M22 Cobra Build (MICHIGAN) - Coyote Pedal Dilemma 2.0??

[M22_COBRA]

Looks like its finally my turn! Delivery is scheduled for 6/28-29/24

Post Covid you start to change your perspective on things, one of which was time with Dad. Decided that this was a great way to build something that would last beyond our time together and that meant something. I sold my SRT-4 that I loved and saved up for the complete kit for over 2 years.
The plan is to make this a cruiser as up in Northern Michigan we have nice windy roads with incredible views, no racing or auto-x, those days are behind me just a spirited run thru the gears is all I want. M22 is the scenic road that runs all over the west side of the state and if you have never been to Northern Michigan its BEAUTIFUL. We moved here after being down south for so long decided to go home. But I refused to live in Metro Detroit where I'm from...NO. After being southernized I need my space. Luckily the job lets me work 100% remote as long as I'm in state they don't care.
When I pitched the idea to my wife and she gave me the green saying its the perfect car for up here and it blew my mind. I was waiting for a outright no and hoping for a maybe someday.

Short summary of me and my experience. I worked on cars growing up, I got into engineering and made a career out of it, spent 15 years in the top series in NASCAR as an design engineer, spent many years in the lower levels (Truck, Xfinity, Arca) doing everything from setup plate, tire changer, crew chief, mechanic, shock and spring guy, aero tech, ect.... you get the idea, Ive done every job except drive the hauler and the Sunday car. Now I work on design items for the government, transportation projects, and the IMSA GT3 Corvette. I stay busy.

The car is fairly basic:
Complete kit
Coyote - TKO 600 (going to Forte for the full setup)
2018 IRS donor
2018 donor Rears
3.55 IRS gear
Manual steering
Manual brakes
dual roll bar - I love my wife
Color - TBD or is it????
17" Halibrand wheels 9x10 - got them on sale which is what pushed me to go NOW

I've done the chassis and body bucks. I just have to run the last screws in on the body buck and we are up. I was trying to save room in the garage till its time. The wife is forfeiting our spots so I can do this so.... keeper! The IRS was delivered a while ago and I have that torn down and everything is cleaned. Lets see if I can figure how to post photos... May do the caliper repaint this weekend if I get bored. I think just basic black front and rear on calipers will suffice. Also been hoarding tools off marketplace, garage sales, ect. Got my brake flaring tools, riv gun, low profile jack, ect.... Overall just getting the garage ready for the process.
I do have some race parts from a previous life as my plan is to sprinkle those in the build of the car so from the color to the components it tells a story. Stay tuned on that one. I've got a plan for some Breeze parts after reading the other build pages and doing some dash upgrades.

My plan is to concentrate on good craftsmanship vs perfection. While I have experience with race cars and can design anything, I know I am missing a lot of knowledge for this endeavor and look forward to learning. Also trying to do this on a budget and doing more with less without cutting corners be a focus. Been reading the build threads every night since 2022 and feel I have a good notebook of reminders but I think this thread will help me get engaged with the community better. CUZ IM GONNA NEED YA'LLS HELP! I can feel it!

Here's the Instagram link, give me a follow and see more photos!
https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra?...hpeW40cQ%3D%3D

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[bil1024]

Congrats, your off to a great start!

[M22_COBRA]

Reserverd for index & fast finding

[M22_COBRA]

Spent the day painting the calipers. Figured the gloss black was the way to go with this car. Just feel that I want it to be very understated in that area. Color calipers are very situational in my opinion, and this car just doesn't need them.

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Also spent time setting up my benches, and my new $20 drill press find on Facebook. Still questioning if I should go after that. $100 60 gallon air compressor. I plan on eventually painting the car. I don't know. Maybe I'll wait.

With what time was left today, cleaned up the garage pre-drilled the holes in the body buck so I can put the legs on and sat and read some build threads. Can't wait for his thing to start.

[M22_COBRA]

OK so, I wont get it delivered today as planned. But tomorrow.....Tomorrow is GONNA BE A BIG DAMN DAY!
For now all I can do is sit and daydream while I stare at the "ultrasound" photos that the nice folks at FFR sent me.
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On another note I did pre-emptively go get a set of the Moog K772 ball joints just in case mine are shhhh. I don't really see marking on them that designates K772, but it does have 5485 on the housing, seems odd (maybe I goofed the # order there) I've read enough to know what a pain these are, but maybe with a wire wheel I'll be in luck with the stockers and the Moog's can go back. Pockets aren't deep enough for the Howe. Besides we won lots a races on Moog's so WTH, we will see what we get.

Also unpacked two new tools from amazon. My budget Rivnut pliers and my budget knockoff Eastwood brake line flare. Not exactly cheap but definitely less expensive than the name brand and to be honest the quality is pretty good. The flare tool is probably not as subjectively "smooth" as the Eastwood but it has all the same dies and they look nice. At the end of the day I'm ramming steel into NiCop and it just has to be straight and not leak. I'll try the brake flare first thing once the kit arrives and do a slight pressure test. If I'm not impressed, Amazon Prime is a beautiful thing.
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[gbranham]

OK so, I wont get it delivered today as planned. But tomorrow.....Tomorrow is GONNA BE A BIG DAMN DAY!
For now all I can do is sit and daydream while I stare at the "ultrasound" photos that the nice folks at FFR sent me.
body1.jpgbody2.jpg

On another note I did pre-emptively go get a set of the Moog K772 ball joints just in case mine are shhhh. I don't really see marking on them that designates K772, but it does have 5485 on the housing, seems odd (maybe I goofed the # order there) I've read enough to know what a pain these are, but maybe with a wire wheel I'll be in luck with the stockers and the Moog's can go back. Pockets aren't deep enough for the Howe. Besides we won lots a races on Moog's so WTH, we will see what we get.

Also unpacked two new tools from amazon. My budget Rivnut pliers and my budget knockoff Eastwood brake line flare. Not exactly cheap but definitely less expensive than the name brand and to be honest the quality is pretty good. The flare tool is probably not as subjectively "smooth" as the Eastwood but it has all the same dies and they look nice. At the end of the day I'm ramming steel into NiCop and it just has to be straight and not leak. I'll try the brake flare first thing once the kit arrives and do a slight pressure test. If I'm not impressed, Amazon Prime is a beautiful thing.
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I've used many double flare tools, and none of them has produced results as consistently and as easily as this little $40 Amazon special. It's crazy.

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[scspeedster]

Looks like Shipping buddies . . . That's my truck next to your cobra -

[M22_COBRA]

I did see that one and was curious, thanks for the input. If this one I got doesn't pan out I may definitely be headed that direction next.

[M22_COBRA]

Looks like Shipping buddies . . . That's my truck next to your cobra -

I saw that and wondered if the owner would see it being that this is in the Roadster side. Congrats!

[M22_COBRA]

Well car was delivered Saturday. It rained just as we tried to unload. To make matters worse the truck couldn't make it into the neighborhood. So your type 2 kind of fun was had. We pushed and pulled the car on my chassis dolly about 1/2 mile up and down hills via the Tacoma. But got it in the garage safe and sound. The 600# HF wheels seemed excessive but now they were a life saver getting it transported.

The past few days I've just spent doing the inventory. Most everything is in the kit, like I'm shocked actually. I'm only missing the air filter, some random build seals, and a piece of fuel line???
The drive shaft size gave me a laugh. I figure I have another 3 hours and the inventory will be done. Just trying to get organized before I pull the body off and get to work.
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[Windsor]

The drive shaft size gave me a laugh.

"It must be cold outside!"

[M22_COBRA]

"It must be cold outside!"

Maybe it has performance anxiety on it's big day? 🤣

Got the inventory done. Only thing on the MIK was some weatherstripping. I'll call that a win. Plan to hit it hard over the "Merica' extravaganza of freedom" this weekend. Just got to get a couple extra hands to come over and help remove the body.

[M22_COBRA]

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So yesterday I got the body off with the help of my neighbor and his sons. Then started tearing down the aluminum panels and marking the overlaps. For the most part I feel the fit was pretty decent, but some of the joints towards the back of the foot box got a little sloppy, hopefully I won't have to trim them. Sounds like for the most part you shouldn't have to trim at all.
I may have missed the opportunity on the rear while the body was on to mark that 3/16 Gap to the rear aluminum for the bulb seal, but I'm sure I'll have another opportunity.

Today's focus will just be to finish out the aluminum and to start hanging the front suspension. Happy 4th y'all!

[M22_COBRA]

Got the lowers on and used the washers at the front of the rear position only, the front bushing seemed pretty spot on. But on the DS the rear bushing seemed to need just under 2 washers to the front of the rear leg bushing. With some grease and light encouragement they both fit without bending the tab. Is that normal?
I get "the why" on the washers but the two stacked make it so I can barely see a thread poking thru on at the bottom of the nut chamfer. I know I have full thread but I don't like the lack of extra thread coming thru at full torque. It's not proper. Minimum comfort level for me is usually 2 threads showing, .118" / 3mm.
I feel like my options are get a longer 10.9 bolt or a slightly thinner washer. Since I did have to pull a Happy Gilmore and give it a tap, tap, tappa-roo to squeeze it in there.
I'll probably try the latter first. Thoughts and experience appreciated as always.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks like your stack of washers are squeezing the bushing. You aren't supposed to squeeze the poly bushings between the frame tabs, they are supposed to pull in and capture only the steel center sleeve.

Jeff

[M22_COBRA]

Agree Jeff, that one may be on the tight side. Thanks. But If I go with one washer I will definitely put a bend on the tab to close the gap. Here is a closer / better photo for context. I get good movement out of both sides / they aren't smashed, it doesn't spin the bushing in the housing or feel bound, but its not falling to the earth under its own weight either. The bushings were pretty level with the edges of the sleeves which is why I greased them some before install.
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[M22_COBRA]

Good progress this weekend. I overcame the LCA shim by taking a 3/8 thin fender washer and opening it up to 1/2". It was a little smaller than the stock FFR washer on OD but as Jeff said we are after the metal to metal contact on the center of the bushing so I put it between the stock washer and the LCA and the show rolls on.

Next I got started on the UCA's. Not sure if they have started assembling these in the kit at the factory and left it all loose but mine were together. So now I can only put them on the wrong side with the BJ's upside down . Pieces look nice and the PC on the BJ receivers look pretty clean. Not sure when they went away from the gold zinc but with the black PC and my MOOG K882's they literally threaded in by hand.

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Figured I would post my obligatory did I get it right photo before I pop the spindles on. Survey Says????
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Got the Koni's unpacked and started that process, no assembly drama there except while sliding the outer sleeve over the body it was being stubborn and then gave way and I pinched the hell out of my finger. Got pinched between the small snap ring like flange on the body and the threaded sleeve. Beware.
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Once I got the first assembly together I wanted to check the mount gaps. The front lowers were both 1.54", and the small shims were both about 0.412". Subtract the heim and this leaves me with 0.0285" gap. I think I can overcome this with a 0.030" washer between the chassis and the spacer. The upper is another story. The left is 1.97" the right measures 1.92", the stack with two large .6875" spacers and the hiem gives me a 0.09" and 0.15" interference. I figured its time to go get some threaded rod and jam nuts and either widen the left slightly, the right a bunch, and feather it in with some grinding on the spacers.

I did read somewhere that people were stacking these spacers to get more offset to the UCA for high caster.?? Were they moving the shock rearward? Interested to hear the groups thoughts and previous exp. I'm a manual rack with no intent on PS or auto cross.

Spent the rest of the weekend laying some paint for anti rust purposes. The half shafts look like FFR has applied some sort of black oxide to the center shaft and leaser etched the PN on it. But I have also heard these will rust up if left alone. So since I was painting my front calipers to match the rears I hit the CV's also with some VHT. I also unpacked the front bearings and got those also. MI salt sux, even though we have had multiple opportunities for it to wash out and be gone... That crap is still over in the corner doing pushups waiting to wreck your car. So I paint all the things. Used the box, drilled the stud holes and used a hole saw to drop the top in vs masking everything. Worked well.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

Figured I would post my obligatory did I get it right photo before I pop the spindles on. Survey Says????

Survey says...hard to tell since you didn't attach a photo

Did you check/set the rebound adjustment while assembling the shocks?

If you are going manual steering you will not be going into the higher caster range so there is no need to alter the spacers.

Jeff

[M22_COBRA]

Survey says...hard to tell since you didn't attach a photo

Did you check/set the rebound adjustment while assembling the shocks?

If you are going manual steering you will not be going into the higher caster range so there is no need to alter the spacers.

Jeff

Patience lol

I'm typing on the PC, posting, and then adding the photos via phone right after with an edit. Its easier to manage photos, just not instant.
Rebound adjustment? I'll have to look into that one I wasnt aware I had to do that. Good catch.

[M22_COBRA]

Posting this here for myself... Per Jeff
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-adjust-Koni-s

"Here is the process:

With the shock off of the car and spring removed pry the black cap off of the shock body (it has two pins that press into the body). With the cap removed you will see a little metal button about 1/4" diameter with a rounded top. Push this down while twisting the shaft of the shock (you may have to give the shaft a bit of a wiggle while pushing the button to get it to fully depress). As you twist the shaft while holding the button down you should feel it click into 4 detents. Turning the shaft fully counterclockwise is the softest rebound setting and fully clockwise is the firmest rebound. With the factory FFR springs I recommend going to the softest setting in front and one click up from softest with a 3 or 4 link rear (full soft in back is a little "bouncy" in my opinion). After you have them set to the detent desired release the button (it should pop back up, if not give the shaft a little back and forth until it does). Push the plastic cap back into place, reinstall the spring and you're done."

My kit is IRS & shipped with 500 fronts and 300 rears - Is the recommendation for rebound clicks still full soft front / +1 up from soft rear?

[M22_COBRA]

Short update:
I got the shocks dialed in to full soft front / +1 rear per the suggestion and procedure above. (Thanks Jeff) Got all my arms fitment dialed in with a diy spreader and shims. Turns out I didn't need to grind much after the spread. Tabs are nice and straight, travel is smooth. Got the front pieced together and realized my 35mm isn't gonna cut it for the hub nut. Seems to be 36mm or some say 1-3/8" Tomorrows problem. When I make a run into town I'll get the right size socket and probably a crows foot for torquing the UBJ. Next I'll be sanding the caliper some as I crayzed the paint when applying the clear when I got too heavy handed with it. Dummy. Easy fix just frustrating as I should have known better. Its just gonna delay completing the fronts.

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[fauxbra5.0]

Maybe it has performance anxiety on it's big day? ��

Got the inventory done. Only thing on the MIK was some weatherstripping. I'll call that a win. Plan to hit it hard over the "Merica' extravaganza of freedom" this weekend. Just got to get a couple extra hands to come over and help remove the body.

[M22_COBRA]

Faux

[M22_COBRA]

Small wins this weekend. Got the front suspension together and I have moved onto the rear. Which means driving in the studs to the rear hubs first. I did the washer and stud method but the nut(s) were too timed out to continue safely and I didn't buy enough of them. Doh! Oh well back to the hardware store. I got one hub close to done but I'm not gonna strip the threads out to get there. I'll just have to wait.

Got the rear arms assembled and bushings installed. I've been eyeballing EdwardB's hoist install closely as I may have to take the same route. I plan on having Dad up withing a week to be there for rear gear install but I'll still need some "muscle" as I don't need anybody hurt. If I can use the hoist method with an extra set of hands I think I got enough horsepower myself to get it the rest of the way. Stay tuned.

I've been eyeballing sheet metal stuff at the moment. I know everyone recommends the drop trunk, I'd really like to have one ( especially Frank's, his latest video did it for me but I also want his turn signal switch lol ), but I still have some major parts to purchase and I'm on the fence if its the right for me. I got time. I also took some time and did some finish work on the F panels, I still have to add the Rivnuts. My plan is that the panels that show will be polished and clear coated. We used to do this on the rounded Speedway car crush panels and I always liked the look so it was a small item that I wanted for personalization. PC is likely stronger but (shrug). These parts still need some love though. Anything laying flat underbody / floor pan will likely be blacked out but that's tomorrows problem.
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[M22_COBRA]

Went from Hero to hobo and back to hero again inside 6 hours yesterday. I attempted the one man IRS gear install. After heavy consulting with EdwardB's post I made the attempt with watchet straps and my hoist. Folks.... people ain't lying when they say the IRS gear is tight! I got it nose up watchet at a time and eased it up by the boom.
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Once in position I gave it the right shove and posted the front bolt. This may have been a mistake as the rears are threaded but it was either that or get pummeled by the gear. Then once the front was in I did the RR but the LR was not going to go. It was so out of sorts I just couldn't get it to line up. I had the same thing happen as Edward when I decided to drive the LF in with the damn bushing pin poking out. Had to get creative and use a c clamp on the edge of the sleeve and the back of the chassis and tap the heavily lubed fastener all the way in. That one took almost 45 mins and in the end I still feel I got lucky.
Then came the LR... that thing was left and down from where it needed to be by about 1/16" in both directions which was odd as the other 3 bolts were in. My first thought after conceding defeat and going in for dinner was I will let the bushings settle and make another attempt tomorrow. My second thought was "man if these energy bushings could have a little less energy that would be great to push them around to line up". Then it hit me... "ENERGY, you dummy!"

Story time:
In 2015 when I worked in NASCAR the Gen 6 car was a reskinned COT POS and it only got faster as we did odd things to it. One of those was with the rear ends. Anybody that googles Sam Hornish Charlotte car crab walking will know what I'm talking about. Cars would be offset to make side force and thus more corner speed. They took that away. What we figured out was as you went thru inspection they mandated the cars be set at a specific height and rode on inspection blocks and the body straight. Once inspection was over you got under the car jacked it up and removed the blocks. We induced energy to our truck arm bushings with a watchet strap to make them flex and after inspection we would undo the strap. Why cant I do the same thing now?!?

So after dinner I went back to the Octagon and put a strap around the outside ear of the IRS gear and looped it over the RR main rail (and only the main rail ) and started click at a time. It worked perfect to get that last little encouragement to get it to line up. Hope this helps someone in the future struggling with that last fastener.

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[M22_COBRA]

This made me chuckle... "Life with non car people"
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[M22_COBRA]

I'll get to posting the weekend update shortly but I had to tell ya'll about the cool opportunity I had this morning. A friend of mind that is part of Lightbridge Academy who develops the programming for children in 1st to pre kinder care and broadcasts the programming to 150 classrooms, reached out to me. She wanted somebody in racing, or building a car, or somebody that works on cars for a living to come on as a guest speaker, talk about their car, and read a new children's book ("If I Built A Car") about this little boy who uses his imagination to build his dream car. I fit all three and got a great opportunity to talk about what I was building, what do for a living, and how the boy in the book is not all that different from all of us building our cars. I explained that we get to decide the color, the engine, and all the cool things that we want in our builds, ect. They asked what the best part was about building my car, and I said the satisfaction you get from figuring out a problem using your imagination and creativity. Just a really cool opportunity to use my FFR Cobra to possibly inspire the next gen to build theirs.
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[M22_COBRA]

Weekend progress went well. I got the studs on the rear hubs run in all the way after a trip to hardware. The multi waster and 1/4-20 standard hex nut method worked well. Just make sure you use asm lube and swap out the nuts every other stud and don't go HAM with the impact or you will need more washers and nuts than required. The rear arms went in without too much hassle. BUT the LR upper, I swear that one wasn't going to fit. It was square to the front mount but off at an angle I didn't think was possible to work with. I contemplated a call to FFR because wow, she's off!
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Since I'm no quitter I gave it a try by attaching the front and using the spreader, cherry picker and a strap again to lightly encourage it to work the bushing. Ill be... it fit! I was shocked. I don't see any binding or rubber to chassis at the bushing so I think we are good to go. Only concern I have is the front LCA bolts don't show more than a thread. I can get my fingernail on it all around so I know its there. Anyone else find these are a bit short?
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Next up will be reassemble the rear knuckles and hubs.

[F500guy]

Nice opportunity for the kids, sounds fun!

[M22_COBRA]

IRS is complete except I need a 5/16 Allen to torque the rear bar at the chassis. No real drama. Just make sure if you are doing a rear bar to do it as you are putting on your rear arms! I didn't realize that it used a new doubler plate and a longer bolt off the front LCA and tow link. Overall I'm pleased with the work and how it turned out. I really am glad I went with the black for the calipers, the black looks sharp.

I did get the rear e-brake cables out and ive been trying to see how I want to route them as I have the E-stopp in hand. I've seen many of the options others have done in the past via other threads. Im considering the LR as the likely leader for position. But I got time to think on it.

Next up is the front rack and front sway bar install. I got the front footbox panel siliconed in and was sure to not bond it at the lower inner leg per the instructions. I'll have dad up this weekend and know that these two items plus the steering shaft should be enough for us to cover in half a Saturday morning. I was happy to see that I did not have to push out bushings on my rack. Not sure if that is an update or the manual racks never had them installed. It likely the latter. I went thru the bar and rack, paired the hardware, and checked for any got-ya's before I try to do this with a helper. Seems straight forward. Wish me luck.
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[M22_COBRA]

I'm installing the Wilwood pedal box and the front foot box panel. I have the complete kit, the three master cylinders, and plan on eventually getting the Forte complete external hydraulic clutch with the external slave setup.

The question is, do I have the proper front foot box panel installed. This is the one the car shipped with and but there is another in the loose sheet metal box. Thanks in advance.
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[Jeff Kleiner]

I'm installing the Wilwood pedal box and the front foot box panel. I have the complete kit, the three master cylinders, and plan on eventually getting the Forte complete external hydraulic clutch with the external slave setup.

The question is, do I have the proper front foot box panel installed. This is the one the car shipped with and but there is another in the loose sheet metal box. Thanks in advance.
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Yes, that is the correct panel for the Wilwood box.

Jeff

[M22_COBRA]

Thanks Jeff!

[Mike.Bray]

Check with Forte on the clutch master cylinder as the 3/4" bore supplied by Factory Five is probably wrong and will need to be replaced. I think Frote's system uses a 13/16" bore MC as do most hydraulic throwout bearings.

[M22_COBRA]

He's on my list too call tomorrow. I'm reading up on older posts but it sounds like I need the 7/8 mc to go with the 7/8 slave. Old posts but likely still very valid. I'm sure Mike kept tuning and it's likely he's at 13/16 as the current release like you said.

[M22_COBRA]

By chance does anyone have a parts list that has successfully run the FFR 3/4 MC to a external slave? I'd like to consider all options that might be available. Even If I did get a 3/4 slave does it have enough drive to disengage after the clutch wears?

[Mike.Bray]

On Forte's kit he specifically says a 3/4" master cylinder will not work.

https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ic-clutch-kit/

[M22_COBRA]

Yeah I saw that. I understand why. Just wondering if anyone has used the 3/4 with a different setup or are they not using an external slave if they are.

[M22_COBRA]

Hung up on a new problem, the clutch quadrant stop switch. I can't find it? It's this one here in the manual. Again running hydraulic clutch so I know I won't use the plates for the cable
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I've turned the garage and every box upside down. I looked through the pack list and I can't find it anywhere on the list? I did get two of the brake switches that show mounting underneath the Wilwood pedal box. Is this top switch obsolete now? Does it come with the engine or the PCM which I do not have yet? I do have the two brackets that hold it.
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Upon Further review: it looks like this comes in the Coyote Ford performance pack??

[M22_COBRA]

Since my last post I've made good progress. I've completed the install of the steering rack. And got the pedal box all installed. Unfortunately, upon further review, I see that the raw edge of the stainless bracket on the engine side rubs the boot of the front master cylinder. I used my Amazon chamfer router and it cleared it like a champ and put a really nice chamfered edge on the part.
It took a few passes but the picture below was the second pass. The stainless gets a little gummy if you get it too hot. Two more smaller passes and it cleaned up 100%. Money well spent.

Been doing a little bit of research on what I want to do for hydraulic setup. I think I'm just going to do my own. I have access to 13/16 master and I'll just pair it with a 7/8 slave, but that's tomorrow's problem.

Today's problem was getting through the steering shaft assembly. Which turned out to not really be a problem at all. I made sure on the firewall bearing that the nasty raw edge that was on there was removed and packed that with some good lithium grease. Took Frank / ie427 garages advice on assembling that shaft and making sure everything was completely loose before you decide to lock it down. 100% spot on. Went together great and got to eyeball where the steering wheel and seat would likely live. Also got to check my fit to the pedals with those heights. I'm really happy with how everything turned out today.

Also got some great shots from last weekend when I had Dad come up and help with the rack install. It's what it's all about in the end, right? PAXTON the shop dog approves. 🐾
IMG_20240810_084209_488.jpgPXL_20240810_193240236.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20240809_234454173.PORTRAIT.jpgIMG_20240810_084209_540.jpgPXL_20240810_201246355.PORTRAIT~3.jpg