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Thread: Trim dashboard body lip?

  1. #1
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    Trim dashboard body lip?

    Just put the body on for the first time and the dashboard body lip is hard up against the dashboard while the rear cockpit lip does not quite clear the cockpit aluminum. Also the door hinges bind slightly as they approach full open.
    It seems like the dashboard body roll needs to be relieved by 1/4-3/16”.
    Does this seem reasonable or do I have something else out of wack?

    IMG_0003.jpgIMG_0004.jpgIMG_0005.jpgIMG_7009.jpg

    Thanks!
    Steve

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveWorth View Post
    Just put the body on for the first time and the dashboard body lip is hard up against the dashboard while the rear cockpit lip does not quite clear the cockpit aluminum. Also the door hinges bind slightly as they approach full open.
    It seems like the dashboard body roll needs to be relieved by 1/4-3/16”.
    Does this seem reasonable or do I have something else out of wack?

    IMG_0003.jpgIMG_0004.jpgIMG_0005.jpgIMG_7009.jpg

    Thanks!
    Steve
    Hi Steve,
    I had to remove quite a bit of both the front and rear cockpit body lip to get everything to fit. Make sure you have extra space for the carpet and dash material including padding. At the center of my dash it is cut back about as far as you can without removing the radiused portion of the rolled edge. It looks fine with the dash installed but had me a bit nervous. I used a thin spacer with a paint pen to mark the areas to be trimmed which is not the entire width of the car. Most of the trimming is in the middle of the dash. The rear had some trimming on the sides as well. As far as door fitment, I had a few challenges that don't seem to be common on the MK4 body but are likely specific to the 289. My passenger door needed to be spaced back about 1/4" using washers to get it to open and close without the hinges catching the body. The drivers side seemed good where it was without a spacer. I also had to relieve a couple spots where the hinges contact the body to get the doors to open fully. The most significant fitment issue I had was that my body didn't sit correctly with the quick jack bolts installed in the factory location. The lowest I could mount it was still too high to get the sides of the body to tuck under the frame. I needed to drop the nose about 1/2-5/8" by drilling new holes in the frame. I used the original holes in the body. At first I was reluctant to do this but it corrected another problem I was having with getting the hood hinges to align correctly. This may have been an issue specific to my frame because I haven't seen any other mentions of this but for me it seemed to correct a few fitment issues and it looks correct fully assembled.
    Lars
    Lars
    Novice Build: 289 USRRC Complete Kit #10524, 3rd Gen Coyote, TKX, IRS, 17" Halibrands, Wilwood Brakes, Power Steering

  3. #3
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    Dec 2021
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    Lars,
    Thanks for your feedback and it sounds like you encountered exactly the same issues that I am having with regards to the cockpit area fitment. I assume its necessary to make sure there is no contact on the front and the rear cockpit edges to keep all of the dimensions correct.
    I have not really messed with the doors or the hood yet to know where I am there.
    Thanks again for the feedback!
    Steve

  4. #4
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    Your car looks great!
    I am cheating a bit. Jeff over at Whitby Motorcars is painting mine and mounting the body.
    So, I can't offer advise, but I can offer moral support.

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