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Thread: Engine & Tranny Mount Change Help

  1. #1
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    Engine & Tranny Mount Change Help

    I need to change my motor mounts to avoid engine flex per recommendations here for several reasons. I’m presently sitting on stock rubbers.

    I have seen many methods on this change process from guys strapping around headers to lifting off the manifold .
    Whats the correct process to lift the engine and tranny without hurting anything?
    I get that I have to remove the pipes (have to anyways to realign them)
    I have a 1-ton rolling gantry to help with this.

    Any help is appreciated.IMG_0365.jpg

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    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    I put a floor jack under the oil pan with a 2x4 on the jack pad.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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  4. #3
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    I've lifted the oil pan like Rich, but I try to get a larger board to better hit the edges of the pan. I've also lifted from the front & rear of the heads or the manifold carb pad.
    Jim
    2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
    2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.

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    Ok thanks guys
    Seemingly stupid question but I gotta ask.
    Do you remove the bolts from both the tranny and motor mounts to allow for the lift?
    Anything else to watch for? (Ie witness marking anything m, etc)

    Appreciate it
    Cheers

  7. #5
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I think I'd prefer to do one side at a time. Thinking this would displace the engine the least so 'maybe' no need to disconnect wires and hoses. Undo the big nut underneath and then the bolts to the block. This will allow you to wiggle the mount out from between the block and the frame w/ the least amount of engine movement
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

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    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'm with Craig. Raise one side using a floor jack and swap the mount. Put it down and do the same on the other side. After both engine mounts are done put the jack under the trans and change that mount. Easy peasy!

    Jeff

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    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    What makes you think you need new mounts? I believe you plan on changing the engine in the not so distant future. Unless your current engine is moving around excessively, I would save the time and money, and change the mounts when you change the engine.
    Doc, you seem to have a lot of irons in the fire with all the changes you are trying to make to the car. Suggest you pick the item that’s the most annoying or a safety concern, and get that done, then move on to the next.

    Norm
    Mk4 base kit 7721, 331 Stroker, Holley Sniper EFI, Wipers, Heater, Whitby Soft Top, Drop trunk mod and more

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    Quote Originally Posted by Norm B View Post
    What makes you think you need new mounts? I believe you plan on changing the engine in the not so distant future. Unless your current engine is moving around excessively, I would save the time and money, and change the mounts when you change the engine.
    Doc, you seem to have a lot of irons in the fire with all the changes you are trying to make to the car. Suggest you pick the item that’s the most annoying or a safety concern, and get that done, then move on to the next.

    Norm
    Agree and that’s what I am choosing based on a consensus here. My drivers side pipe is hitting the body during torque. The engine won’t be out for a bit and it’s either risk damaging the body and the pipe more, or change the mounts and hope that fixes the issue. If not, it’s grind the body.
    The motor is coming out but not for a bit and I have a driver. I’d like to drive it
    This is in another thread but if you look close the front most pipe is 3/8” away from the body and hits. Hasn’t damaged body yet but only a matter of time. It has started to mar the ceramic coating however
    I’ll repaint in the distant future but consensus here was to change mounts, then if that didn’t work drum sand the body per a few guys recommendations. I think it’s the most logical path as well.
    IMG_0332.jpg
    Last edited by Doc76; 10-02-2024 at 11:41 AM.

  13. #9
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    Guys would you suggest loosening off the tranny mount bolts when tweaking the engine side to side for the motor mount swaps?
    I did the tranny cause I was in there tonight. Changed out real simple but with the engine I see I’ll need to disconnect the side pipes from the headers and a few lines up top cause I can’t get enough movement to slide the mount out.

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