Wedel456's Build Thread - Gen3 Coupe - North Carolina

[wedel456]

Reserved for Table of Contents:

1. Preface
2. Ordering & Build Specs:
   
   1. The Build
   2. Delivery, First Impressions, Inventory, and Car Dolly Build
   3. Tool Suggestions
3. The Build:
   
   1. Suspension:
      
      1. Suspension Prep (Painting)
      2. Front Suspension
      3. Center Section Installation
      4. IRS Suspension Installation
   2. Panels:
      
      1. Under Bonnet Panels
      2. More Custom Panels (interior Panels)
      3. Thought Capsule - Panel Finishing
      4. Aluminum Panels
      5. Trunk Box Fabrication
      6. Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening
      7. Panel Finishing and Off to the Upholsterer
      8. First Round of Upholstery is Back
      9. Installing First Panels
   3. Dash:
      
      1. Instrument Panel Planning and Related Items
      2. Dash Development and Customizations
      3. Dash Completed
      4. Switch Panel
      5. Finalized Dash Wiring
   4. Brakes:
      
      1. Brake and Clutch Reservoirs
      2. Pedal Box and Brake Lines
      3. Electronic Parking Brake Rear Retrofit Brake Kit
   5. Engine, Transmission, Radiator, Tires, Etc:
      
      1. Engine and Transmission Package
      2. Radiator Tunnel
      3. Tires - The meat has been delivered
      4. Driveshaft Safety Loop
   6. Electrical:
      
      1. Thought Capsule: Switches, Lighting control, Buttons, etc
      2. Thought Capsule: Electrical and Main Power
      3. Thought Capsule: Relays
      4. LED Lighting
      5. Ron Francis Mounting
      6. Starting a Digital Guard Dawg PBS System without Brake Requirement

[wedel456]

I'm diving headfirst into the world of car building with a Coupe – to start, at least! This journey has been a long time coming, sparked by my teenage days when my sister's boyfriend gifted me a '67 Mustang (too many years ago now to mention). That car, humble as it was (a straight 6 200 CID 3 speed that could not get out of its own way), ignited a love for cars that's been simmering beneath the surface ever since. My dad has since given me his 1971 Chevy C10 short bed with a 350.

Life's been a whirlwind since then—work (I am a technology executive and past Mayor/City Council Member), kids, and personally building my last house took precedence. But a couple of years back, my family and I made the move from California to North Carolina, and now, with a bit more time on my hands, I couldn't resist the temptation of the Spring sale to finally pull the trigger on my Coupe.

Scheduled for kit completion on June 15th, I've got Stewart Transport lined up to oversee the delivery. In the meantime, I've been devouring every Coupe build thread and YouTube video I can find. Shoutout to the legends on this forum like @EdwardB and @P100DHG, and the Cobra Daytona Build on YouTube for the invaluable inspiration and guidance!

I'm hoping to share this experience with my old man, too – fingers crossed for him lending a hand every now and then, passing on his wisdom and getting his hands dirty alongside me.

[wedel456]

Complete Coupe Kit
Powder Coating Gen 3 Coupe Chassis
Body Cut Outs
Vinyl Roadser Seats (will be selling as I am still selecting my seat options now that Corbeau Evolution X do not appear to fit any more)
IRS
Center Section and Spindles
Carpet Kit – Still determining what sections will be utilized as I plan on wrapping some areas in Vinyl/Leather
Side Windows
Aero Vents
Front and Rear Sway Bars
Wilwood Front and Rear Brakes
GPS Gauges
Wood Steering Wheel – I plan on having matching wood knobs (A/C, Wipers) a la @P100DHG
Halibrand 18" wheels
Windshield wipers (Battery Cut off Switch
Hydrolic Clutch Master Cylinder Kit
351W Install Kit
351W Headers
FF Stainless Side Exhaust
Power Steering
A/C

Engine / Transmission:
Like @P100DHG, my initial thought was to bite the bullet and go with the 5.2 but an Aluminator (not Voodoo). I also looked at the Gen 3 (and now 4) Coyote, too. While I truly do understand the augments for going this path, I just could not get over the old school power, sounds, and smells that come from a push rod engine. After reading through @P100DHG’s build, and listening to his YouTubes, I eventually settled on a:

427 Stroker – 575 HP from Proformance Unlimited with Sniper 2 and a TKX

Add-Ons:
Wilwood Electronic E-brake
Digital Guard Dog Keyless Ignition
New Vintage Toggle Switch Panel
Lizard Skin Heat and Sound (updated to RattleMat - Thought Capsule: Sound and Head Deadening)
Russ Thompson Turn Signal
LED lighting upgrades throughout – including adding reverse lights
BRE mirror kit
BOIG Cool Tubes
Rear view mirror backup camera kit – still looking for the one I want to order.

Seats:
Currently looking at Braum ORUE Series -
Anyone have experience with these? They have similar size measurements as the Corbeau Evolution X; however, the head rest is smaller, and I think it will let the seat go back further based upon pictures I have seen on this forum.

[korbar]

Where in NC are you at, I am a bit north of Charlotte.

[wedel456]

I am in Marvin. We should connect. PM me if you are interested.

[460.465USMC]

Welcome aboard, wedel! You spec'd-out a build with some great options. Thanks for the link to the seats you're considering. I deleted the F5 seats from my order, and haven't yet decided what to buy.

I think your 427 stroker should give enough ooomph to put a smile on your face. What are you doing for transmission?

[wedel456]

Thanks Chris. Getting hard to wait for the kit to arrive. Been following your garage build and prep tread, too. Look forward to seeing your progress.

My father has a red-eye charger and other high HP toys. This build should be a fun one, too.

As for your question: going with the TKX.

[wedel456]

Delivery:
My complete Coupe kit was completed on June 15th, and Stewart Transport handled the delivery without a hitch - loading the car on the truck on June 21st and Delivery on June 27th. Seeing the truck arrive with my Coupe was an incredible moment. I felt a mixture of anxiousness to see the car and nervousness about what I got myself into. The delivery went off mostly without a hitch, although I had to obtain a trailer the night before due to the busy street I live on, which allowed us to offload the 46 boxes that were delivered. The driver, who was awesome, drove the truck to our driveway to deliver the body/frame and hood. We had to block off a busy country road for 45 minutes. The driver was very helpful and worked with me to offload everything. I could not speak more highly of the delivery process and the driver.

Factory Five Truck.jpg

First Impressions:
When I first saw the Coupe, I was in awe. The car is beautiful, full stop. It looks so much better in person, too. This is the first time I have seen one in person and had only online versions to compare it to, and boy, was I surprised at how sexy it is. I was also impressed by the fit and finish of the frame. The welds across the frame look straight and uniform with little spatter. While I will not know more until much later in the process, the body looks great. I did not see any obvious gouging or fiberglass issues.

Body.jpg

Close Up.jpg

Car Front.jpg

Inventory:
I had to travel with the family over the 4th of July holiday so the inventory process was delayed a week. Had just enough time to get the car into the garage and the dolly built. The inventory process was much easier than I expected and only took about a 1/2 day complete, even with 46 boxes. I went through every box and counted every part, screw, bolt, etc. I already knew there were a few backordered parts (the biggest one being the rims; however, I will not need those for a while). However, during the inventory process, I found a few items that were missing that were supposed to be there. Again, this will not be major for now, as the only major item is the Ron Francis fuse box and wiring. I will have to ping Factory Five about this oversight (I am sure it will not be an issue).

Car Dolly Build:
I do not have a lift so I decided to build a car dolly, which was slow and steady. It was built out of 2x4s with house framing reinforcements. I used four high-weight rollers, two swivel locking casters in the front, and two non-swiveling ones in the rear. The frame is resting on the jack points in the front and back of the car on all four corners and is restrained with plywood blocking. I need to find some mechanism to ensure the frame does not move on the dolly (probably going to use PVC conduit clamps). The build took about half a day as I had to refine the design a few times to ensure the dolly was strong enough to support the car and parts that are installed before I can drop it on tires. I had to add a few cross braces in the back to ensure the dolly stays together and the wheels do not slide out from underneath it.

Dolly.jpg

[wedel456]

Hey everyone, just a quick heads-up—there’s going to be a rapid-fire series of updates over the next week! I’ve been putting in a lot of hours on the project since my last post -the summer slipped away as I was hoping to provide an ongoing update. I have put well in to the three figures of hours at this point. Not sure how some are able to do this this quickly.....

One thing I've learned so far is that while Factory Five provides a list of tools necessary to get the Coupe built, there are quite a few others that would be incredibly helpful for those thinking about starting one of these builds. I’ve been busy not only prepping and painting parts but also ordering those extras and additional tools that will make the build process smoother.

(links are the tools I purchased)

If you’re planning on adding any custom panels or brackets (like a drop trunk, engine bay, instrument panel, etc.), I STRONGLY recommend getting a band saw and belt sander. These tools will save you hours and preserve your sanity. This is in addition to what others have mentioned about needing a metal brake.

I’d also suggest investing in a nice tap and die set. While I moved away for just doing frame taping and have utilized RivNuts and had to get a tool for that, too And no matter how many clamps you think you'll need—get more. You can never have enough! If you’re as particular about symmetry as I am, make sure you have a nice, long (but not too long) carpenter or T-square. I have a few different sizes, and they’ve all been useful.

The tool I use most—and there are multiple manufacturers out there—is a Kreg Multi-Mark. It’s extremely helpful for getting precise measurements. Lastly, I highly recommend a right-angle power driill (I am a huge fan of Metabo). While many people try to use right-angle adapters, I find them awkward and difficult to use, so a dedicated tool is well worth the investment.

I’ll dive into more details about why these tools have been essential in my next posts. Stay tuned—lots more to come quickly detailing my build to date.

[wedel456]

Back at the end of July, I began prepping all the parts that will be painted as part of my build. I decided to add a touch of color to the underbody of the Coupe—specifically TCP Global Swift Red. The decision to go with this color was inspired by the idea of giving the underbody a little extra character while still maintaining a clean and professional look.

This marks a significant step for me, as it’s my first venture into painting at this scale. To ensure the best results, I invested in my very first paint gun for this project. It’s been exciting (and a little intimidating) getting everything ready, but I’m eager to see how it all turns out.

The prep work has been methodical, ensuring each part is cleaned, scuffed, and ready to take the paint evenly. I’ve been taking my time to make sure the finish comes out as close to perfect as I can get it - will provide a little more information on this as I post more about the installation process and what I would do differently. In the end it came out great but I would cut things to make it easier.

Looking forward to sharing how this process unfolds and, of course, the final results! Here is a pic of things drying:

IMG_5840.jpg

[wedel456]

I am skipping the obligatory safety wire post - here is the tool I purchased - but I will say my fingers are still reeling from this first time experience..... Also, as others have noted, for those doing this the first time, the brake rotor torque specs are in INCH pounds. Had to go down and get another tool at the last minute.

After completing the painting process, I moved on to the suspension and brake installation. The power steering went in without any issues. As others previously mentioned, just make sure that you install the bolts in the right direction, just in case there is an issue in the future and you need to remove them.

Unlike some other builds I’ve read about, the spacing of all the mounting brackets on my kit was perfect—I didn’t have to spread or adjust any of them. The installation went smoothly overall, but one word of advice: double-check that you have the steering arms installed on the correct side. I made that mistake at first, and boy, was it a pain to find the replacement lock nuts and remove the nut (for whatever reason).

Once that was completed, I moved forward with the installation of the front sway bar. Here was the first problem I ran into—same issue that I discovered @RSnake ran into, too. Since I painted the sway bar, it required a few washers for the bushings. Once I figured that out, the bar went in great.

As you can see, all the suspension parts have been painted in TCP Global Swift Red, including the shocks, but excluding the hub (where I removed the rear ring) and the steering arms—those were painted with TCP Global Jet Black. For the shocks, I spent time carefully sanding off the existing coating to ensure a smooth surface. I then applied TCP Global Swift Red and finished with a clear coat for durability and shine. The process turned out great, with only a very small scratch appearing when I installed the threaded tube over the shocks.

Front Suspension.jpg

For the tie rod ends, I chose to upgrade to Moog ES2150R, which I found to be a worthwhile improvement (IMO). Additionally, I replaced the boots on the kit-provided ball joints. One of the boots delivered with the kit had a slice in it, so I upgraded them to ensure better durability - choose red to match - Energy Suspension 5.13102R has the boots for both.

So, here is what I would do differently:

1. I would not paint the upper control arm, at least not the way I did it. I measured everything out and had the alignment close, as per the instructions; however, I’m sure this will become an issue in the future as the alignment is set fully with the threads showing wear. I also would not paint any of the brackets. This process was a major pain to get just right and, honestly, I’m not sure how well it will hold up over time. If (and hopefully when) I do another build, I would only paint the middle adjustment arm. It would still look great and save a lot of time.
2. 
   I would not use the kit-provided ball joints. Getting them into the control arm was a massive headache. While I did eventually get them installed and functioning, I would recommend using the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints that others have suggested. They would have saved me time—and many fewer dollars in the swear jar.

Overall I am glad how the paint turned out in the front. Will be interested to see how it holds up. I have been watching the @RSnake videos on YouTube and his car appears to be holding his white very well.

[Smiley]

It looks good, but I can see where the painted threads might be an issue later on.

[wedel456]

I wish I had better things to say about the installation of the center section. After painting it with TCP Global Jet Black and clear coating it, I thought I was ready to tackle the next step. I’d watched @RSnake’s video on the installation multiple times, and it seemed pretty straightforward. I even thought it would be a good idea to get my 14-year-old daughter involved, turning it into a family project. Well, that was a mistake.

No matter how many times I watched the video, I couldn’t quite grasp how @RSnake made it look so easy. It turned out to be way more difficult than I anticipated. I quickly realized that I needed more hands on deck to get this right. So, I had to wait until my two uncles and father were in town for a vacation before I could attempt this again. Even with the four of us working on it, it still took way too long to get everything in place.

After about an hour and a half, and almost giving up a few times, not to mention sweating enough to fill a bucket in the dang southern humidity, we finally got everything aligned correctly and torqued down. It was a frustrating task, and I can only chalk it up to the challenge of aligning and securing the center section properly. But, in the end, we got it done. It was a big lesson in the importance of preparation and having the right team on hand for tough tasks.

I wish I had some words of advice for others attempting this for the first time without fancy lifts or special equipment, but I don’t. Even after reflecting on this experience and writing up this update, I still have no clue why it was so hard with four grown men or why it was such a struggle to get everything aligned properly. My only hope is that your experience goes a lot smoother than mine did. I was so frustrated at the time of installation I failed to take pics; however, here is what it looks like today (apologies for the dust as I have been doing some Bondo sanding (more on this in another post):

Center Section 2.jpg

Center Section 1.jpg

[wedel456]

Wanted a little change of pace at this point and moved on to some of the custom panels I wanted to make under the hood. I really liked the idea of the @P100DHG build and what @Rsnake did on his build, so I set out to do something that incorporated both of their ideas, with my own twists.

I looked around locally but was unable to find the same Aluminum Sheet 6061 T3 as the Factory Five panels, so I found a good deal at Zoro and purchased what I thought I would need.

My design plan was to cover the top chassis area under the hood with panels (the ones right behind the radiator and in front of the foot boxes on both sides of the car). In addition to that, I really liked the idea of all the reservoirs poking out of them, providing a custom look. The brake and clutch reservoirs will be on the drivers side panel next to the foot box and the power steering and coolant overflow will be on the passenger side next to the radiator tunnel - this will be covered in another post.

My first step was to create templates. Rather than using Ram Board, I used some of my daughter's extra poster board. Once I was happy with the design, I cut them out of the 6061 using my band saw and belt sander (I cannot speak more highly of these tools as I feel it would have been a much harder job—if not impossible—to complete without them).

Once everything was fitted to the car, I used my Harbor Freight brake to bend the front portion of the covers (the front bar in front of the radiator tunnel). This was not a fun experience. Either I do not know what I am doing (which is a strong possibility), I am not strong enough (again, another possibility), or the 6061 T3 is not meant for this brake. After many attempts to get the bend just right, bingo. As you will see shortly, it looks dang good.

Under Hood Panels.jpg

I then moved on to mounting. My initial thought was to drill, tap, and use 10-32 polished (more on this in a later post) flange head screws—in fact, that’s what I did to start. BUT... I did not end up liking that idea and decided to go with aluminum rivnuts instead - decided to use thin wall ribbed low profile from Albany County Fasteners (no strength needed here just functionality) . To make this easier, I purchased a rivnut installation tool, which made the process much smoother.

Does not appear that I took a picture at the time I installed the rivnuts; however, here is a more recent pic that shows what it looks like with the panels off:

RivNuts.jpg

For those of you who are looking to do this on your car: I spent many hours on this project. I am nuts about symmetry, so I had lines going across the under-hood area from the driver's to passenger side to ensure the screws were in alignment. I do not have the final panels to show yet, but I can tell you that this time and effort pays off:

Screw Alighnment.jpg

[wedel456]

It looks good, but I can see where the painted threads might be an issue later on.

100! Looks dang good at this point, though

[wedel456]

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw, sanded them smooth with the belt sander, and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's.

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel using 1/4" flat screws and lock nuts. However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel with a lock nut.

Reservoir Brackets.jpg

After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel, and cleaned that up with the belt sander (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

Res Bracket.jpg

You’ll notice that the spacing on the bracket isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

Reservoir Bracket Complete.jpg

I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos, I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

Res Panel Holes.jpg

My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

[PNWTim]

Looks good! If you don't want to use a stainless ring which may be very difficult to find without fabbing it you could probably find the right sized nitrile o-ring, slice the outside edge and place it in there for a finished look.

[Namrups]

Back at the end of July, I began prepping all the parts that will be painted as part of my build. I decided to add a touch of color to the underbody of the Coupe—specifically TCP Global Swift Red. The decision to go with this color was inspired by the idea of giving the underbody a little extra character while still maintaining a clean and professional look.

This marks a significant step for me, as it’s my first venture into painting at this scale. To ensure the best results, I invested in my very first paint gun for this project. It’s been exciting (and a little intimidating) getting everything ready, but I’m eager to see how it all turns out.

The prep work has been methodical, ensuring each part is cleaned, scuffed, and ready to take the paint evenly. I’ve been taking my time to make sure the finish comes out as close to perfect as I can get it - will provide a little more information on this as I post more about the installation process and what I would do differently. In the end it came out great but I would cut things to make it easier.

Looking forward to sharing how this process unfolds and, of course, the final results! Here is a pic of things drying:

IMG_5840.jpg

This will give you an idea of what yours will look like! Great minds think alike!

[burchfieldb]

I am using the kit-provided clutch and brake reservoirs. In the last post, I mentioned where they were going to be installed—in the panel right in front of the driver's footbox.

For those of you who have these or have installed them previously, you know the provided installation brackets have ears, and you use button head screws to install them vertically. Well, the space in this location wouldn't support that. As such, I decided I needed to make my own bracket. I cut the ears off using my band saw, sanded them smooth with the bench sander, and purchased 1/8" (I thought 1/16" would be too flimsy, but 1/8" worked well) L-channel from Lowe's.

My initial thought was to drill through the Factory Five-provided brackets and then mount them to the L-channel using 1/4" flathead screws and lock nuts. However, I was concerned that this could result in some movement. Since this was going to be installed through the top panel, I decided to drill and tap the holes—meaning the screw would go through the provided brackets and then be held to the L-channel with a lock nut.

Reservoir Brackets.jpg

After this, I used the band saw to eliminate the material required for the reservoirs to be installed on the L-channel, and cleaned that up with the bench sander (don't have a picture with it done but here is the pre completed picture to illustrate):

Res Bracket.jpg

You’ll notice that the spacing on the brackets isn’t consistent. This was intentional to make it obvious which is for the front and rear brakes and which is for the clutch.

Reservoir Bracket Complete.jpg

I then determined where the reservoirs and bracket would mount and drilled holes for future 3/8" rivet mounting. Make sure there’s enough room to get a drill bit and rivet tool in there. Also, ensure the bracket is installed low enough to allow for engine vibration, even when it's in place.

Once held in with Clecos, I used a 2.5" hole drill bit to drill through a piece of 3/4" plywood. I then used the round piece of plywood as a guide by placing it into each reservoir mounting bracket and drilling a pilot hole through the top panel. Once the pilot hole was completed, I used the same hole cutting bit to drill the hole large enough for the reservoirs to poke through the panel. It came out AWESOME! - obviously they will be installed level but will work on that during the final installation process:

Res Panel Holes.jpg

My original plan was to do a round-over punch, but the holes were too close together for that to work. I’m thinking about using some sort of ring around them—possibly stainless or something similar—but have been unable to find something that works. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! For now, check this box as done.

I ended up machining a trim ring for mine.

II 20240408_163510.jpgI 20240408_163447.jpg

I liked your mounting solution, that was a bit of a challenge.

[burchfieldb]

If you have to pull the rear diff out again, an engine hoist and ratchet straps works well. I had to do it several times with mine, since the pinion angle was pointed down to the floor. It was still a pain as you experienced.

[wedel456]

Next, I moved on to the power steering and coolant reservoir mounting. As I discussed in a previous post, I planned on placing them on the passenger side in the area next to the radiator tunnel, poking out through the panel above.

This step presented some unique challenges due to the height of the Factory Five coolant reservoir, the overhang of the radiator tunnel duct upper piece, and the design of the front right wheel splash guard. The Factory Five coolant reservoir is very tall and doesn't lend itself to many placement options that are hidden to the greatest extent possible.

I ended up installing the coolant reservoir as far to the driver’s side as possible without it hitting either side of the frame. This was the only location where the bottom of the reservoir cleared all brackets and the frame. It also had to be aligned just right for the fittings at the bottom to function properly. I created a mounting bracket with the same 1/8-inch L-channel from Lowe’s but had to mount it to the bottom of the 1" frame—this is due to the space limitations noted above—and it will be connected to the frame using SS 3/16 rivets. No need to cut the ears off the provided chrome bracket for the unit.

Coolant.jpg
*Temp screws for the bracket attachment are being utilized. Have not decided what to use as of yet.

Originally, I thought some space between the two reservoirs would look and function better. As such, I installed the power steering reservoir away from the coolant reservoir. However, once I did this and looked at the front passenger splash guard, I realized that the bottom of the power steering reservoir would hit the panel. No bueno:

Inital Power Steering Location.jpg

To fix this, I moved the mounting location closer to the coolant reservoir and modified the L-channel bracket and filled the previous holes in the frame with JB Weld (will add a little paint when doing final assembly). There was just enough room between the two to drill holes and just enough clearance below to fit both units. It took some fine-tuning, but the reservoirs now fit snugly and function as intended and provide enough spacing to poke two holes through the top panel.

Final Power Steering Location.jpg
I then used the same 2.5" hole technique to poke the reservoirs through the top panel. I couldn’t be happier with the look. Please note: the black power steering reservoir is a temporary unit provided by my engine builder. The permanent one will be chrome to match and will be delivered with the engine.

Power and Coolant.jpg

For now, project completed.

[wedel456]

If you have to pull the rear diff out again, an engine hoist and ratchet straps works well. I had to do it several times with mine, since the pinion angle was pointed down to the floor. It was still a pain as you experienced.

Yeah, thought of that; however, I do not have an engine hoist. Funny, no matter how much garage space you have, you never have enough..... Just do not have the storage space.

[wedel456]

After finishing the panel creation, I returned to installing the suspension components. I’ll spare everyone the usual step-by-step details of spindle modifications, but yes, I did cut off the ear as directed and drilled the necessary hole larger. I also took some extra time to grind down the casting lines on the spindles. Zero percent of people will ever notice this detail, but I couldn’t leave it alone—it just had to be clean. The effort paid off, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

As with the front suspension, I painted all the rear suspension parts in TCP Global Swift Red, keeping the visual theme consistent. The spindles and CV axles, however, were painted in TCP Global Jet Black for contrast. The combination looks incredible and will tie in perfectly with the overall aesthetic I’m going for.

Unlike my luck with the front mounting brackets, I did run into spacing problems with the mounting brackets. Almost all of them were either too close together and/or the mounting holes were slightly out of alignment. To address this, I used the threaded rod, washer, and nut technique recommended by others, along with a metal file to adjust the hole locations as needed. Once the alignment issues were resolved, everything went in smoothly.

For the CV axles, I initially struggled to get them to seat correctly. I watched @RSnake’s video on YouTube, where he suggested using a piece of wood pressed against the back of the CV at the center section to avoid damaging the boot. While that seemed like a good idea, I decided to stick with the manual’s instructions and used a soft-blow hammer instead. With that, the axles went in without further issues.

Once everything was seated, I torqued all the bolts down and moved on to installing the brakes and calipers. The process was straightforward, and overall, this step went smoothly.

As you’ll see in the picture below, I’m using a 1" wheel spacer recommended by @EdwardB. This adjustment ensures proper alignment and spacing for the wheels. Additionally, and more on this later, you’ll notice that I did not install the e-brake. I’ll be using an alternative solution rather than the kit-provided setup.

IRS.jpg

[wedel456]

Next, I dove into the fitment of the radiator tunnel, which turned out to be an interesting step in the process. First suggestion: GET MORE CLECOS! Seriously, you can never have enough. If you think you have enough, get more—trust me on this one.

I started by mounting the panels and drilling the hole locations into the frame. A quick note for anyone tackling this for the first time: don’t panic when you notice gaps between the frame and the radiator duct sides at the top. I spent more time than I’d like to admit flipping back and forth between the manual and online pictures just to confirm that this was normal. It took a while for me to feel confident about moving forward.

For this stage, I decided to use the Breeze Fan Shroud kit, which has been widely recommended on the forums. However, if you plan to move forward with the Breeze addition, here’s something you need to know: the shroud is slightly larger than the radiator itself. This creates a challenge when mounting the unit, as there isn’t enough "meat" on either the shroud or radiator to drill and mount the top and bottom edges directly. To complicate matters, the radiator almost rests against the back of the radiator duct, which prevents the shroud from sitting any lower.

After reviewing other forum posts, I identified two options:

1. Cut the shroud to fit the drilling areas at the top and bottom
2. Create a mounting piece at the top that sandwiches the shroud to the radiator.

I decided to go with option 2. Here's how I tackled it:

I drilled the holes at the bottom of the radiator shroud and the radiator, then installed 10-32 Rivnuts in the radiator for mounting. (I’ll be using stainless steel flange-head screws for this.). For the top mounting, I fabricated a piece of 6061 T3 aluminum cut to the width of the shroud and about 3/4" in height. This piece sandwiches the shroud to the radiator and is secured with polished SS 1/8 rivets. Unfortunately, I don’t have pictures of the top mounting bracket yet, but I’ll document this fully as part of the final install and link it back for reference (I used @EdwardsB tequnique found here).

Radiator Rivnuts.jpg

This solution worked well and provided a solid fit. If you’re planning on using the Breeze kit, be prepared for this extra step to ensure a proper installation.

For the actual mounting bracket from the radiator, I also decided to utilize some heavy duty 5/16 rivnuts along with 5/16 SS button head screws and washers rather than the bolt through and nylon lock nuts. Project completed:

Fan Shroud.jpg

[wedel456]

I started with the pedal box mockup. My intention wasn’t to leave the pedals in place during the build, knowing they would get in the way for other tasks. Instead, I mocked them up initially to make sure everything was aligned correctly, which also allowed me to run my brake lines.

However, I ran into an issue with the pedal box installation. The top mount bracket for the pedal box didn’t fit properly at all. After reviewing the bracket and comparing it to others’ setups, I noticed the hole and bend alignment was off. The bracket wouldn’t sit flat on the pedal box and the crossbar, which also prevented the pedal box from sitting flat.

Braket Misalignment.jpg

After reaching out to Factory Five Tech Support, they assured me it wasn’t a problem and suggested drilling through the bracket even if the pedals were a little out of alignment. I just couldn’t let that go, so I decided to address the issue myself. I created my own support bracket out of 1.5-inch, 1/8-inch thick L-channel aluminum. After drilling the holes, I painted it black to match the other components. This new bracket only captures two of the holes, but based on my discussions with Factory Five Tech Support, I was assured that since this is a support bracket, it wouldn't be an issue.

Moving on to the master cylinder installation, I followed advice from the @Rsnake video and opted to replace the kit-provided equipment with a 5/8" master cylinder (part number: 260-10371).

My goal here was to have the brake lines disappear, to the greatest extent possible. As such:

1. I decided not to use stainless steel here and just used normal Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Lines in black (again to disappear). However, after getting these, much like the kit-provided lines, they have a different definition of black than I do. After I bent all the lines, I put down a coat of TCP Global Jet Black and Clear (I know, WAY overkill).
2. AGS Steel Tube Nuts in black
3. Black anodized 3/16 P-clamps from Ractronix and replaced the included 8-32 SS screw with a black stainless.

I will also end up panting all the brackets the TCP Global Jet Black. I tried to find the brake line Ts in black but could not find any so I am using the provide brass ones. Looks great IMHO.

Now that the pedal box was in place, it was time for the brake lines. I followed much of @EdwardB’s path for the brake line routing. The front lines come out the engine side of the driver’s side foot box (rather than the outside) and run under the frame. From there, I followed the same path as @EdwardB across the bottom and up to the passenger side.

Front Drivers Brakeline.jpg Drivers Brake Line.jpg Pass Brake Line.jpg

For the rear, the line runs through the very top of the driver’s side transmission cockpit panel (I cut a hole there for both the clutch and brake lines). The line then follows the driver’s side of the transmission tunnel and exits out to the back. I wasn’t satisfied with any of the mounting solutions for the rear lines, so I created my own mounting brackets out of L-channel aluminum. I added P-clamps to the brackets using the 8-32 SS Black Screws and nuts (thinking about a different solution for this) and ran the lines out of the corners. I did not take enough pictures at the time but here is a combo of the initial install and what it looks like today:

Brake Bracket Location Rear.jpg Rear Brake Lines.jpg Rear Passthrough.jpg

Overall, very happy with how everything came out.

[wedel456]

Before moving on to the fuel lines, I needed to create a custom panel to mount the bulkhead fittings. While doing so, I also wanted to conclude the custom panels for the build. This includes panels in the passenger and driver side footwells and the outside cockpit walls, right above where the exhaust will be placed.

First, I started with the panel for the fuel lines. I copied much of what others have done, including @EdwardB, and created a panel to cover the area where the fuel lines enter the car. This provided a clean, organized look, and everything fit well.

I also created a template out of cardboard for the middle space in the engine bay to cover up the opening to the transmission tunnel (not sure how, but I took zero pictures of this... I will post pictures later during the final mockup). Once the template was done, I lined everything up and drilled the holes in the panel that were not exactly centered. I know it will be blocked by the engine, and no one would ever notice I had to redo the panel. Luckily, I did not drill the holes at that point. Once that was completed (correctly this time), I drilled the holes and then lined up and drilled the holes from the bulkhead fittings. Do not have a picture (for what ever reason) of what this looked like at the time. Will attach this to the frame using polished stainless steel rivets, but this will be covered in a future post. Will post pictures of the final product during final assembly of the engine bay and link it here.

Next, I moved on to the inside panels. I was really inspired by the @P100DHG build. He created custom panels for the inside footwells that were avant-garde, but I decided to go in a slightly different direction. Using the same cardboard, I created footwell templates and then cut out the design using sheet metal that I had laying around from a home A/C project—no need for thicker panels, as these will be purely visual.

Custom Panel Templates.jpg

For the driver's side, the panels will mount using 10-32 rivnuts and screws (I’ll decide on the color once everything is done) at the bottom. Above the panels, I’ll connect them using 3M double-sided tape. I had thought of using a tapped hole or something else, but there is VERY little space between this custom panel and the other side footwell cover, so I opted for this solution.

Drivers Footwell.jpg
*will fill the holes at the top with JB Weld prior to covering

For the passenger side, I did not run the panel the entire height of the footwell for two reasons:

1. You will never be able to see above the heater coil
2. I wanted to be able to remove the panel in the future if needed and take it out by pulling it through the cockpit.

I attached the panel using 10-32 rivnuts and screws (again, I’ll decide on the color once everything is done) and had to create some brackets in the back to support the panel. The brackets were made out of L-channel aluminum and installed with 1/8 rivets. No need to paint the brackets, as they will never be seen once the panel is installed.

Passanger Footwell.jpg Passanger Footwell Outside.jpg

The last interior panel I wanted to work on is something I am surprised I have not seen in other builds. It’s the area in the driver's side footwell under the dash area. This is the space where you can see through to where the pedal box is located, and most people place the Ron Francis harness there. I’ve just always thought that looks a little messy, so I decided to create a panel to cover that location. After templating, I cut a hole for the steering passthrough and cut out the upper right-hand corner to allow for all electrical lines to run (more on this in a future post). I attached the panel using 10-32 rivnuts (again, I’ll need to decide on the color once everything is done).

Under dash panel.jpg
*excuse the wring mess. This is what it looks like today as I am just starting wiring.

I will be covering all of these panels using the same material that I use to cover the dash. This will be something that matches the seats I plan to use.

Lastly, I spent some time making a carboard template of the areas outside the cockpit wall above the exhaust. This is in hopes of cutting down on the sound and heat as I will be installing sound and heat deadening on the back. These panels were made of 6061 T3 .04 aluminum and were drilled into the frame and will be attached by aluminum 1/8 rivets. Eventually the panels were powered coated, too. I did not take pictures on this; however, he is a reference location from @EdwardB's build page - I will show pictures on the final install:

Panel Reference Location.jpeg

[wedel456]

Panel Finishing:

Now that all the custom panels are completed, I set my mind to how panels would be covered. My initial thoughts were to paint all the panels. For the under-bonnet areas, I planned to do a good DA sanding and then clear coat them, following the process @RSnake used on some of his panels. For the black panels, I originally planned to use TCP Global Jet Black. I wasn’t overly concerned about the look of the black panels since half would be covered with heat and sound deadening and carpet, and the other half would be underneath the car. However, as I considered the sheer number of hours required to make these painted finishes look professional, I started to explore powder coating as an alternative.

I got recommendations for powder coating shops in my area (recently moved to North Carolina from California) and was impressed by Pro Dimensions in Locust, NC. I decided to work with them and would 100% use them again - will post the finished product in another update.

With that decision made, I focused on the color for the coating. I really liked the anodized look that @P100DHG used. I was about to choose that option for the under-bonnet areas and black for everywhere else when my dad convinced me to stick with black to let the engine be the star. I followed his advice and moved forward with an all black powder coat.

Seat Selection:

For the seats, based on @Edwardb’s recommendation (and others on the forum), I originally planned to go with Corbeau Evolution X seats. HOWEVER, after seeing reports on the forum about potential changes in the seat fitment, somewhat confirmed by @Edwardb, I explored other options. I couldn’t find anyone using Braum Orue seats, but the dimensions seemed similar, and the headrest design looked like it would fit better due to its smaller size. I really liked the black-and-white color scheme, which aligns perfectly with my planned body color (more on that later).

My biggest concern was not finding anyone who had used these seats until @JimStone started his build. After seeing his fitment and fixes (I’m a little over 6' tall, so this could have been an issue), I pulled the trigger on the White Leatherette | Diamond | Black Trim - (BRR6-WDBS). The seats look awesome, fit the body nicely, and perfectly align with the vision for my build.

Upholstery:

Now that the seats and seat color have been selected, I needed to decide what other elements should match the seats. The dash is an obvious choice (more on the customizations there in another post), as well as the three panels covered in my last post ("More Custom Panels")—under the dash and in the driver’s and passenger’s footwells. All of these will be covered in black vinyl to match the seats. Initially, I considered using material available through Braum; however, my upholsterer recommended against it, saying it wouldn’t work well with the dash or look right. Instead, he proposed another option we’ll finalize when I drop off the pieces for finishing.

In another post, I’ll document what I did for the switch panel under the dash. It will also be covered in the same material. None of these panels will use foam backing material, particularly the dash and switch panel, to maintain a clean look. I wanted to avoid the challenge of frenching the foam material with the gauges, switches, A/C vents, etc. (I’ll do a dedicated post on the dash later.)

The last two panels I wanted to cover were the transmission covers—front and rear (the driver’s half cover will be carpeted). These panels will use the same material as the other custom pieces but will include foam backing underneath. This addition provides a soft, cushioned surface for resting an elbow, enhancing comfort and style. This decision brought up a whole other issue that I will discuss in my post about sound / heat deadening.

[wedel456]

My plan for the instrument panel was a long journey. I scoured the forums for inspiration, looking through the incredible solutions others have completed. I knew two things off the bat:

1. A full customization was not within my scope, my abilities, or preferences.
2. I wanted to use the kit-provided dash with a clean solid, non-race-car aesthetic that leaned toward a finished “OE” look.

Building off this, here’s the direction I’m heading:

1. Dash Top and Front - I will cover both in vinyl without padding and will not include the traditional brow (See last post for reasoning).
2. Hidden Mounting and Instrument Panel Idea - There will be no visible rivets or screws holding the dash in place. Instead, I’ll use @EdwardB’s hidden mounting method for a seamless look. The will be no separate instrument panel as it will be moulded into the front of the dash as one piece.
3. Switch Panel - Like the dash, it will be covered in vinyl but without padding for a consistent appearance. Single port USB stations will be installed on each side of the panel.
4. Transmission Covers - Both the front and rear transmission covers will be removable, though the front cover will pose challenges during the electrical phase (more on that in a future post). Both will be covered with vinyl and padding.
5. Turn Signal and High/Low Beams - I’m installing a Russ Thompson turn signal, repurposing the stock switch for high/low beam functionality, managed via an IDidIt module.
6. Horn - The horn button will be integrated into the instrument cluster for a streamlined design.
7. Toggle Switch Panel - I will be using a New Vintage USA Toggle Switch Panel (inspired by @Rsnake’s build), which will be mounted in the main dash area. I will not be using any of the FF kit provided switches (but for some of the A/C controls) in this build.
8. Light Switch - The light switch will be mounted to the right of the toggle switch in the main dash area.
9. Courtesy Lights - Courtesy lights will be installed on the underside of the dash corners and controlled by the headlight switch knob.
10. A/C Vents - A/C vents will be installed on the front of the dash—two on the outside and two in the middle of the dash above the switch panel. I am not sure why but there really are no good upgrade options here. I wanted to have ones that were metal looking and not complete flimsy plastic but all those options are ultra expensive. I did find some inexpensive Vintage Air louvers with chrome on this; however, I attempted multiple orders and the "chrome" came with blemishes each time (three different orders). I eventually went with two additional units from Vintage Air that matched the FF provided vents that are all black and no chrome.
11. A/C and Ignition Switch - My initial thought was to do something similar to what @P100DHG completed in his build and mount them in the transmission cover. However, once I looked at it, I wasn’t sure it would be comfortable with my arm resting in that area. It also became apparent that with all the electronics I needed to fit under the dash, a center switch panel would be necessary to close up that area from wandering eyes. So, the decision was made to put everything there. I will not be using the FF-provided panel for the A/C controls in the front of the switch panel (will cover this in the build post for the panel itself).
12. Ignition Switch - I will be installing a PBS Digital Guard Dawg unit for "security" and ignition functionality.
13. Clock - I purchased a clock from Speedhut, which will be installed on the front of the dash in front of the passenger.
14. Additional Lights:
    
    1. E-brake Warning Light - A light will be installed to indicate when the e-brake is engaged (more details on this in a future post).
    2. Fan Running Light - Another light will signal when the fan is running.
15. Master Disconnect - The disconnect will be installed in a similar location to @EdwardB. I didn't really like any of my other options and did not want to go with something electric. I liked the idea and look of something physical.

[JimStone]

Great choice on the Braum Orue seats! They're not SFI rated, but that doesn't bother me. May for some.

Does take a little bit of trimming the reclining lever if you want to mount it back as far as possible, but it's not bad. And if you're considering sliders, you'll likely only get an inch or two of movement because the seats squeeze in there. The way the transmission tunnel flares out for the bellhousing limits travel room.

[wedel456]

I started the dash development process by doing a lot of measuring and laying out my thoughts with a pen. Ensuring that everything was aligned perfectly in the middle of the car was a top priority for me, and it took time to get everything just right.

Being the kind of person who is very particular about aesthetics, I find it difficult to ignore the small details. When something isn’t aligned, it draws my attention, so I wanted to ensure everything would be flawless. This meant taking the extra time to make sure the A/C vents were perfectly aligned with one another, and that they lined up with the gauges. The switch panel also had to be perfectly centered on the dash, which in turn needed to align with the lower gauges.

Dash Layout 3.jpg Dash Layout 1.jpg Dash Layout 2.jpg

This attention to detail led to many hours of careful measurement, realignment, and multiple revisions to get everything to a place where I was satisfied with the visual flow. It’s one of those things that might not be noticed immediately, but when done correctly, it makes all the difference.

Dash Drivers.jpg Dash Center.jpg Dash Passanger.jpg

Once I was confident in the measurements, I moved on to cutting. For the A/C vents, I used the appropriate size hole saw, while for the switch panel, I used a grinder. The Toggle Switch Panel came with 8-32 screws and nuts to mount to the back, but I decided to take it a step further by creating a custom mounting bracket. This bracket will use 8-32 rivnuts in the back for a more secure and tailored installation.

Dash Hole Cuts.jpg Switch Bracket.jpg

For the instrument panel, my plan was to have one solid dash. To make this happened I needed to find a way to perm connect the instrument panel to the dash. To accomplish this, I took the FF provided instrument panel and cut it to size to fit behind the dash using the pre-drilled default mounting location. Then I cut a matching panel out of 6061 T3 aluminum and placed it on top of that piece. This was needed to:

1. Ensure that the panel was aligned 100 percent correctly in the instrument panel hole. This is a major reason why I used the FF provided piece was it ensured alignment.
2. Provide the necessary backing required to attach my panel to the dash as there was no easy way to put a panel in place without backing material or welding (which I am not equipped, or talented enough, to accomplish).

Dash Layout 1.jpg

I then used the holes in the FF-provided panel as a template to cut the exact same hole sizes for the instruments from behind. I did leave the cutout for the steering shaft so I could get that as close as possible for a finished look once that is installed. I then cut out two holes for the previously discussed fan and e-brake lights. I decided to use the Small Chrome Low Profile LED Indicators from Watson Streetworks. Red for the E-brake (installed between the tach and speedo) and green for the fan installed between the two gauges on the right. Also, you can see the holes for the horn (bottom right of the instrument cluster) and the light switch to the right of the switch panel (where the square opening is located).

I eventually cut the hole for the clock and installed the steering wheel. Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures documenting this process (another failure on my part), but here is a finalized version of what the instrument panel looks like today. You get to see the switch panel below, which I will cover in another post coming up, too.

Final Dash.jpg

To attach the dash, I utilized the same trick as @EdwardB. The dash will be connected to the cross bar that the dash sits on using L Channel and 6-32 flat screws and lock nuts on the front, and 10-32 flange heads and 10-32 rivnuts into the cross bar. I will be able to access the screws by removing the A/C vents.

Dash Attachment.jpg

[wedel456]

I will get into more of this when I discuss my electrical plans; however, I have a background in technology and home automation, having wired and automated my previous house to be controlled via my cell phone. With that experience, I plan to add some modern features to the car, but without compromising its vintage appeal. I’ll dive deeper into the electrical details in a later post, but for now, I want to share my thoughts on how the car will be controlled.

1. As previously discussed, I will be utilizing the PBS-1 from Digital Guard Dawg. As such, the FF-provided ignition switch will be thrown into the extra parts bin. The start button will be installed in the Switch Panel, which will be discussed in a later post.
2. I will be installing A/C and the heater in the car. At a minimum, I will be utilizing the two toggle switches provided in the kit. The A/C on/off switch does not match the rest of the car, so I need to find something that fits better. These switches, along with the heater control, will be installed in the switch panel.
3. The horn, as previously mentioned, will be installed in the instrument panel. I opted for a more period-correct horn button for this.
4. I will be using the FF-provided light switch. As shown above, the switch is installed to the right of the toggle switch panel and will control the lights and courtesy lights.
5. For the Toggle Switch panel, there are five switches, arranged from right to left:
   
   1. Wipers (DPDT) – will use the @P100DHG documented solution.
   2. Fog (SPST) – these run through a relay and can only be turned on when the headlights are on.
   3. Hazard (DPST) - Function the same as the FF provided solution.
   4. Fan (SPST) – controlled via a relay (not the Ron Francis relay) and can be turned on via a ground from this switch, the A/C, or EFI.
   5. Fuel Pump (SPST) - Only manually controlled. Love the thought of hearing the unit turn on before the roar of the engine. Will be a ground based trigger via a relay.
6. I will be using the Russ Thompson turn signal. As such, no toggle switch is required for this functionality, and the high/low beams will be handled via the button on the RT. As mentioned earlier, all this will be run through an IDidIT module.

I was able to find very closely matching switches to the ones on the toggle switch panel:

1. DPDT
2. DPST

Overall, I believe this will provide easy functionality, a very clean and minimalist dash, while still maintaining a period-correct appearance. If you are looking to do this yourself, it should be noted that this will very much complicate your wiring, so be prepared (or warned depending on your perspective).

[wedel456]

Today, I wrapped up all the bodywork on my dash before sending it off to the upholstery shop. I meticulously ensured all the hole sizes were accurate, the panel was perfectly straight, and everything looked clean and professional. I’m thrilled with how it turned out!

While working on this final stage, I realized I left a few details out of my previous posts about the dash.

1. Speedometer Programming Button - I drilled a hole just below the speedometer to house its programming button. This location allows easy access without detracting from the dash's clean appearance.
   Rounded Dash and Button.jpg
2. Clock Programming Button Bracket - For the clock's programming button, I fabricated a small bracket out of aluminum L-channel. This bracket sits slightly recessed below the clock, just enough for fingers to reach behind the dash to press the button. I placed it carefully to prevent accidental activation or interference from knees when entering or exiting the car.
3. Instrument Panel Integration - To clarify how the dash will function as one full piece despite using a separate instrument panel:
   
   1. I installed a 3/4-inch aluminum L-channel that runs the entire length of the dash at the back, from the passenger side to the driver’s side. This addition was crucial for maintaining the structural integrity and achieving a seamless "default dash" look.
   2. Since L-channel edges are square and lack the roundness needed for a smooth finish and to match the rest of the dash, I used a belt sander to blunt the hard corner. Afterward, I applied JB Weld to fill in the gap and sanded it down to create a smooth, matching profile.
      Rounded Dash and Button.jpg
4. Courtesy Lights Location - I also failed to previously highlight the location of the courtesy lights. They are installed at the very center of each side of the dash. The lights I chose are the L86 models with a white lens from Watson Streetworks, which should provide a clean, modern look while still fitting the overall aesthetic.
   Courtesy Lights Location.jpg
5. Dash Side Panels - I filled all the connection points from the dash side panels using JB Weld (you can see this in the pic above). This is very important since I will not be utilizing any padding. vinyl will show almost everything.
6. Dash Rivets - other than what was noted in my first dash post, everything that is connected to the dash is utilizing flat aluminum 1/8 flush mount blind rivets and then they are sanded smooth and filled with JB Weld.

The dash now looks cohesive, sturdy, and ready for the next phase. Once it comes back from upholstery, I’ll be excited to share the finished product!

[wedel456]

Once my custom panels were completed, I moved on to installing the A/C – Heater – Defroster unit. Honestly, I’m not entirely sure how I managed this solo, but by carefully wrapping my arm around the frame while looking down at the unit, I was able to mark the top two mounting locations. After drilling and installing these, I could then support the back of the unit and crawl underneath to mark the inner mounting location.

The biggest challenge of this process was deciding the optimal angle for installation.

Siroco Installation.jpg

Brackets and Installation Details:
For the brackets:

1. Left Hanger: I installed a 10-32 rivnut and used a flange head screws and a stainless washer. For reference, this rivnut is located approximately 4 3/8" from the outside frame member.
   Sirico Bracket Location.jpg
2. Right Hanger: I drilled and tapped the hole instead of using a rivnut due to limited access and used a flange head screws and a stainless washer. Since this bracket will likely never need to be touched again and I do not have a small rivnut installation tool (yes, I know they are cheap but I did not think the effort/cost was worth it for a one off installation), I felt this approach was practical.
   
   • Connection to the Sirocco Unit: I used a 10-32 stainless flange head screw with a stainless washer and locknut on the inside, bypassing the provided self-tapping screws (I just could not bring myself to use the provided self tapping screw).
3. Bottom Bracket: I installed a 10-32 rivnut and flange head screws.

After aligning everything, I removed the unit, sprayed all brackets with TCP Global Jet Black for a clean finish, and reinstalled the unit.

Heater Control Valve:
For the Heater Control Valve, I never liked the look of the default installation location. After watching @RSnake’s video showcasing his installation approach, I decided to follow his lead. I mocked up the unit on the engine side of the passenger footwell, and it fits perfectly.

I won’t be using the provided bulkhead connectors for the heater lines. Instead, I’ll install passthrough grommets for the firewall. To make this work, I may need to trim some of the plastic on one or both sides of the control valve. However, this setup will result in a much cleaner look in the engine bay. The valve itself will be secured solely by the tension of the heater lines. I’ll provide pictures and more details during the final installation. Additionally, this will keep most of the wiring out of the engine bay, too.

Bulkhead Bracket Challenges:
During this process, I drilled the holes for the A/C bulkhead bracket. Despite meticulous measuring, my drill marks didn’t align for a direct connection between the unit and the bulkhead connectors (a common issue among builders). To resolve this, I decided against patching the hole and will instead use additional angled fittings for the lower #6. I’ll document this further when I complete the final installation of the unit; however, I did mock it up and it works perfectly.

[wedel456]

In early October, after months of asking questions, looking at vendors, and assessing where I was at in the build, I decided it was time to pull the trigger on the engine. As I stated in the preface, I knew I didn’t want to go with a modern engine. Something about the old school sound and smell of a small-block Ford (SBF) just made sense. Even after looking around and talking with other engine builders, I decided to stick with Proformance Unlimited out of Florida. Their customer service and ability to answer question after question without frustration was reassuring to me. Additionally, their customer reviews were great. I can’t speak more highly of them so far. You get a video of the engine on the dyno, and they burn in a tune for you—a true drop-in ready solution. I also picked up their TKX transmission package for an all-in-one solution.

The engine is a 427 stroker with 575 HP (I’m smiling while typing this), Dart block, and a Holley Sniper 2 EFI system. The package I purchased includes a full chrome CVF serpentine system with A/C (which I will be using instead of the Factory Five-provided one), power steering, and an alternator. The block will be painted all black to make the chrome really pop. I upgraded to the typical Cobra air cleaner and valve covers, too. I’ll be using the 5520 CDI box in black.

Engine.png

One last customization I made was taken from @P100DHG. I never really liked the inline coolant filler provided in the FF kit. It just doesn’t look right to me. So, I had the engine builder install @P100DHG’s solution from TDMotion. This will remove that inline filler and put it at the top of the engine for a much cleaner look. I’ll cover this as part of the radiator tube installation when I get there.

As for the transmission, it’s a TKX with a Hytech throwout bearing and 13/16 Wildwood master cylinder. The package comes with everything needed for the install (bell housing, flywheel, clutch disc, etc.). Additionally, it comes with the necessary mid-shift kit for the coupe installation location.

Overall, it was a big hit to the wallet, but my God, this thing is going to be a beast. It should be here sometime in December (hopefully as an early Christmas present to me).

[wedel456]

With the dash ready to go, I set my eyes on the switch panel. As I discussed previously, I originally wasn’t going to install a switch panel under the dash. However, after reviewing dash designs, deciding not to put controls in the transmission tunnel (like P100DHG), and realizing how much electrical work needed to be hidden, I really didn’t have any other options.

Another reason I decided to use a switch panel is the extremely flimsy dash in the middle. Without any support, I was concerned that the dash would actually vibrate with the engine. Adding the switch panel not only gave me a practical place for all the controls but also provided much-needed reinforcement for the dash, ensuring it stays solid and stable.

I needed a location to place:

1. The start button from the Digital Guard Dawg
2. The A/C on/off, Fan, and Heat switches
3. USB charging ports

Using the same cardboard from other design template projects, I created a template and cut it out of 6061 T3 aluminum. Boy, was that a mistake. I was able to make the front bend using my brake; however, the bend was too much for the material, and it split. I should have taken the advice (as usual) from @EdwardB and purchased some softer material. Looking around the garage, I had just enough remaining A/C vent material that I used for the footwell custom panels. That worked perfectly and was extremely easy to bend in the brake. There literally was zero reason to use thicker material.

Once the piece was completed, I ran into what could be a major eye-catching issue. The car is not 100 percent centered. As you can see in the picture below, the transmission tunnel is not exactly in the middle of the car—it is actually off by about 3/8 of an inch. Everything I have been doing so far has been based on the dash being centered. This means that if I were to center the switch locations on the switch panel, they wouldn’t line up exactly with the Toggle Switch Panel above. My wife thinks I’m crazy, but I just know my eye will be drawn to it.

Alignment Problems.jpg

Since I can’t adjust the panel side to side (that would be even worse), I decided to split the difference for the middle fan control (approximately 3/16 of an inch) and then line up the A/C and Temp control with the guard locations from the switch panel above (will make more sense when I do the actual final install). At this point, I am a little nervous that it will not look right, but time will tell. It’s hard to determine without the dash and switch panel being covered.

Final Switch Panel Locations.jpg

The switch panel is connected to the upper transmission cover via 10-32 rivnuts and flange head screws, and to the dash using 10-32 rivnuts installed in the switch panel and screwed above from the dash lip using flange heads. These can be accessed via the Toggle Switch Panel above, making the switch panel fully removable.

Switch Panel Attachments.jpg

To finish up the project, I drilled a hole on each side of the switch panel to house a USB charging port.

Final Dash.jpg

Final Issues and Fixes:
I did end up running into a couple of final issues with the switch panel:

1. Switch Alignment - My first plan was to line up the switches in the switch panel with the Toggle Switch Panel above. While symmetrically that would have looked weird in hindsight, it also didn’t provide the correct spacing required to put your fingers between the fan and temp switches. I had to fill the holes with JB Weld and redrill them to line up with the switch guards from the Toggle Switch Panel above.
2. Switch Twisting - Since I am not using the Factory Five-provided switch installation panel for the A/C controls, I ran into an issue with the switches twisting. I could have lined up the holes just right and spent time drilling and filling the holes correctly, but my solution was to cut the Factory Five-provided panel and then mount it with a flush mount rivet in the correct locations from behind. This provides the perfect alignment of the switches, prevents them from spinning, and avoids the time necessary to drill and file the holes just right.

One last thing to note:
There is VERY little room behind the panel. The angle of the upper transmission tunnel does not allow for much space here. I had to bend the spades on the switches just to make them fit into this space. If you are looking at installing larger switches, be prepared to spend some time here (@EdwardB documented this in his build).

[wedel456]

I will not bore everyone with a thread about the drilling of the panels. Everyone else knows it is a tedious endeavor. Make sure that you have more than enough Clecos (again, you can never have too many) and a handful of #30 drill bits. Mine may just be cheap, but I have gone through a few of them at this point. Like other panels, I took more than enough time to ensure that all rivets would be in line with each other, even on panels that would never be seen again. The only panels that I could not do this with were the ones that came pre-drilled from Factory Five. By the time I decided I was going to do powder coating, I had already drilled all the panels, so I couldn’t start over to get the alignment. The ones that were off were the footwell inside upper and lower walls on the passenger side and the footwell inside wall on the driver side. The rivets line up on the panels themselves, but not to each other. I know, I know, not a big deal, but it drives me up the wall. It would be awesome if we could order the car without any panels drilled!!!!

Once I was done with all the drilling, I sent the parts off to the powder coater, and OMG—they look dang good. I haven’t installed most of them yet (though you can catch glimpses of them in some of the posts above), but the finish came out great. The quality is exactly what I was hoping for, and it really adds that extra touch of polish to the build.

Powder Coat 2.jpg Powder Coat 1.jpg Powder 3.jpg Powder 4.jpg
Again, if you are in the Charolette, NC area hit up Pro Dimension Powdercoating.

What did surprise me, based upon what I have read on other posts, I did not find this project too time consuming. I knocked out all the alignment and drilling fairly quickly. The only panel that really confused me (thank you @EdwardB) was the two Cockpit Rear Inside Corners. I did not understand, and the manual does not really show this, how to correctly attach those panels. If you are confused see the link to that discussion.

[wedel456]

After reviewing the trunk box build from @EdwardB, I knew I wanted to do a drop trunk.

Trunk Box Fabrication:
I purchased some 6061 T3 .04 to match the FF-provided panels from Zoro—again, should have listened to @EdwardB. Using the same dimensions as him—16 inches wide, 23 inches long, and 5 1/2 inches deep—I cut the material on my band saw and ensured everything was nice and square / smooth on the belt sander. Once I tried to put it in the brake, my god. Either I do not know what I am doing (which is a strong possibility), I am not strong enough (again, another possibility), or the 6061 T3 is not meant for this brake. I could not make the bends on the 16 or 23-inch sides. Just could… not… do… it.

I could have purchased softer material; however, I had a bunch of 1-inch L-channel, so I used that for the top and bottom of the panel and then cut off the lip length of each panel and connected them to the L-channel.

The 5 1/2-inch deep sides did work with the brake, so I bent those to support the sides.

I then cut the bottom panel out of the same 6061 T3 material and placed it in the bottom of the trunk. All panels were connected together or to the L-channel utilizing 1/8-inch aluminum rivets.

In the end, the trunk box construction turned out fine—not great, but fine. It’s not anywhere near as clean or polished as @EdwardB’s example, but it’s most definitely stronger thanks to the L-channel reinforcement. The added durability and rigidity make it a functional and sturdy solution that I can live with, even if it doesn’t win any awards for aesthetics. The good thing is that it will not be seen by anyone once installed.

Trunk Box Finished 1.jpg Trunk Box Finished 2.jpg Trunk Box Finished 3jpg.jpg

Once I put in a little calk and install the sound and heat material no one but me will know execute ne and it will function all the same.

Once the box construction was completed, I took the time to closely measure and cut the hole from the hatch floor. I did need to trim the L-channel to fit into the open area correctly. It took me many back-and-forth trips between the grinder and test fitting the panel to cut around the hatch floor middle cross frame rails.

Trunl Mockup.jpg

I did not reinstall the hatch for the sending unit; however, I will leave the hatch for the fuel pump. I have not decided if I will install rivnuts and not glue down the carpet in that area or just know that I would need to drop the tank if the fuel pump was to fail. I am leaning it at the latter at this point.

Trunk Box Cover:
Following the @EdwardB construction, I, too, wanted to have a cover for the trunk. I do not document the construction of this in pictures but will do so when I install it for the last time. However, for now, I did cut the cover out of 6061 T3 .04 material to match the trunk and the rest of the FF panels. The dimensions of the cover is 24 inches long and ~18 inches wide I then split the cover width wise:

1. 10 inches
2. 8 inches

My thought process on two different sizes was to more easily allow the trunk to be propped up during use. Not sure if it really makes a difference either way but we will see.

I then utilized two 180-Degree Piano Surface Stainless Steel Cabinet Hinges from Lowes, cutting them to match. Aligned the 10 inch panel at the top and the 8 inch at the bottom. Drilled the holes in the panels to line up to the hinge hole locations. Once that was completed I sent the panels off to powder coating.

The remaining item on this project is:

1. Mounting of trunk box lid to the Hatch Floor panel - @EdwardB utilized rivets; however, I am leaning towards 10-32 rivnuts and stainless steel flange head screws. This will allow for easy adjustment and removal, if required, yet still provide the strength to keep it in the right place during opening/closing
2. Screws to mount the hinges to the panel - the piano hinges come with #4 wood screws (obviously would not work). My thought was to purchase stainless 4-40 screws and nuts; however, when I got them the heads were not big enough. I had some #6 left over from another project and they are too big. Will need to find the right size screw head.

Finishing Thoughts:

1. Trunk Box Cover - this will be covered in slightly oversized carpet and edged appropriately, The top half will be glued to the cover while bottom half will be left to float with the cover to allow it to open.
2. Trunk Box - this will be covered with sound and heat material and then covered in carpet.
3. Frame Cross Members - I am thinking about finishing these with the same vinyl material as the seats. Now that I am not using it for the dash I have 1 yard and nothing to do with it.

[JimStone]

You're making good progress. I got my kit a few weeks before you and you're way ahead of me. I work an hour or two a day after the kids go to sleep during the week and a bit more on weekends. Slow and steady, I guess.

So you got a Russ Thompson turn signal? You must have been planning ahead. I'm stressing about getting one, but TJ's version is basically unobtainable currently and I'm not a fan of 427etc's model.

[wedel456]

You're making good progress. I got my kit a few weeks before you and you're way ahead of me. I work an hour or two a day after the kids go to sleep during the week and a bit more on weekends. Slow and steady, I guess.

So you got a Russ Thompson turn signal? You must have been planning ahead. I'm stressing about getting one, but TJ's version is basically unobtainable currently and I'm not a fan of 427etc's model.

Yes, my last company sold last year so I am doing this almost full time right now - and loving it. I am actually farther ahead on many items as I am just now posting. More updates over the next couple of days to get me up-to-date.

Yes, I have the RT turn signal. While I give MAJOR props to TJ for continuing RT's legacy, I, too, had major time delays with ordering. Took me from July to October to get one. My suggestion is that you email (not call or direct PM him on this site) him (PM me if you do not have his address). It took me just a few times to get him. I am not knocking him at all as I know this is not his primary business and I am 100 percent confident he is not becoming rich off of this.

[wedel456]

In my "The Build" post, I listed "Lizard Skin Heat and Sound" as an additional add-on I was looking forward to accomplishing. However, after looking at the time necessary to prep the car to make this happen, and the time required to do the footwell panels (See @P100DHG) or purchase additional products (see @EdwardB), I thought it would be wise to look for other options before pulling the trigger. During my research, I found that costs range WIDELY. However, while looking, I saw a video from @i.e.427 where he was installing a FatMat product on a 25th anniversary. I looked into the product and found their RattleTrap product. Did some quick searches on the forum and decided that this would be a better path forward for me:

1. Other than making templates for the footwell panels, there is literally zero prep (other than cleaning the panels post-install).
2. I believe it will be a vastly quicker install, can be done in chunks rather than all at once, and will be consistent across the entire car.
3. You do not need to be concerned about overspray or ensuring there are no gaps in your panels before installation.
4. You can utilize the product to complexly cover the inside of panels and roll the product onto the frame - i.e. the passenger and drivers side area outside the cockpit right above the exhaust. This will ensure that all gaps are closed and provide maximum sound a heat reduction.

I bought the 100 Sq/Ft package as I plan on installing this on all panels and the roof of the coupe. Yes, it probably will not be as heat resistant as LizardSkin (although based upon my experience to date with a heat gun, it works fairly well), but it will surely work for sound deadening. If you are buying from Ebay (the cheapest when I bought it), there really is no benefit of purchasing more than you guess as the small packages are essentially the same cost. Will just cost you a couple of days waiting on it to arrive.

The product goes on very easily. Cut the product, give it a little heat with the heat gun, remove a small portion of the backing on one side of the piece you are installing, and while using the provided roller (or a highly recommended upgrade roller like I purchased), ensure no air is trapped behind the panel to guarantee that 100% sticks to the surface. This provides maximum heat and sound deadening.

Installation Note:
If you are going to look at this product you should know that the product is not perfectly flat, and by that I mean it is no where near flat. Even with effort to heat the product and roll it flat from both sides you will NEVER be able to get it flat enough to cover something with vinyl/leather without body work and/or foam (forshaddowing for another post). Be aware if this if you are looking at these types of product or performing and install.