Before I get too far into this, can anyone tell me is some type of garage floor lift required or just a nice to have option when building a 289 or 427 kit? Most every video I have watched on YouTube the builder has a lift.
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Before I get too far into this, can anyone tell me is some type of garage floor lift required or just a nice to have option when building a 289 or 427 kit? Most every video I have watched on YouTube the builder has a lift.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
No lift required but you want a low profile jack and jack stands.
X2 on the low profile jack. A long reach version is the go.
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
Planned on a lift but ran out of money for one. Jack stands and rollers worked for me. Lift may be in the cards at refund time. We will see.
Scott Pregont
Present build: 65 Daytona Coupe #393 - Forte 427 EFI crate w/TKX 2.87/ .81 - Ordered 11/16/21 - Delivered 6/23/2022
Location: Mechanicville, NY
Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...na-Coupe-build
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I am 64 years old, and have been building hot rods since the late 1970's's. I took two decades off in the late 1990's to raise a couple of boys then got back into it when they went to college. I have never had a hoist, but a couple of floor jacks and three sets of jack stands does the job well. Most of my projects start as a bare frames and 2-4 saw horses actually work nice at that point to get the suspension, brake lines, fuel tank and lines, etc. mounted. When it is time to install the engine and transmission, it goes onto jack stands. Also, if you have a standard garage, the hoist can barely lift it over four feet before it get close to the ceiling, so you really cannot get under the car comfortably. Now if you have a pole building, a hoist would be a great investment.
I started with a frame dolly and jack stands. Once the engine went in the car, I was going up and down so much with the car that I decided to splurge on a quickjack 5000. By no means necessary but does make your life easier. Was much cheaper than other lift options and easy for low ceilings. The plus was it was portable so a lot of the time I would move them in the driveway for my other vehicles without having to move my build. as stated not necessary but a nice to have. Below is pic of the car during the build on the quickjacks to give you an idea of height and accessibility.
However I still used jack stands at times if I needed to access the transmission area. But using the quickjacks to set the car on them was much faster then jacking each corner.
I have a maxjax 2 post lift. I use it to lift the frame on and off the dolly. I normally work on jackstands and even use my Daytona Jack to lift it as well. The maxjax are removable but are in the way for normal building.
All excellent advice and greatly appreciated!
I was ready to buy the Quick Jacks also a few months ago, mainly for the routine maintenance on my daily drivers. While they would be good for rotating tires and brake service, they do severely restrict side access under the car. I see them being handy for assembling the chassis of a F5. My concern is do they go low enough? My son has a lowered car, and we still would have needed to drive his up on blocks to get the Quick Jacks under it. I decided to stick with floor jacks and stands.
Yes and quickjacks. My back would be significantly more sore if I didn't have the lift.
Can't beat it for the price and you can use it on your other vehicles.
FFR Roadster Delivered 9/16/21
Forte 427 Fuel Injected with TKX Transmission
Forte's Axle
I started with a wood dolly and then used jack stands once the engine was in - very doable. I decided to get a short length 4 post lift as my long-term parking solution. It has been a game changer and I wish I had gotten it earlier. I purchased a Triumph Classic NSS-8. It comes with a steel jack tray and there is an optional bridge jack. It is also has caster wheels so I can move it around if needed (not with car on it).
Mk4 Roadster #9974 - Picked Up 1/2021. Complete kit, Gen 2 Ford Coyote / TKX, IRS. Completed 9/2023
MK2 Roadster - 347 - Boss 302 Crate 4x2 Weber 44 IDFs
A lift is definitely not required but if you have the financial means and a garage that can accommodate one 100% worth the investment. Especially AFTER you finish the car, much more difficult to work on when the body is on and painted. You will be tinkering with this car for as long as you own it.
Build #9818 completed 04/2021 - Dart SBF 427, PF4 EFI, TKO600 Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...utton-head-mod
Build review video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6IAbo2sFt4&t=1111s My finished car: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...7&d=1638415131
As others have noted, plenty of folks have built their cars on jack stands. I've had lower back issues since my mid-20's so a lift was definitely in the "required" category for me. Even for tasks that don't require getting under the car, just being able to raise it to comfortable working height while standing vs. having to get down on hands and knees to do everything was hugely helpful to me.
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
As others have said, a lift is not necessary, but they sure are nice!! I am 70 and was 69 when I built my car. To me a lift was absolutely necessary. I couldn't have built it without it. Since completing the car, I have had the clutch and engine out and a lift sure makes things easier. I see guys crammed into a 1 1/2 car garage and I feel for them having to work in tight spaces. In my 20's I would have built the car outside in the grass. Things change when you get old....
FFR 9883 MKIV ,427 Windsor engine
TKX 5 speed, Three Link 3.55 gears
Power Steering, Leather Seats
18" Wheels and Tires, Drop Trunk
Fun Package
^^^ This. A lift isn't just for working under the car. In fact that's maybe what you'll use it for the least. It allows you to have whatever you're working on at a comfortable level throughout the build. I'm very lucky to have a garage shop with a high enough ceiling (just barely...) for a full height lift. But I had the shorter MaxJax lift at our previous house. You can't stand under it and work. Need to work while on a roller seat. Which is still better than being on your back. But the rest of the time, the lift height is plenty to have whatever you're working on up at a decent level. I too have back issues if I'm not careful. We won't talk about age...
X3 or whatever also on a low profile long reach floor jack. Mine is from HF (like many) and it's well used and has held up fine. Mine is grey. Now they come in other fancy colors.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Quickjacks are VERY useful
Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue