I've been lurking on this forum for ages, observing, researching, learning... preparing for the day I get to start building my own FFR 33 Hot Rod. I've enjoyed following along with everyone's build threads, and even never having spoken a single word to any of you all, you are all familiar to me. Now I get to start my own build thread! I've wanted to build one of these cars ever since FFR introduced them, but never felt like I was in a place financially to do it (probably being too cautious). So I had been searching for a partially completed kit, hoping to get a break on the price, and maybe get past the thousands of rivets (ha!). About 3 weeks ago I ran across a very brief ad on racingjunk with a really good price, so sent a message. Turns out a gentleman ordered a Stage 1 kit, started assembling the kit, then unexpectedly passed away. His widowed wife and best friend are cleaning out his shop and selling stuff for closure and to move on. They are wonderful people, great to work with, and were very helpful throughout the sale and shipping of the kit. Getting to know them, and getting a feeling for who the original purchaser was, I'm grateful to get the opportunity to build this car. It seems he and I had a similar dream and vision for the car. On to the kit details:
Factory Five '33 Hot Rod chassis #1094
Stage 1 Kit
Gen 1.5 frame
Powder Coat Frame Satin Black
LS Installation Kit
Hydraulic Clutch Kit
31 Spline Chevy TKO
2015 IRS
Spread Rear Exhaust
Sound Insulation Kit
Chrome Tilt Steering Column
Electric Power Steering
EFI In-Tank Fuel System
Hot Rod A/C Kit
IRS 13" Brake Kit
2015 IRS Center Section and Spindles
34034 FFR Gauge Cluster
Leather Roadster Seat Upgrade
Seat Tracks
FFR Floor Mats
The first things I need to do are inventory the parts, and identify the hardware. This is proving to be a bit of a challenge due to the fact that quite a bit of this was repacked by someone unfamiliar with the kit. Next will be selling all the A/C and LS related components and purchasing the needed components for my combination.
Congrats, looking forward to following your build.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
I can't find any reference to them in the assembly manual. Unless I missed it, I don't see them in any of the pictures in the manual at all!
Does anyone know what they're for? All I see is that they're too small to run 3/8" fuel line through and have hard edges that would chafe any lines, wires, etc. And they mess up being able to run lines straight enough to satisfy my OCD tendencies.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I can't find any reference to them in the assembly manual. Unless I missed it, I don't see them in any of the pictures in the manual at all!
Does anyone know what they're for? All I see is that they're too small to run 3/8" fuel line through and have hard edges that would chafe any lines, wires, etc. And they mess up being able to run lines straight enough to satisfy my OCD tendencies.
Welcome to the fun! I wanted to build a roadster for the longest time, ever since I heard of FFR. I used to know a guy near me that used to build them for clients but he gave it up. I went for a ride in a real 427 Cobra as a teenager and always wished I could get one. Since growing old I don't really like cars without a roof so I went with the Hot Rod after toying with the Daytona coupe, but I'm more of a muscle car guy.
33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.
Just catching up after some vacation time, great to see this build thread!!
I have #1104 which is another gen 1.5 chassis. Just a heads up, the only really challenge I remember is related to the striker mount for the door. The location for the striker bracket on the chassis was mounted in the gen 2 location (higher up) and it doesn't line up with the internal door pieces and latch of the gen 1. FFR had to fab a special striker mount plate for us.
You only have the stage 1 kit though? If the steel door structure will be gen 2 pieces you'll likely not have to worry.... this may be confusing so shout if it needs further clarification.
Cheers
Steve
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
I've made it through the inventory, and found most of the parts which has been fun because everything was repacked. I haven't done much work on the hot rod because I needed to finish a repair job on my Foxbody Mustang. With that out of the way, today my son and I got the chassis up on jack stands, pulled off the "transport wheels" (Lincoln Town Car wheels w/ snow tires), and removed the pedal box. I'll be using the Whitby power brake setup, so needed to remove the master cylinders Then remove the pedals (no clutch needed).
I ordered some seats that have turned out to be too wide, as the recline mechanism ends up in the trans tunnel. From what I can tell the recline mechanism isn't included in the dimension on the website. Bummer because I really liked these seats! While checking this out I noticed this:
Now I know the u-joints need to run at and angle, but this looks like the driveshaft won't clear the driveshaft loops!
I can't check the clearance because I haven't ordered the driveshaft yet, but my eyeball measurements have me worried. Guess I need to get the 302/AOD install parts ordered ASAP.
Last edited by TxMike64; 08-21-2022 at 08:54 PM.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Spend the other night deburring the firewall pieces, so this afternoon I started putting it on the chassis. I seem to remember reading on this forum for years the anguish that builders have gone through getting everything lined up. Maybe I'm blissfully ignorant and totally missing something incredibly important... Or maybe the firewall pieces were revised to aid alignment/placement...But it wasn't too difficult to get it all aligned. I need to pull the pieces back off and grind a weld down in one place, grind off some weld spatter, and grind a little around one of the main frame down tubes. Then I'll get the pieces back on and do a final alignment before tracing the frame tubes to start drilling for rivets. And whomever suggested using the insulation to double check alignment - great suggestion!
On the lower drivers/left firewall piece I'm not sure if I've got a bad part, or if I need to do some trimming, if this is intended, or if I've got something wrong. There seems to be an extra step, or a gap, or it's bent or cut wrong:
Spend the other night deburring the firewall pieces, so this afternoon I started putting it on the chassis. I seem to remember reading on this forum for years the anguish that builders have gone through getting everything lined up. Maybe I'm blissfully ignorant and totally missing something incredibly important... Or maybe the firewall pieces were revised to aid alignment/placement...But it wasn't too difficult to get it all aligned. I need to pull the pieces back off and grind a weld down in one place, grind off some weld spatter, and grind a little around one of the main frame down tubes. Then I'll get the pieces back on and do a final alignment before tracing the frame tubes to start drilling for rivets. And whomever suggested using the insulation to double check alignment - great suggestion!
On the lower drivers/left firewall piece I'm not sure if I've got a bad part, or if I need to do some trimming, if this is intended, or if I've got something wrong. There seems to be an extra step, or a gap, or it's bent or cut wrong:
Oh, and my valve springs finally arrived after months on backorder, so I'll start working on my motor soon too!
I had to do some cutting/bending on mine to get them to fit the way I wanted. If I remember right that gap really does not matter because the floor section just covers it anyway. That lip is just to attach the floor sections.
I finally got the rest of the sheetmetal shipped from the seller. That took WAY too long, but I have them now. I noticed an issue...
This kit was ordered as a Gen1.5 Stage 1 (no body) and if I understand it correctly it was a Gen2 chassis made to be fitted to a Gen1 body. Well because I'll be ordering Stage 2 which will be a Gen2 body, I'm thinking my floor pans will not be correct.
I'm wondering how much trimming I'll have to do, or if these flooe pan pieces will even work with the Gen2 body, or if I've even got the right aluminum trim pieces for the Gen2 body!
And now I'm wondering if the door bars are part of Stage 2.
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Mine is a Gen 2 and my floor is square across just behind the trans mount and a square tube that goes across too that it attached to. My chassis door openings slant down in the front like yours but the sides of the floor are cut to match. Gen 1 door openings are straight across so you have to have your feet higher to get out. Looks like yours is a mix of both.
33 Hot Rod Stage 1, Gen.2 ordered 11/11/2021 started June 12, 2022, LS3 E-Rod crate engine, Tremec TKX, 8.8 WITH 3.55 Ratio and limited slip with 31 spline axles.17X8 and18x10 Race Star wheels wrapped in Conti Extreme contact DWS tires, Mustang Cobra brakes all around. Electric PS and AC. Hard top, electric windows and bike fenders. First Start 5/31/2023. Go-Kart 6/2/2023.
I'm waiting to order more brake parts as the budget allows, so I started assembling my motor, just for mock up purposes. I'll doll it up to check that all the gadgets fit and don't interfere, figure out fuel line placement and where I'll run the EFI harness. Make sure I've got enough clearance for my Master Cylinder and booster. Then I can pull the motor and tear it down to the shortblock and build it up right.
I made my own driver-side mount for this little 90Amp Denso alternator I found. I using an Explorer front cover, water pump, and balancer to make it as compact up front as possible. Plus I can use the crank trigger for my Microsquirt EFI. It's nice having the CNC machines at work available to use for personal projects afterhours!
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Received the Whitby power brake kit on Friday and set aside some time yesterday afternoon to start working on that. Disassembled the Wilwood pedal hanger and installed the Whitby pedal. Put the template on the firewall and noticed that the MC/Booster centerline in relation to the pushrod is offset by about 5/8". I don't see where I could have something out of place, so I'll call Jeff later today to figure this out. I do vaguely remember reading on others' build threads that almost everyone had to do some sort of modifications to the kit to get it working, but don't think anyone posted details.
I'm wondering too if there are differences in the Gen1 vs Gen2 chassis in this area as well and maybe the kit was designed on a Gen1 and then possible minor tweaks are affecting this..?
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
The header flange is hitting the block where the bellhousing bolts! I seem to remember other builders having this issue and wonder if it's a quality control issue at BBK. I'll do some searching on the forum to try to find others' experiences.
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On another front (the back actually), I'm mounting the brake hose tabs on the rear and am having trouble finding where others have mounted this with the S550 IRS, non-Wilwood brakes, and the Rear Exit Exhaust combination. After trying a few things I like mounting them forward like this:
My question to all of yall: Do I need to be concerned that the up/down motion of the suspension with unscrew the hose from the adapter/tab? And if anyone has any pics or suggestions I'd appreciate it!
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
FINALLY have the engine/trans installed after too many months with too many "distractions - holidays, travel, family, work, honey-do projects, rearranging the garage/shop space....
This is a huge motivator for me as now I can move on with designing the power brake setup, running brake lines, fuel and coolant plumbing, and electrical harnesses.
But I have an issue, and I've searched the forums looking for a solution, but I don't think anyone else has had this issue. The engine is too low in the front - it's 3-degrees down instead of up, and the trans is as low as it can be. My oil filter (PH11 equivalent) is hitting the power steering housing. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to raise the front of a SBF?
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
I'm running a 302 as well and mine is right where it needs to be. Of course, I'm not running power steering so I don't need to worry about clearance issues with the filter.
Question, where are measuring the 3 degree from? Don't use the intake's carb surface since that has a slope on it intentionally. Use either a plate across the harmonic pulley with you measuring device, or use the head surface where the valve cover sits to get the most accurate measurement.
May also want to look at the transmission tail mount to see if you can remove spacers or flip the mount over. May have to make a custom mount.
FWIW, FFR used to supply an (~0.5" thick) engine mount spacer for the Coyote. I wonder if something similar is available for your 302? If not FFR, then maybe Summit, Speedway, etc.?
Jim, you're right, I didn't think about the angle of the carb pad. I measured again on the head/valve cover flange as well as the balancer and get ~.5 degree down. The IRS differential driveshaft flange is ~2.5 degrees up. The yoke looks like it's just going to clear the chassis, so I don't think I can lower the trans mount. Since I need to clear the power steering housing I guess I'll raise the front of the engine to go from 0.5 degrees down to 2.5 up to correspond to the IRS diff flange angle.
Keith, The Windsor and Coyote user very similar mounts on the chassis side, and those spacers seem to be prevalent for Windsor to Coyote swaps, like this wedges. The other option is to do like Wallace18 did and put spacers between the motor mount and block (I'll probably do this).
I just find it strange that no one else seems to have run into this issue with what I would consider a common configuration (302/AOD).
-- Mike -- TxMike64 -- @TxMGarage Gen1.5 Hot Rod '33 #1094 (Stage 1) - 302/AOD '15 IRS - Quad Built - Build Thread
Jim, you're right, I didn't think about the angle of the carb pad. I measured again on the head/valve cover flange as well as the balancer and get ~.5 degree down. The IRS differential driveshaft flange is ~2.5 degrees up. The yoke looks like it's just going to clear the chassis, so I don't think I can lower the trans mount. Since I need to clear the power steering housing I guess I'll raise the front of the engine to go from 0.5 degrees down to 2.5 up to correspond to the IRS diff flange angle.
Keith, The Windsor and Coyote user very similar mounts on the chassis side, and those spacers seem to be prevalent for Windsor to Coyote swaps, like this wedges. The other option is to do like Wallace18 did and put spacers between the motor mount and block (I'll probably do this).
I just find it strange that no one else seems to have run into this issue with what I would consider a common configuration (302/AOD).
Glad you got the right measurement figured out. I can't help with the configuration, I went 302/T5
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Originally Posted by TxMike64
