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Steering tight and won't center
OK guys need help. I have had my 818 for a few years done and on the road it has always been a tight steer. Not tight like sized more like little to no castor.it won't self center. If you turn the wheel left of right it goes there and stays. You need to steer it back. I know lots of mods have been done for castor. All my stuff is stock FF parts except a Baer bumps steer kit.
Does anyone have pics or info of the upper control arm mods to get castor adjustments?
I know there was talking of shorting rear threaded arms to allow more adjustment
See attached pics of mine. I have never done an actual alignment does string alignment.
Any suggestions please
16951572312316257906409844377595.jpg
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How much caster do you currently have? My 818S drives very nicely with 4.5 degrees. To achieve this involved flipping the hurricane bracket and adding a spacer (1/2 in) between the hurricane bracket and lower control arm as well as cutting both the threaded studs and black nuts on the upper control arms. This diagram (which I think originated with Wayne at VCP) is a good starting point for control arm length. I ended up with 110 mm rear and 190 mm front.IMG_1812 (1).jpg
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This is great stuff! I currently don't know what it is. I have never had a computer alignment. I do know it's not right lol. I was going to get a pre alignment. Or modify what ever and get it close so if I go in they can make small changes to tune it.
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I am 175 on the front and 115 on the rear. I assume the lower control arm mod is on his build?
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No point in making changes without knowing what you have now. I'd either take it to an alignment shop, preferably somebody who has done race cars, or do a string alignment. I aligned mine using strings and it drives surprisingly well. Carves canyon roads like a Lotus and drives straight and tight at a hundred on the freeway. Lots of alignment threads here on the forum.
Ed
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Originally Posted by
Lumpyguy
I am 175 on the front and 115 on the rear. I assume the lower control arm mod is on his build?
I presume the same, but don't know. It is on mine. If you have a digital level you can put it on the Factory Five extension of the upright (after making your car level) and get a good measure of castor. I get very good agreement between that measure and castor measured in the usual way. Your IPhone level may also work but may only be calibrated in full degrees..
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