Coyote Gen III with Wilwood clutch safety switch wiring

[nashuanuke]

If I use the Wilwood supplied clutch safety switch with my Gen III coyote as opposed to the Ford supplied switch, how do I wire it? I think the two switches are opposite, meaning the Wilwood switch opens the contact when depressed (pedal up) and the Ford switch closes the contact when depressed (pedal down). So do I remove the connection off the Coyote harness and wire it in, or do I use the Ron Francis harness like any other engine? And if I use the Ron Francis harness, I assume I need to do something with the Coyote harness wires? Given that, I'm inclined to do the first thing and cut the connection off of the Coyote harness wires and shrink them to the Wilwood switch. That way I'm basically conforming to the Coyote fitment instructions, minus using the Ford supplied safety switch and FFR cable clutch mounts (that didn't come with the kit). But before I start cutting things off, I figured I'd ask here.

[edwardb]

Both switches close when the clutch is pushed down. Completing the circuit. Those wires are mandatory for the Coyote system. The PCM won't signal the starter to turn without the connection closed. You could move the Coyote wires to the kit supplied switch. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. I've never been a big fan of that switch setup since it only requires the clutch to be slightly pushed (similar to the brake pedal) so the clutch is typically still engaged. I guess it's assumed that if you're making the effort to push the clutch pedal you're going to push it all the way to the floor and release the clutch. Routinely guys on here argue the clutch safety switch isn't needed. So there's that.

I'd much rather see (and have installed on my Coyote builds) the Coyote switch on the pedal box where it's closed when the clutch pedal is all the way down. Factory Five has brackets to mount it. But they're not mandatory. They didn't exist when I did my first Coyote build and I made my own. No big deal. In either case, the Ron Francis blue wires used for the clutch safety are not used.

[nashuanuke]

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I'd much rather see (and have installed on my Coyote builds) the Coyote switch on the pedal box where it's closed when the clutch pedal is all the way down. Factory Five has brackets to mount it. But they're not mandatory. They didn't exist when I did my first Coyote build and I made my own. No big deal. In either case, the Ron Francis blue wires used for the clutch safety are not used.

That's certainly my preference and I've asked FFR if they can send me one. The kit came with the hydraulic clutch bracket but not the one for the cable clutch, which I have. But thanks for the confirmation, it sounds like I can do it by wiring the Wilwood switch to the Coyote harness, it's just not preferred.

[nashuanuke]

That's certainly my preference and I've asked FFR if they can send me one. The kit came with the hydraulic clutch bracket but not the one for the cable clutch, which I have. But thanks for the confirmation, it sounds like I can do it by wiring the Wilwood switch to the Coyote harness, it's just not preferred.

They sent me the parts I needed
cable clutch coyote mod.jpg

[dbo_texas]

Yep those are the right parts. To mount it, use the clevis pin in the big hole (may need to enlarge the hole?), and tap a new hole into the clevis body to use as a 2nd mounting hole (for anti-rotation). I detailed it with some pics and video in my build thread post #109 if you need a reference. I suggest marking the Ford switch where it first closes the circuit and then full stop so you can adjust the position of the switch mounting bracket (that's what the slots are for). You can see the blue lines on my pictures/videos. I used a digital multimeter just touching the contacts and it beeps when the circuit closes.

[nashuanuke]

Yep those are the right parts. To mount it, use the clevis pin in the big hole (may need to enlarge the hole?), and tap a new hole into the clevis body to use as a 2nd mounting hole (for anti-rotation). I detailed it with some pics and video in my build thread post #109 if you need a reference. I suggest marking the Ford switch where it first closes the circuit and then full stop so you can adjust the position of the switch mounting bracket (that's what the slots are for). You can see the blue lines on my pictures/videos. I used a digital multimeter just touching the contacts and it beeps when the circuit closes.

interesting, you have the cable clutch version mounted on your hydraulic clutch, I had the hydraulic clutch mounts but needed the cable.

hydraulic clutch mounts.jpg