Time to Design a New Shop

[Papa]

As many of you know, I'm moving to Missouri in a couple of weeks. I now have the opportunity to design and build another shop. Here is an initial design idea I've drafted up:







As drawn, the building is 50' wide x 30' deep with an additional 20' x 12' workshop and bathroom area. The center door on the front is 16' x 10' and the three smaller doors are 10' x 9'. The ceiling is 12' to accommodate a lift and the left bay is a drive-through for my tractor.

What would you all do differently? The size is constrained by the building envelope that I have, so I can't go bigger than the 1,740 square feet that I have with maybe some minor tweaks possible (a foot here or there).

[65 Cobra Dude]

I love it, one thing to consider is wall space for shelving and a work bench.

Henry

[progmgr1]

Since you plan to have a lift, I suggest you put your tools in roller cabinets. That way everything you need can be close at hand when you are working under the car. I didn't have the floor space available to go that way and hung all my tools on the walls or in wall anchored cabinets. I've regretted that decision every time the lift is up and I have to scoot out to grab another tool or part.

Keith HR #894

[RoadRacer]

Can you go up? When I built mine (at an old house) I had dormer windows put in and had an office/rec room above. Made a huge difference and a great place to take meetings, watch car movies, etc

I realized how awesome chains on a roller door were too, to save on ceiling space. My 4 post lift could just roll outside with my car on it.

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[Nigel Allen]

Provision to mount air compressor externally to reduce noise. Have a remote switch with indicator lamp. Mine is near entry door, so I don't forget to shut it off.

[Papa]

Since you plan to have a lift, I suggest you put your tools in roller cabinets. That way everything you need can be close at hand when you are working under the car. I didn't have the floor space available to go that way and hung all my tools on the walls or in wall anchored cabinets. I've regretted that decision every time the lift is up and I have to scoot out to grab another tool or part.

Keith HR #894

I will definitely consider roll-up doors. It will help with lighting options as well.

[Papa]

Since you plan to have a lift, I suggest you put your tools in roller cabinets. That way everything you need can be close at hand when you are working under the car. I didn't have the floor space available to go that way and hung all my tools on the walls or in wall anchored cabinets. I've regretted that decision every time the lift is up and I have to scoot out to grab another tool or part.

Keith HR #894

My toolbox rolls, but I also have a small rolling cabinet that I use for exactly what you described when working on a project under the car.

[Papa]

Can you go up? When I built mine (at an old house) I had dormer windows put in and had an office/rec room above. Made a huge difference and a great place to take meetings, watch car movies, etc

I realized how awesome chains on a roller door were too, to save on ceiling space. My 4 post lift could just roll outside with my car on it.

083106 001.jpg

I looked at some plans that have space above the main area, but the house is a 1-story, so going up will likely not be approved by the community. I should also mention that the attached garage is over 1,200 square feet!

[Jeff_J.]

Have you thought of exhaust and/or air circulation fan? Being from an area where it gets cold I always think about heat for the chilly months but insulation works for cool as well as heat. Colorado gets every kind of weather so I'm sure you have this covered.
Have fun with this Dave..

[Jeff Kleiner]

What would I have done differently? Radiant floor heat rather than forced air. Almost did it but went for cheap, easy and quick and regret it every winter. I don’t care about cooling for the summer months; I’d much rather have the doors up and be hot rather than cool with everything closed up. I put a washer and dryer in the bathroom for rags and filthy work clothes and am glad that I did (plus it goes a long way for marital harmony ).

Jeff

[Papa]

Have you thought of exhaust and/or air circulation fan? Being from an area where it gets cold I always think about heat for the chilly months but insulation works for cool as well as heat. Colorado gets every kind of weather so I'm sure you have this covered.
Have fun with this Dave..

I haven't looked at what sort of environmental controls I will use yet. I love the Modine heater I have in my shop now and it is cheap to operate through the winter. I was looking at mini-split systems to do both heat and A/C.

[Papa]

What would I have done differently? Radiant floor heat rather than forced air. Almost did it but went for cheap, easy and quick and regret it every winter. I don’t care about cooling for the summer months; I’d much rather have the doors up and be hot rather than cool with everything closed up. I put a washer and dryer in the bathroom for rags and filthy work clothes and am glad that I did (plus it goes a long way for marital harmony ).

Jeff

Another great option to consider. Thanks, Jeff.

[Jeff_J.]

2x on the in floor heat.

[RJD]

Since your car is done...wet bar, pool table, big screen TV, sofa, popcorn maker.

[Al_C]

What are you planning to build in it? I bet you could do a coupe, XTF and hot rod all at the same time... I think the plans look great!

[kirby]

If I could build mine again I would have made all my doors 10x10 minimum. Getting trailers or boats in is difficult.

I put a pull down ladder and storage area in my attic and it has been awesome!!

There is never enough lighting, spray foam the walls, blown cellulose in the attic. I am happy with my forced air furnace for my shop. I use a low temp thermostat and keep it at 35 in the winter and my shop heats up in about 15 minutes to 55.

What part of Missouri?

[Papa]

What are you planning to build in it? I bet you could do a coupe, XTF and hot rod all at the same time... I think the plans look great!

No new project plans at this time, but I won't rule out doing a Coupe at some point. I've also thought about the RCR GT40, but I may not be ready for that level yet.

[Papa]

If I could build mine again I would have made all my doors 10x10 minimum. Getting trailers or boats in is difficult.

I put a pull down ladder and storage area in my attic and it has been awesome!!

There is never enough lighting, spray foam the walls, blown cellulose in the attic. I am happy with my forced air furnace for my shop. I use a low temp thermostat and keep it at 35 in the winter and my shop heats up in about 15 minutes to 55.

What part of Missouri?

Mexico. I've been having fun telling people I'm moving to Mexico.

[Lidodrip]

I would echo Jeff's comments about radiant heat. If you are not sure, you could run pex tubing in the floor so you keep the option open for the future - it does not cost much and you lose nothing by doing so.

You might want to consider adding more natural light. Transom windows are a good solution (over garage doors, work bench areas) because they are up high (more effective) and do not significantly reduce usable wall space.

I wish I had paid more attention to how the electrician wired my garage - it would be nice to have 20 amp outlets (I have 15 amp). Also, give some thought as to where you might want 240v runs and lighting. Make sure you have wifi.

Finally, using 3/4 wood sheathing (plywood, OSB, etc) on the inside of the walls allows you to mount anything anywhere you want, freeing you from the constraints of needing to screw into studs. It is not that expensive to do and you can still cover it with sheetrock.

Such a fun project!

James

[J R Jones]

A lift (weight) requires a thicker floor or footings. Pick a bay (center) and have that floor poured heavy, the rest can be conventional.
Exhaust fans can be good for your health.
jim

[GoDadGo]

If you plan to get a two post lift, make sure your ceiling height is adequate to accommodate it.

https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com...ifts-s/494.htm

I'm sure your shop will be amazing.

[Bob Cowan]

The best thing I ever did in my garage was a deep sink with hot and cold faucets.

[Papa]

A lift (weight) requires a thicker floor or footings. Pick a bay (center) and have that floor poured heavy, the rest can be conventional.
Exhaust fans can be good for your health.
jim

I'll spec the slab for a lift. Based on what I see from BENDPAK, I'll need a minimum of 4.25" 3000 PSI for pretty much any 4-post lift that I would consider.

[Papa]

If you plan to get a two post lift, make sure your ceiling height is adequate to accommodate it.

https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com...ifts-s/494.htm

I'm sure your shop will be amazing.

Yep -- Been there, done that!



I'm looking at this one for the new shop:

https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/fo...lifts/gp-9xlt/

[rthomas98]

I highly recommend built in floor drains if you are allowed to do it. I did it in my garage at a recommendation from a friend best decision ever. able to easily wash and clean the floors. I even put water proof panelling on one of my walls so I can hang floor mats etc to power wash. No more waiting for the best day to do that kind of stuff.

[JimStone]

If I had the $$$, I'd want garage doors with full window panels. Let there be natural light!

[Papa]

If I had the $$$, I'd want garage doors with full window panels. Let there be natural light!

I love these lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They essentially turn the interior of the shop into daylight. Here are some pics:

#1 - Basic garage light



#2 - Two sets of fluorescent (4 bulbs each)



#3 - Five of the UFO lights (35,000 lumens each)

[Winchester67]

Welcome to Missouri! I am in Columbia...few car people around here!Garage 1.JPG

[Papa]

Welcome to Missouri! I am in Columbia...few car people around here!Garage 1.JPG

Cool! We're practically neighbors!

[Jeff Kleiner]

I love these lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They essentially turn the interior of the shop into daylight.

Dramatic difference Dave! I have to have a lot of light and replaced all of my fluorescents with 48" 10,000 lumen LED strips. Shop side has 9 on the ceiling and 4 on the walls for 130,000 total and the paint side has 7 on the ceiling and 8 on the sidewalls for 150,000. It's really is like daylight!



Jeff

[cob427sc]

My old garage was 30'x50' with 2 10x10' overhead doors, man door and 12' clear. How I miss that garage! I now have a 3 bay with 3, 9'x10' doors; 28' deepx32' wide, way to small for cars. tools, etc. I have most everytning on wheels including a roll around bench. I made one bay cathedral for the floor lift going up to i6' in height and the other bays are 10' high. Definitely go with the lumen strips. Makes all the difference in the world and add plenty of electrical outlets plus a couple of 240"s for the welder and other big tools. Good luck!

[Windsor]

I've heard roll-up doors are difficult to seal when you want to keep the outside temps outside.

You can do high-lift doors instead, Frank/i.e.427 has a video or two where he installed the door high-lift style in his new shop. Get a "direct drive" door opener so that you don't have a center track running right in the way of the lift. The direct drive opener will require power in the wall next to the door instead of the ceiling, so plan accordingly with your electrical.

Since you're talking Missouri, you may have to contend with humidity. Mini-split HVACs are relatively good for that but double-check the controls have a means to monitor/address humidity.

Lastly, what app are you using for modeling?

[Papa]

I've heard roll-up doors are difficult to seal when you want to keep the outside temps outside.

You can do high-lift doors instead, Frank/i.e.427 has a video or two where he installed the door high-lift style in his new shop. Get a "direct drive" door opener so that you don't have a center track running right in the way of the lift. The direct drive opener will require power in the wall next to the door instead of the ceiling, so plan accordingly with your electrical.

Since you're talking Missouri, you may have to contend with humidity. Mini-split HVACs are relatively good for that but double-check the controls have a means to monitor/address humidity.

Lastly, what app are you using for modeling?

Thanks for the comments. I did a high-lift track on the 14' back bay in my current shop and used header mount openers on both doors, which I definitely like. Thanks for the tip on the humidity controls. I've never seen a mini-split setup, but will do my research. The software I'm using for the design is DreamPlan Home Design, which has a free trial version you can order and download from Amazon. It's very basic, but enough to get some decent visuals. The non-trial version is $40.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1?ie=UTF8&th=1

[burchfieldb]

I would echo the comments on the led lights, heated floor, and spray foam insulation. I did the radiant floor heat and would do it again. No cold spots in the garage, the floor is warm when crawling around under the car, and it is really easy on the heating bill. I did do a sealed tankless water heater, since I also do wood working. I have a PTAC wall unit for emergency heat and for A/C when it is really hot, which is really nice when you need it. Those can be self installed, since they go through the wall. My garage is 24x32 with a 16ft ceiling in the center. I did a compressed installation that is the R value of a 2x6 wall in a 2x4 wall. I keep it at 60 degrees in the winter and the heater hardly runs. Especially when the lights are on, they keep the temp up above 60, unless it is really cold out. The heater might run once of twice on a cold day for 15 minutes. I would also echo adding a loft if you can and a pull down ladder for easy access. I used the space between the joist to store stuff, the beam to lift things and support the library ladder. I also built a cantilevered shelf for storage and plan on adding drawers below, between the supports, for more storage. There is a library ladder with that shelf as well for easy access. More windows is a double edge sword, if you add them you have less wall space, but you have more natural light.

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[Skuzzy]

I'll spec the slab for a lift. Based on what I see from BENDPAK, I'll need a minimum of 4.25" 3000 PSI for pretty much any 4-post lift that I would consider.

Be sure to check the forms before they pour the concrete. Lots of 20 amp outlets all high enough to put work benches under them. If you are doing an upright compressor, be sure to plan for a network of outlets. Putting that compressor outside, or in a closet, is an excellent idea. I wish I had done that when I built my garage.
You can never have too many lights. You will appreciate it when you lose that 10mm socket.

[narly1]

I love spending other people's money LOL. If you can spare the space in the washroom consider adding a shower stall to minimize tracking dirt and odour into the house. Ditch the vanity sink and just do a deep sink/laundry tub set-up just outside of the washroom. You can then wash your hands as well as paint brushes, etc. all in the one spot.

Earl

[narly1]

Also for the washroom walls/ceiling consider cladding the space with FRP panels like this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasline...5041/202085623

Add a floor drain and waterproof electrical and you could pressure wash the whole room to clean it LOL.

Earl

[cob427sc]

Most states but probably not all have outlawed floor drains because of what accidentally (or intentionally) ends up getting sent down the drain, like oil, antifreeze, brake fluid, etc., none of which are good to have in your septic/sewer or ground water. Funny thing is building codes won't allow for floor drains but many require the slab be pitched out the door. Guess they expect any spills will be cleaned up before they go out the door.

[Alan_C]

Since your car is done...wet bar, pool table, big screen TV, sofa, popcorn maker.

What, no beer frig?

[RJD]

What, no beer frig?

Standard equipment - didn't think it needed mentioning.