Coupe-R build in Seattle

[Jphoenix]

OK, completion date is getting close, 7/20, so I'm going to start my build thread with the list of stuff. I plan to race the Coupe-R in both SOVREN (vintage racing) and ICSCC, aka "Conference" which is a consortium of five racing clubs in the Pacific Northwest. I'll be road racing - typically 30 minute races at the 5 tracks up here, Pacific Raceways, The Ridge, Portland International, Spokane County (now Qlispe Raceway) and Mission up in B.C. I don't autocross or track day. I currently race a Formula Ford - which I shall continue as it keeps me very honest and there is a lot of competition in the FF class up here.

I do not plan to drive on the street, so it will be race-height, dry-sumped, big brakes and as light as possible. The engine and trans is coming from Mike Forte as soon as end of this month.

Engine is a Ford Performance 363 with a TKX.
Probably AVIAID or Peterson dry sump parts, GT1 folks up here lean towards AVIAD, but they all work. Vipers use a very nice Dailey dry sump pan - but pricey!
FuelSafe 15 gallon cell.
Firebottle, Lifeline or similar fire system.
Accusump for pre-oiling.
Some kinda race wheels with 295 up front and 315/30r18's in back. Likely Hoosier R7's, but some of the guys like the Michelins and some like Avons (that are scarce now that AVON is converting to NOVA and out of production temporarily).
FFR doesn't have the 900/700 lb. spring combo they discuss on their race setup page, so I'll start with whatever it comes with, do corner weights and see how it sits. There are a couple of really smart GT1 setup guys here that can help me get set up. All my experience is with Formula Mazda and Formula Ford, so this is a new adventure with regard to setup. It's more than double the weight of the Formula Ford, so going through the corners will be interesting at first.

AIM data logging dash with all the inputs from the engine and chassis going into it. Smarty Cam input to the data logger.
Heater for defrost on those cool, rainy spring days - but no AC, I will run a cool shirt and helmet blower, it gets hot in Portland in August.
IRS, QA1 DD401 shocks, Aero6 Wilwoods, I like a hard, modulating brake pedal and have lots of old master cylinders to try and find the right feel and balance.
Gas-N headers - and I'll fabricate my own side pipes to meet sound limits. I've ordered all the aero bits from FFR and will fabricate a diffuser for it as well. Still trying to decide on which wing, rules limit width to 72", but that's not a problem.

SCCA rules have the FF Coupe-R listed as GTX with a minimum weight of 2600 - that seems kind of low for the engine size - especially since the 363 does not require a restrictor plate (366 and up - so got in just under the wire), there's a Porsche GT3 running here with a min. weight of 3200, same with the local Vipers, 3200 lbs, so maybe I have a chance I would like to get the car's empty weight down to 2400 so I can get close to the 2600 lb. min. weight, that may be a challenge, but I'll leave off anything cosmetic or unnecessary for racing.

I'll run in GTX/SPO class in Conference and in the Big Bore class in SOVREN. There's another Coupe racing in SOVREN, but I haven't seen him out yet this year.

So, that's it for now, Stewart might take a couple of weeks or so to get it here, so likely August before I start work on it. Also Stewart is bring my wife a 289 USRRC kit at the same time because she wants to build her own toy. She wants it to be as close as possible to an original, with a 302 that looks a lot like a 289, FIA pin drive wheels, rear exhaust etc. I'm glad she can weld!

[Jphoenix]

Got the body off and started on the front steering, suspension and brakes.

[Sdonnel]

Nice plan. Does your wife have a sister? Asking for a friend.

[q4stix]

Welcome to the mix! I'm up in Marysville.
Those are some big calipers for sure; are they the Cadillac ones many are using in conversions these days?

-Matt

[Jphoenix]

"Nice plan. Does your wife have a sister? Asking for a friend."

LOL - no, but she does have a sister-in-law (my sister) who owns a body shop in Missoula where we will get the paint done at the special special sibling rate, we do the filling, sanding, blocking and she sprays, then we get to cut and polish.

[Jphoenix]

Welcome to the mix! I'm up in Marysville.
Those are some big calipers for sure; are they the Cadillac ones many are using in conversions these days?

-Matt

They're the Aero 6 race brakes, bolt right up to the FFR spindles - with the usual clearance grinding well documented in this forum. The 18" Halibrands clear them just barely, but well enough.

https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Br...emno=140-16859

Rears are the typical Aero4 with parking brake, but might not use the parking brake, trying to keep the car as light as possible.

[Jphoenix]

Front brakes done, clearances adjusted, everything torqued except the camber adjusters. Suspension done except the Moog tie-rod ends recommended by EdwardB - just POR'd them and they're drying. I'm also using the Howe UBJ's he recommended, they are nice parts.

On to the rear end now. My IRS diff came painted already, so just have to modify the spindles and bolt it all up.

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[Jphoenix]

Engine arrived - Ford Performance 363 with TKX from Mike Forte. Just need some headers from Gas'N.

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[Jphoenix]

Modified the IRS spindles and painted them, gathered up all the IRS parts and assemble the LCA's. Punched out the metric studs in the hubs and installed the 1/2-20 studs. Ready for the pumpkin installation.

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[Jphoenix]

Renee and I spent 3 hours coaxing the diff into place, bit of a struggle but we got it in. Then control arms, axles, spindle assemblies and brakes.

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[Rsnake]

Hello Jim,
I see you are using the supplied CV boots. Since you plan on some serious driving I would replace those as they will fail and make a mess. We have had multiple fail among our group of Type 65 owners and we push the cars hard to speeds of 150+
as I think you will be doing. Easier to do it now as the mess is not fun. We also switched out to redline cv grease as it has a high drop point. I will let you know how the new boots and grease hold up after the Silver State Classic as I will be at 160+ for almost 90 miles.

[Jphoenix]

Thanks, I read the posts about the boots failing (saw your photos - ugly mess). Which boots did you buy? I run redline grease in my Formula Ford CV’s, so have plenty of the red goo.

[Jphoenix]

Another question - are you using the QA1 DD401 shocks? I want to replace the FFR single adjustable shock with DA’s.

[Rsnake]

Jim,

I went with the Ford Motorcraft boots for a modern mustang and drilled a small hole in them to vent out pressure. I will report the success or failure in a few weeks. The original FF ones are neoprene and really flexible. The motorcraft units are a harder plastic and I cannot image them expanding and getting shredded on the suspension.
I am using the QA1 DD401 dampers and really like them.

[Jphoenix]

Jim,

I went with the Ford Motorcraft boots for a modern mustang and drilled a small hole in them to vent out pressure. I will report the success or failure in a few weeks. The original FF ones are neoprene and really flexible. The motorcraft units are a harder plastic and I cannot image them expanding and getting shredded on the suspension.
I am using the QA1 DD401 dampers and really like them.

Thanks, I'll go with the DD401's. Let me know how it goes with the boots during the Silver State run, sounds like a great time! Enjoyed the videos from last year.

[Jphoenix]

Got the wheel spacers last night from Summit, 1.25" all around, primarily to clear the front brakes, but also in back as I plan to run a 335 width tire, so this will be a starting point. Halibrands fit fine, plenty of clearance. Now working on fitting the fuel cell, glad I went with the 15 gallon cell, the 22 gallon may not have fit. I may raise it up a few more inches after I check the aft body location. This fuel cell has a 4-way check valve surge box, foam and in-tank pump.

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[Jphoenix]

Positioned the fuel cell in a good location, plenty of clearance all around. I fabricated a couple of angles to mount the tank using 1/4" bolts, welded mounting tabs on to the support angles to give it plenty of strength.

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[Jphoenix]

Fuel cell is in for the last time. Finished up the steering and foot pedal box after riveting the aluminum pieces in that area. Also finished up the e-brake installation - cables were about .75" too short, the Wildwood extender brackets were not included in my kit. Also put the Kirkey race seat in place temporarily to check the pedal and steering wheel locations - I'm surprised at how much room there is in this car - compared to my Formula ford!IMG_8683.jpegIMG_8685.jpgIMG_8679.jpgIMG_8672.jpeg

[Jphoenix]

The small square tube that runs across the cockpit, that supports the dash seems too far aft for me. I'm thinking about relocations it farther forward and lower as I would like the steering wheel to be 2 or 3" farther forward. I plan to fabricate a custom dash anyhow, anyone see any reason not to move it?

[Jphoenix]

On the ground, mounted the seat and finished brake plumbing. Going to put some cockpit tin in and run the wiring harness. Waiting on some engine parts from Forte, if I get those soon I can put the engine/trans in.

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[Jphoenix]

The Coupe build manual directs us to cut off a big chunk of the IRS spindle - and I did so, but was wondering why this was necessary. Now I know - the e-brake cable on the Wilwoods run down from the cable ferrule right where the piece I cut off would be. I mean I guess this is why we cut this off - I haven't found any text to support this, but can think of no other reason, except maybe to lighten the spindle. In any case, the instruction manual says cut it off between the two drilled holes, down to the boss shown in the manual, so I did that but now I see others have cut it along a line inboard of the second hole. Not sure if it makes a big difference as the tear-out on that part is likely pretty high. Guess I'll find out.

Continued with tidying up fuel and brake lines and wiring to the fuel tank so I could install clamps for the fuel line, wiring and brake lines through the transmission tunnel. Working on a seat back mounting bracket to the transverse bar behind the seat. Still waiting on engine parts from Forte before I can install the engine/trans. Curious to see where the shifter ends up. Going to modify the dash arrangement quite a bit to accommodate a logger dash.

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[Jphoenix]

I installed the seat in the correct location, then fabricated a bracket to attach the seat back to the cage and welded it in. White POR on the bare metal, and also sanded the powder coat off where it was flaking off due to poor prep prior to powder coating and applied white POR to this areas.

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[Jphoenix]

Drilled about a million holes today fitting tins to the frame. Going to make an access panel for the fuel cell.

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[Jphoenix]

I dropped the engine/trans in this morning so I could finish the fuel line plumbing, some wiring and determine where the shifter ends up. I need to order a front shift kit. Still waiting on engine accessories from Forte and a dry sump, so the engine will come back out.

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In the meantime, I'll bring the Cobra in and start on it - the shortened axle for the pin drives arrived from Moser, just need the shorter front LCA's, expected Thursday from FFR.

[Jphoenix]

Started making fuel lines to go from the bulkhead fitting on the firewall through the Trick Flow inline filter, the regulator and then to the carb - waiting for another 90 degree fitting to finish that. Driveshaft is a perfect fit. Headers coming from GAS'N sometime next month.

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[Jphoenix]

Still waiting for clutch kit, power steering pump and water pump from Forte, so in the meantime I continue to work on aluminum, radiator installation, accelerator pedal and steering wheel quick disconnect. Got the shifter front relocation kit from SST through Summit (use LABORDAY code for money off) That steering wheel is from my Formula Ford, I'll get an 11.5" wheel for the Coupe. Put the body on so I can start to arrange the dash wiring, MSD box location, heater box and other instrumentation. Shocks relocated to the upper holes, ride height is now about 3" front and a bit more in the rear.

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[Jphoenix]

I'm deviating quite a bit from the normal Coupe dash layout. The tach will be centered in the steering wheel, all other gauges will be in the canted panel to the right along with warning lights for water pressure, oil pressure and alternator. A row of 9 switches for the typical things and the main battery cutoff along with the brake bias knob will be in the center panel as well. Fire handle will be left of the steering wheel, accessible from the window. A second battery cutoff switch will be on the right side of the car somewhere.

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Still waiting for engine parts from Forte, but the shortened LCA's have arrived from FFR for the Cobra, so progress continues.

[JimStone]

That dash certainly is different. Will be interesting to see it come together.

You're definitely making quick work of all this. You'll have this on the race track in no time.

[Jphoenix]

That dash certainly is different. Will be interesting to see it come together.

You're definitely making quick work of all this. You'll have this on the race track in no time.

Yes, it's just going to be gauges and switches, no creature comforts except for a cool suit cooler and blower in the right seat. I plan to put the battery in the right footwell, defroster blower in the upper footwell. Once the wiring/plumbing is done, the engine has to come back out for the power steering pump/dry sump rework that requires a water pump change (reverse rotation) and the TKX mod to forward shift position.

[Jphoenix]

Finalizing the position of the dash structure and riveting the side supports in as well as an additional support channel along the bottom of the dash. Routing wiring, etc. Put some gauges and switches in to check clearance and accessibility. New sealed switches coming from Summit on Friday along with a bunch of LED indicator lights, a water pressure sender and an oil temp gauge. I'm surprised the Coupe-R kit does not include an oil temp gauge.

The center canted portion will be fastened with screws into countersunk rivnuts for easy removal and access to wiring. Data logger goes to the right of the wheel. Waiting for a new 12.5" steering wheel so I can locate the fire handle and starter button, also brake bias control kit coming Friday. so will put that in the center panel. Shift lights are in the data logger display.

Still have to weld in attach brackets for the 6 point harness anti-submarine straps, also have the window net attach brackets to weld in, but getting closer to a point where I can start riveting aluminum in, but I'm going to wait until I get the engine back in.



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[Jphoenix]

Interestingly, I just checked the Coupe-R kit contents on the FFR website:

• Complete set of 7 Autometer brand electronic gauges, with connectors, terminals and installation kit. Includes the following gauges:

• Speedometer
• Tachometer
• Oil Pressure Gauge
• Water Temperature Gauge
• Fuel Level Gauge
• Voltmeter
• Oil Temperature Gauge


So, my memory was correct, but the kit order form does not list the oil temp gauge. I'll send FFR an email asking them to update or clarify their intent.

[Jphoenix]

Working on getting the AVIAID dry sump pump located on the engine. New accessory drive parts arriving soon. Been working on the 289 Cobra while waiting for Coupe-R engine parts.

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[HSS Ben]

Wow!!! Just found this thread! Love your work!! It is REALLY coming together well..!!! Great job!!!

Ben

[Jphoenix]

Still working on the 289 while I wait for Aviaid to build my dry sump kit. Finalizing the layout of the dash and panel on the coupe:

Yellow light under the OP gauge is low oil pressure. Yellow light under water temp is low water pressure - fed by a 2 psi water pressure switch which is the fastest way to discover I have a coolant problem. non-matching oil temp gauge because the Coupe-R complete kit does not include an oil temp gauge. Spare switch will likely be a fresh air blower for those hot August days sitting on pre-grid. I'll have an AIM MXL of some variety in lieu of the tach currently installed.

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[Jphoenix]

Back to work on the Coupe-R, wiring the fuel pump and brake lights. No turn signals because race only.

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[Jphoenix]

Spent the last couple of days re-wiring the electrical system to accommodate all the changes I'm making, such as deleting turn signals, different fuel pump, adding a number of circuits for the water pressure warning light, logger, camera, cool suit, etc. Also adding in the defroster and wipers for those rainy days. Using the FFR fuse panel, but re-purposing the horn relay to the headlights and using a Bosch relay for reliability.

I'm eliminating a lot of wiring and most of the supplied connectors - wiring in new connectors that use the correct number of wires. I still have to arrange the MSD 6AL ignition system wiring scheme, so it will be a few more days to get it all sorted and back in the car.

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[Jphoenix]

Unfortunately, I've discovered the fuse/relay block supplied by FFR (the Ron Francis product) is so sub-standard that it must be replaced. The 3 relays attached to the fuse block do not actually fit the keyways on the block, they are the wrong size and too far apart, but RF screwed the relays onto it anyhow resulting in a skewed assembly that appears to be neither solid, nor a proper method of attaching a part to another part. You can see in one of the photos how they used a sheetmetal screw through the plastic to secure one of the relays, not very impressive.

Then I put power on the system and the fuel pump relay was inoperable. I chased power to the fuseblock wiring connection and no power to the connection coming out of the fuse block and going to the relay. There is power going into that terminal on the fuse block, but nothing coming out of one of the two wires crimped to the output of the terminal. The one wire with no power feeds the fuel pump relay. So, obviously a bad crimping job on the wire coming out of the fuse block. You can see the wires I cut and jumpered with butt connectors to check that the relays actually work, but that's too crude a repair and causes me to question the reliability of the remaining parts in the fuse block.

So strike three, it's out. Ordered a new Blue Sea fuse box with 12 terminations, screw terminal connections and separate relay holders, as well as some more genuine Bosch relays to replace the unknown brand supplied.

Won't delay the wiring program much as I simply need to replace the fuse block and relay, easy job, but gee whiz, it would have disappointing to find no power to the fuel pump after everything was assembled.

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[PNWTim]

Bummer that happened. Ron Francis typically makes pretty good gear so just bad luck I guess.

[Jphoenix]

I hope yours looks better than mine!

[Dave Tabor]

Running a carb - that's cool, so am I!

Dave
Gen III #17
22,500+ miles