Angelina: Build Story of my 4-wheeled Motorcycle

[danmas]

Hey Y'All,

After successfully adding those specialized nut-serts to my access panel for the traditional hand-brake cut-out, I decided to apply the same treatment to the Driver's side inner-top panel that has an access panel for the master cylinders.

Here's a picture of the top side (with rubber washers under stainless button-head fasteners Attachment 200505 ...and here's the under side Attachment 200506

Happy Building!

Craig C

I am going to do this as well. I simply don’t see any other way to get access once the body is on. Thanks for the write up.

[cc2Arider]

Hi Dan,

I only used the specialized nut-serts because the overlap of the two panels was less than what I expect to use for the more traditional nut-serts. Now that I feel more comfortable making my own simple panels, I would do it differently than I did before by making a new access panel with more overlap -- this would permit me to drill the holes with more material on the edges of the access opening.

Good Luck !

Craig C

[AndrewIdaho]

I only used the specialized nut-serts because the overlap of the two panels was less than what I expect to use for the more traditional nut-serts.

Craig
Newbie question - what is a specialized nut-sert?
Thanks, Andrew

[cc2Arider]

Hi Andrew,

This is my own definition

The typical nut-serts (or riv-nuts) deform like a blind-pull rivet, whereas these "specialized" ones described previously are machined stainless and instead deform the mounting hole just a little because it is a slight interference fit if you drill properly. The severity of deformation is limited to forming the grooves into the hole from the "knurled" surface of the nut-sert. This helps to limit "twist-out"...

The ones from McMaster-Carr have a data sheet that identifies the proper drill size to use

I chose these simply because they were small enough diameter and had decent "twist-out" specs. Truth be told, the FFR Aluminum panels are actually on the thin side to use these properly, but I was OK with that because I added Silicone on the back-side upon assembly anyway, and this provided me some comfort that they would be retained onto the panel following any panel disassembly task.

Good Luck!

Craig C

[AndrewIdaho]

Hi Craig,

Thanks for the clarification and the additional insight to your assembly technique. I have follow-up question. Do you use the McMaster-Carr Stainless Steel Twist-Resistant Rivet Nuts or the Stainless Steel Low-Profile Rivet Nuts (or both depending on application)?

Keep up the great work on the build. I enjoy following along.

Best Regards, Andrew

[cc2Arider]

Hi Andrew,

I have used different types...https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3661/94648A330 and https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3780/98560A572 as well as well-nuts (rubber with brass inserts) and the "usual" riv-nuts. I even used these https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3524/94887A112

The factors can vary...sometimes my whim at the time, or serious considerations of long-term viability or maintenance, or to mitigate my own mistakes

Good Luck!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This weekend I decided to knock out a project that I was dreading: removal of my F-panels to fit "Fat Tire" panels in their place. You see, I decided last winter to stuff the widest tire that would fit onto the FFR 18" rims, and when I tested for tire rub lock-to-lock, I noticed tire contact with the F-panels...

My short-term solution was to add rack limiters, and those did the job. I believed a more permanent solution might still be needed, so several months back I ordered a set of "Fat Tire" panels from a preferred vendor. My thought was that I might even be able to remove my "short term fix" rack limiters if I could get those new panels installed. Well, the time to do that is sooner rather than later, but I'd like to share my observations in case any of you want to retrofit these on your Roadsters

First up: how to make room behind the upper a-arm suspension so that I could get to my rivets and drill them out. With a combination of jack stands and a lawnmower/motorcycle jack, I could keep the wheel and the rest of the front suspension intact and only remove the A arm from the frame. So far, so good disconnecting upper a arm without disassembling.jpg

Next: carefully drilling out the rivets and extracting the F-panel without damaging it. It will be more clear why I didn't want to damage it in the next paragraph Success! f panel removed without damage.jpg Truth be told, my original silicone application seemed suspect (perhaps cured in the tube before using it?), and these came out pretty easy...

Here's where careful extraction pays dividends: You can overlay the old panel with the new one to exactly replicate the rivet holes into the new panels old f panel overlayed onto fat tire panel.jpg Notice that in addition to the extra origami shape, the "Fat tire" panels are also 2.25" longer.

Careful measuring, alignment, clamping, and drilling is next. This is the halfway point to make sure the sides are evenly referenced to each other fat tire panel fitment halfway status.jpg

Here's the results: both fat tire panels roughed in.jpg They seem to align to each other well both fat tire panels aligned to each other well.jpg

I just have to file the edges a little more and then send off to powder coat...but I think I'll wait to do that until after rough fitment of the body (now that I know I can rivet these at any time without disrupting my front suspension). Ohhhh...I almost forgot one final pointer: I got non-locking 1/2-20 fine pitch nuts so I can assemble/disassemble the upper A-arm bracket to the frame without worry of losing the locking effectiveness for the original lock nuts I'll re-install the lock-nuts when I'm doing final assembly...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[gbranham]

Looks nice, but seems like a lot of work and little reward for ~20mm in tread width. Educate me! I'm curious.

[cc2Arider]

I agree about the return on investment It wasn't that much though, in the larger build picture perspective...

Mostly, I'm trying to look "down the road" at what this experience will be like in 5, 10, 20 yrs...and from reading other Builder's experiences, they tend to "tinker" for a few more years after build completion. I like having options -- I preach it to my Team at work. So, this represented an option to tackle a possible improvement that I might make in a few yrs. For me, I was concerned I wouldn't be able to do it effectively with the body mounted and finished.

I'm also trying to "hone my craft", and this was a good little project to reinforce some of the typical skills needed for these builds

Which reminds me: I'm curious about your powertrain decision...especially since you have the perspective of completing a build many years ago and building another. What were your motivations to go from a Coyote back to a Windsor engine?

Thanks for the feedback!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Sorry...I just re-read your question...and maybe I didn't answer why I chose the tires? Mostly just to look cool Maybe a slight performance advantage...but that's pure conjecture!

Craig C

PS: also, I stubbornly wanted to use them since I paid for them

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I didn't get much done on my build this weekend due to long-neglected outside chores

One thing I did get done was to re-install the body to check for the fitment of various parts. Here's a picture body test fit1.jpg.

One thing that really surprised me was that my aluminum trunk side panels really need to flex/bend just to get the lower tail-end of the body down into place. I had the body as rearward as the front quickjack frame would allow and as per previous guidance, the front part of the body gets lowered into place and then the rear part of the body is pivoted down Is this normal? I'll also ask on the main forum...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I've got more pictorial details of the body test fitment. Since the body seemed to fit reasonably well, I decided to check out how the rollbar holes were aligned. The holes need a little adjustment, but didn't seem too far out, nor moved the body appreciably during the installation of the bars. Here's some pictures for motivation

body test fit rear with roll bars.jpg body test fit rear 3-4 with roll bars.jpg body test fit side with roll bars.jpg body test fit front 3-4 with roll bars.jpg body test fit front with roll bars.jpg

More good news: Jeff's "mod" works great! I just snugged these up and it worked wonders for the trunk fitment

Kleiner mod 1.jpg Kleiner mod 2.jpg

Now the details. I know from previous guidance that a critical dimension is the door openings in relation to the striker post plate on the frame. Here's my initial fore-aft dimension
door opening longitudinal gap to striker post frame.jpg I vaguely recall Jeff recommending a 1/4" measurement. Is this correct? It seems that the thickness of the flange is about that thick...

Then I took pictures of the side-to-side offset in the same area. The Passenger-side had no relative gap passenger side no-gap to striker post frame.jpg but the Driver's side had a small gap, and should be noted that I could move it in and out relatively easily. I suspect this will come into play when I try to fit the doors later ...driver's side jam gap to striker post frame.jpg

That's all for now...more later!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Continuing on this line of temporary body fitment updates, we come to the motivation for this endeavor: Since I decided to try the "Fat Tire" F-panels and noticed that the rearward flange moved back about 2", I needed to see how it would impact the front splashguard panels. Short answer, they don't fit that great, but to be honest, I didn't check the fitment with the standard F-panels...so there's that

Setup: I located the body up/down by using the front quick jack bolts and collars, then used some plastic shimming of about 3/4" on top of the curved top hood opening tubes. I also located the rear of the body on 1/2" all-thread (Kleiner Mod). No interior Al panels were installed (and no bulb seal was therefore used, either)...

Here's some pictures. First: Underhood looking out towards the Driver's side L F inside view of splashguard1.jpg Underhood looking out towards the Passenger side R F inside view of splashguard1.jpg

Notice the gaps... Does the panel with bulb seal get wedged up against the side (with the panel flex keeping it in contact with the body), or is is supposed to fit like the top-part (nearly 90 deg joint)?

Here's some other views. Inside the engine bay looking down to each side (sidepipe view): Driver L F inside view of splashguard2.jpg Passenger R F inside view of splashguard2.jpg

I think the gap to the sidepipe opening is good. Does this look right?

Here's the wheelwell views: Driver L F view of splashguard.jpg Passenger R F view of splashguard.jpg

I think these look OK, too. Can someone confirm that this is about right, please?

I think I've got some serious massaging to do on those panels. I might decide to mock-up some chip-board or poster-board to see how far off the stock panels are...

Meanwhile, here's a couple of fun pictures. Here's the clearance to my hydraulic reservoirs I was so worried about...no sweat! underhood height to reservoir tops.jpg

Lastly, underhood view looking forward (engine view) underhood view looking forward.jpg

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I continued on my rough fitment of the body and splash panels. This weekend, it was the rear wheelwell panels...

I just didn't like how the rear inside fender panels (outside trunk panels) fit right at the short vertical 3/4" frame tube. I obsessed about this because the Build Manual instructs us to locate the rear splash panels on this tube. Here's why I took so long to prep these panels. Notice the non-parallel gap!
Driver's side driver's side trunk panel gap to frame tube.jpg Passenger side passenger side trunk panel gap to frame tube.jpg

I just couldn't have that, so I simply decided to locate the rear splash panels slightly rearward from those frame tubes. This made my decision to shim the side panels much easier. I only need 1 small shim per side to mount the side panels securely and on-plane with the different triangulated tubes. This also will allow me to fasten the splash panels thru 2 frame tubes at the top-most and bottom-most dimensions. These will be the strength mounting points. The rest will simply fasten the splashpanel flange to the trunk side panels every 2".

With that decided, I could finally mark out, drill, cleco, etc the side panels, and aesthetically leave room for the fasteners not yet installed for the splash panel flanges. I'm pleased with the outcome so far.

Here's some pictures with measurements:
passenger side: passenger side trunk panel with splash panel mockup.jpg passenger side rear splashpanel to tire.jpg Driver's side driver's side trunk panel with splashpanel mockup.jpg driver's side rear splashpanel to tire.jpg

The Driver's side splashpanel took some persuading to get the flange bend just right and match the distance to the tire from the Passenger side, and then I also had to bend the fuel tank flange on the Driver's side (this is mentioned in the Build Manual). Here's a picture of the new clearance to the fuel tank flange
fuel tank driver's side flange bent up for clearance to splashpanel.jpg

Whew! It's hot ang muggy and I'm ready for a cold one ... Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

It's pleasant weather here and finally got to some outside chores, so not a lot of Roadster build progress

I did spend some time thinking about how to choose the location of the dash panel. I know...the Build Manual tells us to locate the dash panel top edge 3/16" above the ends of the curved dash tube. Since this dimension can change depending on the side-to-side location, I took my time to locate it. I still didn't get it perfect, but I heard from the experienced builders to not expect too much precision for the panel and body measurements...

The one thing I couldn't rely on was the steering stem hole since I modified the stem alignment a little in order to fit my RT tribute steering shaft support bracket. So that left me to choose what the "critical" side-to-side measurement reference was. I chose the bottom bent flange as my reference. Maybe this choice could have been different?

Anyway, half of the width got me a centerline, and I aligned it with the centerline of the horizontal 2" cross tube, then checked for level on the bottom flange. Pretty close. I think I'm a 1/16" off. I think that's good enough, but I'd welcome any feedback! Here's the "big" picture
dash panel mockup 1.jpg

Next came some measurements against the curved dash tube, just to confirm I'm in the right location. I couldn't get the height measurements to agree side-to-side, so I'm looking for some feedback. Did I make the right decision to confirm "level" first? Then confirm "center"?

Does the height from the top of the panel to the top of the curved dash tube need to be per the Build Manual, or "good enough"?

Here's my dimensions against the top of the curved tube (with the panel "level"):
minimum Driver's side = 3/16" dash panel mockup 3-16 min to driver's curved tube.jpg

maximum height along the Driver's side to the curved tube = 7/16" dash panel mockup 7-16 max height to driver's curved tube.jpg

height at the center = 4/16" dash panel mockup 4-16 to center curved tube.jpg

maximum height along the passenger side to the curved top tube is about 9/16" dash panel mockup 9-16 max height to passenger curved tube.jpg

minimum Passenger side = 2/16" dash panel mockup 2-16 min to passenger curved tube.jpg

Once again, I'd appreciate some feedback -- let me know if I'm losing the forest for the trees...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Not a lot of build progress again this week, but I did manage to locate, drill, and cleco the Passenger side firewall extension panel. Here's a picture: passenger firewall extension panel.jpg

Next, I decided to deviate from the Build Manual again and make some experimental panels. I can't get the rear of the body mounted without really bending the rear outside trunk panels. I think after powder-coating them and adding the bulb-seal, it's not going to get any easier I also don't want to trim back the rear under body "roll-pan" because I like how it tucks neat as-is (with the raw cuts from FFR). I'd rather proceed slowly and with confidence for any trimming (either the body or the Al panels).

Sooo...here's my experiment concept. I'm going to make some extra panels just for the rear of the outside trunk panels. Then, I'll use them to locate the body and determine what exactly needs trimming If my plan works out like I want, I can easily install (or remove) these panels while the body is "on". If the concept is sound, then I'll proceed to locate the splash guards, and then that will determine where I bend my new panels to accommodate the splash panels. Then I can cut the original outside trunk panels such that it meets the new panels and then I can fasten the splash panels to both trunk panels for strength. It'll be more clear to show when I've bent my new panels

The experimental panels are sourced from McMaster-Carr (although you could get them from any reputable metal supply outlet). They are 1'x2'x0.040" 6061-T6 Al.

Anyway, here's some pictures of the panel duplication process. Driver's side: confirming layout driver's outside trunk extension panel1.jpg getting ready to locate & drill driver's outside trunk extension panel2.jpg finally, cleco'd on the chassis after matching the shape driver's outside trunk extension panel3.jpg

Then, I duplicated for the Passenger side: passenger rear outside trunk panel extension1.jpg passenger rear outside trunk panel extension2.jpg

Now, if I can just catch a break from work, I'll have more to show next weekend...Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got a little quality time in the garage this weekend and pressed on with miscellaneous panel fitment that impact the body fitment. First, I wanted to drill fastener holes into my "big tire" F-panels in a repeatable way so that I can quickly drill the "elephant ears" when that time comes. I made a simple drilling jig out of some scrap Al angle, measured and drilled holes every 2" and clamped it up. Here's the before picture front splashguard drilling jig.jpg and here's an after picture passenger f-panel drilled for splashguard.jpg

Next, I tried my proof-of-concept rear outside trunk "extension" panels by mounting the body again, but waiting to install the panels until after the body was in-place. I could get to all the clecos, and I checked the measurements again: there isn't enough room to do it the "traditional" way without really yanking on the body and/or trimming up the rear "roll pan". I'm happy with my decision to deviate from the build manual in this regard. Here's a picture: outside rear trunk panel extension proof-of-concept.jpg

Happy with the approach, my next objective was to try a trick from the Build School. Here's the tool: 1 1/4" fender washer! bulb seal gap marker tool.jpg This is used to mark the Al panels so that a consistent bulb-seal gap can be achieved. You simply place the washer on the Al panel to be marked, insert a pen into the center opening, and roll it along the gap! I tried it on the panel recommended by the Build School: the Passenger-side firewall extension. Here's a picture of the trimming needed to get a consistent fit to the cowl/upper fender area passenger firewall extension panel mock-up.jpg

I also tried it on my rear fender splashguards (although the picture quality is sub-standard) passenger rear splash guard mock-up.jpg the fit is actually pretty good for the rear splashguards

Lastly, I took a bunch of measurements of the rear suspension points as reference to the fender well opening and believe I'm "somewhat" symmetrical with the rough fitment of the rear splashguards. I have a consistent measurement from the bottom of the rear fender "lip" to the splashguard where the tab gets drilled into the underbody. Passengerpassenger rear splash guard mock-up2.jpg and Driverdriver's rear splashguard mock-up.jpg

Next weekend: front fender splashguard panel fitment

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Hope you had a nice Labor Day weekend! I got to work on my Roadster

I'm continuing where I left off from the last post -- more rough fitment of the splashguard panels. A refresher on why I'm doing this: 1) In the rear, I just didn't want to compromise on the outer trunk panel interference "fit" with the rolled under edge of the rear body shape, so I'm making my own panels that I can install after the body is mounted. Since this means cutting the trunk panels in two, I need to make sure my design still fits. 2) In the front, I am using the "fat tire" F-panels. These extend the mounting flange 2" rearward (among other things) and I needed to see how the unmodified splash panels fit with this change.

Rear splash panel: Sketch of my approach rear splashguard mounting design sketch.jpg

I measured and bent the new "extension" panels where I wanted them and confirmed the splash panels butt up against these new bent mounting flanges and still align where they used to. Some pictures of the Passenger side passenger rear splash guard mock-up after braking rear extension panel.jpg passenger rear splash guard mock-up after braking rear extension panel2.jpg passenger rear splash guard mock-up after braking rear extension panel3.jpg The Driver's side turned out the same driver's rear splashguard mock-up after braking rear extension panel.jpg driver's rear splashguard mock-up after braking rear extension panel2.jpg

With those fitting properly, I proceeded to cut the original outside trunk panels to fit. Here's the method used for marking the panels: sandwich the original and the "extension" together using the clecos passenger rear outside trunk panel marked for cutting.jpg

Thusly marked and now cut, then cleco'ed the two panels in place, and clamped the splash guards in-place to confirm overall rough fitment was maintained. Driver's side: driver's side cut outside trunk panel with extension panel and splashguard mockup.jpg driver's side cut outside trunk panel with extension panel and splashguard mockup2.jpg Passenger side fit very nicely, as well

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Having an extra day in the garage really helped me move along this weekend

I spent a good part of my time figuring out where the unmodified front splash guard panels needed to be modified to fit my "fat tire" F-panels. Recall that these panels moved the mounting flange 2" rearward...

Just for kicks, I decided to fit my original F-panel with the splash guard panels and the fitment wasn't that good anyway, so I felt a big relief that I could proceed with my modifications

My overall observation was that the splash panels "were in the ballpark", but seemed to ride "high". Here's where I started to mark passenger front splashguard prior to trimming bottom tab area.jpg and then trim up the bottom of the panels near the small body-mounting tab passenger front splashguard after initial trimming and flattening bottom tab area.jpg (notice that I flattened the original mounting tab to try to salvage as much material as possible).

Next, trimmed to fit and ready to bend a new mounting tab passenger front splashguard ready to re-bend bottom tab area.jpg

Here it is bent passenger front splashguard with re-bent bottom tab.jpg (note the area still needing to be trimmed)

I proceeded to the Driver's side. Here's a detail of the reshaped and re-bent bottom area detail of re-bent driver's side front splashguard bottom tab.jpg

Overall rough fitment of Passenger side passenger side front splashguard fitment after modification.jpg Pretty good! The Driver's side didn't fit as well (too much gap still), but I'm not too worried now since that section of body moves a lot! I suspect I won't narrow down the placement until I get much closer to final assembly and fit the doors (for reference). Anyway, here's the Driver's side driver's side front splashguard fitment after modification.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[Blitzboy54]

Hey Y'All,

It's pleasant weather here and finally got to some outside chores, so not a lot of Roadster build progress

I did spend some time thinking about how to choose the location of the dash panel. I know...the Build Manual tells us to locate the dash panel top edge 3/16" above the ends of the curved dash tube. Since this dimension can change depending on the side-to-side location, I took my time to locate it. I still didn't get it perfect, but I heard from the experienced builders to not expect too much precision for the panel and body measurements...

The one thing I couldn't rely on was the steering stem hole since I modified the stem alignment a little in order to fit my RT tribute steering shaft support bracket. So that left me to choose what the "critical" side-to-side measurement reference was. I chose the bottom bent flange as my reference. Maybe this choice could have been different?

Anyway, half of the width got me a centerline, and I aligned it with the centerline of the horizontal 2" cross tube, then checked for level on the bottom flange. Pretty close. I think I'm a 1/16" off. I think that's good enough, but I'd welcome any feedback! Here's the "big" picture
dash panel mockup 1.jpg

Next came some measurements against the curved dash tube, just to confirm I'm in the right location. I couldn't get the height measurements to agree side-to-side, so I'm looking for some feedback. Did I make the right decision to confirm "level" first? Then confirm "center"?

Does the height from the top of the panel to the top of the curved dash tube need to be per the Build Manual, or "good enough"?

Here's my dimensions against the top of the curved tube (with the panel "level"):
minimum Driver's side = 3/16" dash panel mockup 3-16 min to driver's curved tube.jpg

maximum height along the Driver's side to the curved tube = 7/16" dash panel mockup 7-16 max height to driver's curved tube.jpg

height at the center = 4/16" dash panel mockup 4-16 to center curved tube.jpg

maximum height along the passenger side to the curved top tube is about 9/16" dash panel mockup 9-16 max height to passenger curved tube.jpg

minimum Passenger side = 2/16" dash panel mockup 2-16 min to passenger curved tube.jpg

Once again, I'd appreciate some feedback -- let me know if I'm losing the forest for the trees...

Happy Building!

Craig C

As long as the corners and steering shaft hole is lined up don't worry about the radius of the frame. That top tube is not concentric or even. The body covers the tope of the dash. Jeff recommends the tip of the frame being just above the frame at the corners.

In general your build looks great. 4 wheel motorcycle is a very accurate way to describe these cars. Accelerates like a bike and corners four times as fast.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Jesse

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I deburred the edges of my "fat tire" F-panels and drilled out the splash guard mounting flange for some 8-32 screws. I'll use these with nutserts crimped on the splash panels themselves (when that time comes for final fitment).

I did the same for the outside trunk panels for the rear. I repurposed 2 of the existing 1/8" rivet holes going thru the 3/4" tubes and drilled those out for nutserts, and after crimping them in, will use as de-facto rivets. Then the splash guards will get screwed into these with 8-32 button heads. I also drilled out my new "extension" panels for nutserts, and I'll install the nutserts directly into the 3/4" tubes and bolt the whole thing with 8-32 button heads. Here's pictures of the Passenger and Driver side mocked into place after the final drilling passenger outside trunk panels drilled for nutserts.jpg driver's outside trunk panels drilled for nutserts.jpg

I still have to scuff them up with a DA sander and ScotchBrite pads before sending them off to the Powder Coater.

Happy Building

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since the weather is still pretty warm here lately, I wanted to get some minor frame modifications done so that I could prep for the inevitable painting touch-up that I'll need. One of these projects was the modification needed for the Breeze upper radiator mount. The "extra" short sections of 3/4" tube at the front outside edges of this tube get cut off to make room for the long piano-style hinge that serves as the bracket for the Breeze mount. I used a Dremel tool with a cut-off disc, but you could use other tools suitable as well. Here's a picture of the top two welds cut thru, and the tube just bent out of the way a little bit cutting off radiator support tube for Breeze mount1.jpg I then used a small adjustable wrench on this "extra" tube section and worked it back-n-forth to fatigue the other spot weld joints. These gave way on the small tube (as expected). Then I was left with some "clean-up" (filing, sanding, etc) Here's what it looked like cutting off radiator support tube for Breeze mount2.jpg Notice the factory powder coating can't get between the tubes. I knew this beforehand and planned to paint that whole section anyway.

I used Eastwood's Chassis Black, since it has a satin finish that nearly matches the sheen of the factory-applied powder coating. It has an epoxy formulation, so I used it as the basecoat for a top-coat of a big-box-store satin black product. It has a better sheen match to the factory-applied powder coating. Here's a picture of the result trimmed smoothed and painted upper radiator support tube2.jpg

I'm happy with that I'll try to do the same to the various areas on the frame that have already seen some "rash". I'll try to get these done before it gets too cold outside...

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I still had one more session of measuring, marking, and drilling for my new trunk "extension" panels before I send them off to powder coating. Since I expect the rear splash panels to be fit at a much later stage of assembly, I wanted the mounting flange (both edges) to have precisely-located nutsert holes. This is because I'll not have access to mark one of the flange side holes during final fitment. So I dug out a piece of aluminum that I had used 20 yrs ago as a test piece to true a milling machine. Here's a picture of the chunk of aluminum trunk extension flange hole marking tool.jpg

Since each face is 90deg to the others, I simply lined up one edge to the existing flange holes, and this positioned the other edge precisely on the other flange. Here's after marking the other flange passenger side trunk extension flange detail b4 drilling.jpg Here's after drilling passenger side trunk extension flange detail after drilling for nutserts.jpg The Driver's side has a better picture driver's side trunk extension flange detail after drilling for nutserts.jpg

With that done, I cleaned and scuffed the panels for powder coating. These got sent to the powder coater along with my similarly-prepped "fat tire" panels and fuse panel. panels ready for powder coating.jpg

While I was at it, I removed all of my pre-made brackets, and those got sent to the powder coater for a satin black finish brackets ready for powder coating.jpg

Lastly, I took apart all of my hardlines from the frame and removed other pre-assembled parts so that I can touch-up some of the frame "rash" with some paint. It's kinda difficult to take some steps back, but it has to be done while I can do it Here's the nearly bare chassis ready for some scuffing, masking, and spot painting frame ready again for touch up paint.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This post is not that informative, but rather simply, a date stamped update about what I've been working on...also, the picture quality isn't that great

I cleaned, scuffed, and masked some parts of my frame for some touch-up spray painting. I used a combination of Eastwood Chassis Black (with a satin finish) and a "drop" coat of Krylon Satin black (because the sheen is a little better match to the factory powder-coating). Most of this effort last weekend was due to the factory powder-coating peeling off easily on the driver's side main frame tube and the front lower quick jack tube. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this or not. I suspect perhaps the metal just wasn't cleaned well enough (or maybe was not scuffed enough)...

The only helpful tip to our community is to roll the masking tape back a little at each masked boundary so that you don't make a "hard" edge. This is commonly known by the painting professionals, but maybe some Novices haven't tried it yet.

Anyway, here's some (admittedly poor quality) pictures: Front quickjack lower frame tube driver's side front lower quick jack frame tube re-paint.jpg driver's side front lower quick jack frame tube re-paint2.jpg

Driver's side main frame tube driver's side main frame tube re-paint1.jpg driver's side main frame tube re-paint2.jpg driver's side main frame tube re-paint3.jpg driver's side main frame tube re-paint4.jpg

Next update: more of the same

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I prepped for more engine bay paint touch-ups this weekend. First up is the main cross frame tube. I scuffed it the last time I removed my engine

I tried an interesting paint masking product: round foam strips with adhesive on one side. They're normally meant for masking door jambs, but I liked that I could snake them around compound curves and they'd leave a soft paint edge. Here's pictures right after paint touch-up. They're the white noodle looking things on the ends.
Looking frontengine bay cross frame tube repaint1.jpg Looking back engine bay cross frame tube repaint2.jpg You can still see some blotchiness in the photos, but they dried pretty well...

Next up, my engine bay top and side 3/4" square tubes. These got some rash after test fitting the body and front splash guards. Here's right after painting engine bay top & side tube repaint1.jpg engine bay top & side tube repaint2.jpg

and after removing all the masking engine bay top & side tube repaint3.jpg engine bay top & side tube repaint4.jpg

The picture quality is a little better, and if you can't tell where I painted, then that was my goal

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I got some Stainless rivnuts for my rear splashguards, but I thought I'd try them out on my Russ Thompson tribute drop trunk, too

I used a screw-type swaging tool, but you could also use the two hand-press style. I'd caution against using the cheap HF single-hand grip style. The seating anvil has a conical shape to it and that easily messes up the front face.

Obligatory picture RT drop trunk SS rivnuts.jpg

Then I installed some SS rivnuts for my trunk outer side panels. These will be used to fasten my rear splashguards later trunk outer side panels with SS rivnuts.jpg My trunk side panel "extensions" will get the same treatment this week...

Until then, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Yey Y'All,

Since my "touch-up the frame blemishes with paint" task is done, I can focus on getting back to my build plan...but 1st, I need to catch-up to the Build Manual sequence.

Today, I riveted and bonded my "fat tire" F-panels. Then, that allowed me to final torque the front upper A-arm pivots to the frame. Here's some pictures: build manual page 29 & 35 catch-up1.jpg build manual page 29 & 35 catch-up2.jpg

This one shows how the panels allow for more steering clearance: build manual page 29 & 35 catch-up3.jpg

It's nice to see color back on the chassis again!

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

More catching up to the Build Manual sequence...this time it's page 117. First up, I bonded my Firewall shims to the frame. The Passenger side shim was needed to prevent deforming the panel since most of the rivets are along the 2x2 frame cross-member build manual page 117 catch-up1.jpg The Driver's side shim stack was needed to fit the top of the footbox properly build manual page 117 catch-up2.jpg

With the shims pre-bonded, I riveted and bonded the firewall build manual page 117 catch-up3.jpg build manual page 117 catch-up4.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

In keeping with my goal of making the body installation/removal easier, I'm experimenting with a way to remove/reattach the rear trunk panel "lip"...

When I cut it off and fabricate a means to reattach it, I'll call it the "trunk floor pan extension". My plan is to simply add a piece of Al "angle" stock (1/16" thick) to the most rearward bend of the trunk floor pan. Then when I'm happy with the fit, I'll cut along that bend line and fasten both sides to the "angle" stock bracket.

Here's me getting started by lining up my existing rivet holes trunk pan extension bracket1.jpg and here's the bracket mounted with the panel in-place trunk pan extension bracket2.jpg

This is 1" wide on each side...I'm thinking about getting wider stock to reinforce the joint better and possibly space-out the new riv-nut locations to make it accessible once the "Kleiner mod" couplers and the tank are in-place...I'll think about this more this week before making that final lengthwise cut

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since I need to send my Driver's front footbox panel back to the Powder Coater, I figured I ought to fit the outer patch panel to get that coated, too. My previously measured rivet locations weren't too far off and this allowed me to use the existing holes on the outer edge. I spaced the additional holes 1 & 7/8 " and this prevented any fitment issues with the thick pedal reinforcement plate

Here's the status update picture driver's front footbox patch panel fitment.jpg

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since I haven't yet fastened my trunk panels, I've been experimenting with different rear harness routings...

I think I settled on routing this harness along the Driver's side trans tunnel (like many others have done) , and up underneath the stock battery location. No real differences so far. Whereas I thought I'd continue towards the Passenger side under the trunk panels, I changed my mind...too much going on near my fuel lines. I'll instead route the harness back towards the Driver's side by locating it underneath the frame tube that triangulates out toward the Driver's side roll bar support tube mount.

Here's some pictures since I didn't explain very well rear harness routing1.jpg rear harness routing2.jpg rear harness routing3.jpg

I'll try to locate the "trailer harness adapter" in this general area, too. Then I'll route along the perimeter of the fuel tank on the small 3/4" square frame tubes from the Driver's taillight area, back along the rear, finally splitting off for the Fuel tank sending unit and pump and the Passenger side taillights. I think there is enough wire length to get everything routed and connected properly

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

I continued with my trunk panel "extension" experiment this past weekend. As expected, I just wasn't happy with the narrower angle stock for my prototype design, so I got a piece of 1& 3/4" Al angle in the 1/16" thickness. This fit my needs better It had coverage for the other rivets/fastener locations and I think will exhibit more strength in the area where I had to cut out access for the Passenger-side fuel tank strap hanger bracket.

But first, I needed to cut off the "extension" panel carefully from the existing rear trunk floor panel. I used an extra straight edge, some blue painter's tape and a dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. It was slow, but the narrow cut-off wheel allowed me to preserve as much of the original panel as possible. Here's some pictures of the progress:

Bracket fitted
rear trunk panel extension bracket.jpg rear trunk panel extension bracket strap detail.jpg

Then I decided to just make a new panel because I wanted to optimize the cut-out area for the tank strap...

New extension panel being shaped
rear trunk panel extension1.jpg rear trunk panel extension2.jpg

Fitted extension
rear trunk panel extension fitted1.jpg rear trunk panel extension fitted2.jpg

Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

After a weekend of catching up on other chores, it was good to get back in the Garage today (I took the day off)

Today, I decided where to mount my Tail/Turn signal converter box. This then made the reference location for the rest of the rear harness zip-tie mounting locations...

Since I decided to route the rear harness along the Driver's side of the trunk, here is the result. First, swage the riv-nuts (this time I used Aluminum riv-nuts) turn signal converter mounting1.jpg

Then mount temporarily with button head 8-32 turn signal converter mounting2.jpg This location will allow me to route the rear part of the harness without interfering with the trunk floor panel, and will allow me to run the license plate harness up the Driver's side rear Roll Bar.

Next, locate for the zip-tie mount turn signal converter mounting3.jpg

And temporarily check the zip-tie effectiveness turn signal converter mounting4.jpg

Up next: more rear harness zip-tie mount layout

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

Since I selected the Tail/Turn signal converter box location, this left me a reference to plan out the rest of the rear harness zip-tie mounting locations going back towards the front of the vehicle. This was kinda messy work since the drilling on the bottom of the chassis produced the inevitable metal shavings in the face It was good to cross this off the list, though

Planning the routing left me with about 9" between zip-tie mounting locations. I also had to consider whether I could get a right-angle drill attachment in the chosen locations and whether I could install the Aluminum riv-nuts properly with the tool. Lastly, I had to imagine if I ever needed to remove/replace these with the panels and drivetrain installed, and plan for that...

Starting at the Driver's Rear trunk 45 deg angled 1" square frame tube on the trunk floor rear harness zip tie mount1.jpg, working forward towards the center of the trunk floor (under the Driver's side of the stock battery tray) rear harness zip tie mount2.jpg, down the short 1" square tube leading to the trans tunnel rear harness zip tie mount3.jpg, rounding the bottom corner back up along the Driver's side trans tunnel (underneath view) rear harness zip tie mount4.jpg, and side viewrear harness zip tie mount5.jpg

Next post, more of a perspective of the rear harness routing (instead of the details)

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

It's difficult to see the "big" picture from my previous post about the rear harness detailed zip-tie mounting locations, so here's a few perspective views:
rear harness perspective1.jpg rear harness perspective2.jpg rear harness perspective3.jpg

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

This weekend I continued the mockup and layout confirmation of the rear harness. First up: locating the zip-tie mounting brackets so that I could tuck away the speedo signal harness (and preserve it for use in the future). Actually, I didn't realize at first that it was not going to be used until I read ahead in the build manual but since I was planning to use it, I gave enough thought to it (if that need ever came up)... Eventually, this will get the full split-loom treatment speedo sensor harness mockup routing.jpg

Next up: planning for the zip-tie mounting brackets for the rear lights and fuel tank sub-harness routing. Here's the mock-up results rear harness trunk routing1.jpg rear harness trunk routing2.jpg

Next Post will be the details with the fuel tank mocked-up...

Craig C

[cc2Arider]

Hey Y'All,

As promised, here are some perspective pictures of the rear harness routing with the fuel tank mocked into place: Notice that I mounted the Passenger-side bracket high enough so that it doesn't interfere with the fitment of the fuel tank. Also note the MagDaddy zip-tie mounts for the fuel tank sub harness. These will allow me to loop the extra length to overcome the challenges when mounting the tank itself. rear harness fuel tank details.jpg

Here's some perspective pictures with the trunk floor temporarily in place rear harness fuel tank details2.jpg rear harness fuel tank details3.jpg rear harness fuel tank details4.jpg

Here's the confirmation that the routing will tuck neatly under the outside trunk side panel. rear harness perspective4.jpg Note the convenient zip-tie bracket location for the rear lights (same as the nut-sert location for the panel itself)

Until next time, Happy Building!

Craig C