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Thread: RT hub and steering shaft assembly seems crazy tight.

  1. #1
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    RT hub and steering shaft assembly seems crazy tight.

    I’m ready to attach my RT hub (and NRG adapter) onto the upper steering shaft. The fitment seems incredibly tight…as in “This thing will never come apart again.” Any advice appreciated.

    Related question: Can the entire hub/upper shaft be pulled out of the car once finished? It’s just set screws and spring washers holding it in, right?

  2. #2
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    I can't speak to the fit of the RT hub, but yes; the upper shaft & wheel can be removed as an assembly. A common mistake folks make is they forget about the 2nd set screw holding the shaft in place.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  3. #3
    Senior Member JMD's Avatar
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    I received the advice of fitting it all together but leave out the spring washers until you are ready for final assembly. Of course I heard that after already installing the shaft with the spring washers... I think removing the upper shaft even with the spring washers is easier than trying to separate the steering wheel from the hub once torqued down.
    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...809#post556809

    MKIV received 5/15/24

    Blueprint 302 tuned by Mike Forte, TKX midshift, IRS, PS, Wilwoods

  4. #4
    JohnK's Avatar
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    If you’re talking about fitting the FFR-supplied hub that you sent to Russ to machine onto the upper shaft, yes that can be very tight. You want it to be a pretty tight fit with no slop but not ridiculously tight. I used a little fine grit sandpaper to debur the edges and dress the end of the upper shaft where it fits into the hub and it went together a lot better after that. As others said, you can remove the hub and upper shaft as a unit. Just don’t put the wavy washers in place until you’re putting it together for the final time.
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

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    Thanks the replies, everyone

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Just to make sure -- the inner and outer steering shafts should go together tight enough to not have slop. But should go together without major effort including hammering (or whatever) them together as some have done and regretted it. Make sure they're clean, no burrs, even a little polishing or emory cloth if needed. The wavy Belleville washers should take up any remaining slack. Keep in mind, those two pieces are supposed to collapse in case of an accident. Some question about how effective that would be. But also an ongoing maintenance issue if forced together. The hub, on the other hand, is a force fit. Designed that way. The retaining bolt is normally required to seat it all the way down. Also common for a gear or wheel puller to get it back off. Totally normal and what you want for that piece. Neither the RT turn signal assembly or the added NRG quick release should affect the fit of either the steering shaft or hub.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

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  8. #7
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    Yep, used the Allen bolt to draw the upper shaft to the hub. Worked great and I probably didn’t even need to have the shaft at 6 degrees Fahrenheit!

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