Roadster body placement

[SteveP]

I'm chicken and afraid to start drilling holes in the body unless I am sure they will be in the right places. I've placed the body on the chassis and trial mounted the hood and have several questions:
1. The hood just fits into the body with no hinges. With the hinges the hood sits too high. I read that the front of the body on a Mk. 4 should be raised 9/16 inch above the 3/4 inch tubes along the hood opening. Is that correct? As I read the instructions, the body is riveted directly to the tubes.
2. I have a 3/8 gap between the dashboard and the flange on the cockpit front body opening. The back of the body opening fits tightly against the rear cockpit wall. The drivers door hinge interferes with the body. How far can you move the body forward without creating unintended consequences?
3. Are there other ways to hold the hood down rather than using the original style latches. They may be original but they look clunky like my Grandfathers 1950's Case tractor. Has anyone used pins, Dzus fasteners, etc. with good results?

[edwardb]

1. The height of the front of the body is controlled mainly by the firewall (with bulb seal) and the front quick jack bolts and brackets. In that location, it will be above the 3/4-inch tubes. That's normal. There's cushioning provided in the kit to fill the gap. I know the instructions say to put screws through the body into the 3/4-inch tubes. Most of us don't. I never have and it's never been a problem. If you choose to still do it, just don't draw them down tight. Let the body stay suspended over the tubes. As you found out, the hood won't fit properly if you pull it down.

2. For front to back, the body door opening should be just ahead of the door latch tabs. Discussed and pictured in multiple threads. Like these: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ting-Questions. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post318773. If you haven't already, you'll need to trim the cockpit on the back wall and likely the dash area as well.

3. On your own here. Recall seeing some other treatments. But I'm personally fine with the handles. They're one of many original style aspects to the car. You've got a ways to go if you starting eliminating them. My opinion anyway.

[SteveP]

Paul:
Thank you for the advice and the links. It helps build confidence to see what spacing works. I would be stuck without the forum. I don't know of any local experienced builders with project I can look at.
I will probably use the original latches on the hood if others have not done something else. I'm reluctant to make many changes that have not been used by others because they easily turn into "quick sand" problems that take lots of time and effort.
Regarding proven modifications, I have seen mentions of a windshield mount trick you have. I haven't found your post. Would you please tell me where it is?

[CraigS]

The earlier MkIs, IIs, and IIIs had the body attached to the square tubes at the hood opening. I believe it started w/ the MkIVs where the body stays above the tubes and so is not fastened to them. The body height at the front is primarily determined by the mounts that tie into the front parking/ turn signal lights.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You need the nose to be 1/2"-5/8" above the tubes at the miter where the tubing angles down to the bumper mounts (any less and you won't be able to get the front of the hood down far enough):



The body should be positioned so that the door flange is around 1/4" forward of the latch striker tab (this usually requires cutting back the roll on the underside of the cowl):



No screws around the perimeter of the engine compartment opening.

Good luck,
Jeff

noseshim.jpg striker tab mark eaton.jpg

[edwardb]

... have seen mentions of a windshield mount trick you have. I haven't found your post. Would you please tell me where it is?

Scroll down a bit in this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post246493. Full disclosure, not my idea though. Saw it a number of years ago in another build thread and have done it a couple times and posted about it. Helped a local build buddy do the same mod again not long ago. Easy and works well.

[SteveP]

Jeff and Paul;
Thank you for the help. I'm getting confident enough to go back to work on the car. i was interrupted by a water leak and the need to dig a 7 foot deep hole to fix it. It will be good to put the shovel down and have some fun.