Kleiner Mod?

[BeePea]

Forum friends, I performed the search and found many mention of the Kleiner Mod for the quick jack bolts but could not find mention on the specifics of the parts/install. Can anyone be my guilding light?

Thanks!

[GoDadGo]

Forum friends, I performed the search and found many mention of the Kleiner Mod for the quick jack bolts but could not find mention on the specifics of the parts/install. Can anyone be my guilding light?

Thanks!

Basically, you use Couple Nuts with Short Bolts on the rear.

This gives you a way to install the rear quick jacks or rear bumper and bumper over-riders without having to drop the tank to stick the bolts through.
I used threaded rods and some well-placed double nuts to install the rear bumper so it does work and tons of guys do the same thing.
Sorry that I don't have any pictures that would help but hopefully my explanation is all you need.

Hope This Helps!

[David Hodgkins]

Pics would be nice if anyone has them...

[AC Bill]

There is some sizes mentioned in these posts, if that's what you mean by specifics.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...th-coupler-mod

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...pping-gas-tank

https://www.ffcars.com/threads/rear-...xactly.479298/

[Jeff Kleiner]

Here it is from when I wrote it up way back in 2014. It's not mentioned in the text but I use 7/16-14 couplers, threaded rod and nuts.

************************************************** ***************************************
I just had a PM from someone asking about my optional method for mounting the rear quick jacks given the tight space to do so with the tank installed. I looked and it appears that I have never posted it on this site so here it is imported from the other forum:

The RH side of a Mk3 is a pain however with the lowered structure for the non-perky butt on the Mk4 it's all but impossible to access the bolts once the tank is installed and the trunk floor is completed.

My solution is to use a 1/2" long bolts from the tank side threaded into coupler nuts:




There are no sleeves on the inside; instead I use all thread. After putting it thru the body but before threading it into the coupler I put a fender washer then a nut on it---the washer winds up against the inside of the body and the nut is between it and the coupler. After the all thread is snugged into the coupler the "floating" nuts and washers are used in conjunction with the sleeves and jack bolts on the outside to adjust the rear valance in or out as needed to meet the lower edge of the trunk lid. Afterwards with it positioned and locked down I cut off the excess all thread and install the quick jacks with chrome acorn nuts & chrome washers. Although you really have to stick your head inside to see it the coupler nut plus a couple of inches of all thread remain visible:



To finish it off I simply cover the whole works with a piece of wire harness split loom:



Nothing fancy, just hardware store all thread, couplers, nuts & washers. Simple---cheap---easy

Hope that helps!

Jeff

[BeePea]

Here it is from when I wrote it up way back in 2014. It's not mentioned in the text but I use 7/16-14 couplers, threaded rod and nuts.

************************************************** ***************************************
I just had a PM from someone asking about my optional method for mounting the rear quick jacks given the tight space to do so with the tank installed. I looked and it appears that I have never posted it on this site so here it is imported from the other forum:

The RH side of a Mk3 is a pain however with the lowered structure for the non-perky butt on the Mk4 it's all but impossible to access the bolts once the tank is installed and the trunk floor is completed.

My solution is to use a 1/2" long bolts from the tank side threaded into coupler nuts:




There are no sleeves on the inside; instead I use all thread. After putting it thru the body but before threading it into the coupler I put a fender washer then a nut on it---the washer winds up against the inside of the body and the nut is between it and the coupler. After the all thread is snugged into the coupler the "floating" nuts and washers are used in conjunction with the sleeves and jack bolts on the outside to adjust the rear valance in or out as needed to meet the lower edge of the trunk lid. Afterwards with it positioned and locked down I cut off the excess all thread and install the quick jacks with chrome acorn nuts & chrome washers. Although you really have to stick your head inside to see it the coupler nut plus a couple of inches of all thread remain visible:



To finish it off I simply cover the whole works with a piece of wire harness split loom:



Nothing fancy, just hardware store all thread, couplers, nuts & washers. Simple---cheap---easy

Hope that helps!

Jeff

Thank you!

[Ducky2009]

I used the Kleiner method as well. I cut the supplied spacers, making short spacers for inside the trunk, and spacers between the body and bumper, and between the bumper and over-riders.

I wanted the Over-Riders to be out further that the bumper, and achieved that. What I didn't consider.... Length of spacers and length of trunk key. See pics. I plan to adjust the spacer length, just haven't gotten to it yet.

PS: If you add washers on the outside (between body and spacers), use SS washers.... plated washers will eventually rust.
PSS: I've since made new spacers to push the bumper bar out further. Now the key fits, no problem.

[PMD24]

Could you just have the cylinder replaced with one that uses a short key?