Seat track brackets

[Power Surge]

I have a set of Dave Borden's original seat track brackets. I believe Shane makes them now as well. I have searched both FFR forums for images of how they set up the seat tracks, but every post just points to Dave's original post and GTM build site, which is dead along with all the linked pics.

Anyone have pics of how this setup works?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Here is the set up for that. I don't offer any seat tracks....I just buy them off ebay or whatever when I need them....most of them are pretty generic and constructed nearly the same. I always use the seat tracks with my seat mounting brackets....just makes things easier. The tracks bolt to the sides of the seat....not the bottom. This way you don't lose any headroom. The seat still sits right on the floor pan as low as it can go. The front of the seat is narrower than the rear, so you can see in the photos that there are no washers between the track and the seat at the rear, and a whole stack of washers between the seat and track at the front. The tracks MUST be parallel in both planes in order for the seat to work in the end. You can make sure they are parallel across the seat by simply measuring with a tape measure and keep adding washers to the front until the measurement across the back of the tracks measures the same as across the front. In the other plane, you can just sight across the bottom of the seat from one track to the other. Since the tracks mount up on the seat a ways, you can't really see directly from one track to the other to make sure they're parallel, so you may have to place something like a ruler or paint stick onto the seat track to sight across the bottom of the seat to make sure both tracks are parallel. You also want to pay attention to where the tracks are adjusted when you're installing them onto the seat and into the car. No sense in putting the seat all the way back as far as it will go in the car and then installing the tracks in a middle position of travel....or you just wasted half the travel of the tracks. My suggestion would be to first position the seat where you want it in the car....put the hood on and sit in the car and make sure you have good visibility out of the windshield....which usually requires your head to be very close to the roof. You can wedge shims (2x4's/paint sticks, whatever) under the front edge of the seat and between the seat back and fuel tank cover so that the seat is sort of wedged in place. mark your wedges onto the floor of the car with a marker so you can re-produce this seat position once you get out of the car.

Now you can figure out the orientation of the tracks so that you can get the adjustment linkage to clear everything (you'll likely have to bend the rod or make your own rod to adjust the seat). Bolt the tracks to your seat mounting brackets and then position the tracks/brackets next to the seat to see the approx area where the seat tracks need to bolt to the sides of the seat. The pics should pretty well explain the rest. You need to get the rear inboard track/mounting bracket moved as close to the tunnel as possible and make sure that the door will close all the way with the seat installed in that position.

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[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

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[Power Surge]

Thanks shane. Makes sense now. I didn't realize the seat tracks got moved to the side of the seat which is what I was having a hard time understanding.

[Power Surge]

So I'm guessing when you move the seat tracks to the side you just have to get creative with the equalizer Rod between them going under the seat?

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Normally, only one side locks. We put the adjuster/release lever on one side (usually the outboard side) and the inboard side is always free to move.