Am I missing something here? Rear shock assembly.

[Chrisg00]

Trying to assemble the rear shocks today. Using the 250# coils and the longer set of the Koni's (front are 2.5" shorter).
With the spring seat half way threaded onto the sleeve, there is only about 1-1/2" of travel before the bumpstop. Surely doesn't look like the illustration in the assembly book!
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
rear shock 2.jpgrear shock assembly.jpgRear shock 3.pdf

[33fromSD]

If my memory serves me correctly I believe you need to move the spring clip up to the upper slot.

fullsizeoutput_72.jpg

Jim

[Chrisg00]

Thanks Jim.

[Shades]

Jim that is a HUGE tip! I just went back to your build thread and saw where you initially had it in the bottom slot as shown in the manual and then moved it up. My adjusting ring is also dangerously close to the top of the adjustment, ride height is about where it should be, but can't go any higher if I wanted to (I'd like to be a little higher), and I was considering getting longer springs or moving to the lower shock mounting hole. Moving that clip is just the ticket to get the adjusting ring near the middle of the threads so I can go up and down for the exact ride height I want.
Another assembly manual fail, but Jim for the win!
THANKS!

[Brave Salmon]

actually, my manual tells you to do exactly that. It is a rev Dso maybe they left it out of the later versions.

[cob427sc]

I never thought of that ! I went so far to make up an extension to the upper shock mount to raise the ride height. I'm going to pull one of the shocks and see if I can do the same and remove the extensions.

[JimLev]

I think I’ll check mine too.
Anybody found an easy way to raise the front after the shocks are installed?
There is no decent access to the adjuster rings.

[33fromSD]

I think I’ll check mine too.
Anybody found an easy way to raise the front after the shocks are installed?
There is no decent access to the adjuster rings.

Took care of that by switching to QA1 Proma Star Double adjustable shocks that can be inverted so all the coil adjustment and dampening/compression knobs are up top in the engine bay. No more breaking knuckles or standing on my head to adjust the front shocks. Even on my 4-post lift the Koni's were a PITA to adjust.

Also went to QA1 Proma Star single adjustable shock in the rear for better fine tuning.

Jim

[NAZ]

I also went with QA1 Proma Star DA and run them inverted on the front which requires some extended caps for spring clearance. Still tight but using one of these spanners with a ratchet and long extension makes it easier to adjust pre-load:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-t115w

I designed my rear suspension so it works with the same shacks as on the front for commonality of spares. The only difference is the spring rates front to rear. IMO, the QA1 shocks are good quality shocks; better than the Koni.

[33fromSD]

I also went with QA1 Proma Star DA and run them inverted on the front which requires some extended caps for spring clearance. Still tight but using one of these spanners with a ratchet and long extension makes it easier to adjust pre-load:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-t115w

I designed my rear suspension so it works with the same shacks as on the front for commonality of spares. The only difference is the spring rates front to rear. IMO, the QA1 shocks are good quality shocks; better than the Koni.

NAZ was a huge help when I was sorting out my shock / spring decisions, very knowledgeable and very helpful!!

Jim

[JimLev]

I had the clip on the lower spot too.

NAZ, I’m wondering if that QA1 tool will work on the non-adjustable Koni’s that FFR sells.
It’s only $20 so I might as well get it.
Next is to try to keep the sleeve from turning while adjusting the ring.

[33fromSD]

I had the clip on the lower spot too.

NAZ, I’m wondering if that QA1 tool will work on the non-adjustable Koni’s that FFR sells.
It’s only $20 so I might as well get it.
Next is to try to keep the sleeve from turning while adjusting the ring.

The sleeve spinning on the Koni Shocks was a big decision factor in me switching to QA1. Make sure you're using permatex anti-seize on the threads of the sleeve (it's helps a bit). When I still had the Koni Shocks I used to use a channel lock pliers with a old bike inner-tube over the teeth of the channel locks so I didn't mar up the threads but it was a PITA.

Not sure why Koni didn't have a way in their design to prevent the sleeve from spinning. Very odd design.

Jim

[NAZ]

Jim, the QA1 adjusting nuts have square notches cut in them where the Koni has 15/64" holes drilled in them. The QA1 spanner would need a pin welded on in place of the square dog that fits the square notches on the QA1 adjusting nut. I don't recall seeing a similar shorty spanner for the Koni but do a search and see if you can find one. It's not difficult to modify a spanner (easier than fabricating one from scratch), I've done a few for special applications. If you had to have a shop weld it for you it's no more than a 1/2-hr of total work and maybe 5-mins to actually weld the pin on.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info guys.
I do have a TIG so I can weld on a round pin or use the bench grinder to round off the square end of the QA1 tool.

[NAZ]

Rock on Jim! A TIG welder and the skill to use it sure comes in handy in our hobby. Been TIG welding all morning fabricating chase truck parts and ran out of beer so I'm done until the wife gets home with a re-supply.

[JimLev]

Looks like the QA1 adjuster tool will be here on Thursday..
I’m still not a good (pretty looking) TIG welder but I can connect 2 pieced of metal.

[jwelch7818]

Jim, I happened upon this thread by accident but, was meant to be. Was having trouble adjusting as well and spring was rubbing against bracket. This eliminated both problems. You've helped me a couple times and do really appreciate the help guys are willing share...

thanks again Jim,
JW

ps..started my 1st build 4 weeks ago just haven't started my thread yet...hate to stop what I'm doing