Sway bars!

[danmas]

If you have sway bars with your build, read ahead on the instructions. The front bar connects to the bottom of your shock mount. So I get to take some things apart. The rear one connects with your control arms. So, read the instructions first. Not a huge deal to unbolt something but better to get it right the first time…

That is all.
Carry on.

[F500guy]

Yes, I stopped working on my rear suspension when I realized I needed to put the bracket on, which was raw steel and dropped it off at powder coater, along with the bushing brackets, 30 hr turn around but it was 180.00 for 12 items and the breeze battery box. I could chase all over town, but when they look at the part and give an estimate and they are far between, kind of feel a little hard to get competing bids.

[Rsnake]

I suggest not running the rear bar if you intend to push the car hard.
The oversteer will be uncontrollable with a rear bar. I have had both the coupe and roadster and do lots of auto cross and learned quickly to not use the rear bar.

[danmas]

Thanks for the advice guys. I went out to my garage with the intent of shelving the bars until later. I changed my mind half way through. Easy enough to uninstall them if I need to. Rather get everything put together and disconnect instead of having to disassemble and reassemble.

Thanks! Dan

[CraigS]

On the off chance you decide you don't want the bars, just remove one of the links to the control arm.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I suggest not running the rear bar if you intend to push the car hard.
The oversteer will be uncontrollable with a rear bar. I have had both the coupe and roadster and do lots of auto cross and learned quickly to not use the rear bar.

Totally wrong, and completely against the science of chassis setup and physics. If you stiffen only the front it will exacerbate the moderate understeer that these cars have with the factory spring combination. If you are getting "uncontrollable oversteer" with a front bar and no corresponding change to rear roll stiffness it's because you're getting undeersteer induced "snap oversteer" either when the front finally scrubs off enough speed to grip or because you're lifting and unloading the rear.


Jeff

[Rsnake]

Jeff,
Both my roadster and coupe would oversteer on the skid pad with the rear bar. With the rear bar removed and the tire pressures at correct pressures both would be neutral. Maybe it's just me but my rear bar is hanging in attic and will not see the car again. Now if I could figure out how to get a bigger bar up front I might install the rear bar but don't plan on going down that road.

[Dave Tabor]

FWIW-YMMV-GTFO:

My Gen III Coupe (IRS) is very hard to get to understeer with the stiffest front ARB setting and no rear ARB - this is both on, steady and off-throttle, low and high speeds.

Dave
Gen III Coupe #17
19,000+ miles

[nucjd19]

Jeff,
Both my roadster and coupe would oversteer on the skid pad with the rear bar. With the rear bar removed and the tire pressures at correct pressures both would be neutral. Maybe it's just me but my rear bar is hanging in attic and will not see the car again. Now if I could figure out how to get a bigger bar up front I might install the rear bar but don't plan on going down that road.

This has been confusing to me as well. When driving my Roadster after professional alignment and with power steering standard alignment numbers, I noticed significant oversteer. Note, I have set road height based on edwardb setup and and was very meticulous. That being said I am very sensitive to oversteer tracking Porsche 911's for years. I put on a front sway bar and it was much more neutral to me after with the ability to power slide in a very neutral fashion with the "butt seat" feeling of the rear prior to the sway bar wanting to meet the front resolved. I need to take my Roadster to Jeff and have him coach me on the auto cross track and school me with these rigs

[GoDadGo]

I put on a front sway bar and it was much more neutral to me after with the ability to power slide in a very neutral fashion with the "butt seat" feeling of the rear prior to the sway bar wanting to meet the front resolved.

I need to take my Roadster to Jeff and have him coach me on the auto cross track and school me with these rigs

I'm in same boat as you and am running stock springs but am running a small 3/4" front sway bar; however, my weight distribution is 50/50 since I moved the engine and transmission about 6" forward.

With a different CG, my car tends to do a four wheel drift if pushed hard on long sweeping turns. It feels great, is quite manageable, does not push and is not tail happy but understand that I am not an auto cross or road racer guy by any means.

Ditto On Needing Sir Jeffski For Some Auto Cross Training!

[Hoooper]

Arent the sway bars adjustable? Mine have three stiffness options front and rear and I thought I bought the same bars FFR provides with the kit (flyin miata NA6 front sway bars)