The race is on - Namrups 65 Daytona Coupe build

[burchfieldb]

Like many others I have never attempted a project like this and am grateful to to other builders that have detailed their builds. I am paying it forward by detailing my build as well in the hopes it will help anyone else.

I am also very grateful for the amount of time everyone in this community takes to detail things out for others to learn and plan to pay it forward as well, once I recieve my coupe in Octoberish time frame.

On an unrelated note, what is everyone's thoughts on Mustang style gas tank vs something like a Fuel Safe fuel cell?

[Namrups]

Using a fuel cell never crossed my mind. I am going with the kit supplied tank and possibly a drop trunk. Haven't decided on that one yet. This might be a good question to start a fresh link on.

[rhk118]

I am also very grateful for the amount of time everyone in this community takes to detail things out for others to learn and plan to pay it forward as well, once I recieve my coupe in Octoberish time frame.

On an unrelated note, what is everyone's thoughts on Mustang style gas tank vs something like a Fuel Safe fuel cell?

My understanding on fuel cells is they need bladder replacement every X number of years and are $$$, and if you're tracking then great do it, but if not tracking then nothing better then old reliable gas tank.

[Namrups]

Weekend build update

Had a busy weekend. On Saturday I met with the Upstate Cobra Club in Lake George NY. There were a dozen or more roadsters (not just FF) and the one FF coupe. (you can see it way in the back) I was lucky enough to be able to ride shotgun in the coupe! We spent 4 hours driving the backroads in the Adirondack mountains. What a blast.


Sunday was a local Mopar show put on by a local Dodge dealer that I also attended with the Challenger.

I was able to get some work done on the coupe. I completed fitting and drilling the panels for the interior.


Still waiting on a lot of the suspension parts so the next step in the book is the gas tank. I installed the in-tank fuel pump, (upgraded unit as described earlier in the thread) the fuel level indicator and the upgraded Breeze big vent kit. I did have to snip a little of the opening to get the in-tank fuel pump installed. Everything else went as described in the book and with the Breeze instruction manual.

[Namrups]

Also installed the genuine Ford fill tube gasket. I also cut the fill tube as described in the manual and set it aside for installation later in the build.


With the help of some friends we mocked up the tank in the chassis. AS shown below I did not have to use longer bolts as other have had to do.




I was also able to mock up the location of the Trick Flow fuel filter before calling it quits for the night.

[rhk118]

Looking great Scott! Like your method of "fitting" the trick flow there. Did you need to flatten the seams/tabs on the gas tank to install (I think they are in the back?)?

[Namrups]

Looking great Scott! Like your method of "fitting" the trick flow there. Did you need to flatten the seams/tabs on the gas tank to install (I think they are in the back?)?

Yes I did have to flatten the edges. Two in the back and one in the front. I also agree with what Paul did and ordered some 1/8" foam to put between the tank and the frame to keep it from possibly rattling or scraping. I will apply that when I put the tank in for good.

[Namrups]

One step forward, two steps back

Day 20

One step forward

During the last couple of days, missing most of the suspension parts, I decided to move ahead and start working on the pedal box. I painted the upper mount and the two switch clips and installed the genuine GM switches, not the FF ones.


I mocked up the pedal box in the car and found that the cross brace might be off a little.


My solution is to use a washer to fill the void so that I don't put undue stress on the bracket of the pedal box. If anyone see's an issue with this solution please speak up.


One step back

Decided to take a step back and work on the top panels of the foot boxes. I wanted to be able to get into both side so I decided to make them removable. (Thanks Paul)

The full panel as supplied by FF.


I only wanted to make part of it removable because some of it is under the body cowl. The ruler shows the location of my cut.

[Namrups]

I cut the panel with a Dremel cut off wheel.


The plan was to add a brace that will be attached to the fixed piece and support the removable piece. I picked up a strip of 1/16" x 1 1/2" x 36"aluminum at the local hardware store and cut it to fit.


Drilled the pop rivet holes in both the fixed piece and the support strip.


Painted the support strip.


Panels finished. Very pleased with the outcome.

[Nigel Allen]

Neat job!

[Namrups]

Second step back

Was notified yesterday that FF was sending 4 boxes totaling 210 pounds! Arrived this morning.

Steering rack!


Front spindles.


Rear spindles and hubs


And the rear diff!


And yes, most of the fluid had leaked out of the diff. What a mess.

I also received 3/8" and 3/16" SS tubing from Summit.


Now I can go all the way back to the beginning of the build manual and start all over. Can't say I don't have anything to do now.

[Blitzboy54]

I love receiving parts

[Namrups]

After a very long wait I received my harness today!


Spending the next ten days on a staycation with my daughter. Not sure what kind of progress I'll have.

[cgundermann]

You are trucking along Scott! You go - looking fantastic!

Chris

[Namrups]

You are trucking along Scott! You go - looking fantastic!

Chris

Thanks Chris!

[Namrups]

The staycation with my daughter is going great. As she is a night owl and likes to sleep till noon, it has given me time to work on a few items. The painting of the suspension parts is going good and pics will follow soon. I have ground down the mold seams on the rear spindles and will have those pics after painting also. I cut off the piece per the manual and need to go buy a 5/8" drill to drill out the hole.

I fabricated a piece to use to press out the existing studs in the rear hubs. Same idea as edwardb. Made from a 1" pipe nipple.


Used my vice to press the existing studs out.


The existing studs had a flat side to clear the hub edge.


The replacement studs do not so I had to grind a flat edge for that clearance.


I had purchased a wheel stud installer to use with a washer and lug nut. It worked great.

[Namrups]

Lug installer setup.


I am using 1" spacers on the rear. The replacement studs are to long and need to be cut down after being installed.


Spacer set in place shows clearance of the replacement studs.


I have also started to print the alignment spacers for the NRG removable steering wheel unit.


As a side note ..... to pay it forward for anyone that does not have access to a 3d printer, I can print the alignment spacers for you. I ask that, as a minimum, you cover the cost of shipping via USPS. PM me your address and I will check with the post office to get a cost. My printer takes about 5 hours to print the two pieces. I am not putting a price on these. Just send me what you think they are worth to you.

[Jacob McCrea]

Looking very clean and tidy. As an old friend liked to say, "that's the kind of leadership we're looking for."

[Namrups]

First major screw-up!

I was sitting in the garage in 90 degree heat painting my rear hubs and spindles when all of a sudden that light in my head lit up and almost blinded me! I had gone thru the process of changing the studs in the hubs and cutting them down to fit the 1" spacer. Measuring multiple times and picturing everything in my head because I was missing brake parts so I couldn't actually mock it up. Thought I was good to go. Wrong! Because I didn't have the Wilwood brakes I totally forgot that they would be between the hub and the spacer. I cut the studs too short!!! Will have to order new studs and repeat that process again.

[Namrups]

Worked on getting the steering rack installed. Got it bolted into the frame without issue. Did not use offset bushings as others have used. Turned rack all the way to the right and marked the location. Turned it all the way to the left counting the turns and marked that location. two and one half turns lock to lock. Turning the rack back one and one quarter turns and marking the location marks the center of the rack.


Now that the rack was centered I wanted to verify that the rack was centered in the chassis. I mounted a straightedge to the frame in the same location on each side.


I verified that the rack was straight and level and measured to the start of the threads. The measurement was the same on both sides verifying the rack was also centered in the chassis.


Set the overall measurement from tie rod to tie rod, based on the manual, keeping the same number of threads on each side.

The front spindles and hubs are next.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You're doing good Scott!

Jeff

[Namrups]

You're doing good Scott!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. Moral support is always welcome.

[Blitzboy54]

First major screw-up!

I was sitting in the garage in 90 degree heat painting my rear hubs and spindles when all of a sudden that light in my head lit up and almost blinded me! I had gone thru the process of changing the studs in the hubs and cutting them down to fit the 1" spacer. Measuring multiple times and picturing everything in my head because I was missing brake parts so I couldn't actually mock it up. Thought I was good to go. Wrong! Because I didn't have the Wilwood brakes I totally forgot that they would be between the hub and the spacer. I cut the studs too short!!! Will have to order new studs and repeat that process again.

I did that kind of thing so many times


Good news is the second time you will really be great at it.

[Namrups]

I did that kind of thing so many times


Good news is the second time you will really be great at it.

Simple screw up. I know I will probably make more. Hopefully nothing too costly.

[Namrups]

Day 30

Ready to continue on the front end. Latest update on brakes is October so this will then go on the "to be completed" list.

[Wishfull]

I love the red.

[Namrups]

I love the red.

More to come .....

[Namrups]

Before and after teaser

Rear spindles and hubs before prep.


And after.


PS front suspension almost complete.


Sharp eyes will notice that the tie rod is not fastened. I have misplaced (lost!) the castle nut. Also noticeable is the hub nut is loose. I do not have a socket that big. Back to the store!

[Namrups]

My neighbor stopped by on his way home from work today to check things out. Took advantage of it and between him, some ratchet straps and the engine hoist we installed the diff! It was challenging but not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Need to be nice to his wife the next time I see her.

[Namrups]

Day 33

Now that the diff is in and torqued I wanted to lay out and prep the rest of the rear suspension.


Most everything is there except on the upper control arms. I'm missing the 1 1/4" lock nuts and the 4 1/2" mounting bolts that attach the UCA to the spindle. Also waiting on the CV axles.

[Namrups]

Day 35

During the prep stage I tried to fit the pieces together and found that they wouldn't.

I measured the spindle at 45mm.


The bar measured 43mm.


Using the threaded rod process I spread the ears to 47mm.


When the threaded rod was removed the ears relaxed to the required 45mm and slid into place without force.


Mocked up the passengers side today. Look good. Tomorrow I will build the shocks and mock up the drivers side.

[Namrups]

It looks more like a car every day.


Couldn't resist ....

[slarson]

Wow! Tremendous progress Scott, nice work!

[Namrups]

Received my wheels today.

[Namrups]

Day 38

Finished installing the rear suspension including the sway bar. Had issues with the sway bar that I will explain later. Still missing a few parts so it's not all torqued down yet.



Next up is fuel and brake lines.

[Namrups]

A BIG HEADS UP!!

I'm am not sure if this is a heads up for the roadster as well but if you are building the coupe with IRS and rear sway bar pay attention!!

What I did..... on page 134 of the manual is the installation of the Toe Adjustment Bar commonly referred to as the toe link. The manual states that "If using the sway bar option, pass the bolt through the frame mount bracket when installing the toe arms". The picture shows the bracket in place. I am using the sway bar so I dug out the brackets and installed them as shown. I was not planning on removing the toe link so I torqued it to spec. After I had completed installing the rest of the suspension I decided to also install the sway bars even though I was missing the rod ends for both front and rear. Those are out in the open and can be added later. The manual does not have the install instructions for the sway bars but I was able to find them on the FF site listed under the roadster section. After pulling everything out of the sway bar box I noticed that in the bag of hardware for the rear sway bar there were 5/8" bolts. When I installed the toe link I did notice that because of the added sway bar bracket the bolt looked a little short but not having read any issues about it nor seeing anything in the manual I accepted it as ok. Lesson learned. The new bolts are longer and allow the nut to seat as it should so they had to be replaced. As you can see, by the following 2 pics of the replaced bolt, there is very little room with the rest of the suspension installed! It was a bear getting the original bolts out and the new ones in and torqued. One to two clicks on the ratchet was the max.
Looking from the bottom

Looking from the top


WHEN ADDING A SWAY BAR TO IRS, MOUNT THE SWAY BAR BRACKET WITH THE NEW LONGER BOLTS WHEN INSTALLING THE TOE LINK! Don't do what I did....not fun.

[edwardb]

A BIG HEADS UP!!

I'm am not sure if this is a heads up for the roadster as well but if you are building the coupe with IRS and rear sway bar pay attention!!

What I did..... on page 134 of the manual is the installation of the Toe Adjustment Bar commonly referred to as the toe link. The manual states that "If using the sway bar option, pass the bolt through the frame mount bracket when installing the toe arms". The picture shows the bracket in place. I am using the sway bar so I dug out the brackets and installed them as shown. I was not planning on removing the toe link so I torqued it to spec. After I had completed installing the rest of the suspension I decided to also install the sway bars even though I was missing the rod ends for both front and rear. Those are out in the open and can be added later. The manual does not have the install instructions for the sway bars but I was able to find them on the FF site listed under the roadster section. After pulling everything out of the sway bar box I noticed that in the bag of hardware for the rear sway bar there were 5/8" bolts. When I installed the toe link I did notice that because of the added sway bar bracket the bolt looked a little short but not having read any issues about it nor seeing anything in the manual I accepted it as ok. Lesson learned. The new bolts are longer and allow the nut to seat as it should so they had to be replaced. As you can see, by the following 2 pics of the replaced bolt, there is very little room with the rest of the suspension installed! It was a bear getting the original bolts out and the new ones in and torqued. One to two clicks on the ratchet was the max.

WHEN ADDING A SWAY BAR TO IRS, MOUNT THE SWAY BAR BRACKET WITH THE NEW LONGER BOLTS WHEN INSTALLING THE TOE LINK! Don't do what I did....not fun.

Good caution. Agree, easy to miss. The Factory Five instructions website (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/) is a good source and should always be checked. Especially for options not typically shown in the build manual. I've frequently found what I needed there. Although to be fair, the IRS sway bar instructions you found on the website, in addition to showing the longer bolts on the exploded diagram, does say "Use the new included 5/8 ”x 2.50” bolt for the Toe link." Hate to point it out, and not being critical. We've all missed things. And paid frequently with extra work. Part of the experience, right? Your build is looking great. The red suspension is cool.

[Namrups]

Good caution. Agree, easy to miss. The Factory Five instructions website (https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/) is a good source and should always be checked. Especially for options not typically shown in the build manual. I've frequently found what I needed there. Although to be fair, the IRS sway bar instructions you found on the website, in addition to showing the longer bolts on the exploded diagram, does say "Use the new included 5/8 ”x 2.50” bolt for the Toe link." Hate to point it out, and not being critical. We've all missed things. And paid frequently with extra work. Part of the experience, right? You're build is looking great. The red suspension is cool.

Thanks for the encouragement Paul. I really appreciate it. The red has come out even better than I had envisioned. Building these is like a chess match. You always need to be thinking moves ahead trying not to miss things like this. Even after reading your thread along with many others multiple times it's still easy for a first time builder, like myself, to miss stuff.

[Namrups]

Played around with the brake and clutch reservoirs today.

Option 1


Option 2


I'm leaning towards option 2. If anyone sees any issues with either option or has an option 3 please speak up!

[edwardb]

Played around with the brake and clutch reservoirs today.

Option 1


Option 2


I'm leaning towards option 2. If anyone sees any issues with either option or has an option 3 please speak up!

Even with your SBF 427 (as opposed to the Coyote in mine, where neither option would work) anything on the outside of that frame rail will probably need to be moved out of the way to get the engine in and out. Plus (maybe) kind of in the way for maintenance, e.g. headers, spark plugs, etc. You wouldn't regret having them all inside the two frame rails and out of the engine compartment. But probably not possible with those individual mounts. Hopefully other non-Coyote builders can provide some feedback.