These look like a great product... But I can't figure out how to install them. The fronts don't have anything anywhere near where the mounting holes are. The rears have front mounting holes, that seem to punch into the cabin which seems less than ideal, and nothing for the rear of them.
I got the push through connectors and two "L" brackets. No instructions.
I ended up making a bracket at the top, and at the front. Just a simple 90 degree piece of angle aluminum. Both bolted to the 3/4 inch tube. The liners also needed some trimming on mine. A little at a time till they fit right, and cleared the front wheels when turned full left and right. The rears pretty much fit right in. I also ended up drilling through the elephant ears and using #10 machine screws and nuts.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Just to be clear, the front of the rear liners are drilled into and secured in the back of the cabin?
Thats what I did. I didn't use the push through plastic brads though. I used #10-32 screws and nyloc nuts. For the ones that came into the rear of the cockpit, I used the black oxide stainless screws and fender washers. Pretty much hides them in the black carpet, plus they are behind the seats and mostly not visible anyway.
One other thing I did extra (along with about a thousand other things) was to add a support/brace for the lower part of the rear elephant ear. (You can see them in the pictures.). I didn't really like the way it just hung down there with no stability. Each side is different, but I made it work.
Last edited by boat737; 05-16-2019 at 10:07 PM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Great pics and I definitely want to go this route for some protection.
I haven't been able to get in contact with him.
Anyone know if he still takes orders? And best way to contact - phone or email?
Wow, those look nice. I think they really make the car look more complete. Thanks for sharing. It's on my list now!
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
Great pics and I definitely want to go this route for some protection.
I haven't been able to get in contact with him.
Anyone know if he still takes orders? And best way to contact - phone or email?
Thx
Well, I guess if you just follow the link to his website, you'd find the answers.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
One more option for installing the front liners: notch the liner to fit around the 3/4" frame tube that runs forward to the quickjack mount. The frame tube prevents any up/down or left/right motion. If you have the Breeze lower radiator mount the liner can be tucked in behind one of the bolt heads to prevent any fore/aft motion. Holds the liner securely without the need for any additional hardware.
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MKIV Roadster #8641
Complete Kit with IRS, Eaton Detroit Truetrac, 3.55 gears, Wilwood Brakes
Ford Racing Z427 w/ Pro-M Sequential Port EFI System
TKO 600 + McLeod Midshifter; Fast Freddie's Electro-Hydraulic power steering
Miller Customs Bodywork & Paint
I finally reached him a few years ago. His email inbox was full then and it probably still is now, so email probably won't work. I also called him and left messages, but no response. Then another member said to call him Sunday evening, it he answered!! Not sure why he doesn't return voice messages - maybe that inbox is full too!?
Steve
FFR #8305; IRS, 347; T5 Trans; EFI, 3.27 Rear; 17x9" Front; 17x10.5" Rear
Paint - Ford Magnetic Metallic Gray (J7) with Black Stripes; Painted by "da Bat"
Complete Kit Delivered 05/15/2014; Titled and Registered 4/14/2017 as a 1965!!
Hello boat737,
Front wheel well question-
what did you use to cut the liner for your air vent tubes?
Also, what did you use to trim the holes you cut?
I used a simple saber saw (jig saw) with a fine tooth blade. I measured out the best I could, then started small, test fit, opened up the hole with some more cutting, test fit, etc. Take it a little at a time. I did the cutting on a work stand, so I had the liner in and out of the fender 6 or 8 times making small trimming cuts each time.
I thought I had gotten the trim from Mc Master, but I can't find a record of it. I used something like this I think https://www.mcmaster.com/edge-trim/p...lastic-trim-7/ (the legs have cuts in order to facilitate a bit more bending/smaller radius). I'm pretty sure the one I used is plastic, but rubber ones I'm sure could work, maybe even metal if you can develop a way to make a smooth bend. Maybe something here might work better. https://www.mcmaster.com/edge-trim
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
I finally reached him a few years ago. His email inbox was full then and it probably still is now, so email probably won't work. I also called him and left messages, but no response. Then another member said to call him Sunday evening, it he answered!! Not sure why he doesn't return voice messages - maybe that inbox is full too!?
Alex is back and filling orders. I sent him the form and money about 2 weeks ago and my liner set arrived today.
Thanks Alex!!
Steve
2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.
I just received my wheel well liners this week. I spoke with Alex this morning and he is still in business for both wheel well liners and the glove boxes. He told me his server is down and he is trying to contact the provider. I agree with Kane. The best way to contact him is by phone or text. He usually answers text messages.
Picked up at factory Sept. 2017. First start April 2020. Licensed April 2021.
408w, AFR heads, Sniper fuel injection system, TKO 600, 2017 IRS, 17” Halibrands, Wilwood brakes, heater, leather heated seats, dual roll bars.
Has anybody had any luck getting a hold of Alex lately? I’ve tried calling and texting multiple times and the website referenced is no longer valid. Getting to the point where it seems he is out of business. Alternately, does anybody have another option to try? In looking at various Cobra sites I’ve run across Top of the Hill that the Superformance guys seemed to have had some success with in the past. Unfortunately,after 3 calls I can’t seem to get a response from them either. Would appreciate some referrals for businesses that want to act like adults rather than part timers. Got a set of 100 TW tires coming in soon and really would like to get the body protected prior to the rocks starting to fly. Thanks!
Has anybody had any luck getting a hold of Alex lately? I’ve tried calling and texting multiple times and the website referenced is no longer valid. Getting to the point where it seems he is out of business. Alternately, does anybody have another option to try? In looking at various Cobra sites I’ve run across Top of the Hill that the Superformance guys seemed to have had some success with in the past. Unfortunately,after 3 calls I can’t seem to get a response from them either. Would appreciate some referrals for businesses that want to act like adults rather than part timers. Got a set of 100 TW tires coming in soon and really would like to get the body protected prior to the rocks starting to fly. Thanks!
Can't help you with Alex. Everything I've seen/heard is that he's not available any longer. Maybe someone has better information. I'm curious about your comment "body protected" though. What is it you think they'll protect? The inside of the wheel wells is what they cover. Are you afraid of damaging the body inside the wheel wells? Most of us put a few layers of bedliner in there. Have thousands of miles and no damage on mine. What you do need to protect ASAP is the rear wheel flair right behind the doors. That area gets hammered more than any other part of the body. The wheel well liners do nothing there. Most use a layer of clear paint protectant film like 3M Scotchgard or XPEL (my personal choice). You can also put a layer of film on the lower part of the fenders behind the rear wheels. But I haven't found that takes nearly the same beating.
I've seen the Alex wheel well liners. Agree they give the wheel openings a nice clean look. Although if you black everything out it looks about the same IMO. Also whatever rock or road debris noise you hear might be dampened more than hitting the glass. Up to you whether you think it's worth it.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Paul, did you install your own EXPEL or have it done at the body shop?
For the simple stuff yes, I cut and apply my own EXPEL. Like the pieces on the fender flairs, behind the wheels, etc. Apply it wet and squeegee it out just like the directions describe. I haven't tried anything harder and don't plan to.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I've got Alex's Wheel Well Liners but have yet to install them as I'm still in gel coat. Just over 100 miles on the car.
My take: Yes, it keeps debris from hitting the fiberglass above which can be protected in other ways but more importantly it will keep the debris and WATER from splashing up front onto the wiring and lighting. Just one step to avoiding corrosion and electrical problems in the future. In the rear, it's not as important because you have an elephant ear to help deflect that water from the wiring but I think it helps keep water and debris right there in the wheel well, keeping it from finding it's way into all the many crevasses in the chassis and body+. And as Paul said, it gives the wheel well a finished look.
Can't help you with Alex. Everything I've seen/heard is that he's not available any longer. Maybe someone has better information. I'm curious about your comment "body protected" though. What is it you think they'll protect? The inside of the wheel wells is what they cover. Are you afraid of damaging the body inside the wheel wells? Most of us put a few layers of bedliner in there. Have thousands of miles and no damage on mine. What you do need to protect ASAP is the rear wheel flair right behind the doors. That area gets hammered more than any other part of the body. The wheel well liners do nothing there. Most use a layer of clear paint protectant film like 3M Scotchgard or XPEL (my personal choice). You can also put a layer of film on the lower part of the fenders behind the rear wheels. But I haven't found that takes nearly the same beating.
I've seen the Alex wheel well liners. Agree they give the wheel openings a nice clean look. Although if you black everything out it looks about the same IMO. Also whatever rock or road debris noise you hear might be dampened more than hitting the glass. Up to you whether you think it's worth it.
Paul,
My concern is that the softer compound tire will tend to pick up and material from the road surface and throw it into the underside of the body. Just too much construction here in CLT and lot’s of debris on local road surfaces. I’ve purchased a roll of the Track Protection tape to deal with the external sources until I can find a local source for Excel or 3M external paint protection. Just surprised at the lack of response from vendors. Pretty sure I wouldn’t have a job if I treated my customers that way.
Regards,
Jeff
Paul,
My concern is that the softer compound tire will tend to pick up and material from the road surface and throw it into the underside of the body. Just too much construction here in CLT and lot’s of debris on local road surfaces. I’ve purchased a roll of the Track Protection tape to deal with the external sources until I can find a local source for Excel or 3M external paint protection. Just surprised at the lack of response from vendors. Pretty sure I wouldn’t have a job if I treated my customers that way.
Regards,
Jeff
I understand your concern. I've used sticky tires too. Although maybe not that sticky. My point was, and remains, if you want protection you can layer on bedliner and there won't be an issue. It works. Agree the wheel well liners offer protection as well, and some like the look better. But you can get similar results without them. Many have. The situation with Alex isn't new. It's been that way for a long time and maybe now is officially over.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I understand your concern. I've used sticky tires too. Although maybe not that sticky. My point was, and remains, if you want protection you can layer on bedliner and there won't be an issue. It works. Agree the wheel well liners offer protection as well, and some like the look better. But you can get similar results without them. Many have. The situation with Alex isn't new. It's been that way for a long time and maybe now is officially over.
Unfortionately, I think you are correct about Alex’s situation. I had considered the bed liner solution when I first started pondering the issue; but read several threads that described the process as being very messy. Since the car is completed I am hoping for a mechanical solution rather than a “paint on” answer. Currently hoping for a response from Top of the Hill as I like the idea of a glue on padding as it retains the under chassis air flow. While the water and oil temps are well within acceptable ranges it still gets uncomfortably warm in the foot wells in the summer. Guess it’s the trade off for year round driving excitement. If I can find a solution of that type I’ll post up for the group.
Cheers,
Jeff
Not trying to step on any toes here, but we're working on a Mk 4 for a customer here that wants these installed on his car. I've reached out to Alex to purchase these with no luck.....which means I'm probably going to have to make them myself. And if I'm going to go thru the hassle of creating templates and brackets from scratch and making them myself for one car, I might as well make them available to others if there is a demand for them. Can anyone tell me what the thickness is of the material that was used? 3/32"?....1/8"? With the elephant ears in the rear and the alum splash guards behind the front tires, is it really necessary to extend the liners down and cover those areas that are already covered? Seems to me that it would make more sense to just run the liners from the tops of the aluminum splash panels and run them forward and down to where Alex's panels run to?
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
vraptor The rocks hitting the aluminum rear panels is loud the liner plastic muffles the noise. I had made PVC/ABS plastic flat panels for the aluminum in the wheel wells and it really helped the noise and made the car seem more solid. I did not have plastic on the tops but did have heavy bed liner. I used 1/8" thick material and pop rived in place. That was like 14 yrs ago.
Not trying to step on any toes here, but we're working on a Mk 4 for a customer here that wants these installed on his car. I've reached out to Alex to purchase these with no luck.....which means I'm probably going to have to make them myself. And if I'm going to go thru the hassle of creating templates and brackets from scratch and making them myself for one car, I might as well make them available to others if there is a demand for them. Can anyone tell me what the thickness is of the material that was used? 3/32"?....1/8"? With the elephant ears in the rear and the alum splash guards behind the front tires, is it really necessary to extend the liners down and cover those areas that are already covered? Seems to me that it would make more sense to just run the liners from the tops of the aluminum splash panels and run them forward and down to where Alex's panels run to?
I would be interested in buying a set. I also like the added protection a rock hitting hard to the underside of the fiberglass and causing paint damage. Please send me a PM and we can work out the details. I tried reaching out to Alex as well with no success.
I have a set of Alex's liners that I haven't installed yet. Let me know what info you need.
-John
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
Hi JohnK......if you want to shoot me an email to [email protected] we will get something worked out. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for the rest of the replies here! Yes, the noise issue with the rocks hitting the plastic instead of the aluminum makes sense. Give me a bit here and I'll get something going for you guys.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts