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Thread: Budget LS Factory Five Roadster

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    I better get in some YouTube time. New to the forum and getting ready for our build.

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  12. #48

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    He'll Always Be A Hot-Rodder From The Dark Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-09-2022 at 05:38 AM.

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    The only thing I have left on the POL is door hardware.

    Great work.
    FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
    Forte 427 Fuel Injected with TKX Transmission
    Forte's Axle

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    Senior Member Jim Frahm's Avatar
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    Based on my limited experience, here's what I would have done differently:

    1st. If using a used motor I would at least replace the oil pump. It's a bit of an effort but not that much money.

    2nd. The LS engines are known for being oil leak free with the exception of the rear oil pan and the area where the front and rear covers meet the engine block/oil pan. I was told by the "experts" that you should install the front and rear covers first, then use ultra grey RTV where those covers meet the block and a very small amount along the sealing surface at the rear of the pan.

    3rd. If you decide not to change the oil pump, make sure you have good oil pressure after you get it running and replace the oil often during the first or second oil change.

    4th. This is the most important step,,,,, continue to have fun.

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    I hate to tell you, but you should really consider taking it apart and starting over. You need the oil pan to be loose when installing the rear cover, then you use the alignment tool to get the cover centered, use a straight edge to get the bottom corners flat with the block, tighten the cover down, and only then can you bolt up the oil pan. Bolting the pan up first will pretty much guarantee you a leak from the RMS very soon after you start running it. Same goes for the front seal when you decide to take that off and put a big cam in it.

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    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    Have you measured the top of your intake manifold cover in relation to the hood? I can’t tell from the video but you might have some clearance issues.
    Build 1 MK4 #10008 - Delivered 03/03/21, Graduated 7/20/22 - Sold 6/6/24
    Build Thread #1 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Build 2 MK4 #11061- Delivered 08/24/24
    Build Thread #2 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...006#post562006

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    Senior Member JB in NOVA's Avatar
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    Congrats on a big milestone! Just catching up with your videos -- they're very good! In your latest one, praying for lower FFR prices made me laugh out loud. Good luck with your current project, and maybe we'll be seeing you on TV one of these days.
    MKIV Complete Kit #9822 l BluePrint 347 EFI l TKO600 l Power Steering l Heater/Defrost l Build Thread

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    Nice job on the videos, I am a little late to the party but 1 tip when working with the sheet Aluminum-When you have to cut an inside corner, when possible drill the corner to put a nice radius or use a rat tail file to round the corner. A straight corner on Aluminum will create a stress point for cracks to propagate from over time. I was watching the pedal install video when I noticed that.

    Also, I have not seen folks use a de-burring tool on the holes in the panels, just wondering if some of the experts think it is not enough value added for these. The exit hole can be pretty rough sometimes.
    I always do that when I bond a flat panel on my formula car.

  43. #73
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    Way to go! Nice work, I also enjoy watching your videos and progress.... Congratulations you will be on the road before you know it.
    Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
    Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131

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    Geez that a lot of wires! It has to be $1000 of copper there.
    My build thread https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Roadster-Build

    Thread on Stainless Steel AN brake lines.

    Thread on fasteners and torque wrenches.

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