hello all. I'm about to hand over my cash to get my 33 on it's way, once i do i'm going to be getting the rear end for the car. I'm going with the 3 point setup and would like to know the best axle for the 3 point setup. Thanks in advance.
Kevin R.
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hello all. I'm about to hand over my cash to get my 33 on it's way, once i do i'm going to be getting the rear end for the car. I'm going with the 3 point setup and would like to know the best axle for the 3 point setup. Thanks in advance.
Kevin R.
FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
Forte 427 Fuel Injected with TKX Transmission
Forte's Axle
Best is often in the eyes of the beholder. No absolutes here. Factory Five has an option for a 3-link solid axle from Moser. Right there on the order form. It's a high quality product that has some upgraded parts compared to a stock axle. But not cheap. Fortes is certainly another option. The hot rod uses a standard width rear axle, so lots of other choices depending on how much work you want to do or have done. 8.8 axles in varying conditions are widely available. What ratio to use is another decision point. The Factory Five Moser axle is 3.55, by far the most common. But you may want to dig into that a little further. Considerations include your engine and trans, and planned use.
Last edited by edwardb; 07-19-2022 at 12:24 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
or just get a junkyard rear and tidy it up! So many options, depends on budget a lot too!
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
i do want to apologize, in my question i try to keep my questions short and to the point but in the process i seem to leave out some pertinent info.
so let me explain in greater detail. I would like to use a Junkyard axle out of a mustang and rebuild it. I have to junkyards less than a 1/8 of mile from me and they have or can get the axle needed. I know about the axle offered by FFR, and it's an option to my budget. Now when it comes to the mustang axle i was wondering which one would need the least amount of excess brackets removed etc. etc. Cars gonna have 383 stroker 436 horse, not gonna race i have another car to do that.
I'm trying to lay out all my cards on the table whether it be a 2 or ace.
Hopefully this makes more sense to those willing to respond
Where are you? I'll have an 8.8 for sale.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I definitely have nothing against salvage yard parts but do yourself a favor, anything drive train related that comes from a salvage yard (engine, tranny, rear-end), be sure to capture the serial number on the part and the VIN # of the car it came from. Needs to be documented. Depending upon your state's registration / inspection rules some are very anal when it comes to donor part lineage. In my case in SoDak even though I bought my engine / tranny from Blueprint engines (new crate engine & tranny) I still needed to provide the serial number & proof of documentation from BP for the inspection process in SoDak and I had to sign an affidavit stating they were not from a donor car in a salvage yard. If they were I would have needed to privode the donor car VIN so the state could run a theft search to verify they were not stolen parts.
I recall some owners on here noting some things they needed to do with donor parts and registration/inspection for other states too.
Documentation is your friend on donor parts.
Enjoy your build, exciting times.
Jim
Last edited by 33fromSD; 07-19-2022 at 02:26 PM.
33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
has anyone ever done a ford 9" or a mopar 83/4 ?
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread
There's a really helpful section in the manual, but just in case you don't have one..
mustang-rears.png
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
yea i can do the fab work and weld on all brackets needed. the 9" inch and 8 3/4 rear ends are esthetically a better looking rear ends than the ford 8.8 and thats why i was wondering if anyone had done one. And that's why i'm trying to collect as much info as necessary to decide.
now that! is some valuable info, thanks Roadracer.
thank you all! the information given by you all is appreciated.. Once i get the kit i'm gonna mock it up like i want, set the tires up and decide width and type of axle.
It's definitely gonna be interestingly fun to put this thing together.
There are 9-inch axles available with foxbody brackets in the correct width, like this:
https://www.quickperformance.com/QP-...ge_p_4015.html
And at $1000 it's not bad...
Or this: https://www.teamzmotorsports.net/product_p/hf9m86.htm
Base housing for $650
Last edited by TxMike64; 07-22-2022 at 04:45 PM.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage
Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
33 Hot Rod w/ 302 & Tremec T5; paint color is 68 Ford Mustang GT LimeGold
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...s-Build-Thread
Just my two cents, not trying to be argumentative. If you go with an 8.8 or anything else from a wrecking yard, remember that it is from a wrecking yard. Assuming the axle tubes are straight because they look straight may not be a good course of action. Further, the axle tubes on an 8.8 are held stationary by four spot welds where the tube fits into the differential housing. Over time the spot welds, especially if they have been stressed in an accident can potentially fail. This twists the axle and results in a really hard to control car. In my experience, the stress on the welds can be exacerbated if the tubes have had a good hard lick in an accident. So, if you pick up an 8.8 unless you know the pedigree, go through it completely. I recommend the axle tubes be welded to the housing by a pretty competent welder using high nickel welding rods. Reinforce the spot welds also. I have seen some drag racers even replace the spot welds with bolts. I never had problems with 9 inch ford rear setups but have heard they can have issues as well. Nothing will pay back as well as ensuring the housing and tubes are straight. Sorry for the rant.
Rear End RR_1564.jpgRear End RR_1568.jpgRear End RR_1627.jpgRear End RR_1574.jpg
thanks WRP, being a drag racer and working with and building my own axles i'm aware of said issues. anything i buy from a junkyard will be gone through. so all that you say is not a "rant" but information provided to all. And with my memory it's a well deserved reminder so thank you.
I still can't decide on which rearend to use. what's going to happen is that i'm going to put everything together except the rearend, set the tires next to the body and decide then. I'm lucky enough to have 2 junkyards a 1/8 mile that have various mustang axles, i have two 8 3/4 axles and the sites to get some ford 9".
seems as though i'm ADD when it comes to this.
thanks
kevin
well to those interested, I ended up with a 2003 mustang axle. I'm going to have to put a limited slip diff in along with new bearings etc etc.IMG_2316[1].jpg