More progress made on the body : )

[The Stig]

Thanks Rick. I appreciate it. Understated Elegance as a wise man once said... The look of the car is really turning out the way I had hoped.

Take Care,

Mike

[Stage7]

Looks great Stig! Congrats on getting her back home.

[The Stig]

Looks great Stig! Congrats on getting her back home.

Thanks Roberto. It feels good to have it back in the garage!

[The Stig]

How many have used racing harnesses attached to a harness bar? I have Richard Oben's Harness bar, and I'm wondering whether or not just bolting it through the frame bars is sufficient? Or would a bracket be a good idea to have behind the bar?

I'm also considering either having the bar Powder Coated, or send it out the be Chromed/Polished. What are your thoughts?

[crash]

IMHO...you should make the shoulder belts attachment points as strong as you can. If there is a way to make it stronger with minimal changes/work...DO IT!

But that's just my opinion.

[mmaragos]

I thought about chroming too, but it would have been the only chrome interior item...I decided to do a satin black powder coat that blended well. I am bolting through the existing frame, grade 8 hardware...at this point, I am not doing anything more.

[The Stig]

Filters for the fuel tanks:

I saw a filter that Gary Cheney used for what looks like a gearbox breather. I would like ot do something similar for each of my fuel tanks. If you look at the picture you'll see a cone shaped filter mounted to the right hand sided of the engine bay framework. I am looking for a way to allow the tanks to breathe, and also vent the fumes safely away from the car.

I'm thinking of using something like this, unless anyone knows where I could find a charcoal filter that I could vent through.

Also, where is a good place to find the filter that Gary used in this picture? Is this a Summit part?

Thanks,

[weendoggy]

You can make an inexpensive charcoal filter yourself by using a 4" yard popup sprinkler, gutted, sink strainer and charcoal for an aquarium. A lot of us are doing that on our roadsters and they work quite well. You could probably hide it from your engine bay for a clean look too.

[The Stig]

Thanks Glenn. Do you have any pictures of that process? If I can make it myself, I'd like to give it a shot.

Mike

[weendoggy]

Check this thread http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...al-filter.html and look at post #5. I made mine similar to this but did some extra things.
1. Take the guts out, go to a pet store and buy a small box of charcoal (usually in pellet type), get some fine SS mesh screen from a hardware store in the sink stopper area and a small 1 1/2" sink strainer.
2. After taking the guts out, check to make sure the sink strainer will fit (I did this in the store to make sure it would), open up the thread top to allow a little extra breathing room (I just used a knife)
3. Cut the fine mesh screen (mine was from a SS strainer I cut from a store bought strainer) large enough to fit in the sprinkler body but not come out the threaded end, cut another one to fit just under the sink strainer to keep the charcoal from coming out.
4. Put the small piece in the bottom, fill with charcoal, put the second fine mesh and sink strainer on followed by the screw top.
5. Now all you need is a 1/2" NPT to hose size of your choice on the end of the sprinkler and you can install. I secured mine with a large loom insulated clamp.

Picture of mine installed.

[LCD Gauges]

K&N makes various types of breathers. The one in the following photo is about two inches in diameter, and can be purchased for about $15.00.

They even come with chrome caps:

[IMG]http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/50...-62-1470_4.jpg[/IMG]
599-62-1470_4.jpg

[The Stig]

I am getting ready to do the alignment on my car, but thought that since I'm doing that, I should go ahead and make the suspension changes that I had been thinking of (at the same time). I don't like pulling the corners apart. Especially the shocks.

1. Have the upper and lower control arm mounts and the Upper Shock mounts relocated.
The Upper C/A mounts moved rearward 1/2 inch, and The Lower C/A mounts moved forward 1 inch. This should reposition the wheel in the fender opening to give more clearance for there rear of the fender. My "guesstimates" look like it should move the hub forward by about 3/4 inch.

This is based on my guess that the uprights are roughly 14" tall. (Guessing because I haven't had time at home to put a tape next to them to measure more accurately, but will soon.) My thinking is that if I move the top mounts rearward without moving the lower, I'm going to crowd the rear of the fender even more. So, in order to get some of the caster that I need, and keep the front wheels centered in the wheel openings, I'm planning to go with the last model pictured.


2. Rebuild the arms using Pfadt C5 Control Arm "Poly" bushing kit. (I'm also thinking of having them powder-coated as well, but not sure yet).



3. The upper shock mount will more than likely need to be relocated in order to center the shock between the Upper Control Arms.
4. Replace all shocks with Penske 7500 dual-adjustable.

5. I want to use Ted Harrison's (LS Man) Anti-Roll bar Kit on the front suspension.
Doing so means that I'll have to give up the custom aluminum Wiper Mount, Wiper Fluid container, which sort of bums me out because it's such a nice piece.
I'm am still kicking around the idea of using a stock corvette bar on the front as well. (But I really like the design that Ted has come up with.)
I can install Ted's bar kit without needing to remove the aluminum panels for access. Just drill the needed hole, and slide the torque bar through.
Everything else bolts on within the wheel opening.

6. I'll be using a standard "Medium" Corvette bar on the rear suspension. Pfadts "JO" Bar. Standard bar and links can be used.

7. Then the alignment and weight balancing can begin.


I think that I am finally about to free up some time that I can start working on the car again. Given my schedules lately, this may end up being a 3 weekend project.

In the meantime, I think I may finally be able to get the registration and plates behind me, and get it out on the road soon. We'll see. I'm just glad to finally have a plan, and some time to pursue it again.

I don't have scales to weigh the car, so I'm looking into buying a set of Longacre (4400 x 1 lb.): around $800.00.
I've purchased the alignment "flats" for toe-in measurement. $60.00
Getting ready to buy a Camber/Caster gauge as well.

Please send your thoughts. Particularly on the C/A bushings. I don't want it to ride like a tank, but I do want to keep the arms "static" so the alignment doesn't move around much due to loads.

We'll see how it works out.

[crash]

You're really going to buy an $800 set of scales to use once or twice?

DANG!

[Fred Brewer]

I wonder how much caster you'll be building in by altering the angle by 1" & 1/2" (option 3)? More than you want? How much do you want? On my upper control arms I moved the balljoint pickup point back about 1" (caster) and in some as well (camber) as best as I can tell I can get 7* of caster and -2.5 of camber fairly easily. Should be easy to get more caster if I wanted (front lower rear adjuster only out 1/2 way). Please keep in mind my measurment devices are kind of crude so your mileage may vary. My initial though might be do 1/2" either way (option 1). I would imagine moving those lower mounts would be quite a job though. Too bad you couldn't machine off a little of the fronts of the lower control arms and the new bushings so it would move forward a bit,, then just shim the backside.

I bet Joel could tell you what you'd be looking at with those new numbers,, maybe he'll post up his thoughts.

I've got VBP polly bushings in mine. Based on everrything I've read, they will probablly squeak after a time. I put zerk fittings in the front lowers as the new bushings are two pieces an hopeully I can get some lube in there where they start making noise.

[The Stig]

You're really going to buy an $800 set of scales to use once or twice?

DANG!

Unless I can find some that are less expensive; yes. I don't have direct access to a "race shop" to make the changes that I need to make, or to scale the car. If I find that I don't need them later, I'll sell them.

I wonder how much caster you'll be building in by altering the angle by 1" & 1/2" (option 3)? More than you want? How much do you want? On my upper control arms I moved the balljoint pickup point back about 1" (caster) and in some as well (camber) as best as I can tell I can get 7* of caster and -2.5 of camber fairly easily. Should be easy to get more caster if I wanted (front lower rear adjuster only out 1/2 way). Please keep in mind my measurment devices are kind of crude so your mileage may vary. My initial though might be do 1/2" either way (option 1). I would imagine moving those lower mounts would be quite a job though. Too bad you couldn't machine off a little of the fronts of the lower control arms and the new bushings so it would move forward a bit,, then just shim the backside.

I bet Joel could tell you what you'd be looking at with those new numbers,, maybe he'll post up his thoughts.

I've got VBP polly bushings in mine. Based on everrything I've read, they will probablly squeak after a time. I put zerk fittings in the front lowers as the new bushings are two pieces an hopeully I can get some lube in there where they start making noise.

Hi Fred. I posted the drawings more or less to get feedback, to find out if my logic is pointed in the right direction or not. All I know for certain is that I do NOT want to cut into the body to grind out some wheel clearance for the front wheels. So I figure that top and bottom arms need to be in the equation. Without having specific measurements of the uprights, and where the dimension of the center-point of the hub is, relative to the overall height of the part, I'm just guessing at best.

There was talk of custom upper control arms that could be made for the GTM builders. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of interest for those who could to make them. Fran Hall makes some beautiful billet arms for his cars, but I'm fairly certain that he is not in the business of creating workable arms for the "competition". You can look in just about any parts catalog, and see adjustable control arms for mustangs: But absolutely nothing for the Corvette C5 or 6.

So, for me, this appears to be the next best thing.

[Fred Brewer]

Hi Fred. I posted the drawings more or less to get feedback, to find out if my logic is pointed in the right direction or not. All I know for certain is that I do NOT want to cut into the body to grind out some wheel clearance for the front wheels. So I figure that top and bottom arms need to be in the equation. Without having specific measurements of the uprights, and where the dimension of the center-point of the hub is, relative to the overall height of the part, I'm just guessing at best.

There was talk of custom upper control arms that could be made for the GTM builders. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of interest for those who could to make them. Fran Hall makes some beautiful billet arms for his cars, but I'm fairly certain that he is not in the business of creating workable arms for the "competition". You can look in just about any parts catalog, and see adjustable control arms for mustangs: But absolutely nothing for the Corvette C5 or 6.

So, for me, this appears to be the next best thing.

I think your logic is spot on,,, and I know I wouldn't want to rework your body/paint,,,, way to nice now. That said,, if you could get a little on the top (back) and a little on the bottom (forward) I think it would help the caster/camber numbers. With a reworked upper control arm like David Borden's you could get the numbers but you may run into the issue of body rub. I think if you can move the top and the bottom equal ammounts the wheel will stay in the same location relative to the body,, right?.

I think moving the lower a-arm forward is the biggest issue. The uppers you could move those back 1/2" fairly easy. I still wonder if you could machine off a bit of that lower control arm. It sure would make things easier. I may take a look see tonight.

[mikespms]

In order to relocte your mounts you will have to remove your front panels, It may be less work and cost to fabricate new adjustable control arms.

[The Stig]

That is true.

The panels will need to come back off in order to cut the mounts and re-weld them (or newly manufactured mounts) back onto the frame. And while the panels are off, I could mount the standard sway bar, and then make the new cuts as needed for the sway bar access and pick up points for the Control Arms.

Either way, I'm going to have to re-work the panels, if I move the mounts.

Take Care,

Mike

[The Stig]

After reading through some of the thoughts and concerns that you guys have posted, I sat down last night, and re-thought this whole suspension re-design.

I re-read Ted and Ron's "Chassis Set-up" thread (for at least the 100th time)... and I think what I will do is change the shocks, slot the upper mounts, add Ted's Sway bar kit (ordered it last night), rebuild the control arms (bushings & ball joints), and add the FFR Bump steer Kit (Ordered it a couple of days ago).

Once I have the parts installed, I'll get the corner weights, and cross balance the car.

I'll see where it is at that point and then decide if I need to do any more. As I've said before, one of my biggest concerns is whether or not I cause the front tires to rub the fenders as a result of slotting the upper arms and them moving back. We'll see.

I'll try to post a few pictures as I go along, in case anyone else might be planning to do the same thing.

[The Stig]

Hi guys,

I promised a video of the GTM getting up and down my driveway. It's a little shaky at times, but I think you'll get an idea of how the lift works. It's supposed to show the clearance at the nose as I drive down my driveway, and then as I drive up the driveway. My driveway is very steep, and as I drive down it, the weight loads up on the front of the car making the nose sit down a little. When I drive into & up the driveway, the nose sits up a little higher, because the weight is better distributed.

After watching these videos, I know for sure that if I didn't have this lift kit, there is no way I would be able to get the GTM in and out of my driveway.

See what you think...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zmOo...hBcxSuYI_FRw6E


RamLift Pump


Ramlift Reservoir


RamLift Puck Installed at the lower end of the Shock. The Puck had to be bored out about 1/8" on a lathe in order to fit over the Koni shock sleeve. If you decide to buy this Kit, make sure that you tell Simon, that these are going over the Koni Sleeves. He can open them up for you to use on the Koni Coil Over Sleeves.




Thanks,

[kabacj]

I think you made the right choice on the suspension Mike. With those changes and some tuning I'm sure you will have a very good setup.

Looking forward to seeing it happen.

John.

[Kempo]

Very cool set up Mike.

[LCD Gauges]

The lift kit is certainly needed for your driveway angle.

What is the tape doing on the front on the car? Tow hook location?

[carbon fiber]

lookin good! i've got some gas money in my pocket... congrats, looks and sounds great. interested in the suspension mods, keep us posted!

[mmaragos]

Thanks for the video! Looking really good - that's a nice solution. My driveway is not as steep but I have the same issue, especially with the front splitter. Without the front splitter, if I am very slow and careful - I can just make it. With the splitter, no way.

[VD2021]

Mike,
Thanks for posting the videos and pictures.

[Stage7]

Nice videos Stig. I have the Ramlift on my SLC as well. I think it's necessary to have it in the Northeast. A half inch could be the difference between leaving your splitter or bumper on the road or having it stay with the car.

[The Stig]

Nice videos Stig. I have the Ramlift on my SLC as well. I think it's necessary to have it in the Northeast. A half inch could be the difference between leaving your splitter or bumper on the road or having it stay with the car.

Hi Roberto,

Is your pump as loud as mine. If you listen to the video, you can easily hear the pump when you run it to lift the car. It sometimes sounds as though somethings not quite right (due to how loud it is as it runs). If that's normal, I won't worry about it. I should probably send the video links to Simon and ask him as well.


Take care.

[Stage7]

Stig, I haven't turned mine on yet, but Allan's is very loud as well. You may want to reach out to him to compare notes.

[The Stig]

The lift kit is certainly needed for your driveway angle.

What is the tape doing on the front on the car? Tow hook location?

Yes, I have a crazy steep driveway... the entry is just level enough to get up onto it, and then it gets pretty steep. I think I measured the steepest angle at 22 degrees before it finally starts to level out at the top.

The tape on the front of the car? I'm not 100% sure. It was left on by Jeff (Whitby's) when he delivered the car to me. My guess is that it's a center point measurement that he marked, in order to line the hood up when it was installed onto the chassis.

I was going to use it as a reference when installing the splitter, but I'm not sure that I really need it so it'll be taken off and cleaned the next time you see the car. At this point, I'm not sure whether or not I'll be able to use the splitter...

If not I have two sets of splitters and rocker extensions that I won't be able to use.

[The Stig]

Hi Guys,

I have a quick question. For those of you who took advantage of picking up one of the Carbon Fiber Engine covers that Shane sells; can you tell me what you are using to glue or secure the chrome strips and FFR Badge in place? I know that there are plenty of adhesives that can be used. I'm just thinking of the heat that builds in the engine compartment, so what is the best for the constant heating and cool downs that take place.





Thanks,

Mike

[crash]

I know some people think silicone has no bonding strength, but that's what I would use. It can handle as much heat as you can throw at it, and it's cheap and easy to use.

[fastthings]

double back sticky foam

[The Stig]

I know some people think silicone has no bonding strength, but that's what I would use. It can handle as much heat as you can throw at it, and it's cheap and easy to use.

Now that you mention it, I believe that Jeff made the same suggestion. But my short term memory seems to be shorter and shorter lately.

Go figure.

[The Stig]

I was finally able to get outside and spend time on the GTM this weekend. It felt good to get a couple of things done.

• Got the Engine Cover set up to go on the car. Had to cut a couple of tabs for the Cold Air intake hoses. Applied the Factory Five Badge, and the Metal Strips.

• I followed the lead of one of our friends from the cobra forum (Weendoggy), and made a couple of Charcoal filters for the Aluminum Fuel Tank Vents... one for each tank.

• http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...al-filter.html

• Used a couple of 4" pop-up sprinkler heads (gutted), some screen from a kitchen strainer, plain scotch-brite that I trimmed to fit snugly inside he sprinkler body (top and bottom), and filled it with active Carbon that I bought from a pet store. I went to the local ACE hardware store and bought a couple of Brass 1/2" NPT with 5/16 barbed fittings to connect the hose from the fuel tank to.
  
  • Hooked them up, and wahlah... no more fuel smell coming from the car.
  • Temporary mounted until I can decide where I want to put them.
  
  

• Also disassembled the Custom Hatch Props that I bought from Shane Vacek, and sent them to be powder coated. Supposed to have them back by Thursday.

• Wiper Assembly will be one of the next things to do.

• Still waiting on a quote for the Shock Package that Ted Harrison and Ron Richmond are putting together. As soon as I have that, I can place the shock order, and start rebuilding the control arms and install the Front Sway Bar Kit that I bought from Ted. I may end up needing to go with the Penske shocks after all, as I really need to get get this done.

I have a punch list of about 25 things that still need to be done, before the interior goes in. But is sure felt good to be "doing it" again...


I'll post pictures of the Engine Cover and the Hatch Props this weekend. I'm out of town until Thursday...

[The Stig]

I got the Custom Hatch Props back from Powder Coating. Reassembled them in about 10 minutes, and had them switched and installed in about another 20 minutes. The "toughest" part of the whole thing was to drill out the 3 rivets on each side... And then install the new brackets onto the hatch. After that, it's just a matter of bolting them into the same locations that the gas struts had been... Not much to it.

[Kempo]

Very nice Mike!!!

[The Stig]

Another of the really nice products that Shane has made available to us, are the Carbon Fiber engine covers.

I ended up needing to cut out a couple of slots on the sides to allow vent hoses for the Cold Air Intake to pass through.

I think it cleans up the engine bay really well. I'm happy with how it turned out.

[kabacj]

Mike that looks awesome.

I really like it

John

[LCD Gauges]

Mobile art!

Lovin' the clean, symmetrical look of the engine bay.