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New Hot Rod Fuel Tank
I started my Hot Rod build Dec 2019 here in Oregon. I am fitting the gas tank and I see the the inside of the tank is bare metal and will certainly rust over time. Is anyone putting a coat of tank sealer inside the tank before install? I do not see any discussions on this in the Forums.
Advise please
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Senior Member
I used the Boyd tank so haven't seen the newer FFR HR tank but I thought it was aluminum?
Steve
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
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PLATNUM Supporting Member
You can if you want. I have not heard of one rusting out to my knowledge.
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Moderator
Originally Posted by
FF33rod
I used the Boyd tank so haven't seen the newer FFR HR tank but I thought it was aluminum?
Steve
Even the new FFR tank is steel.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all!
build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
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Senior Member
Hmmm. Maybe to get a bit more weight in the a$$ end
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
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Most all production cars use steel tanks and I don't believe I've ever seen one that has an internal coating. Some however are aluminum.
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Senior Member
A Full tank is your friend. an empty tank when unused for awhile will condense water from the air in the tank when it cools down. Use fuel stabilizer when stored.
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Seasoned Citizen
If the tank is bare steel (no corrosion preventative coating) expect it to rust and in dusty & high humidity areas, expect it to start sooner than later. All petroleum fuels are susceptible to microbial contamination, including gasoline. Microbes (found in soil & dust) are corrosive and will eventually eat through common coatings like zinc and cad. Gasoline is frequently blended with alcohol which is corrosive and has an affinity for water and water vapor in the air space above the fuel. These things just help the rusting process.
Even OEM tanks and fuel lines that are zinc coated can corrode. And for those that own diesel powered cars and trucks, it's especially a problem as that fuel tends to be easily contaminated with microbial growth. The "bugs" quickly multiply exponentially and during their life cycle bugs die off and their bodies become acidic when they decay which eats away the protective coating. The slime resulting from microbial contamination clogs fuel filters and injectors. Condensation in the tank acts as an oxidizer and the rust begins. You do treat your diesel fuel with a biocide every year, right?
Last edited by NAZ; 07-18-2020 at 07:57 AM.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build:
33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
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Interesting info NAZ, guess that’s why some cars have switched to plastic tanks.
My old 70’s motorcycle tank had started to rust and clog the 4 carbs. I coated the inside of the tank which was easy to do on a small tank.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
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what was the part number on boyds tank.
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Originally Posted by
ken33
what was the part number on boyds tank.
Super easy to find on the Boyd website. They specifically have a ff5 section and the hot rod is listed. It has 3 options, external fuel pump, internal fuel pump mid range, internal fuel pump fancypants. On my phone or id post it. Quick Google search and you should find it no problem. Just got mine and its awesome. No more crappy seals.
You'll need to buy a new fuel gauge to match their level sensor ohms(or buy your own level sensor, research required) and a new fuel filler neck since the location is not the same.
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Senior Member
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
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Senior Member
I'm actually surprised the non-EFI tank is so reasonable ($282) for an aluminum tank. I was expecting at least $400 before I clicked on the link.
I'm running a carb on my set up so now knowing the price, I'm seriously thinking about getting the $282 tank for my build.
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Originally Posted by
33fromSD
I'm actually surprised the non-EFI tank is so reasonable ($282) for an aluminum tank. I was expecting at least $400 before I clicked on the link.
I'm running a carb on my set up so now knowing the price, I'm seriously thinking about getting the $282 tank for my build.
If you get the vent and the sender unit + shipping (assume by your name you are in SD like me) you'll be at $400. Add in another $65 for the new fuel gauge and $20 bucks for a new fuel filler, total replacement cost is about $485 (this is what I spent).
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
fostia
If you get the vent and the sender unit + shipping (assume by your name you are in SD like me) you'll be at $400. Add in another $65 for the new fuel gauge and $20 bucks for a new fuel filler, total replacement cost is about $485 (this is what I spent).
Ah....I see, there are gotchas....I didn't dig that deep, just opened the link above and saw the tank...good to know...Thanks.
For me SD is South Dakota,
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