MK4 Complete Kit

[Christopher]

I must be about 2-4 weeks into the research stage of trying to finalize my complete kit order. One day I think I am almost done, and then it feels like I go backwards the next day back to the starting line. I am 99% sure I am going to go with a Fuel Injected 427 and not sure if manual or automatic transmission. My second choice is a Coyote 5.0 fuel injected. My hot rod I have now has a T-5 in it and I love it, but if I want my wife to drive it and somebody my kids, might be better putting in a automatic. I am 100% getting IRS and sway bars. I am a 46 year old farmer with 3 girls. Lol. Topics that I keep going back and forth with and wanted some opinions from people already done and driving please. Just unsure if the extra cost is worth it, yet I know its cheaper and easier in the long run to do it from the start versus trying to convert it after the build.

1. Clutch package (If I go with manual transmission). Pro's and Con's

2. Power Steering

3. KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks

4. Mustang IRS Rear Brake kit and Brakes

5. Mustang IRS Center Section Spindle and Hubs

6. Wilwood Brakes


Thank you to everyone in advance

[hineas]

There are a lot of opinions on these options and all of them are different. My personal opinion is that no matter what you decide it will be a good decision.

We just completed our mechanical portion of the build, so I don't have much experience driving, but here is my $0.02.

1: I love my hydraulic clutch. It just feels right. We have the internal throwout bearing and had to pull the transmission apart with only 2 miles on it because our hose was rubbing on the pressure plate. To prevent this you just have to make sure there is no slack in the hose inside the bell housing.

Another option is an external hydraulic mechanism for the clutch. I have no experience but I believe it connects where the clutch cable connects on a manual clutch.

I have driven a manual clutch in a Mk3 and I personally didn't like the force required to push the pedal in. My leg was tired after 30 minutes of driving.

2. The majority here recommend the power steering. The car is light and responsive, and the force required in a manual rack isn't bad (expect when parking). The real benefit of power steering is that you can increase caster which will make it track better on the highway making a better driving experience. So far I have enjoyed our power steering and am glad we did it. If you are in the fence, you can buy an electric assist that will allow you to do the increase caster. The electric assist allows you to adjust how much assist with a knob on your dash.

After driving ours for about 15 miles in go-kart mode, I don't think I'll ever build one without the hydraulic steering. It just feels right to me.

3. I don't have any experience with this. We went with the base tubes. I assume having more adjustable shocks would be more beneficial for racing, but I don't know.

4-5: I have a solid axle, I don't have any experience with the IRS.

6: my personal opinion is that these cars are LIGHT. The stock brakes are more than sufficient and I can lock up my tires when going 30 mph with the stock brakes. Bigger, nicer brakes would be nice if you need the bigger size for extra cooling (racing). I have no regrets with just the standard brakes. The car stops on a dime.

[Christopher]

Thank you VERY much for your time and knowledge. Greatly appreciated.

There are a lot of opinions on these options and all of them are different. My personal opinion is that no matter what you decide it will be a good decision.

We just completed our mechanical portion of the build, so I don't have much experience driving, but here is my $0.02.

1: I love my hydraulic clutch. It just feels right. We have the internal throwout bearing and had to pull the transmission apart with only 2 miles on it because our hose was rubbing on the pressure plate. To prevent this you just have to make sure there is no slack in the hose inside the bell housing.

Another option is an external hydraulic mechanism for the clutch. I have no experience but I believe it connects where the clutch cable connects on a manual clutch.

I have driven a manual clutch in a Mk3 and I personally didn't like the force required to push the pedal in. My leg was tired after 30 minutes of driving.

2. The majority here recommend the power steering. The car is light and responsive, and the force required in a manual rack isn't bad (expect when parking). The real benefit of power steering is that you can increase caster which will make it track better on the highway making a better driving experience. So far I have enjoyed our power steering and am glad we did it. If you are in the fence, you can buy an electric assist that will allow you to do the increase caster. The electric assist allows you to adjust how much assist with a knob on your dash.

After driving ours for about 15 miles in go-kart mode, I don't think I'll ever build one without the hydraulic steering. It just feels right to me.

3. I don't have any experience with this. We went with the base tubes. I assume having more adjustable shocks would be more beneficial for racing, but I don't know.

4-5: I have a solid axle, I don't have any experience with the IRS.

6: my personal opinion is that these cars are LIGHT. The stock brakes are more than sufficient and I can lock up my tires when going 30 mph with the stock brakes. Bigger, nicer brakes would be nice if you need the bigger size for extra cooling (racing). I have no regrets with just the standard brakes. The car stops on a dime.

[edwardb]

I’m not 100% sure what you’re asking here. Whether you want specific recommendations or just comments about each. Here’s my take FWIW:

1. There are multiple clutch options for manual transmission. Mainly you’ll be matching to whatever engine, flywheel, transmission you end up with. Just don’t over clutch it. Guys sometimes put big heavy duty performance clutches in their builds and then end up with a heavy clutch pedal. Match the clutch to the power you have and how you plan to use the car. I’m a fan of hydraulic, which is an easy mod with the kit provided Wilwood pedal box. I’ve used the external slave setup from Mike Forte on a couple builds and it works OK. On my Coupe, I went with the internal hydraulic throw-out bearing. I like it a lot. Cheaper, easier to install, slightly lighter feel, self-adjusting. But you’ll get negative comments about them because there is some risk. Service and/or replacement requires the transmission to be pulled. Not unlike if you had to service or replace the clutch itself. But something to consider.

2. Huge fan of power steering and wouldn’t build another without it. For the reasons already mentioned.

3. Factory Five has two options for Koni shocks. The standard red single adjustable, which are widely used and are a good shock. They also sell a double adjustable upgrade. They’re nice. I’ve had them on a couple builds. For my purposes and my driving, I’ve never adjusted them after the initial installation. So probably overkill and they are expensive. The only comment though is according to what I’ve heard on their Facebook videos, the double adjustable are a bit softer so give a slightly better ride. Could be. Haven’t compared the two different shocks on the same build. Take your choice on this one. Don’t think you’d be disappointed with the standard shocks.

4. I haven’t used the Mustang IRS brakes, so can’t comment in any detail. They’re a good option and a good value for what they are. Need to be matched to your wheel plans.

5. What to say? For IRS you need the center section and knuckles/hubs from a 2015+ Mustang. Factory Five will sell you NIB parts which are catalog items from Ford Performance. They sell a 3.55 center section ratio which is probably the most common and works for nearly all installations. There are other ratio options, limited slip options (clutch or Torsen), and sourcing options. Many guys get them through salvage where they are plentiful and can get some good deals.

6. I’ve also used the upgraded Wilwood brakes on several builds. Including two IRS builds. They’re really nice and work well. The instructions are excellent and for me have gone together perfectly. But, same as the double adjustable shocks, are quite expensive and it’s debatable how much performance they add. Again depending on how you plan to use the car. Properly setup up OE style brakes work fine for street driving. Again a matter of personal choice.

Good luck with your planning and welcome. It's an excellent adventure that I've enjoyed a lot.

[wallace18]

2 suggestions based on my experience.

1. install power brakes/ Power steering
2. 3-link rear end rides better than IRS.
rest of your list looks good.

[edwardb]

2 suggestions based on my experience.

1. install power brakes/ Power steering
2. 3-link rear end rides better than IRS.
rest of your list looks good.

Everyone has their own personal experience. Would be curious what set-ups were compared to arrive at this conclusion. The IRS is sold as the most comfortable ride and with the newer 2015+ setup (not so new any more...) is also the highest performance. Don't want to speak for others, but I think most would agree with this assessment. Including me. Lots of people debate over the added cost of IRS and whether it's worth it. I get that. And most find the 3-link to be acceptable and also performs at a high level for a decent value. But having had both solid axle and IRS, the IRS really is the most compliant and comfortable ride.

[Fman]

I must be about 2-4 weeks into the research stage of trying to finalize my complete kit order. One day I think I am almost done, and then it feels like I go backwards the next day back to the starting line. I am 99% sure I am going to go with a Fuel Injected 427 and not sure if manual or automatic transmission. My second choice is a Coyote 5.0 fuel injected. My hot rod I have now has a T-5 in it and I love it, but if I want my wife to drive it and somebody my kids, might be better putting in a automatic. I am 100% getting IRS and sway bars. I am a 46 year old farmer with 3 girls. Lol. Topics that I keep going back and forth with and wanted some opinions from people already done and driving please. Just unsure if the extra cost is worth it, yet I know its cheaper and easier in the long run to do it from the start versus trying to convert it after the build.

1. Clutch package (If I go with manual transmission). Pro's and Con's

2. Power Steering

3. KONI Front and Rear IRS Shocks

4. Mustang IRS Rear Brake kit and Brakes

5. Mustang IRS Center Section Spindle and Hubs

6. Wilwood Brakes


Thank you to everyone in advance

Christopher, here is my .02... I have a Dart 427 with Edelbrock PF4 EFI, 1300 miles on the car now. The car is an absolute beast with the 427 and zero regrets at this point going all in with the 427... it is amazing to drive and so much damn fun when you hit the throttle However, if you are going to let your kids and wife drive this car I am not sure I would put a 427 in it for that purpose. It is a lot of engine to manage, possibly a 302 or 347 fuel injected or the Coyote might be another option to consider. Trying to visualize my kids or wife driving my car with my current engine would scare the crap out of me... just my opinion.

FWIW I ended up going with a local engine builder so I could customize my engine choices more not sure where you are planning on purchasing your engine/trans?

1. I went with a Mike Forte external slave hydraulic clutch setup, the initial setup took a bit to dial in but once it was set has been great.

2. I ended up with the Jones Racing PS from Gordon Levy, it has been awesome. No issues with over steering, smooth as butter and a pleasure to drive.

3. I have the base Koni shocks with IRS, so far this combo has been fine for street driving. The car seems to drive good for a short wheel based car.

4. I went base Mustang GT brakes with the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotor/pad kit (front and rear). For street driving it has been fine, the brakes will stop the car with no issues. I have taken it down some steep-er canyon roads with semi spirited driving and the brakes never had any issues with fading. Have no idea how they compare to Wilwood but at this point I do not have any regrets going with my current choice.

[Indy Shu]

Don’t use the girls as an excuse, a farmers kids have to learn to drive a stick! Lol

[Christopher]

I tried responding to your last message via PM but your inbox is full and won’t let me. Just so you know I’m not ignoring you. Lol. It says I can’t send it until you erase some. Sorry….this is for Fman