The race is on - Namrups 65 Daytona Coupe build

[rhk118]

Christmas in August!

Received 5 boxes from FF this morning! Still a couple of major items like the CV axles, headers and the rear glass still outstanding but the rest is small items like nuts and bolts. The list is getting smaller.

I am enjoying the parts arriving from time to time, have to admit. If you were doing a 302 I'd send you my headers as my engine is a ways off. Axles are the big thing for me as I really don't want to put any suspension together until I receive them.

[Namrups]

I am enjoying the parts arriving from time to time, have to admit. If you were doing a 302 I'd send you my headers as my engine is a ways off. Axles are the big thing for me as I really don't want to put any suspension together until I receive them.

I've mocked up the rear suspension just finger tight. At least that way I can run the fuel and brake lines knowing what goes where. When the axles do arrive I can tighten everything up and call it complete.

[Namrups]

Steering shaft installed today.




I can now work on the Russ Thompson directional and the NRG removable wheel adapter.

[Namrups]

NRG Removable Steering Wheel

This update will be a little long. I know that this has been covered to various degrees in other threads. Here is my version:

Note: I am using the Russ Thompson turn signal mod so I had sent the steering boss to him and he did his thing and returned it to me. That is my starting point with this update.

There are two additional items that I am using to help me with this mod. The first is the alignment disks that I 3D printed and the second is a transfer punch set that I had for woodworking.



The first step is to attach the part of the NRG unit, that is mounted on the steering shaft, to the steering boss returned by Russ. The screws that Russ provides to attach the steering wheel can be reused but the holes in the steering boss need to be counter sunk so that the screws fit flush. Use an 82 degree countersink.


The screws are to long and need to be cut off to be flush.


I am not using the center horn button on the steering wheel so the horn hookup needs to be removed from the NRG unit. Two small screws hold it in place.


To be continued

[Namrups]

Removable steering part 2

The NRG piece needs to sit flush on the steering boss so the area marked by the arrow needs to be removed.


This can be accomplished a number of ways. I chose to remove the piece from the NRG base. It is held in by 2 screws.


Beware of the spring!!! There is a small spring under this pin.


Slowly tilt the piece away from the pin until the pressure is off the spring and the piece can be removed.


After removing the piece cut off that back so that it is flush.


To be continued

[Namrups]

Removable steering part 3

Reverse the above steps to put the unit back together. Use the smaller of the two alignment pieces to line up the NRG unit to the steering boss. This will keep the NRG unit centered on the boss. This is where I used the punch to center punch the new holes that need to be drilled.


The NRG unit supplies M5-.80 cap screws to attach it to the boss. I used a 4.2mm drill and a 5.0-.80 tap.


That part of the NRG unit can now be attached to the steering boss.

The part of the NRG unit that attaches to the steering wheel also needs the horn button to be removed the same as the other piece.


It also has to be trimmed to fit flush on the steering boss.
Before

After


To be continued

[Namrups]

Removable steering part 4

There is an inner ring that needs to be removed to use the alignment piece. Not sure what it is for or if it's needed for this application.


Insert the alignment piece into the NRG piece and then into the steering wheel.




Once the new holes are drilled in the steering wheel they have to be counter sunk to accept the 5.0-.80 screws (Not supplied by NRG - need to be bought separately). Use a 100 degree counter sink for metric screws.


To be continued

[Namrups]

Removable steering wheel 5

The NRG piece can now be attached to the steering wheel. This mod is now complete.

[Blitzboy54]

Have you fitted the cover over it yet? Curious what it looks like.

[Namrups]

Have you fitted the cover over it yet? Curious what it looks like.

Looks good:

[Blitzboy54]

Outstanding!

[Namrups]

Quick update

Just got off the phone with Mike Forte. My engine was just dyno'ed and will be crated up ready for pickup in the next few days. Boss 427 crate based on 351 block bored out to 460 cu in. 501.7 hp and 580.7 lbs ft of torque.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Quick update

Just got off the phone with Mike Forte. My engine was just dyno'ed and will be crated up ready for pickup in the next few days. Boss 427 crate based on 351 block bored out to 460 cu in. 501.7 hp and 580.7 lbs ft of torque.

I guess you’re following that “Go big or go home” philosophy of car building. What tires are you planning to use to try to hook that up (note that “try” is the key word in this sentence)?

Jeff

[Namrups]

I guess you’re following that “Go big or go home” philosophy of car building. What tires are you planning to use to try to hook that up (note that “try” is the key word in this sentence)?

Jeff

BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S if I can find them. 275/35 R18 front and 315/30 R18 rear.

[Namrups]

Forte just sent me the dyno video:

[Jeff Kleiner]

BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S if I can find them. 275/35 R18 front and 315/30 R18 rear.

You might also consider Falken RT660s. They have kind of pushed the Rival S and the later Rival S 1.5 off of the top of the hill in the super 200 treadwear wars.

Jeff

[Namrups]

You might also consider Falken RT660s. They have kind of pushed the Rival S and the later Rival S 1.5 off of the top of the hill in the super 200 treadwear wars.

Jeff

Thanks for the info Jeff. I'll look into them.

[Namrups]

Another screwup!

Worked on my 3/16" SS brake lines today and screwed up again. Wanted to install the piece that goes from the DS front brake to the PS front brake. Pulled out my Eastwood flaring tool and tried my luck. The first couple were complete failures. After talking with Paul I used a few pointers that he suggested and was able to make good flares. (I hope) Spent a couple of hours bending the tubing and after getting it to fit I flared it.


And then realized that I never put the fittings on!

Started from scratch and managed to make the second one right. Found the aluminum P-clamps at Racetronix at a very reasonable price. Part number for the 3/16" ones is PLC-03 and for the 3/8" ones PLC-06. Drilled and tapped the frame for these. I think they look good.

[edwardb]

And then realized that I never put the fittings on!

Yeah, none of us have ever done that.

[Namrups]

Yeah, none of us have ever done that.

I'm in good company then!!

[Namrups]

Spending the week with my daughter before she has to go back to school. Did take the time to pick up my engine/transmission from Mike Forte!

[GT_Rich]

What intake is that? What are your plans to get the needed hood clearance with a 9.5" deck engine?

[Joel Hauser]

Whoa, Scott, that's a lot of motor! Looks great. Did they put it on the dyno? Let me know if you need to borrow my engine hoist, or if you need some extra muscle.

[Namrups]

Whoa, Scott, that's a lot of motor! Looks great. Did they put it on the dyno? Let me know if you need to borrow my engine hoist, or if you need some extra muscle.

Dyno results: 501.7 hp 580.7 ft lbs torque

Is your hoist a 2 ton hoist? I have a 1 ton here and it isn't going to cut it. Both Dan and Pat have hoists also that I can borrow.

[Namrups]

What intake is that? What are your plans to get the needed hood clearance with a 9.5" deck engine?

Mike Forte says it will clear. If not I may need to do a little body work or get a different air cleaner.

[rhk118]

Drool Scott! Awesome man. If you run into fitment issues Levy Racing has shorter engine mounts that may help. Problem then would be headers, but I believe Georgie from GAS-N (and/or Mike Forte) have the measurements and can make a set for the lower mounts. I ordered a set of the lowered mounts "just in case" for my build from Levy Racing over 5 months ago and they are still backordered for an idea of timing...that engine will be in your car sooner than that!

[Joel Hauser]

I have the 1 ton Harbor Freight folding shop crane and their cheap leveler. I installed the engine and transmission together. My engine is the iron block 4.6L SOHC. I think I'm using a T-45 transmission. I don't know the combined weight, but the shop crane worked well for me. Jesse used it too.
Joel

[Namrups]

I have the 1 ton Harbor Freight folding shop crane and their cheap leveler. I installed the engine and transmission together. My engine is the iron block 4.6L SOHC. I think I'm using a T-45 transmission. I don't know the combined weight, but the shop crane worked well for me. Jesse used it too.
Joel

The one I have here is also a 1 ton. Don't know if it has enough reach for the coupe.

[Namrups]

Drool Scott! Awesome man. If you run into fitment issues Levy Racing has shorter engine mounts that may help. Problem then would be headers, but I believe Georgie from GAS-N (and/or Mike Forte) have the measurements and can make a set for the lower mounts. I ordered a set of the lowered mounts "just in case" for my build from Levy Racing over 5 months ago and they are still backordered for an idea of timing...that engine will be in your car sooner than that!

I will keep this mind. Thanks for the info.

[edwardb]

The issue other builders have reported with the 1-ton shop crane is it has to be fully extended. Which may not be quite enough in some cases. Plus I've seen pictures of guys having to stand on the back of it to keep it from tipping forward when extended that far. Obviously that will vary depending on the engine/trans combination and weight. If the 1-ton is the only option, make sure to have enough help and be careful. I saw these reports back in the day and held out for the 2-ton H-F model. Has served me well and appreciate the extra margin it provides.

[Namrups]

The issue other builders have reported with the 1-ton shop crane is it has to be fully extended. Which may not be quite enough in some cases. Plus I've seen pictures of guys having to stand on the back of it to keep it from tipping forward when extended that far. Obviously that will vary depending on the engine/trans combination and weight. If the 1-ton is the only option, make sure to have enough help and be careful. I saw these reports back in the day and held out for the 2-ton H-F model. Has served me well and appreciate the extra margin it provides.

I appreciate your insight. When using it to take the engine off the truck we had it fully extended in the "1/4" hole (500 lbs max) so my guess is we were over the design limits and we had to shimmy the engine it all the way to the back of the truck because it didn't reach the lift plate. I will plan on borrowing (buying if I must) a 2 ton just to be on the safe side.

[Namrups]

What intake is that? What are your plans to get the needed hood clearance with a 9.5" deck engine?

The intake is a Weiand 8023 Ford Stealth.

[GT_Rich]

The intake is a Weiand 8023 Ford Stealth.

According to Summit Racing's specs, that is 1/4" shorter than the Performer RPM I am trying to use. Levy told me that I would need drop mounts and a drop base to clear. I bought drop mounts and picked up a round air cleaner with a drop base and open top. Still waiting on my chassis to drop it in.

[Namrups]

According to the manual, this is the transmission mount for a TKO transmission. I have a TKX and the holes do not line up.


I have sent an e-mail to FF but I know they are down for the week. Does anyone here know if there is a different mounting plate for the TKX or do I have to drills my own holes in this one and try to make it work?

[Blitzboy54]

I appreciate your insight. When using it to take the engine off the truck we had it fully extended in the "1/4" hole (500 lbs max) so my guess is we were over the design limits and we had to shimmy the engine it all the way to the back of the truck because it didn't reach the lift plate. I will plan on borrowing (buying if I must) a 2 ton just to be on the safe side.

Let me know when you want to drop it in. I am available. My schedule free's up generally after Labor Day so I'll be popping over

[Indy Shu]

Per the manual the left side of the mount in your pic is the front. How far off is it? I found that there is some play in the plate so leave the bolts loose until you have the transmission bolts in.
hth.

[Namrups]

Let me know when you want to drop it in. I am available. My schedule free's up generally after Labor Day so I'll be popping over

I have my daughter thru labor day so not to much building going on. Still trying to put an hour or two in the morning before she rolls out of bed. Now that I have the CV's I will be looking at getting the brakes bled after labor day. Your help would be appreciated. Just send me a text when your schedule allows it. I'm not going anywhere.

[Namrups]

Per the manual the left side of the mount in your pic is the front. How far off is it? I found that there is some play in the plate so leave the bolts loose until you have the transmission bolts in.
hth.

My bad. I was looking at using it wrong. It should work fine.

[Namrups]

Day 68

Was on a staycation with my daughter all last week and she is joining me again tomorrow thru Labor Day so I have not worked on the coupe as much as I would have liked. Having said that I did try to get a little done in the mornings before she rolled out of bed. Tom, a friend from work came by today and we were able to take a bite out of things.

Completed the installation of the brake lines.

Front:




Rear:

[Namrups]

Rear cont:


We were also able to get the fuel lines clipped in place:



We then took on the e-brake. Ran into two issues here. One of these I have seen in other threads one I have not. The first issue which I have not seen is with the IRS brakes and the DA Koni shocks. There is a 5/8" bolt that is needed to bolt a bracket to the e-brake.

A 3/4" bolt is too short. Not enough threads for the nut to lock on properly.


A 1" bolt is too long. The nut would hit the spring.