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05-14-2020, 10:12 PM
#121
Regarding all the window stuff, you're not alone in your frustrations. However, it should be possible to get the top of the window to sort of seal (I'll admit mine still isn't perfect) and it should also be possible to raise/lower the window with the door closed.
A couple tips I learned:
- For the final adjustments you NEED the outside weather strip piece that goes on the window cutout. The pressure it puts on the window makes a big difference in alignment I think some degree of pressure is good, required even perhaps.
- I used the rollers to push out on the bottom of the window in the up position so that combined with the weather strip just above them it kinda has a "lever" effect of pushing the top of the window into the car when it's rolled up.
- I found that most of the reason I could not get the top rear of the window to fit was that the bottom front was pressed against the weatherstripping too firmly. I had to adjust the whole mechanism and the rollers numerous times to get this fixed.
Another note: My two sides did not really fit the same at all. My driver's side fits slightly better. The passenger side is ok, but it has more drag on the weather stripping when putting the window up with the door closed. This could be chalked up to all kinds of things so I stopped worrying about it...
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05-15-2020, 07:16 AM
#122
While reviewing all of the tips and tricks I had bookmarked, I ran across this one from the GTM guys on making the windows seal properly. A good bit of work, but looks like a great solution:
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/windo...tm-327.415705/
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05-15-2020, 02:07 PM
#123
Originally Posted by
Ajzride
Wow....that is incredible! Looks great.
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06-10-2020, 11:47 AM
#124
Member
That GTM window seal was nicely done but a bit more involved that I am willing to take on at this time. I completed the passenger side power window and this one turned out a bit better than the driver side. The window gasket seal is much tighter at the top of the door unlike the driver side.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NnVmLoJqabKDwJCj7
After a lot of thought and cost analysis, I decided against trying to install AC at this time. The overall cost was going to be over $2k and I just did not feel it was worth it. I may regret this decision later but for now it seemed the most logical. Since I believe a defrost unit is a must for legal reasons, I went with the Vintage Air Gen II Heater and Defrost unit. For the cost, it seems like a very nice unit and I was able to get the plumbing and electrical all installed in a weekend. As mentioned in other threads, using a unit like this require a heater bypass loop to exist so when the valve to the unit is closed, there is still circulation back through the engine. I found a couple of three way connectors that I used to create a bypass loop to accomplish this.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NDQf7HF1YTcFDsjKA
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 4 Likes
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08-03-2020, 05:38 PM
#125
Member
I am going through the process of installing the remaining aluminum pieces but am finding that what I have does not match what is in the manual that I have. In some cases, the part numbers are not even listed in the manual.
Does anyone have any photos of these aluminum pieces installed? My photos are labeled by the letter shown below.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LfW7d7U692o6op4V7
B is #80171 and #80173 front wheel inside rear.
C is #81087 front wheel splash guards.
D is #80174 front wheel inside front
Also, I just found out that I have a couple smaller aluminum pieces (E & F) that should have been installed around the firewall and the fuel tank. Pictures or a diagram of that would be much appreciated as well.
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
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08-03-2020, 06:32 PM
#126
Hey, Learning Curve I just looked over your pics. I noticed that your window slot in the door shell is cut straight. I curved my slot to match the window curvature. Made a cardboard template of the glass at the point just above the door skin. It worked putty good. Made the slot about 1 1/4” wide. Hth.
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08-04-2020, 07:37 AM
#127
Senior Member
A appears to be a coupe specific piece, I've never seen it before.
Here are a few pics of the front splash guards installed. I had to do some trimming, especially towards the front.
20190218_124017.jpg20190218_123959.jpg20190218_123811.jpg
H is supposed to fill in the gap between the door and engine lid. Yours may be a different since you have the coupe. I had to trim this quite a bit, also riveted on a block off plate to fill the hole where the seat belt would've gone (I'm using harnesses). Outside layer is sound insulation mat.
IMAG1841.jpgIMAG1842.jpgIMAG1843.jpg
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08-04-2020, 09:08 AM
#128
Thinker of thoughts
‘A’ is the headliner. It is supposed to be glued up into the roof, but will fall off so don’t use it there. Use it as nice size piece of aluminum for wherever you might need some. I cut it up and used it on the rear of the firewall.
Last edited by FFRWRX; 08-04-2020 at 09:15 AM.
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08-04-2020, 09:17 AM
#129
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
LearningCurve
I am going through the process of installing the remaining aluminum pieces but am finding that what I have does not match what is in the manual that I have. In some cases, the part numbers are not even listed in the manual.
Does anyone have any photos of these aluminum pieces installed? My photos are labeled by the letter shown below.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LfW7d7U692o6op4V7
B is #80171 and #80173 front wheel inside rear.
C is #81087 front wheel splash guards.
D is #80174 front wheel inside front
Also, I just found out that I have a couple smaller aluminum pieces (E & F) that should have been installed around the firewall and the fuel tank. Pictures or a diagram of that would be much appreciated as well.
This is one of my first posts on the forum. I should have started a build thread a while back but kept procrastinating. I am at about the same point as yourself. Hope it helps..
A- head liner aluminum
B1 and 2- front most trim pieces that attach to the left and right radiator support. They will fit terribly. I am actually going to make new ones rather that cut the front of them down enough to clear the nose and fender. The notch cut out that is to fit up to the hood supports is completely off. I feel like this may have been for the retrofit nose.
C1 and 2- per the previous post they are the front inner splash guards from the frame to the outer fender.
D1 and 2- are the inside rear splash guards that mount to the frame from the inside. They fit right where the brake lines come though (will have to notch them).
E and F- after process of elimination with the inventory, I found these are the fuse block mounts. I didn’t use either of them.
H1 and 2- are suppose to close up the gap from the frame to the body near your shoulders while sitting.
I looked through my phone but don’t have any pix of these to post. I will take some later and add them if someone else doesn’t in the meantime.
Also I guess I should really get a build thread started as I’m a almost a year to the day of taking delivery of 818c #575
Brian
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08-04-2020, 02:25 PM
#130
Member
Originally Posted by
lance corsi
Hey, Learning Curve I just looked over your pics. I noticed that your window slot in the door shell is cut straight. I curved my slot to match the window curvature. Made a cardboard template of the glass at the point just above the door skin. It worked putty good. Made the slot about 1 1/4” wide. Hth.
@lance corsi - That's not a bad idea. How well did the window liner fit with with curved door shell? Just looking at the manual (2019 revised copy), it does appear they have a slight curve to the liner in one of the photos. I was considering going back and opening up those holes a bit more. Adding a curve might be a better solution.
liner.png
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
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08-04-2020, 02:35 PM
#131
Member
I appreciate everyone's feedback on the aluminum panels. FFR sent me a copy of the revised manual and I still don't see mention of those aluminum parts E and F.
I finally have all of the body panels in place with a rough fit. I also started working on the few interior pieces (dash and center console). I would love to have a more dressed up interior but for now I think I just want to get everything functional any maybe get this thing on the road so I can work out the bugs.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/C4MoaLA2xRhw3dpB9
818C - #458 | Delivered-11/16/16 | First Start/Go Kart-8/24/18 |
Daily: 2004 WRX
Weekend: 2012 S4
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08-04-2020, 04:29 PM
#132
I can’t remember seeing a “window liner” in my kit, but I’m winging most of my build to suit myself anyway.
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08-04-2020, 06:05 PM
#133
Yes, I love Technology
Originally Posted by
FFRWRX
‘A’ is the headliner. It is supposed to be glued up into the roof, but will fall off so don’t use it there. Use it as nice size piece of aluminum for wherever you might need some. I cut it up and used it on the rear of the firewall.
More than one has described the headliner coming down repeatedly with different adhesives. I placed a small aluminum tab at the left and right sides, halfway along each, screwed into the air scoop channels with some sealant. The tabs trap the sides of the headliner of course. I bent an upward curve, pretty significant, into the aluminum "A" piece. I did put a couple "dollups" of urethane sealant in there, but the main thing holding my plate in place is those screws and the bend shape keeps it up there tight. Screws have to tear out for it to come loose. Updated the original image I posted here to show the tabs.
Oh - and there was plenty of room to sandwich in some layers of silver mylar bubble wrap for insulation without adding any weight.
Last edited by aquillen; 08-05-2020 at 08:44 AM.
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08-04-2020, 07:41 PM
#134
After reading about the woes of attaching the ceiling panel, I decided to just spray the underside of mine with the Lizardskin products.