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Thread: Doors

  1. #1
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    Doors

    Hello
    I'm ready to tackle the dreaded doors and have reviewed many of the posts on this subject. Before I get on the wrong track should I install the power window hardware, glass etc before I set the doors or is it best to fit the doors then add the innards.
    My concern is that if I fit first then add internals it may warp the original settings.

    Thank you
    Cam

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The power windows, track, etc. don't affect the door shape and you need to get the internal steel frame installed first anyway. Getting thoseproperly positioned affects the hinge and latch locations. I found the instructions and templates they provided to be reasonably accurate. But I didn't find that the frames or the added windows affected the shape of the doors. I was able to get mine pretty decent except for the rear lower corners on both sides. A common problem area from what I've seen and heard. I shimmed the body out which helped a little. But still ended up making a pie cut in the doors to get them flush.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
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    Thank you for the info. In my first attempt with the 2 piece internal frame installed the bottom rear corner is out almost 1/2 inch. Using your suggestions I'll start from the beginning with more attention to the internal frame and use your suggestions.
    Thanks again for taking the time to help a newbie.

  4. #4
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    I got my doors very close. Then went to the painter and the heat in the booth caused them to get out of shape again. Used some spacers on the top of the door to force the top out, which it needed, and it moved the bottom in. Not perfect, but better.

  5. #5
    Swapping out hot wheels:) ironman16nc's Avatar
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    I'm finding the doors to be ... somewhat lacking (to be very kind). The interior panel is so thin it cracked immediately with only moderate pressure. I will need to reinforce the upper inner panel or someone just grabbing the door with the window open will snap it.

    But an even bigger problem and reason for my post is the door's edge surface where the hinges attach. It's at least 20 degrees off square with the door. When I install the interior frame member with square surfaces to mount the hinges, it deforms the entire door when the fiberglass is squeezed square between the hinge and the inner frame. Has anyone else had this problem?
    I'm thinking that I need to essentially rebuild at least the door surface that the hinges attach so that it will be square to the metal inner frame of the door. That's going to be a real challenge to get right inside the door. Thinking I might need to cut the door into the inner and outer sides, fix the hinge mount surface, then put it back together.

    Thoughts?
    2019 Nov: '35 Hot-rod Truck, 306, EFI, 3-link (current build...the next possible 'keeper'!)
    2015 Mar: MK4 Complete kit #8617, 302 create, carb, 3-link (still wasn't the 'keeper car' LOL)
    2014 Sep: MKII Kit #4215, 302 create, carb, IRS, Sold as roller (wasn't the 'keeper car')
    2011 Mar: MK3 Base Kit #5400, 4.6L Fuel Injection, Complete! (well, just about)

  6. #6
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ironman16nc View Post
    I'm finding the doors to be ... somewhat lacking (to be very kind). The interior panel is so thin it cracked immediately with only moderate pressure. I will need to reinforce the upper inner panel or someone just grabbing the door with the window open will snap it.

    But an even bigger problem and reason for my post is the door's edge surface where the hinges attach. It's at least 20 degrees off square with the door. When I install the interior frame member with square surfaces to mount the hinges, it deforms the entire door when the fiberglass is squeezed square between the hinge and the inner frame. Has anyone else had this problem?
    I'm thinking that I need to essentially rebuild at least the door surface that the hinges attach so that it will be square to the metal inner frame of the door. That's going to be a real challenge to get right inside the door. Thinking I might need to cut the door into the inner and outer sides, fix the hinge mount surface, then put it back together.

    Thoughts?
    Check out my build ..... link in my signature. I used 3M 2-part epoxy to "bed" the door frame to the door skin to prevent the problem you described.

    Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  7. #7
    Swapping out hot wheels:) ironman16nc's Avatar
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    Inner door frame mount adjustment

    Quote Originally Posted by mkassab View Post
    Check out my build ..... link in my signature. I used 3M 2-part epoxy to "bed" the door frame to the door skin to prevent the problem you described.

    Mark
    Thanks, Mark. Great clear pics of it all. Will do!
    For those also interested, here's the specific spot in Mark's build he references. Scroll down to 02-10-2024, 10:44 AM
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...714#post548714
    2019 Nov: '35 Hot-rod Truck, 306, EFI, 3-link (current build...the next possible 'keeper'!)
    2015 Mar: MK4 Complete kit #8617, 302 create, carb, 3-link (still wasn't the 'keeper car' LOL)
    2014 Sep: MKII Kit #4215, 302 create, carb, IRS, Sold as roller (wasn't the 'keeper car')
    2011 Mar: MK3 Base Kit #5400, 4.6L Fuel Injection, Complete! (well, just about)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuck35truck View Post
    I got my doors very close. Then went to the painter and the heat in the booth caused them to get out of shape again. Used some spacers on the top of the door to force the top out, which it needed, and it moved the bottom in. Not perfect, but better.
    In order to align the doors, loosen the bolts that hold the two pieces of the internal frame together, twist the door in the direction you want, then tighten the bolts on the internal frame while holding the door in the position you want. This worked for me and the doors are within an 1/8" on one side to perfect on the other. I found that I had to adjust it a number of times until I got it just right.

  9. #9
    Swapping out hot wheels:) ironman16nc's Avatar
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    @Grandpas Garage: Brilliant! That's the trick. I got the hinge depths right then loosened the two bolts on the internal frame, twisted the door top from bottom on the latch side, tightened, and presto! Does take a few tries but works like a charm.
    2019 Nov: '35 Hot-rod Truck, 306, EFI, 3-link (current build...the next possible 'keeper'!)
    2015 Mar: MK4 Complete kit #8617, 302 create, carb, 3-link (still wasn't the 'keeper car' LOL)
    2014 Sep: MKII Kit #4215, 302 create, carb, IRS, Sold as roller (wasn't the 'keeper car')
    2011 Mar: MK3 Base Kit #5400, 4.6L Fuel Injection, Complete! (well, just about)

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the thread, I start my doors tomorrow

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