ATX MKIV #9644 Coyote Build Thread (Index Post #137)

[Blitzboy54]

A lot of great detail in here. Much appreciated update.

[dbo_texas]

And finally, here a pic w/ the engine cover installed:

Forgot to post this pic showing the direction/orientation of the MAF sensor. This is the sensor that gets removed from the stock intake/filter box that comes with the crate motor. I have it positioned with the rounded edge toward the bend in the intake elbow, so that the air gets forced into the sensor. If this is incorrect, somebody let me know! It's easy enough to flip - you just have to flip around the Treadstone MAF tube.

[dbo_texas]

I found a 3/8 SAE Quick Disconnect cap to put on the 3/8 port on the outside elbow of the intake. Looks a little cleaner vs. the rubber cap + clamp option. I thought the evap purge vent above the throttle body was also 3/8 but it's slightly larger....maybe 7/16 so I kept that one capped with a clamp. Surprisingly there don't appear to be many places that make these SAE blanking caps, but this is where I got it from if others are interested:
https://www.anhosefittings.com/racef...nking-cap.html

[dbo_texas]

Haven't had a chance to work on the car for about 2 months. I'm planning to take this week off for Thanksgiving and get some good hours in. Tonight I decided to mount the actuator cable for the heater bypass valve. This has been bothering me for a while because I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Turned out to be pretty simple. I used the bypass valve provided with the kit from FFR and cut the end off which has the screw clamp. Then I just riveted this to the firewall to secure the cable jacket. Tested and seems to work fine.

One question - what's the best way to secure the cable end onto the post? It can slip up or down (and fall off) fairly easily at the moment. Seems like one good bump will knock it off. I thought about using some JB Weld to fix a small washer just before the bend - that would take care of it moving up. I suppose I could do the same on the bottom after installing the cable but that would make servicing it a pain.

[dbo_texas]

Over Thanksgiving break I was able to mount the blast gates for each footbox fresh air vent along with the pull cable. I also made some custom heat shields to create a barrier between the headers and the footboxes and also provide a little extra protection for the fresh air vent hoses. Overall this took way longer than I thought it would take. Not sure how much it will reduce the heat on either to footboxes OR the air vent hoses, but I thought it was worth a shot. I insulated the backside of the heat shields with CoolIT thermal/acoustic stick-on mats. Here are some pictures and videos.

VIDEO overview of driver side:


VIDEO overview of passenger side:
https://youtu.be/Wah3vQmSD20

DS pull cable location (I may need to move this if it interferes w/ the door hinge):


DS blast gate and pull cable routing:


DS heat shield:


Another view of DS heat shield. Mounted using rivet nuts and 10-24 screws. The rivet nuts create about a 3/8" air gap.


And here's the PS pull cable routing:


PS heat shield: