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Thread: Total car width

  1. #1
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    Total car width

    Hi all! Contemplating finally ordering a coupe kit after many years of wanting to! I have a 3 car garage, 2 cars and a lot of bikes (5 boys will do that!). I have a rec room attached to the garage that is 24x25 but it only has a double man door entry. I could replace that with a traditional garage door but that would add expense, decrease insulation, and make the front of our house look ridiculous because it would be so many garage doors for a small front elevation.

    I measured the opening at 71.5” and I see on the FF website that the car is 72” wide. How close to correct is this and is it silly to even ask this question? Thanks so much in advance!

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Just measured mine. The widest point is at the rear fender flairs. 72 inches isn't enough. It's more like 73-74 inches. Depending on side mirrors, that could be additional width. The ones I used are. Sorry, 71.5 isn't going to cut it. Hopefully you can figure something out. We love our Coupe.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Bikes go to the rec room. Problem solved.

    You’re welcome

    Jeff

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    Haha, thanks all! The bikes are in the rec room now because I have a 911 Turbo temporarily in the third bay. Once that’s sold, I’ll order the kit. My only issue is that the third bay, as most are, is pretty tight. Maybe a foot of space on the outer wall. It’s also right next to our van which is frequently in and out. The rec room could be pretty purpose-specific. Any advice from those who have built one in a small third stall with ongoing family life? Where did you put the body?

  5. #5

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    RoadRacer's Avatar
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    Yeah I "negotiated" a car onto the driveway, to give myself room in the garage. But before that, I did work in one bay, and just move the next door car outside while I was working. The body has been both hanging from ceiling and in a lockup at various times.
    James

    FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
    My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
    Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100

  6. #6
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtrag94 View Post
    Haha, thanks all! The bikes are in the rec room now because I have a 911 Turbo temporarily in the third bay. Once that’s sold, I’ll order the kit. My only issue is that the third bay, as most are, is pretty tight. Maybe a foot of space on the outer wall. It’s also right next to our van which is frequently in and out. The rec room could be pretty purpose-specific. Any advice from those who have built one in a small third stall with ongoing family life? Where did you put the body?
    The chassis minus the body will roll through the double door opening (my old place had a big workshop adjoining the garage and I would often roll full chassis through the double doors). The body can live outside…my buddy Aaron has his Coupe body and nose screwed to the wood deck off of his living room while we build the rest of the car. His wife is VERY understanding!



    Jeff

    EAC6FF52-7B60-4E0C-B1F4-840CAE824325.jpg

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  8. #7
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    I banished my cars to the great outdoors while construction is underway! Which do you think my fav car is?

  9. #8
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    I covered my body with a UV protective tarp and sit it outside. I only have half of a 24'x20' garage to work in. The other half is full of parts and tools with a 2' wide walkway. It does have a 15' ceiling allowing me a 4 post lift, a 1 ton gantry, and overhead storage on the other side from the lift.

    It is very tight to work in.
    My Type 65 Coupe: Ordered May 27, 2021. Arrived November 19, 2021.
    I would like to treat my gas pedal as a binary operator. It would be nice to get the cooperation of everyone in front of me.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    The chassis minus the body will roll through the double door opening (my old place had a big workshop adjoining the garage and I would often roll full chassis through the double doors). The body can live outside…my buddy Aaron has his Coupe body and nose screwed to the wood deck off of his living room while we build the rest of the car. His wife is VERY understanding!


    Jeff

    EAC6FF52-7B60-4E0C-B1F4-840CAE824325.jpg
    That seems like a likely solution. Never measured mine naked, but with the body off it sure feels a lot more petite. Without wheels and tires and and on a chassis dolly even better I bet.

  11. #10
    Namrups's Avatar
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    Hung mine from the ceiling. Walls are ten feet. Peak is 14 feet. Nose is up against the wall standing on end. Garage is 20 x 22.

    Scott Pregont
    Present build: 65 Daytona Coupe #393 - Forte 427 EFI crate w/TKX 2.87/ .81 - Ordered 11/16/21 - Delivered 6/23/2022
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  12. #11
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    It’s good to hear how people are dealing with building one with real life constraints. It’s much easier when you have a dedicated 30x40 outbuilding but trying to fit it in with the normal mix of vans and bikes, etc. is maybe part of the fun? Anyone interested in a 2004 911 Turbo with 6 speed and sport seats? I’m ready to order! ��

  13. #12
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    I suggest placing your order now, as the lead time on these kits are ~8 months. If you are planning on buying Blueprint engine/trans for the kit, that is even worse.

    i am planning on keeping the shell outside (not sure exposed to the elements or under a car cover yet).
    Last edited by nick729; 07-27-2022 at 07:14 AM.

  14. #13
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    Thanks Nick, I did talk with them a few days ago and they said they're delivering late Feb-early March if ordered now so that seems to match up. Lots of things going on right now and I wish their ordering form had more info to help you decide which ways to go. I think I need a little more thought on what I want out of this car because that dictates driveshaft choice and rear end selection, etc. Everyone goes huge engine and beefy transmission but if I'm really honest with myself, I think I want a driver (as much as one of these can be). That would mean 300-350 hp 5.0L with a T5, no? How stiff/notchy is the TKO/TKX? How much would I notice a solid axle vs. independent rear? I'm not a garage queen type of person and I don't go to the track. I'd love to be able to drive it and not worry about it (and other people doing dumb things, or it overheating, or needing super special care, etc). I'll likely end up building more than one of these so what I presume is the first one I'd plan to build more simply since I'm not a big fabricator (ran a shop for several years and did a lot of mechanic work for the last 20 but no body or fab).

  15. #14
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    gtrag94 right there with you on all of the things you mention. I placed my order two months ago (january delivery) and still trying to figure out how to configure it. So I will be following the comments here!

    I am really stuck on the rear IRS vs. Solid Axle and not just from a cost stand point. There seems to be positives and negatives with both options (at least from my research). However on resale there seems to be a consensus that the IRS is the way to go and it sounds like you will be headed in that direction as you may build more than one. Or you have the ability to have more than one FFR car and it is a Moog point. Like anything though, you can spend as little or as much as you want and lots of choices to make. Like they say....First World Problems!

    I would say if you are serious to put the deposit down to get a place in line. You only risk $250 if something were to change between now and 10 days or so before your car is ready.

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