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Senior Member
How to Install Rear Quick Jack Bolts Once Tank and Trunk Floor are Installed
Hi - What's the latest and best method to install the rear quick jack bolts once the tank and trunk floor are already installed? How does Factory Five do it when no one is looking?
I just mounted the body for the first time, getting ready to fit / gap the doors, hood, and trunk lid.
Thanks,
#145999
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Senior Member
Hate to tell you but you might need to drop the tank. While you’re at it, look up the “Kleiner mod” which uses a nut coupler to allow you to install quick jack bolts without dropping the tank in the future
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
egchewy79
Hate to tell you but you might need to drop the tank. While you’re at it, look up the “Kleiner mod” which uses a nut coupler to allow you to install quick jack bolts without dropping the tank in the future
Surely after hundreds / thousands of kits sold, Factory Five would have put a small detail like this in their latest instruction manual, yes? I've seen the Kleiner mod, but before I head that route I'm hoping to hear back from a tech at Factory Five to understand how they do it.
Thanks,
32J
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
32J
Surely after hundreds / thousands of kits sold, Factory Five would have put a small detail like this in their latest instruction manual, yes? I've seen the Kleiner mod, but before I head that route I'm hoping to hear back from a tech at Factory Five to understand how they do it.
Thanks,
32J
You can still do the kleiner mod after the fuel tank is installed. A 1/2" bolt will fit on the passenger side upper (the tightest point). Bit of a contortion act to do it but can be done (had to do it myself). I really do recommend the mod as it allows you an additional point to move the body in and out. Especially when mounting the trunk lid. As I had to trim less because I moved the body to the bottom lip. Just some food for thought.
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Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
Ditto On The Kleiner Rear Bumper Mount Modification!
................It Simply Works & Works Well!
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32J thanked for this post
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
rthomas98
You can still do the kleiner mod after the fuel tank is installed. A 1/2" bolt will fit on the passenger side upper (the tightest point). Bit of a contortion act to do it but can be done (had to do it myself). I really do recommend the mod as it allows you an additional point to move the body in and out. Especially when mounting the trunk lid. As I had to trim less because I moved the body to the bottom lip. Just some food for thought.
I'm leaning towards the mod. (Would still like to hear from FFR tech, though.) Question: for the 7/16 bolt, does a 1/2" shank length offer enough 'bite' for the coupler, after it passes through the mounting plate, sound mat (in my case), and some carpeting? I suppose I can buy 1" long bolts and then hack them shorter if I have trouble passing them through from the tank side. I'm not Andre the Giant, but I don't have baby hands, either.
Thanks,
32J
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Senior Member
I suppose you can put a length of all thread through and double nut on the back side as well, or tack weld the nut to the thread if you have a welder.
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I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?
The size of the bolts makes me think this is purely cosmetic...
Craig C
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
cc2Arider
I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?
The size of the bolts makes me think this is purely cosmetic...
Craig C
They are cosmetic.
MK3 Challenge Car, Boss 347, Sniper 2 EFI
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Senior Member
cosmetic, but besides the windshield and roll bar, are really the only thing holding the body to the frame.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
cc2Arider
I've been wondering for several months now...does anyone use the quick jacks at the rear (or the front) for real lifting?Craig C
As they come equipped from FFR..NO. Additional reinforcement to the frame is req'd, and will require welding. This may give you an idea of what is required at the front.
m_DSC08602.jpg
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
32J
I'm leaning towards the mod. (Would still like to hear from FFR tech, though.) Question: for the 7/16 bolt, does a 1/2" shank length offer enough 'bite' for the coupler, after it passes through the mounting plate, sound mat (in my case), and some carpeting? I suppose I can buy 1" long bolts and then hack them shorter if I have trouble passing them through from the tank side. I'm not Andre the Giant, but I don't have baby hands, either.
Thanks,
32J
The coupler actually ends up against the frame when tight not the aluminum/carpet/sound deadener etc. It will fit through the hole already in panel. So more then enough room with a 1/2" length bolt.
Here is a link to the Kleiner Mod. Easier to see the pictures. He uses 1/2" long bolts as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...22-Kleiner-Mod
Last edited by rthomas98; 10-11-2022 at 02:23 PM.
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Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
rthomas98
Hey, thanks for posting that! Saved me from having to dig it up
Jeff
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Senior Member
So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....
FFR 5385 MKIII. 302, 3-Link. All legal in MA 1/7/2012.
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The bolts install from the outside of the body in....................... So what am I missing? We are talking about quick jacks and NOT bumpers, correct? You can get to every nut from the inside. The upper passenger side is accessible from the fuel pump access cover and the driver's side you can reach over the top of the tank from the side of the car. Bottom two are easily reached up from the bottom. I've built dozens of these cars and never had an issue getting quick jacks installed.
Now bumpers/over riders????? That's a horse of a different color
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Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
Scott L
So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....
Jeff/Captain O
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Scott L
So how many on this thread know the legend of Captain O-Ring.....
I do not know this story. (sitting in front of a fire awaiting a grand tale of gallantry and magic)
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
rthomas98
The coupler actually ends up against the frame when tight not the aluminum/carpet/sound deadener etc. It will fit through the hole already in panel. So more then enough room with a 1/2" length bolt.
Here is a link to the Kleiner Mod. Easier to see the pictures. He uses 1/2" long bolts as well.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...22-Kleiner-Mod
I picked-up some some hardware and went with 1" long bolts to start. If they're too long for me to maneuver in through the back-side of the mounting plates, I can cut the length down as needed.
Thanks,
32J
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Super Moderator
I used a crowfoot wrench and a number of extensions on a ratchet.
Ray
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
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David aka Ducky2009
I used the couplers per the Jeff mod. I installed bolts that ended approx half way through the coupling.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
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Originally Posted by
egchewy79
I suppose you can put a length of all thread through and double nut on the back side as well, or tack weld the nut to the thread if you have a welder.
This is what I did.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post315838
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It is possible to get to them from underneath...
Did it for years.... but considering the rare need for access it is not a big deal
But when I did the drop floor, I added the fuel tank access plate on the pass side, and the pass nuts are easily available through that access hole.
On the driver side, I drilled one inch holes through the dropped rear wall for access and then covered the holes with cap plugs.
MK2 #3319.... On the road since 2002 with a lot of upgrades