427 SBF Coupe R Build

[GT_Rich]

Hi all, it was suggested in another thread that I make an introduction and build thread. I have a Coupe R on order and I'm currently working on the driveline and collecting parts. This will be a race car. I'm still contemplating whether I even go through the effort of titling it.

Quick background: I've been a forum member for over a decade and had plans to build a Coupe around 2010. I had parted out a few foxbodies and had a complete driveline ready to go. About this same time my wife and I started talking about kids and I decided building a car without a backseat would be a bad idea. I ended up building a 65 Mustang convertible. We still have it and it has become my wife's race car. A few years later I built a 62 Mercury Comet and that has been my race car. We do a lot of autocross together in CAM-T class, along with a little bit of time attack style road racing (point to pass, not wheel to wheel racing). Both cars are pro-touring style builds that do great on the street. I have 20k miles on the Comet and I would say at least half of them are with my kids in the back seat.

Fast forward to now and FFR has the Gen 3 and an R model. I am 6'2" and happy to see the Gen 3 design with a little extra room. I took the plunge and placed an order in late November. The idea is for this to replace the Comet as my race car and put that car back to mostly street duty.

Basics of the build are as follows:
Coupe R chassis
427 small block Ford
Holley Stealth Terminator X fuel injection system
Close ratio TKX
3-link 8.8 rear with 31 spline axles and a TrueTrac
Ordered with no brakes. Will use Brembo four piston fixed caliper brakes front and rear with 13" Cobra rotors.

Ordered with no shocks or springs. Will custom order Viking triple adjustable shocks. I have a bunch of different springs around here. Will probably start off in the 900/600 f/r range.
18x10.5 wheels front and rear with 315 rubber.

I spent the last half of 2021 putting together the engine. Here are the details:
Dart SHP block
4.125" bore x 4.00" stroke
Lunati forged crank (internal balance) Scat rods with ARP2000 bolts
Wiseco forged pistons
12.3:1 compression for E85
TrickFlow 205 11R heads
TrickFlow Stage 3 cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, heavily ported
Champ rear sump pan from Gordon Levy
Drop engine mounts from Gordon as well

I personally spec's this out and blue printed it. Select fit bearings for nominal clearances. I'll include some in process pics along with where I'm at right now, which is wiring up the injection system. The Terminator X system has 6 available inputs for data logging so I am adding sensors to monitor fuel and oil pressure, oil, power steering, and trans temperature, and finally vehicle speed.

If you've read this far thanks for that and I hope you enjoy the build.

Rich
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[GT_Rich]

As the engine sits now. Note the extreme drop base. It's a true 1.75" drop and I had to clearance it in a couple spots to make it fit
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[GT_Rich]

This is the wheel I'm running. Picked them up on a sale from American Muscle on Black Friday. 18x10.5 +23 offset (6.7 BS).

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[Jim1855]

A 427w brother. Good show! I run a very similar drop base air cleaner, works well.
I like the wheels.
Jim

[GT_Rich]

One more thing, I have an Instagram account I use solely for car stuff. It's @custom_comet if you're interested in following along. I will be updating it more regularly than this thread.

[2FAST4U]

That is going to be one sweet ride!

[Logan]

Welcome Rich! Followed your IG this morning too, thanks for the follow back (even though I never post anything there lol).

I like the plan! You're one of the few putting a 427 into the Gen3 Coupe-R. What tires do you run in CAM-T currently, and what do you plan for this build (which I assume you intend to run in CAM-S)?

[GT_Rich]

We currently run Falken RT660s on the Mustang. Good tire. On our second set. On the Comet I run the Kenda KR20A. Long story sorta short is our local club is sponsored by Kenda. The Kenda US tech center is nearby and they use our equipment and location for testing. They sponsor a few of us in return for tire feedback. They are in the middle of a redesign for this tire and looking to make it more geared for autocross. I'll use them on the Daytona if they want to give them to me, but currently they don't make a 315 size.

How can a Daytona run in CAM-S? Rules put us in XP, which is a totally awful index. Is there other documentation that says we can run CAM-S?

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[Logan]

CAM is still a provisional trio of classes as far as the SCCA is concerned. There is a group of events called the CAM Challenge, but its a parallel series not associated with National SCCA tours. CAM classes are also not eligible for championship jackets at SCCA Solo Nationals either. The rules are entirely fit onto a single sheet of paper, and the whole point is "Front engine RWD American cars, run whatcha brung". The Cobra Daytona certainly fits that ethos.

The actual CAM-S rules specifically allow the 1965-67 Cobra roadster replica "kit cars". It is up to interpretation if that applies to the Cobra Daytona, although most folks seem to agree that it does. My suggestion is to confer with your fellow CAM competitors in your local region to see if anyone has a problem with you running in CAM-S. I have talked to the other drivers in my region and none have any issue with my Cobra Daytona running with them in CAM-S. If a tube-chassis Cobra with no roof is allowed, the same car with a roof (and more weight) is just as fair. If they do have a problem with it, you can always run XP.... which if you do, you might as well run Hoosiers. Yeah, the PAX sucks in XP, so why not shoot for top raw/FTD instead of worrying about getting beat by a Miata in PAX? Like I said, CAM is a local playground, you can't climb the ladder all the way to a championship jacket in Lincoln anyway.

Current SCCA CAM Rules:
Eligible Vehicles
• Must be either a domestic automobile or truck (pick-up or SUV) of front-engine, rear-wheel-drive (FE/RWD) configuration (no electric-powered vehicles).
• Must be licensed and insured, as well as fully “street legal” (working lights, etc.).
• Must have “full-size” windshield similar to the original from the manufacturer. Side and rear glass must be present if original for the vehicle. Lexan® or equivalent may be used.
• Must pass the mandatory safety inspection (tech) of Section 3, Vehicles, and must be comply with Appendix I, Sound Measurement Procedures, of the 2022 SCCA National Solo Rules.
• Excluded: Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 (2019); Dodge/SRT Viper (2013-17); Jeep military/CJ/Wrangler models.

CAM-S (Sports)(all eligible vehicles):
• Sports cars, sedans/coupes, trucks, and 1965-67 Cobra roadster replica “kit cars” with seating for 2 or more adults
• Interior floor covering may be removed
• Weight without driver, minimum:
• Corvette (1984-2019); Viper: 2900 lbs
• All other cars: 2500 lbs
• Additional weight for Lexan front windshield: +150 lbs

Link:
https://www.scca.com/announcements/3...y-rules-posted

[GT_Rich]

Since my engine build is finished up it's time to start on the rear end. This rear came from a local junkyard. I cut off the quad shock brackets and the upper 4-link brackets. Wire wheeled everything and got it into a ready to paint condition.

I have a setup tube for an 8.8 that I use to check straightness. This rear had about 0.2 deg of positive camber on both sides. I placed a TIG weld on the top of the tube to try to warp it back to straight. This is a true guess and check operation. I was able to get it pretty close. Less than 0.1 degrees of camber now and tow looks dead neutral. I also checked backlash and pattern on the 3.27 gear set that it came with as I plan to use them and want to get them back to the same spot once I swap the ring gear onto a 31 spline TrueTrac.

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[GT_Rich]

Steward picked up my kit today. Delivery scheduled for this Thursday (9/8/22). I haven't updated this thread in a while. I finished up the rear end many months ago. This includes off the shelf Brembo calipers, 13" Cobra rotors, and a bracket I designed to make it work.

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[GT_Rich]

My kit finally arrived! Got it on the lift, took inventory, and removed the body. I have a significant number of items missing, so decided to pull the body right away and knock out as much rivet work as possible.
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[GT_Rich]

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8.8 that I built. Breeze lower arms. Adjustable links in place of shocks for now to setup everything at ride height.

[GT_Rich]

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For now setup at ride height with adjustable links. Brembo 4 piston calipers from a Caddy ATS. Cobra front rotors. Race ride height with upper arm in the "wrong" spot for more camber gain.

[GT_Rich]

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On the ground as a roller. All front aluminum is installed. DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield used for insulation on the inside of the footboxes. Pedals setup and installed. Radiator and Breeze shroud installed.

This was an Aug 5 build date and I still need major items like fastener kit, steering shaft, headers, gauges, hatch glass. So, I'm going to keep riveting panels and hope for the best.

[GT_Rich]

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Driver position set. Made an offset column mount to center wheel and get height where I wanted it. Super solid feel this way. Ididit quick release hub welded to a standard 3/4 dd shaft.

[GT_Rich]

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Fuel system is complete! I will be running E85 and needed something that would not only survive long term and be reliable but also deliver enough fuel for approximately 600 hp (which is about the volume of 800 hp on gas).

After a lot of consideration I decided to run a surge tank. So, in the fuel tank I have a Walbro 400 lph pump that feeds the surge tank, which has a 525 lph Walbro "hellcat" pump. Both are E85 compliant. All fuel lines and fittings are from Vibrant Performance and these are Teflon lined hoses. The filter is from Aeromotive and is a PN specific to E85 usage. All the aluminum components such as the surge tank are completely anodized. Hopefully this all holds up for a long long time.

[GT_Rich]

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I am putting the battery in the back RH side of the car so this space is available for something useful. This is a Derale fan driven remote mount fluid cooler I am using for engine oil. Then, I piggy backed onto it another Derale Fluid cooler I am using for power steering. The engine oil cooler will be plumbed with -10 AN braided nylon hose and the power steering will be 3/8 rubber hose.

[GT_Rich]

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Engine is in the car! I am using drop mounts but had to use a 1/4" shim between the mount and frame saddles to keep the oil pan flush with the frame rails.

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks great, and really reminds me of when mine was coming together.

[Jim1855]

I like it but then I'm a sucker for 427ci 351W motors and coupes.
Jim

[GT_Rich]

Here is a walk around update video I made. At around the 2 minute mark I go in the car and show how the Silver Sport front shift location for a TKX fits the chassis.

https://youtu.be/zl1q1yYnnEM

[DesertSn8ke]

Thanks for the walk around video. Looks like a great shifter solution. I might have to follow your lead there. Nice to see how you got the 351 block in there. I debated going that route, but I think a 363 will make all the power I want with less fitment issues, and with more induction choices. Though really, your 427 with the Performer RPM is gonna be amazing.

[GT_Rich]

If you go the STX shifter route, I highly recommend this shift arm:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SKM-SRRT01

It's the right height, hardened SS, machined to fit Tremec bolt pattern, and should work with FFR provided boot.
Nice piece for the money. You'll have to grind about 3/16" off the bottom of it to clear the shift boot, but not a big deal.

[burchfieldb]

Here is a walk around update video I made. At around the 2 minute mark I go in the car and show how the Silver Sport front shift location for a TKX fits the chassis.

https://youtu.be/zl1q1yYnnEM

Thanks for the video super cool and helpful. Where did you get you stuff for the radiator tubes and fittings?

[GT_Rich]

Thanks for the video super cool and helpful. Where did you get you stuff for the radiator tubes and fittings?

I'm glad it helped. Aluminum bent tubes came from frozenboost.com. I've used that source for many years. They also have most of the silicone fittings but prices are better on ebay from the various Chinese sellers. You can find each fitting for about $7. I used Gates Powergrip heat shrink hose clamps. Again, eBay.

All tube is 1.5". All Powergrip clamps are 1.75 to 2.00" range. All silicone couplers are 1.5 except for the one at the water pump. That is a 1.75 to 1.5" 45 degree reducer.

Total cost of that stuff was around $150. Less than half the cost of Boig Cool Tubes and you get the ability to tweak angles. I used tbolt clamps at the ends of each run.

[JimStone]

Your car is looking great! I appreciate your thread and it's been very helpful as I plan my build. That STX shift looks sick and is now on my shopping list. It solves a really disturbing problem of having to cut the cross member.

[GT_Rich]

Since a few people found the last video useful, I made another one. This one is specific to "trunk" mounting a battery.

https://youtu.be/XjM86g-wN7Y

[GT_Rich]

Another video update. First time on the scales! I'm trying to guess final weight in this video and I show a list of items and weights. Maybe folks can let me know what I've forgotten.

https://youtu.be/mUhU6U_Z15Q

[Gordon Levy]

There are a few pretty heavy things not considered. Give me a buzz and we can talk.

[GT_Rich]

Another video for anyone that cares. More wiring tips.

https://youtu.be/_OmAz4ZyQgc

[GT_Rich]

It runs!

https://youtu.be/v4wTzleTvlg

[DesertSn8ke]

Amazing. Congratulations! Can't wait till I'm at that point.

[GT_Rich]

Some random progress pics. Engine bay is finally complete. Most of my wiring behind the dash is done, too. I go karted for the first time a couple days ago. I am hoping to do it again tomorrow and maybe get a video.

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[Skuzzy]

Looking good. That is some good size rubber on the front!

[GT_Rich]

Looking good. That is some good size rubber on the front!

Those are just temporary wheels from another car. They are 285. Planning to run 315 front and rear.

[Skuzzy]

Those are just temporary wheels from another car. They are 285. Planning to run 315 front and rear.

315 front and rear?!!?!? Whoa! I did not think you could squeeze 315's up front.

[GT_Rich]

315 front and rear?!!?!? Whoa! I did not think you could squeeze 315's up front.

Yes, many have done either 295 or 315s on 18x11 front rims. Take a peak at Logan's wheel and tire thread which is actually near the top right now in the main Coupe forum. I plan to use 10.5" wide wheels because I bought them on an extremely discounted sale.

[GT_Rich]

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Time to start body work. This is what I am starting with.

[GT_Rich]

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After a day of sanding. Lots of fill work ahead. Mold alignment was not good.