Doc, the component that I recommended the plug for may be required in B.C. It is where I am. We get inspections every two years and won’t pass without it.
Check with someone local.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Noted thanks Jim
Do you guys have a preferred source for copper-nickel brake line and know how much line it’ll take to re-plumb the car?
I get pre-made/pre-flared sticks of various lengths from a local auto parts store (NAPA). I'm going to assume that you could do the same from Canadian parts retailers. Lengths will depend on routing. Join them as necessary with tees and couplers.
Jeff can you confirm that the Raybestos MC390217 will or will not work in this conversion?
I see a post from 2019 from you (at least I think its you) that indicates it won't unless I am misunderstanding.
I couldn't attach a pic so here is the link to the convo
I don't know what part of that old conversation you're referring to that would make you believe that the Raybestos MC390217 wouldn't work. It's a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra master cylinder with 15/16" bore...just like I have mentioned 3 times in earlier replies to this thread.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 09-04-2024 at 10:55 AM.
I don't know what part of that old conversation you're referring to that would make you believe that the Raybestos MC390217 wouldn't work. It's a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra master cylinder with 15/16" bore...just like I have mentioned 3 times in earlier replies to this thread.
Thanks for everyone’s help here helping me through the weeds, so to speak.
Ordered the kit from FFR this morning.
My 16yr old daughter and I will tackle this, this winter.
☺️
Maybe EdwardB chimes in at some point. But. When I had a rear brake issue, he pointed me to an EBay seller that provides Mustang GT takeoffs. They’re cost effective, bolt right on, and require zero mods.
MKIV Complete Kit # 207585
Ordered 8/19/2023. Completion date 11/11/23. Delivery date 11/27/23
Maybe EdwardB chimes in at some point. But. When I had a rear brake issue, he pointed me to an EBay seller that provides Mustang GT takeoffs. They’re cost effective, bolt right on, and require zero mods.
Ya really curious to know if priming and Powdercoat on the brackets will cause any issue or what other guys have done in the past when converting
I would drive fit all the parts before deciding on powder coating anything.
You have a lot of stuff to figure out before you can start assembly. I would have to check my Mustang manual but, I believe the axles have to come out to get the drum brake backing plate off. You are also converting to coil overs and need to consider how to mount the caliper brackets to avoid interference issues.
Read the assembly manual and get yourself a repair manual for the fox body and sn95 Mustang.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
I would drive fit all the parts before deciding on powder coating anything.
You have a lot of stuff to figure out before you can start assembly. I would have to check my Mustang manual but, I believe the axles have to come out to get the drum brake backing plate off. You are also converting to coil overs and need to consider how to mount the caliper brackets to avoid interference issues.
Read the assembly manual and get yourself a repair manual for the fox body and sn95 Mustang.
Norm
Ya I missed the fact that’s the axles have to come out. All the more reason to use my buddies hoist
As for the conversion to coil-overs, I’m already on Koni’s on all four corners.
Can’t tell from the picture you posted. What size of wheels are on the car?
15 inch wheels limit the brakes that you can use,
Norm
Mine are 17”
I confirmed with FFR my wheel size and rear end width before purchasing their kit.
I went this route because some guys that seem knowledgeable here said it’s the easiest kit to install.
born in San Jose, CA and lived mostly in Santa Cruz. Just married again in '22 and in Junction City.
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Jeff: ...just to jump in on this thread -- I'm curious about the single master cylinder you recommend be used with the 11.65" rear brakes.
I have a new Mk 4 complete kit with IRS and the 11.65 rears, but FFR provides two brake masters and balance bar, etc.
I assume your 15/16" bore MC would apply to me, also, but how does the need to balance front/rear disappear? (If I'm reading you correctly)
(I was going to use a hand-held IR pyrometer to read front/rear disc temp after several medium effort stops using the temp metric as a balance indicator -- when I ever get to that stage.)
I am pretty sure that the calipers are the same for 10.5 and the 11.65 brakes. Larger rotors and longer adapter brackets are the difference. The need to balance front to rear does not disappear. The FFR needs more rear brake than the Mustang parts will provide. If one doesn't have the balance adjustable dual MCs one way to help out is run more aggressive pads in the rear. Grubester, don't bother w/ temps. The only result that matters is whether front or rear wheels lock first so brake hard enough to find out. BTW, that test is best done at 35-40mph on a level road or parking lot.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I will add “wet” to Craig’s list of test conditions above. In dry conditions the brakes may be balanced well enough to stop straight ahead but, with our weight distribution and staggered tire width, in wet conditions the back end can pass you faster than you can say WTF. (The F stands for Fudge��)
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Jeff: ...just to jump in on this thread -- I'm curious about the single master cylinder you recommend be used with the 11.65" rear brakes.
I have a new Mk 4 complete kit with IRS and the 11.65 rears, but FFR provides two brake masters and balance bar, etc.
I assume your 15/16" bore MC would apply to me, also, but how does the need to balance front/rear disappear?
It doesn't. The reference to the 15/16" bore master cylinder is for a single, dual chamber master like the OP has on his car, not the dual master/balance bar setup.
Hey guys just wanted to take a second and say thanks again for all your help.
Very much appreciate all of you weighing in with past experiences and skills.
Hey guys
So the only 15/16” MC I can find is from Mark at Breeze however this leaves the reservoir on top up under the fender. That’s what I have now and makes it a PITA to service.
I called Willwood and they only offer a 1” MC kit with remote reservoirs. (Pt# 261-14251-p or -bk)
They say this will work.
My question is what’s the impact to using the 1” vs the 15/16” cause Willwood said “it should work”.
Once again, the 15/16” master is a dual chamber unit for a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra. Wilwood sand Tiltons are single chamber and won’t work with your pedal box. I’ve purchased this MC from NAPA and found it available to order from other parts stores such as Autozone, O’Reilly, Advance, etc.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Kleiner; 10-04-2024 at 03:05 PM.
Here is a link to Rockauto for a 15/16 bore dual chamber. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=1836&jsn=565
Another link for the nipples to convert the master cylinder for remote reservoirs http://www.lsbilletworks.com/
I made my own adapters to convert the stock reservoir into a remote one and connect to the master cylinder. Allows for the required low brake fluid warning system where I live.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Once again, the 15/16” master is a dual chamber unit for a 1994/1995 Mustang Cobra. Wilwood sand Tiltons are single chamber and won’t work with your pedal box. I’ve purchased this MC from NAPA and found it available to order from other parts stores such as Autozone, O’Reilly, Advance, etc.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff
As I mentioned I do have a Breeze OEM MC in 15/16” however this leaves the reservoir up under the fender. Nearly impossible to service. I’m looking for a remote reservoir alternative.
Doc, you buy the master cylinder Jeff recommended, pull off the attached reservoir, install the fittings to convert the master for remote reservoir use. Use the appropriate tubing for brake fluid to connect the master cylinder to the reservoirs of your choice.
The fittings are available from multiple sources. Summit Racing or http://www.lsbilletworks.com/. Click the link. On the left hand side is a selection for FFR. Click master cylinder convert nipples. Order 2.
HTH
Norm
Last edited by Norm B; 10-05-2024 at 08:35 PM.
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
Doc, you buy the master cylinder Jeff recommended, pull off the attached reservoir, install the fittings to convert the master for remote reservoir use. Use the appropriate tubing for brake fluid to connect the master cylinder to the reservoirs of your choice.
The fittings are available from multiple sources. Summit Racing or http://www.lsbilletworks.com/. Click the link. On the right hand side is a selection for FFR. Click master cylinder convert nipples. Order 2.
Can anyone recommend how to remove the reservoir from the OEM style MC? It appears to be pressed on?
My reservoir location is tucked way up under the fender. Not a fan. IMG_0080.jpeg
Also any recommendations on remote reservoir setups?
I do like the opaque OE look to be able to see the level without removing the cap.
Doc, my car has the brake system you are trying to build. No proportioning valve is needed. Car brakes on a dime and gives some change. The FFR roadster is really close to 50/50 front/rear weight distribution. The Fox body Mustang was about 60/40. This mod on a Fox body may have required a proportioning valve to prevent the rears from locking first. We do not.
Norm
Are your calipers forward or rearward facing?
It appears there are mixed reviews how and why builders choose to mount the calipers forward or rearward facing?
It appears there are mixed reviews how and why builders choose to mount the calipers forward or rearward facing?
FWIW, I always move them to the front because it allows the parking brake cable to routed in a smoother "U" shaped curve rather than having to make an "S".
Some have reported caliper to coilover interference with the caliper to the rear although I haven't seen it.
Regarding the reservoir; it is simply pushed on with it's nipples engaging the rubber grommets on the master cylinder and can be pried off (its a tight fit). I've done 5 or 6 cars using the vacuum booster and yes it pushed the master cylinder fill cap up under the fender however it can easily be twisted off. I didn't use remote reservoirs on any of them but instead just hit the "easy button" and made this for filling or adding fluid:
FWIW, I always move them to the front because it allows the parking brake cable to routed in a smoother "U" shaped curve rather than having to make an "S".
Some have reported caliper to coilover interference with the caliper to the rear although I haven't seen it.
Regarding the reservoir; it is simply pushed on with it's nipples engaging the rubber grommets on the master cylinder and can be pried off (its a tight fit). I've done 5 or 6 cars using the vacuum booster and yes it pushed the master cylinder fill cap up under the fender however it can easily be twisted off. I didn't use remote reservoirs on any of them but instead just hit the "easy button" and made this for filling or adding fluid:
Jeff
Awesome thanks Jeff
I think I’ll leave it alone and not go the remote route either. I think it’s a cleaner look not seeing reservoirs
Do you happen to know a good source for matching SS braided front brake lines for the ‘87-93 mustang disc?
I’ll be putting the rear disc FFR conversion kit in which came with nice SS flex lines however my front ones are rubber and fittings are corroded. Like to clean that up at the same time while I run new NiCo lines.
Awesome thanks Jeff
I think I’ll leave it alone and not go the remote route either. I think it’s a cleaner look not seeing reservoirs
Do you happen to know a good source for matching SS braided front brake lines for the ‘87-93 mustang disc?
I’ll be putting the rear disc FFR conversion kit in which came with nice SS flex lines however my front ones are rubber and fittings are corroded. Like to clean that up at the same time while I run new NiCo lines.
Mark Reynolds at Breeze can set you up with hoses, banjo bolts, fittings and anything else you might need.
For those of you running the e-cable up and over the frame, did you have to shorten the cables?
I see pulley systems online fabricated to avoid driveshaft loops.
Mine presently runs down and under as the build book shows. I was under the impression the e-brake cables that came in the FFR rear disc conversation was shorter to accommodate the up and over setup however after speaking to FFR today it sounds like that is not the case. They still recommend the cables go down and under.
FWIW, I always move them to the front because it allows the parking brake cable to routed in a smoother "U" shaped curve rather than having to make an "S".
Some have reported caliper to coilover interference with the caliper to the rear although I haven't seen it.
Regarding the reservoir; it is simply pushed on with it's nipples engaging the rubber grommets on the master cylinder and can be pried off (its a tight fit). I've done 5 or 6 cars using the vacuum booster and yes it pushed the master cylinder fill cap up under the fender however it can easily be twisted off. I didn't use remote reservoirs on any of them but instead just hit the "easy button" and made this for filling or adding fluid:
Jeff
Are you able to comment how far the wheel will be pushed outward as a result of the conversion if any?
Doc, are you changing the axles?. If not, any difference in width will be the difference between the drum and rotor axle flange face. Minimal if anything.
Norm
Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more
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Originally Posted by Doc76
