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Thread: 2006 donor headlight and DRL wiring HELP

  1. #1
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    2006 donor headlight and DRL wiring HELP

    All,
    I've been reading through the threads for this topic and want to tackle how to wire these correctly.

    Examples:
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-my-projectors
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...h-Auto-AC-HVAC

    I bought some 2- and 3-wire waterproof connectors to make the connections to the headlights, accent lights, and turn signals.

    I have a 2006 WRX wagon donor - the wiring guide in the attached pictures show the wiring diagrams for the high/low beam wiring along with my notes. Here's some of the items confusing me:
    1) I have nothing that shows what pin #6 is, but the wire looks the same as pin 5. I drew what my guess is, but it doesn't make sense because the LH headlight pin 5 will also activate the blue high-beam indicator light on the gauge cluster. Any ideas?
    2) because of item 1, does anyone know if the low beams will shut power if highs activate? I've seen the notes about the shutters and such with the new lights. I'll probably do the pin voltage check that Mechie3 posted to do, but I can't do that right away because I have some more grounding to do first.
    3) Is there a way to include the accent lights in the headlights for DRL, but at full brightness? They're already pretty dark and half-voltage may not show anything. Alternatively, how do others have them wired?

    IMG_20200719_175501.jpg IMG_20200719_175550.jpg

    Thanks everyone, this community is the best.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  2. #2
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    I think what is confusing you on the diagram are the internal wires between the high and low beam on the subaru lights. If the lights you are using are wired the same way, then you can use the subaru diagram, if they aren't wired that way, then you will have to make some modifications. What lights are you using?

  3. #3
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Ajzride, thanks. I did miss the part about the internal wiring, but that makes the extra pin 6 wire even more confusing. I will be using the FFR lights, so I need low beam power (with DRL) and high beam shutter with low beam still on.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  4. #4
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    1st Gen or 2nd Gen lights?

  5. #5
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    2nd gen.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  6. #6
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    Does anyone have instructions or diagrams for a Gen-II? If so I might can figure it out, I have Gen-I Lights.

  7. #7

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    After studying your 06 wiring post:

    On the donor, itt looks to me like the low beam is always on when lights are on, even when high beam is also on. The DRL cuts power during the daytime running by putting a resistor between ground and the low beam only. If you are keeping all the wiring shown, then I think you only need to wire the shutter motor to the high beam pins for the new style shutter based Hella lamps in the FFR kit (type II if you will)...

    For example, at lamp connector F125, wire the new lamp's bulb to pins 2 and 5 just as it was in the donor. The new lamp should still function as DRL and also be on for low and high beam modes, unless I am not reading the wiring diagram correctly. Next, connect the two wires for the new projector's shutter motor to the high beam pins 1 and 5, just like the high beam filament used to be going to the donor's high beam.

    Since the low beam should always be on in both low and high beam modes, the shutter motor is off in low beam and you project the lower portion of the new projector output. When high beam is turned on the shutter motor gets 12v and opens the projector to full "high" output.

    I'm not seeing where you have a pin 6, but the drawing should work per above if your system matches that wiring.

    For the accent lights, connect the negative lead for the accent lights to ground (bat negative). The positive lead to the F125 pin 5. When the headlights are on the accents will be on at full intensity. This is because the DRL resistor is inserted between ground and the bat negative side of the low beam headlight. You bypass that for the accent lights by tying those directly to ground, hence no current limiting resistor there.

    Repeat above for the other lamp at F126.

  8. #8
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Art,
    Thanks a ton! Your explanation makes perfect sense and clarifies what I had been thinking for a couple things (direct-wiring accent grounds, using pin 5 for both hi and low). You have helped massively with the explanation of the high-low wiring and activity. Pin 6 & wire doesn't show up in the drawings but exists in real life - that's what had me thrown for a bit.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  9. #9

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    Pin 6 on the F125, 126 are used only for HID version wiring. No clue if they are physically there for both versions but if you have a non HID donor for certain then I think we can say they build the two connectors the same even when 6 is not used. If you do have HID wiring it is different for sure and we need to revise the connection plan you would use.
    Last edited by aquillen; 07-21-2020 at 12:29 PM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    The wiring colors match the non-HID colors except for pin 6 being there. I am not sure if car had HIDs because wrecked donor had a headlight that looks HID, but wiring colors are all wrong and I dont know if the headlight actually worked.

    IMG_0262.jpg

    Is there a way to check for HID wiring, like connectivity between multiple grounds in HID wiring pins 2 and 3?
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  11. #11

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    aquillen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by octobersknight View Post
    Is there a way to check for HID wiring, like connectivity between multiple grounds in HID wiring pins 2 and 3?
    06 Impreza wiring shows both the HID and non HID versions next to each other in that section of diagrams.

    Color codes on the connectors can probably be trusted to decide:

    HID F125:
    1 WB
    2 B and this goes directly to ground
    5 RL (5 and 6 are tied together)
    6 RL

    non HID F125:
    1 R
    2 YR
    5 RL

    non HID uses the Daytime Running Light Resistor, and relay

    HID DRL module does not use external resistor nor relay as far as I can see
    HID system has "HID relay" B371, in a separate relay holder next to 6 relay rack

    I don't have an 06 so just going by svc manual

  12. #12
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    My pin 2 is definitely the YR for non-HID lighting.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  13. #13
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    I followed the LW wires from pins 5 and 6 for the RH headlight and found a junction further down. This was confirmed by a connectivity test for both headlight connectors. Pins 5 and 6 are connected.

    This will make my life a little easier, since now I can run one wire each to hi and low beams and keep my joints looking cleaner (and more robust too).

    Thanks again for all the tips and discussion from all.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Scott Meyer's Avatar
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    Octobersknight,

    Just wondering if you ever got the Gen II lights to work correctly? If so, can so share the final pin out and wiring connections you did.

    Art was visiting us a few weeks back, and gave Liam a diagram to start with, and I was looking at this with him tonight but we still can’t sort it out.

    One of the confusing items is the wiring directions in the manual have not been updated for the Gen II lights, and don’t address non HID donor car wiring.
    Last edited by Scott Meyer; 04-30-2021 at 03:45 PM.
    818 "S"pyder delivered 11/27/20, using 2007 Impreza 2.5l NA donor. Work mostly being done by my son Liam...body work and paint being done by dad (that's me)
    MK3.1 #6583RD, built from 2008-2019, sold 11/2011

  15. #15
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    I realize this post is a bit dated but hoping I can get some assistance with troubleshooting voltage in this config. I am getting low and changing voltages with different switch positions. I have made the connections for both left and right headlight buckets per the thread above but am getting voltage drops at the different pins. My accent lights get 12.9 volts from the PL switch on top of the steering column but only 11.8 volts when the stem switch is activated. At PIN 1 and 5 I am getting 11.2 and PIN 2 a reading of 3.4. Is this a bad relay? Or do I need to make an additional connection or jumper in the Fog Light Circuit?

  16. #16
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    mstreet, are you taking these readings with the car on and the engine running? Sometimes running in accessory or on mode will give funny readings without the alternator pumping power into the system.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  17. #17
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    Scott,
    Sorry I didn't see your post or get a notification. I just got one for mstreet's message and saw your note (from two years ago, yikes!). In case you are still wondering, I wired it as noted above. I can take pictures when I get home to verify. I will note that I do not seem to have the functionality I originally intended. I have just recently been checking the headlights and accent lights as I go my bucket install, and the accent lights/headlights do not have any DRL functionality. I will have to chase my DRL resistor wiring to determine if that's the main problem (though it wouldn't affect the direct-to-ground accent lights if I did those right).
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  18. #18
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    OK, so as simple as that sounds it made a difference. At least in being able to trace the problem. With engine running and I get 13.7v on PIN 1, 13.5v on PIN 5, and 4v PIN 2. And the Lo Beams are on at ignition with hi-beam shutter non-functioning. If I pull the DRL Relay then Hi-beam indicator and HB shutter functions, just no light at Hi or Lo. Can I assume a bad relay? Or is the DRL Module?

  19. #19
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    Mstreet,

    It's been a while since I dug into the headlight wiring, but here's a drawing I made at the time to help make things work.

    Projector headlight wiring.jpg

    First, the 3 to 4 volts you see on PIN 2 is because the daytime running light system is functioning and the DRL resistor is causing the voltage rise. Removing the DLR relay should make things work as you observed. So it's a little early to fault a relay or the DRL module.

    The parking switch atop the steering column pulls current directly from a fuse, while the stem switch activates a relay. There is a small voltage drop when current goes through a relay. That voltage difference is normal.

    A couple of questions will help get us figure out what the problem might be. What year is your donor wiring harness? Are your headlights wired up like the blue lines on the above drawing? Do you plan to keep the DRL feature? Will you install fog lights?

    All the best,
    RPG
    Last edited by RPGs818SNA; 04-25-2023 at 07:54 PM.

  20. #20
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    My donor is a 2006 Impreza WRX Wagon, MT. I have Gen II lights wired per the drawing attached. The Lo Beam and Hi Beam Shutter share a connection on PIN 5. I am indifferent on DRL but will connect the "easiest" solution. I do not plan to install fog lights.

    2006 Impreza Headlight Wiring Diagram.pdf

    Once I diagnosed with the engine running the headlights illuminated at engine start with the stem and column switch OFF. This led me to the conclusion that it could be a faulty DRL Relay (Not sure how else current would be getting to the bulb with switches in the OFF position?) So I removed the relay. At that point all other functions with accent, directional, and hi-beam shutter functioned as I would expect. Just no illumination in the main bulb. So I'm not sure if I isolated the problem or just killed the DRL circuit that was at fault? Or maybe I'm just on the wrong track altogether?

  21. #21
    Senior Member octobersknight's Avatar
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    I think the only function of the DRL relay is to switch between the resistor and no resistor on the low-beam ground line. The low-beam lights are supposed to be on at all times - just dimmer when "off" due to the DRL circuit. I'm not sure why the DRL relay would impact your other functionality. You can generally check the "goodness" of a relay by unplugging it, finding an online pinout diagram, and wiring the power-circuit leads to your battery or a 12V power source. Then track the resistance of the other pins with a multimeter and listen for the click when you energize and de-energize the switching coil.

    Since your other functions are impacted, perhaps it could be the DRL control module not behaving? Hard to see how that would impact all those other functions you mention though.
    818C chassis #546. Ordered 8/14/18, picked up 10/6/18. First start 01/16/2021!
    Donor: 2006 WRX wagon, 108k miles.
    Options: Chassis powder coat, CF street splitter, rockers, diffuser, and spoiler, polished shift knob, adjustable rear lower lateral control arms, vinyl padded dash/door, complete carpet set, battery cut-off switch, wiper kit, aluminum shifter assembly, complete CV axles, harness bar mount, matte gunmetal wheels.

  22. #22
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    Great, we have the same year donor, although mine is just an Impreza sedan. I think this is from the manual:

    For Imprezas that are not WRX-STI:
    The low beam headlights will automatically come on at reduced brightness when the engine has started, under the following conditions:
    The parking brake is fully released.
    The light switch is in the .OFF. or position 1 (Parking lights).
    The automatic transmission selector lever is set at other than the .P. position.

    So your headlights coming on with an engine start is normal, as is PIN 2 going to 4 volts. Does PIN 2 go to 0 volts when you turn the stem switch on? Can you switch from hi to low beam?

    Here's a schematic for the 2006 showing how the projector lights are connected and how to delete the DLR function if you choose to. There's also a green mod that fixes a fog light problem that keeps the shutter open.

    Projector headlight schematic 2006.jpg

    The good news is that several things are working correctly so far.

    RPG
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by RPGs818SNA; 04-26-2023 at 11:46 AM. Reason: correct photo

  23. #23
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    PIN 2 is 4 volts at ON and OFF, no change. Hi-Beam Shutter does not respond with the DRL Relay connected.

    Not sure I'm following your schematic? I'm working at and making all of these connections at the headlight bucket, so that would be the Subaru connector F125 and F126. My preference would be to delete DRL and Fog Lights.

  24. #24
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    Sorry, I posted the wrong picture. I replaced it with the right one.

    OK, since your Pin 2 voltage isn't changing, check the GR wire on the DRL relay. It should read 0 volts when the headlights are turned on or the stem is pulled to flash the lights. Be sure the connector is firmly plugged into the stem light switch under the steering column. See photo below.

    Attachment 183589


    RPG

  25. #25
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    GR wire on relay shows about 10.9v with lights OFF. Reads 0.1v with lights ON or stem pulled.

  26. #26
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    OK, that's good, the stem switch is working. Back to the DRL relay. Pin 1 and 3 are both Yellow Red wires. Pin 1 is connected to the headlights Pin 2 and should read the same 4 volts with the engine running and the relay plugged in. Pin 3, the center connector, should read the same as Pin 1 when DRL is active. Pin 5, Black, should read 0 volts, ground. Pin 2, Green Black, is relay power and should be around 12 volts. You already checked Pin 4, Green Red. If all these pins read correctly, you may well have a bad DRL relay. If not, let me know what you measure and I'll help you track down the issue.

    As an alternative, you can make the changes shown in red to delete the DRL function and see what happens. It will definitely fix a bad DRL relay.

    All the best,
    RPG
    Last edited by RPGs818SNA; 04-26-2023 at 04:12 PM.

  27. #27
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    Here's what I measured:

    PIN 1 YR - 3.4v OFF & ON
    PIN 2GR - 10.9v OFF & 0.0v ON
    PIN 3 YR - 3.4v OFF & ON
    PIN 4 GB - 11.3v OFF & 3.3v ON
    PIN 5 B - 0v OFF & ON

    And just to clarify, if I delete DRL function then I'll have to manually turn lights on at the stalk when I want them? I'm OK with that but I wasn't able to see your attachment with the changes outlined.

  28. #28
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    Looks like you were right all along! The DRL relay isn't working right. Here's the drawing with the changes to delete the DRL function. The headlights will only turn on when you switch them on at the stalk or pull the stalk to flash them on.

    Attachment 183603

    The red dot means connect the green wire to the green red one. Just ground the YR wire. Cut at the Xs and you should be good to go.

    Hope this fixes your lights,
    RPG

  29. #29
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    I'm having a problem opening your attachment. Do you mind forwarding to my email at [email protected]? I have sent a message to the webmaster/administrator.

  30. #30
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    No problem. I sent you a PDF version for easy opening.

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