Here's an example of what I did, fabricated a sheet metal box, cut the tunnel aluminum off so I could remove the shifter area back without removing the new console. The console screws on to tabs welded to the frame rails. I can send you drawing of the console sheet metal to give you an idea how big and angles, but a starting point for you. PM with you Email and I'll send the drawing files.
I added 3/4" thick marine plywood on the shifter section to add cup holders and clear the TKO; used the original aluminum on the bottom surface for fire protection.
Love that dash!!
Cheers,
Dave
Mk 3.1 #6616 Complete Kit, July 2008 Start, Gromm Racing 347, TKO 500, IRS, Carmine Red / Wimbleton White
Mk 3.1 #6756 Complete Kit, May 2016 kit completion, Smeding Alum. 427 Stack Injection, TKO600, Custom Silver/Blue (SOLD)
While I didn't add switches or gauges, I made a console to house the radio and a cubby for sunglasses or phone. On the PS, there is a USB and cigarette lighter power port. On the DS, there is a latching door to access the battery main disconnect.
I built a "Do Dad" to hold my stereo and most of my switches and it turned out pretty well...The only problem is my car is so freaking loud that I don't use the stereo unless we parked...It also hides where most of my wires enter the engine bay so it's pretty busy to say the least.
I made mine form some .040 and a basic harbor freight bender. I had just enough room to mount my master battery disconnect switch on it. I also used the vintage toggle switch bezel for accessories.
knob in driver side is subwoofer gain
usb chargers both sides
seat heater buttons
footbox fan buttons
keyless start driver side
Wilwood Electric Parking Brake on passenger side Alpine ilx-W650 touchscreen stereo Kenwood KAC-M3004 amp behind it all to power the 4 speakers in the car
knob in driver side is subwoofer gain
usb chargers both sides
seat heater buttons
footbox fan buttons
keyless start driver side
Wilwood Electric Parking Brake on passenger side Alpine ilx-W650 touchscreen stereo Kenwood KAC-M3004 amp behind it all to power the 4 speakers in the car
Toadster - What did you use to cut your dash holes?
Mine is pretty basic. Uses a Whitby consol kit. Easy to make with a Harbor break, but I did not have one at the time. Three versions using the same parts. Original with a radio, next the original with the AVH-4200-NEX. The third version is with custom gauges replacing the original FFR set. The vent pulls were also eliminated. Pretty much never used.
Original version with radio.
Second Version with the Pioneer receiver
Third & current version also has custom gauges replacing the original FFR set. Vent pulls eliminated. Twin dual USB ports were added to the console.
FWIW I used velcro on the under dash tray to hold the garage door opener, 4200 controller & Nano I-pods
All versions have the main speakers in them.
Tools were a step drill for small holes . An air powered nibbler to make the big holes.
The kill switch is on the U-Joint cover. Easy to reach. I added a 10amp fuse to the switch to keep my ECU & 4200 alive when the switch is in the off position. Rubber shift boot was replaced by soft leather. Will not pull shifter out of gear.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 12-23-2023 at 03:46 PM.
Kevin
MKIV #8234
Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15
The vintage style switches are great. Where did you source them from? Thanks! Joel
Originally Posted by Fman
I made mine form some .040 and a basic harbor freight bender. I had just enough room to mount my master battery disconnect switch on it. I also used the vintage toggle switch bezel for accessories.
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Ordered Aug 2023; Delivery Dec 2023.
MK IV Complete Kit w/ IRS, Forte SBF 427W w/Edelbrock ProFlo 4, TKX, Wilwood 12.88, Willwood EPB.
Power steering, manual clutch