Florin Hill Roadster Thread

[zarnold]

Wait, are you asking if you should use two sets of washers on the banjo bolt? Nope, only one set (there are double banjos, where you need 4 washers, but that's another application).

[Railroad]

I would not double stack the washers, due to the amount of thread engagement you will lose. Also, just another place to leak, no advantage.
Use either set of washers one of each side of the banjo fitting.
good luck,

[nashuanuke]

I would not double stack the washers, due to the amount of thread engagement you will lose. Also, just another place to leak, no advantage.
Use either set of washers one of each side of the banjo fitting.
good luck,

Upon reflection, I agree. I took the washers that came with the calipers out. My biggest thought was the increased chance of leakage. Thanks.

[nashuanuke]

Front brake lines in. I got cocky with the last bend into the master cylinder. It's flexed a little, but I don't think the line is compromised or obstructed. I'll defer to anyone that knows more.
front brake line mast cylinder.jpg

I'm also not thrilled with the passenger side, I tried to make it fancy but ran out of line and had to uncoil it. But it works...assuming I don't have interference issues later.
front brake line driver's side.jpgfront brake line passenger side.jpgfront brake pedal box.jpg

[nashuanuke]

note for future builders. If you go with the "stock" 11.65" brakes in the rear. The soft lines, connections and banjo bolts all look identical...except the thread on the banjo bolts. The front brakes take a smaller thread. I put the rear bolts in both front calipers before I realized. The correct ones still fit and seem to be torqued good, I guess I'll find out if I did any irreparable damage when I bleed them.

[nashuanuke]

anybody had a cracked master cylinder before? Going to see if Willwood will help me out, discovered while bleeding them for the first time.
cracked master cylinder.jpg

[Nigel Allen]

Looks like the tapered brass fitting has been overtightened. It is easy to do. I have first hand experience.

[nashuanuke]

you can overtighten that? it's brass? Well I guess that's it.

[Mike.Bray]

Wilwood quality isn't what it used to be. One of the reasons I went with Tilton.

[nashuanuke]

Brakes...are...bled. I sprung for a vacuum system from Craftsman at Lowes. Could not keep a vacuum on the connection. I finally had my wife come out and help me do it the old fashioned way, no issues beyond a little leakage on the banjo bolts that seems to be addressed with a retorquing. Well minus the above mentioned cracked master cylinder. I found a replacement on Amazon, no shipping with Prime for those that are interested.

On to fuel system, tank and pump are in, I just need to set up the filter and run the soft lines I purchased from Summit. With the IRS, space is getting tight. I ordered this angled AN 6 fitting for the outlet of the fuel filter, I figure I'll attach it as shown here and then run the line down the passenger side frame.
fuel filter location.jpg

[nashuanuke]

Haven't posted in a while, I've been working on a lot of little projects...and it's been cold and nasty out. Anyways, I'm just about done routing the fuel lines. I went with braided aluminum soft lines, which I don't know how I feel about now that I am trying to bend them up into the engine compartment, I'm afraid I'm going to kink them.
fuel lines engine compartment.jpgfuel lines trunk area.jpgfuel lines wheel well.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]197719

If not obvious from the previous, I've also started on the wiring. I'm putting in a speaker and a bluetooth enabled amplifier, I've managed to wire that up to the front, along with seat heaters. I'm just waiting to get the engine in before I finish wiring it to the battery (Breeze battery box already installed).

spaghetti dash.jpg

I've also started on the dash and center console. I'm going with a wood finish. I've got the veneer glued on and stained. For the console I have holes for cup holders and the seat heater switches. I plan to use the pour on finish this weekend. So far things seem to be working well, we'll see what the final finish looks like. I'll probably need to find some sort of trim for the center console, maybe a stainless steel lip.

console.jpgdash and console.jpgdash.jpgpour on.jpg

[nashuanuke]

Spent the weekend wrapping up a couple of loose ends. Not a lot to show for it, but it felt good to get them done. I wrapped up the fuel system, I have delivery from tank all the way to regulator. I went back and lubricated the o-rings in the fuel tank, too many people said I needed to. And I fixed the fuel tank strap bolt, which was missing its washer. Then I cleaned my shop up. Ready for the next project.

[nashuanuke]

fuel filter is in, drop drunk too, it's rough, I don't have the best tools for that, but it's smooth and will get covered in carpet.

drop trunk.jpgfuel regulator.jpg

Engine's going in soon, I put the tires on to get the car low and stable, need to adjust the toe on the rear ones just a tad

needs a toe adjustment.jpg

[F500guy]

If I got a dollar for every tool I wish I had during this build...sometimes you got make due!

[nashuanuke]

Engine's in. I won't say it was easy and I didn't ding the powder coat up a little. But not terrible. My biggest issue was the TD Motion lift brackets I bought. They make a great product if you're lifting this in and out of a Mustang, but in the MK4 the driver's side bracket comes out too far. I had to remove both my reservoirs and the steering rack as interference. And still the bracket was scraping up against the frame. This caused the engine to pitch over and mess up the alignment for the mount pins. It took a lot of back and forth before I could get it in just right, but eventually it worked. Oh and the Harbor Freight load leveler worked...but it was well, a Harbor Freight tool, I might spring for something a little sturdier next time.

Also, with the engine in, I feel like I'm off to the races getting the electrical wired up. I'll get some photos of that next. I also put in my order for cooling components (Mustang expansion tank, hoses, and Breeze radiator mounts).

engine in.jpg

[Mike.Bray]

I found this leveler worked very well, I even removed and reinstalled my engine/trans by myself using it. You can remove the handle and use a socket and ratchet or speedhandle to adjust it.

[nashuanuke]

Build update, been working right along now that the engine's in.

E-brake done, was tighter than I expected. I had to connect the lines to the handle then go to the rear and connect them to the brakes, and it took some elbow grease. Also, the "stock" 11.65" brakes have an interesting setup to get the e-brake into the coil. Took some wrestling and hammering.

Transmission is coupled to rear diff and liquids added to rear diff, transmission and engine. I pulled the drain on the rear diff and apparently FFR shipped it already with fluids added, meh, I put the same stuff right back in. For the engine priming, I used the rig from this video https://youtu.be/jBdFHSdA588?si=laXY3yTRLJu-pU0S, with this fitting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085X68CMJ...t_details&th=1 that fit into the adapter for the FFR oil meter. There's a couple of videos that describe using this rig and listening for the oil coming out of the headers, the actual sound you're listening for is the air, so pump about two quarts in, then let the pump get down until you're pump air and then listen for the sound of the air moving through the oil into the uppers.

Electrical is moving along, once you get started, working with the coyote harness isn't too bad. Shout out to i.e. 427's many videos on wiring these things.

The Breeze battery box is in and battery electrical is wired (not connected), the one thing I didn't do is he for some reason provides a second ground cable from the engine block, I'd already wired the ground strap FFR provides, and didn't see a reason to do a second. Unless I'm missing something, that strap is hefty and that engine is grounded.

Power steering is plumbed, had some leaks so I've added thread sealer, hopefully it does the trick.

Coolant system is all done. Radiator installed with the Breeze mounts, UPF expansion tank is in with Mishimoto hoses for the Coyote connections. Good thing the adapter I bought for the oil primer came in a two pack, the other one was a perfect fit for the upper radiator vent. I managed to use the provided hoses to get the main lines from the engine to the radiator and back. We'll see is those hold up. The lower one feels flimsy, I'm going to try using the bracket that came with the FFR fuel filter I didn't use to mount the lower line to the cross bar for a little extra support.

[Windsor]

Power steering is plumbed, had some leaks so I've added thread sealer, hopefully it does the trick.

This will likely end up requiring more attention.

IIRC the power steering lines are o-ring style, so gooping the threads won't help. I recommend pulling it apart and looking for damaged o-rings.

[nashuanuke]

the leaks were on the AN fittings, did take some work, but seems tight now.

[nashuanuke]

First start.

The bad:
1. got smoke off the headers, didn't like that but once I realized it was expected, it burned off and was good
2. power steering, can't seem to get the air out of the system, the expansion tank keeps getting fluid out the vent. It might have finally stopped, but right when I thought things were getting better, 3 happened.
3. Blew out the FFR supplied coupling on the lower radiator hose when I raised RPMs. I think I have a good setup, minus that one weak point, I'm thinking of trying these: https://www.amazon.com/JoyTube-Radia...2e48d7b77&th=1 to make that connection tighter.
4. had a small fuel leak on the Pro-M hanger pump outlet, when I tightened it the nozzle fitting broke off. They say to Counter torque it and they're right. I have my opinions about the quality of that part, but in any case, I was able to get a local welder to fix it for $30, much better than the $200 for a new hanger.
5. I don't know what FFR's intent was for the fuel line from the regulator to the rack, but whatever I thought was did not work without blowing fuel all over the engine (thankfully before it started). I bought one of these and some more AN6 hose: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNN6HXNV...roduct_details

Good: oil pressure was good, fan came on as expected, rest of the electrical seems to have worked.