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Wilwood clutch AN fitting question...
Hi all, getting close to dropping the Coyote in my ‘65 coupe, and I’m sticking with the MT82 transmission that came with the take off powertrain I purchased. Using the Formacars kit. As a result, I have a hydraulic clutch, and I have the FF clutch kit, which is basically an extra Wilwood master cylinder. The clutch is set up for a 1/4 inch line, but the output on the MC is 3/16 NPT. 2 questions:
1) can I get an adapter to convert the 3/16 to -4 AN? (Or does that sort of conversion screw up the pressure because the line is larger than the initial fitting)? I can’t find this sort of adapter online.
2) since the brass 90 degree fitting that comes with the MC is already 1/4 inch, can I just remove that brass fitting and screw in a 1/4” NPT by -4AN adapter directly on the end of the MC? It physically fits fine (I tried it) but not sure if it will work under pressure or if that 90 degree is somehow special (seems to have a small internal hole in it)
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B7FCCBD5-7CF9-4C53-9CD2-566CE9835F40.jpg
Tried to attach a couple pictures.
Thanks all. Emerson
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FFR Maven
The inside diameter of the tubing/hose used to carry the fluid is irrelevant. Larger diameter means more volume, so more fluid to fill the system and resist heat, but hydraulically speaking the force of actuating the clutch is entirely dictated by the following:
1. MC Bore (piston size in the master cylinder)
2. Length of pedal
3. Ratio of pedal pivot to MC bore
4. Pressure of the diaphragm springs of the clutch
Since many of these things are already "matched" due to you using the donor parts, most of that is already sorted. Basically the only thing you're changing is the pedal, assuming you're using the FFR-provided Wilwood pedal assembly. The hydraulics will be fine... adapt the lines however you need to using quality fittings, and you should be good to go.
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Originally Posted by
Logan
The inside diameter of the tubing/hose used to carry the fluid is irrelevant. Larger diameter means more volume, so more fluid to fill the system and resist heat, but hydraulically speaking the force of actuating the clutch is entirely dictated by the following:
1. MC Bore (piston size in the master cylinder)
2. Length of pedal
3. Ratio of pedal pivot to MC bore
4. Pressure of the diaphragm springs of the clutch
Since many of these things are already "matched" due to you using the donor parts, most of that is already sorted. Basically the only thing you're changing is the pedal, assuming you're using the FFR-provided Wilwood pedal assembly. The hydraulics will be fine... adapt the lines however you need to using quality fittings, and you should be good to go.
Thank you for this explanation. Makes sense. I’m going to try it and see how it works. Thanks! 👍
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