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Thread: Intro plus question

  1. #1
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    Intro plus question

    Hey everyone,

    I live in Spokane, WA. I ordered the 35 kit a few weeks ago and have started prepping while waiting. So far, I have a 6.0 iron block LS that was built for boost but I'm going to start NA. I found a 2005 rear end at the junk yard that I plan on cleaning up. I want to go with the Tremec TKX, which I have yet to order. Currently debating wheels and that's where my question lies. I think I was to go with a staggered set up, anyone have experience with a 18x10 rear and 18x7 front?

    image0.jpeg
    image1.jpeg

  2. #2
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    You're biggest concern will be fitment under the fenders.... that is if you ordered them?

    Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  3. #3
    Junior Member FatherAndSon's Avatar
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    Welcome Chris!

    I was just in your shoes, trying to figure out what would fit and what I wanted. Two of the guys I spoke with each did 19's in the front and 20's in the back. There is a post on here where the guy went with 18x10s all around, but you're asking about staggering so I'm not sure how much help that is.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-size-question

    I was going to go staggered but ended up finding a great deal on Facebook marketplace for some 19x8.5 wheels and tires that I really liked. I'm happy with them so far. I also have a rear end that I pulled and cleaned up. Boy was that fun!
    Matthew and Noah
    '35 Hot Rod Truck - 5.0L 302
    Wake Forest, NC
    @father.and.son.35

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkassab View Post
    You're biggest concern will be fitment under the fenders.... that is if you ordered them?

    Mark
    Sorry, no fenders.

  5. #5
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    Motor is pretty much ready, injectors are on their way. Currently in the process of cleaning up the rear end and then will POR15. Still can't decide on wheels, I want them to have a nice lip to them, trying to figure out offset and backspacing. I was thinking I may go with the same size all around so i can rotate tires.

    FFR 35 Engine.jpg
    FFR 35 Rear End.jpg

  6. #6

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    I suggest you study Paul B.'s truck build thread for a master class on how to do it. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...od-Truck-Build Pretty much any question you have is addressed in there.

    Have fun with the build!

    Keith HR #894

  7. #7
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    I'm about halfway through his build, thanks! I got the rear end looking better today.
    POR15 rear 2.jpgPOR15 rear end.jpg

  8. #8
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    What did you pull your rearend from?

    I don't remember spring perches on mine.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Guardm16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatherAndSon View Post
    Welcome Chris!

    I was just in your shoes, trying to figure out what would fit and what I wanted. Two of the guys I spoke with each did 19's in the front and 20's in the back. There is a post on here where the guy went with 18x10s all around, but you're asking about staggering so I'm not sure how much help that is.
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-size-question

    I was going to go staggered but ended up finding a great deal on Facebook marketplace for some 19x8.5 wheels and tires that I really liked. I'm happy with them so far. I also have a rear end that I pulled and cleaned up. Boy was that fun!
    There are a lot of people who go both ways. stagger and all square, there are advantages to both. For me, I went with the square, I just like the look and being able to rotate the tires is never a bad thing.
    Roller 1.jpg
    grill.jpg

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  11. #10
    Junior Member FatherAndSon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuffShod View Post
    What did you pull your rearend from?

    I don't remember spring perches on mine.
    I pulled mine from a 2006 GT and it had them.
    20231104_132528.jpg

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ruffshod View Post
    what did you pull your rearend from?

    I don't remember spring perches on mine.
    2005 gt.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guardm16 View Post
    There are a lot of people who go both ways. stagger and all square, there are advantages to both. For me, I went with the square, I just like the look and being able to rotate the tires is never a bad thing.
    Roller 1.jpg
    grill.jpg
    I think I'm going to go square. Now I gotta figure out what offset and backspacing to have a lip on the rim and still clear everything. I've read articles on it and still find myself scratching my head.

  14. #13
    Senior Member Guardm16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris H. View Post
    I think I'm going to go square. Now I gotta figure out what offset and backspacing to have a lip on the rim and still clear everything. I've read articles on it and still find myself scratching my head.
    OK, this where I wish I had done a little more research. I admit, I got a great deal from American Muscle on the 18x10 rims that fit a 2009 Mustang GT. At $110 a rim I couldn't pass. On that point once mounted on the Moser Rear end with the Wilwood brakes, the rear wheels were only about 3/4 of an inch from the upper mounting point for the truck bed side. Obviously too close, I will find a spacer once the bed is on so that I can get the proper stance. As for the front, I think this offset really was made for the rear of the mustang, once installed, the front just looked too narrow and the steering was limited by the rims contacting the control arms. I added a 2 inch spacer behind the wheel and solved both problems. That being said, I think if I were to do it all over again, I would buy a rim with a "Negative 2" offset (moves the centerline of the rim farther outward) from what I purchased. But, I wanted the look of a flush rim (no dish) and, as I said, they were a great deal. Hope this helped.

    Wheels.jpg

    https://www.google.com/search?q=what...TJe8HFnTc,st:0
    Last edited by Guardm16; 05-30-2024 at 03:20 PM.

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  16. #14
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    Does anyone know if the kit comes with a shift lever? I specified I'm using a TKX trans when ordered.

  17. #15
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    My kit came with the shift leaver and knob. I think it depends on what options you ordered

    Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

  18. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris H. View Post
    Does anyone know if the kit comes with a shift lever? I specified I'm using a TKX trans when ordered.
    Mine did not.

    383/700R4

    I ended up buying a B&M Pro Gate

  19. #17
    Senior Member Guardm16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RuffShod View Post
    Mine did not.

    383/700R4

    I ended up buying a B&M Pro Gate
    Not to hijack this thread, but how did you attach the B&M? to the tunnel or to the transmission itself? you can PM me.

  20. #18
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    It will be mounted to the tunnel.

  21. #19
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    Truck should be delivered tomorrow and has me thinking about logistics. I know the manual has you start with suspension but is there any real reason I shouldn't install the motor/trans first? I'd like to free up some space in the garage.

  22. #20
    Senior Member Guardm16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris H. View Post
    Truck should be delivered tomorrow and has me thinking about logistics. I know the manual has you start with suspension but is there any real reason I shouldn't install the motor/trans first? I'd like to free up some space in the garage.
    I don't see an issue with installing the motor/trans before the suspension, but you have to have the firewall done first.

  23. #21
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    I'm going to be running hydraulic clutch. I'm installing the firewall now and it says if running a manual clutch, cut out a hole for clutch cable. Is this also required for hydraulic clutch line?

  24. #22
    Senior Member mkassab's Avatar
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    NO, Not required. I ran my hydraulic hose inside the firewall between the firewall and the trans tunnel. I just cut a notch in the fiberglass where it touches the firewall.

    Mark
    Mark
    '35 Truck
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...35-Truck-Build
    Brevard, NC

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  26. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkassab View Post
    NO, Not required. I ran my hydraulic hose inside the firewall between the firewall and the trans tunnel. I just cut a notch in the fiberglass where it touches the firewall.

    Mark
    Thanks Mark!

  27. #24
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    My first hiccup so far besides most the of the suspension spacers not fitting. Attempting to bolt on the engine mounts and the mount plate bolts are hitting the strengthening fins so it won't let it the 4 mount holes to sit flush. Do I need to grind down the fins?

  28. #25
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    Making some decent progress. Started working on the doors, total pain in the butt. Also seems like they only gave me enough hardware for one door.

    Buttons.jpg

  29. #26
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    I cannot, for the life of me, figure our where this end of the headlight harness plugs in. Any advice?

    headlight harness.jpg

  30. #27
    Senior Member Pat Landymore's Avatar
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    Howdy Chris:

    I did that part of my kit back in 2019. At that time IIRC, there was a toggle switch for high/low beam…meaning that I had to cut off the connector and install a switch. Actually I extended the wires and used a 1960’s type Ford floor mounted dimmer switch.

    Seeing as that was a few years ago now, hopefully someone who has completed a newer kit also chimes in.

    Hope this helps!
    Cheers,
    Pat
    Once again with an 88 mm Turbo, Big Block Chevy powered, ‘35 Hot Rod Pickup

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