Those exhaust hangers were initially used with shorty headers and J pipes as they were known to sag and stress/crack the J pipe over time.
In the past, with 4 into 4 long tube headers, hangers were not needed. With the addition of the ball joint in the headers, the hangers will help keep the side pipe from sagging over time.
I've made these front hangers for the J-Pipes as well as the ball flange headers. Left unsupported the front of the sidepipe can rotate downward if the ball flange loosens.
Lance
Thanks for the offer for the hooks. I already have a set of nice Stainless Steel ones from Ace. Actually they were eye bolts that I cut off a section of the eye with just enough room to install the rubber hangars, which I picked up at NAPA. Currently waiting on a set of closed stainless turnbuckels I picked out of the Bezos catalog. Got my headers mounted today. Side pipes and collectors will be done next week. So'll I'll be lashing it all up the end of next week.
1ST ENGINE RUN IN THE CAR TOMORROW !!!!! I'll post a report.
Got the master cylinders changed out to Tilton, personal preference and leave it at that. Stayed with 3/4 bore on all three. Tilton has a 3-AN outlet, best fit for me was to use a 3-AN to 1/8 NPT on the outlet, then use the 1/8 NPT to Flare that came with the wilwoods for the brake lines. I had enough give to fit them in. For the clutch, I used a 4-AN banjo bolt that fit right in with the clutch line. Brakes bled and verify the switches for clutch and brake still set correctly. I changed out the supply line from the reservoir with the 5/16 hose provided in the Tilton box.
Onward for more body fitting! of course, I will take another test drive and I want to run thru the alignment again just for fun so I can learn it better with the body off.
Got the bed liner laid in the body, picked the 1 weekend of the last month that we may have rain, so I snuggled it next to the body in the garage. Raptor said it should not get wet for 72 hours...Son is in town for a week and we have Indy Car races to go to next week end, so slow progress will continue. Raptor undercoating applied to Body.JPGtaped ready for raptor 2.JPG
Looks sharp Lance.
Your still a week or so ahead of me. That Raptor looks great. Can't wait to get mine (grey) done. Soon I hope. I've been busy with the local car show since last Thursday. By the way, a Backdraft Cobra won the Best of Show at the Wapato Showdown, over 300 cars at the show! He got my 4 votes as I put 4 cars, (including the MK4) into the show.
I plan to get back to the body sanding in the morning. Give me a shout when you are about to fit your body on the car, I'll pop over to help.
I have been working thru some details before body drops on again. Since I will be shipping the car out for body work and paint, I decided to get it prepped over the winter for licensing before I do that, including installing most items, but trying to not make to much to be redone by the pro...
Finished up trunk courtesy lighting, wired in a switch that I will attach to the hinge to on/off the lights. A basic amazon tilt switch. Rear Curtesy lights.JPG
I sealed up the drivers foot box, that seems like a big milestone for me and a real sign of forward progress. Driver Foot Box Closed up.JPG
Started the carpeting, but ran out of glue so did not get to much done, and found some issues to address with the carpet. I really like the ease of the DAP indoor/outdoor glue, it has been mentioned here many times. Gives a little work time, but still has a good grab after about 10 minutes. Can't seem to get it locally, so ordered out.
Partially done with driver side foot box, but had some issues with the center carpet dash piece being to short, left a 1/2+ gap at the floor inside driver side. I ended up putting 2 more layers of heat insulation on driver side floor to help close that gap and will secure it when I get more glue. I also made a carbon fiber cover plate that I will put over the cutoff switch after carpet is down. Driver footbox partial with dead pedal.JPGCutoff Carbon Fiber Plate.JPGPassenger outside wall.JPG
Was not to satisfied with the carpet for the upper trunk, it was almost 1/2 short width wise and supper large holes around the roll bars. It made the upper trunk wall look a little "jenky". So I ended up making a panel to cover that area and will carpet it as well. I know some do the whole area back there and I was trying to avoid that. I had ordered a second trunk set of carpet so I would have enough to manipulate the drop trunk carpet Not yet glued down but happy with the cutting and planning I did. I also cut a carbon fiber plate for the fuel pump access I screwed up the cut. so it is a little bigger than I wanted. The bottom of the drop trunk will get edge trim and just a sit in place that can be removed. Upper trunk side panel.JPGFuel pump access cover.JPGTrunk Carpeting.JPG
Took another neighbor around the block, got to love that "vroom vroom"
Yo Lance, The carpet looks sharp. Looks like your getting close to getting the body back on. Let me know when your ready, I'll stop by and lend a hand and bring over those windshield jigs.
Allyn
I wrapped up trunk and Cubby carpeting. Looks pretty good, the camera shows weird stuff in the carpet that the eye does not see, it looks pretty good and I am satisfied to have that part done. Trunk Carpert done.JPGTrunk Carpet done 2.JPG
I also tackled the ever present Submarine strap issue. I really like the ones that have that function built in to the 4 strap setup, but did not want to pay $500.00 plus a set at this time. I spent a bit of time reviewing this problem and the various solutions across multiple forums. Then I looked thru the boxes of attachment hardware I have sitting around from previous belts I have bought and came up with a satisfactory solution that I feel is close to design needs. Having the seat slider created a unique parameter to work with, I saw others have just attached them to the seat, but if the car hits the track for a track day, I wanted a proper set up. I will not be to excited to cut up my new seat bottom, but I was able to track down a good pass thru piece, which took a lot of effort to find.
Here is picture of sub strap with the seat fully pushed to the rear, which for the passenger side will be the norm. Sub Strap Full seat rearward.JPG
Here is the picture with the seat 3-4 inches forward, should be the max movement for driving Sub Strap seat forwrad 3 inches.JPG
Here is the anchor point under the car Sub Strap Nut.JPG
And I also decided to use the clip on for the shoulder straps, thought that will make it much easier for removal/re-attachment in the future Rear Harness attachment.JPG
I also dropped off a couple carpet pieces to have some edging installed and some vinyl pads for the floor and gas pedal sew on so I can finish the carpeting hopefully next week, trying to get the body on before hunting season starts in a few weeks.
Finally got the carpet installed, really looking like a "real" car now. I did have a couple pieces that I had wished were a little longer so I could trim them, had to do some messaging and very close fit.
Really curious about the difference between the passenger and driver floor pieces, why cheat the passenger side and do 2 pieces and not get the full wrap around the front frame tube? Kind of cheesy in IMHO. I did put a small piece of carpet along the frame, I know it is not really visible, but if the passenger has flip-flops or no heel shoe, may be more comfortable. I just hope the edge does not peel back, I can see it getting a lot of abuse unless I get the floor mats installed.
Banding the front of the center piece was a nice choice to give a more finished edge in a really visible location. I also banded the floor piece for the drop trunk since it is a removable piece.
I like the vinyl pieces i had sewn into the driver foot box and hopefully save some wear and tear.
Waiting for a leather boot, console cover and brake lever cover from online shop. Turned out well to carpet the center top under the dash and shorten the tunnel cover, I have 4 bolts to hold it in place. Still debating a cup holder, not to late yet....
Moving on to set the body on again, think I am ready having made some adjustments to the front mounting points and added to the frame rails a rubber strip on the front and a couple rubber bumpers up the side to help with leaning on the body.
I installed my sub belt seat pass thru. Started with a plastic 2 piece unit that I trimmed with some leather on the seat side flange. Cut thru the seat, foam and seat heater to get the piece thru. Kind of hated to cut a perfectly good seat, but the leather trim makes it look like it belongs there! Cutting Foam.JPGBelt Insert Part.JPGSub Strap Passthru.JPGSEat Belt pass thru in car.JPG
Time to do an update on my build. Been doing bits and pieces here and there, but not enough time over the last 3 months to do a lot at any one time. Finally accumulated enough points to post an update. I think I am still on track to get it on the road this spring, in gel coat!
I also was internally debating how far to go with the build before I select a final body person, I know I will not be do the final fitting, finishing and painting. Lots of “save it for the expert” if you are unsure flying around. Fit and finish not my strong skill, but I decided it best to lay off the internet some and just get ‘R’ done, if it is not what the expert would do, hopefully they can tweak it as needed. I keep reminding myself I took this on to do it myself, so onward!
Got the final body position set, pretty happy with the final lay out, and it looks good.
Set the hood, did the car center line thing and went ahead and cut the scoop out. I did 1 very minor trim on the frond driver side corner of the hood, but that was all, and there are some big gaps at spots on all 4 sides, so centered and adjusted as best as I can get it. Got the latches mounted as well, kind of weird the passenger side bumper at the latch is big and the driver side small, so I leave the final to the experts, looks even now with the hood closed and it is fully functional and looks good as well. Front View with Scoop.JPGInside scoop mounted.JPGScoop Cut 1.JPGScoop cut 2.JPG
Opened up the roll bar holes and dropped them in. Driver side was out by ½ inch, so had to open a big hole, but it is smaller than the trim ring, so no problem.
Got the trunk set with the latch installed and that was pretty easy, no trimming and only hinge adjustments to get a good fit. Instructions on the latch was a head scratcher for my small brain just eyeballed it and drilled, nice snug fit but no way to get that nut on the back side. I love when the have instructions that are completely out of sequence, "drill from the back...????" Trunk with latch.JPG
Temporarily attached the breeze shroud in the front with 5 rivets so it can be easily removed. Breeze shroud.JPG
Next Up Windshield, doors and side pipes and that seems to be the hardest part left, then fit and finish details.
I found the breeze panel was a challenge to get on and off with the hood hinges in the way. FYI you will want that in before paint or find a way to get your hood off without damaging the paint. I didn't install mine until the car was completely finished.
Car looks great. I respect the can do attitude on the body work.
Last edited by Blitzboy54; 12-13-2024 at 12:58 PM.
So, funny story on my story to obtain some leather bits for the interior. I originally selected redlinegoods, they were great, I was not. When we finalized the set up, I confirmed the measurements and got what I asked, great shjift boot, great parking brake boot, But...tunnel cover was to short "Ah CR$$", not my first or last redo.... I used the factory provided panel, cut short because I carpeted under the dash part of the cover. I ended up going local to get a cover done, they did a great job, 125 + beer money. And, while chatting, the gentleman mentioned that piece looking familiar, I told him it was going in a cobra replica-Low and behold he said "factory 5, I used to do door panels and dashes for smith..." Small world.
I started with the supplied parts, shortened the tunnel cover a bit. Installed the oval cover plate using counter sunk rivets. Then installed 4 riv nuts for the trim ring. Used 2 layers of 1/8 inch closed cell foam from the craft store. First layer went around the oval cover piece, second layer over everything, helped make the oval cover less prominent. Then to break up the flat top, had him sew some stitching in to match the boot cover. Great conversation piece-"WHY IS THE COVER OFFSET FOR THE SHIFTER?" Not obvious when looking from either side, but straight on, it is a statement to the asymmetry of the car...
Car looks great! Nice work. I’m a big fan of the tranny cover
The pass-through piece was a great find. I have some leather scraps around, so should be able to cover it. I’ll add that to my list while waiting for Jeff to call.
Last edited by John Ibele; 12-14-2024 at 11:58 AM.
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is here
Lights installed. The headlight was a head scratch-er and had me spinning circles for a bit. The adjustment ring has 3 tabs, but was only properly drilled for 2. SO, spinning up and trying many things, I realized it was not correct, and drilled the other hole for the 3rd tab in the correct location and it fit like it was supposed to. Driver side light, the rubber piece did not have the proper holes, spinning again, I got the punch out and made it right. Last issue with the head lights is the trim ring, looks great but the retaining screw that comes in from the bottom does not line up with the screw boss, so I will have to drill a new hole. Chased that damn clip about 6 times since it seemed to fly off every time I popped the trim ring off, note to self if I ever do that in an uncontrolled environment...
Also made a cover for the trunk lid access. .020 aluminum panel and some carbon fiber vinyl. Trunk Access cover.JPG
I opened up the front windshield box only to find I had 2 driver side supports and no passenger side. Factory 5 has responded and the proper part is on the way already. I feel that they have been super good to me on customer support, much appreciated these days.
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Originally Posted by egchewy79
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. The bottom of the drop trunk will get edge trim and just a sit in place that can be removed.
