ends of the exhaust manifold, the oil pan, even the oil filter. We could make some spacers for the engine mounts to lift the engine by about 1/2-3/4" but even then we'll still have some interference. Without spending much $$$ (new oil pan, etc.), what's the conventional wisdom on how to make things better? Thanks!
Here is a picture of my belly pan, Only the oil pan needed a hole cut. Some other components may be touched by the pan. belly pan.jpg
The wrx pan if I remember correctly is about an inch deeper than the forester pan.
Top Left: Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan
Top Right: OEM 2002-2005 EJ20 WRX Oil Pan Subaru number 11109AA053
Bottom Right: OEM 06+ EJ25 Impreza WRX/STi (STi, Legacy GT & Forester XT) Subaru number 11109AA151
Bottom Left: OEM 04-05 EJ25 Impreza STi (Legacy GT & Forester XT) Subaru number 11109AA131 oilpans.jpg
Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-28-2020 at 11:59 PM.
Here is a picture of my belly pan, Only the oil pan needed a hole cut. Some other components may be touched by the pan. belly pan.jpg
The wrx pan if I remember correctly is about an inch deeper than the forester pan.
Top Left: Killer B Motorsport Oil Pan
Top Right: OEM 2002-2005 EJ20 WRX Oil Pan Subaru number 11109AA053
Bottom Right: OEM 06+ EJ25 Impreza WRX/STi (STi, Legacy GT & Forester XT) Subaru number 11109AA151
Bottom Left: OEM 04-05 EJ25 Impreza STi (Legacy GT & Forester XT) Subaru number 11109AA131 oilpans.jpg
On Friday, we had our first start! Here's a video of our second start, the first with all four cylinders. The first start actually happened when we testing for spark. One plug was out and another coil was disconnected. The engine started on two cylinders!
On Saturday, we got to go-kart stage after addressing a few ride height issues. Here's a video of Isaac and his younger brother touring the neighborhood. His sister is the voice asking for the next ride! It's such a great experience seeing the smile on his face.