Clutch master cylinder question

[TXJosh]

Hello all
Due to some early disorganization (and inexperience and ignorance and…) I ordered
My MKiv complete kit with a clutch cable.

I am using a blueprint 347 stroker and tremec tkx which has the hydraulic throw out bearing pre-installed.

I need to buy a hydraulic master cylinder and cable set up to work with the Wilwood pedal box that came with the compete kit and is calibrated with the Tremex TKX clutch. Does anybody have specific suggestions for which set up from which supplier would be best? There appear to be many options out there.

I am also considering converting the TKX to an external slave set up, in which case I’ll use Mike Forte’s kit for sure - but I want to run down the other option first.

Appreciate your suggestions on which hydraulic kit will work for this pedal box / transmission combo.

Thank you

[Dgc333]

FFR supplied a .75" bore master cylinder for the clutch with my kit. It is likely hydraulic throw out bearing dependant but I need to have the clutch pedal about 2" higher than the brake pedal to get enough stroke on the throw out for complete clutch release. If I ever have to get under the dash I will likely replace the clutch master cylinder with a 1" bore unit. This will allow the clutch pedal to be adjusted lower and still get enough stroke on the throw out to release the clutch. The pedal effort will increase some but it is extremely light now so not an issue for me.

[edwardb]

Whatever hydraulic clutch setup you use (internal or external) the master cylinder (MC) required for the Wilwood pedal box will be determined by the combination of MC (or internal TOB). I have a Tilton internal TOB in my Coupe. It came with detailed instructions for determining the size of the MC. In my case it was a Wilwood 260-10373 13/16 inch MC and it works perfectly. Whatever Blueprint is providing should have something similar. If you buy the Forte external setup, he typically includes the MC. But I've used his system a couple times and found some fine tuning of the proper MC size improved it for me. I prefer the clutch and brake pedal to be at the same height. I'd be a little cautious about any specific recommendations. Your situation might be different. At roughly $100 each the Wilwood MC's aren't a king's ransom. But you still want to get it right the first time if possible. For sure get it sorted during the build. Not fun to change when everything is completed.

And just to be clear, your Wilwood pedal box is set up standard for a hydraulic clutch. There's nothing you need to do other than bolt in the third MC.

[Mike.Bray]

I have a Tilton 60-6102 HTB paired with a TIL-76-812 Tilton 13/16" master cylinder. I did the calcs and had Tilton check me, I found their technical department very good to work with. I'm very happy with how it feels and actuates.

FWIW, Factory Five supply "universal" 3/4" Wilwood master cylinders. I installed Wilwood brakes front & rear and went through the calcs for MC size and ended up with a 3/4" bore for the front and a 1" bore for the rear. Since I had to change the MC anyways I went with Tilton, Wilwood just aren't they used to be and I don't really want to be up under the dash trying to change one. I've always used Tilton hydraulic throwout bearings and master cylinders and never had any issues with them.

Another FWIW, avoid McLeod HTB like the plague, they have a high failure rate. This is one place where you want to stick with the good stuff.

[MaxVmo]

I’ll add a follow up question as I’ve got a similar setup—where are people routing the cable? I’m assuming inside driver foot box panel, but curious as to high/low etc? Thank you.

[TXJosh]

Thanks for the very helpful responses.

The blueprint 347 comes pre-connected with the tremec TKX and it has a McLeod HTB. Now I’m worried…

[Mike.Bray]

Thanks for the very helpful responses.

The blueprint 347 comes pre-connected with the tremec TKX and it has a McLeod HTB. Now I’m worried…

I would be.