Some info on the 289 with pin drive wheels

[Jphoenix]

For those pondering ordering a 289 kit intending to install pin drive wheels, here's what I've experienced with mine so far:



I originally ordered a 289 kit, only comes as a complete kit. Then I decided I wanted the Trigo pin drive FIA wheels, Chris at Trigo was very responsive and shipped me a set very quickly. The wheels, hubs and spinners are very high quality and look great. Chris mentioned I would need the shortened Moser axle, so I called FFR and they were happy to change my original order of the 3 link Moser to a shortened 3 link Moser. The MOSER axle is an excellent value because it comes fully prepared for the 3 link setup - just bolt it up and go. The 11.65" rear brakes fit fine inside the Trigos.

Can't use the IRS rear with pin drives because they can't provide the shortened axles. That's OK because I had planned on the 3 link anyhow.

I didn't realize I would have to order shortened from LCA's until after the kit arrived. So, I called FFR and they were happy to exchange my standard front LCA's for the shorter LCA's for the pin drives.

Installing the axle and front suspension went fine, I did have to cut about .5" off the wheel studs on each hub to allow for the drive pins, but that only cut off the un-threaded portion of the wheel stud - so less unsprung weight

I ordered the power steering rack and it was a tight fit, but I got it in. I had to cut about an inch off the tie-rod threads of the rack to allow for the shorter front distance between the tie-rods because of the shorter LCA's.

Otherwise, it went very smoothly, did a rough alignment and all is within specs with plenty of adjustment remaining. So, if you are considering pin drives for your 289 - do it! I used the same size tires Erik Treves used for his Black Mamba.

[Mike_T]

Jim,
I've got the same set up as you except Factory Five shipped SN95 spindles and their adapter to mount them to the upper control arm. I'm going to need to have the couplings of the upper control arm shortened because my wheels are cambered out at the top and I'm out of adjustment. I was thinking just machine the shoulder off on both sides and that will give me enough room. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?
Thanks,
Mike

[Jphoenix]

Jim,
I've got the same set up as you except Factory Five shipped SN95 spindles and their adapter to mount them to the upper control arm. I'm going to need to have the couplings of the upper control arm shortened because my wheels are cambered out at the top and I'm out of adjustment. I was thinking just machine the shoulder off on both sides and that will give me enough room. Does anyone have any thoughts or experience with this?
Thanks,
Mike

I saw a thread earlier in this forum that discussed shortening the upper arm links to accommodate the shorter lower LCA’s and get the -.5 degree camber. I didn’t have to shorten mine, but they are very close to bottoming out. I may have to shorten the rear links when I do the final alignment, but looks like it will be ok.

[7litergt]

Nice work! Your build thread is really interesting to watch.. Scouring the internet, it seems the general understanding is that you need to run the SN95 spindles with pin-drive front width suspension. It appears that you are running the 2-piece spindles with no problems, is that correct? I was originally sent the 2-piece spindles in my kit, but when I let them know what was shipped, they sent me the SN95s to use with the adapters (which is what is on my car at the moment). I'd be curious if I can shift over to the 2-piece spindles instead.

[Jphoenix]

Nice work! Your build thread is really interesting to watch.. Scouring the internet, it seems the general understanding is that you need to run the SN95 spindles with pin-drive front width suspension. It appears that you are running the 2-piece spindles with no problems, is that correct? I was originally sent the 2-piece spindles in my kit, but when I let them know what was shipped, they sent me the SN95s to use with the adapters (which is what is on my car at the moment). I'd be curious if I can shift over to the 2-piece spindles instead.

Yes, I'm using the 2-piece spindles, they appear to be fine. -I can get the .5 degree of camber and 7 degrees of caster no problem. If I need more camber, I can simply shorten the upper control arm links, but doesn't look like that's necessary. I measured front track at 57", rear track at 58.5" as specified - so the front track appears to be about 1.5" short, but not sure that makes a difference and may be related to tire size.

Dan at FFR didn't mention having to use the SN95 spindles when I requested the shorter LCA's, so must be OK?

[7litergt]

One more question for you... It sounds like you have gotten to the point in your build where you have the static alignment setup where you like it. Are you noticing any positive camber gain under compression?

I went ahead and swapped over to the two-piece style spindles on my build over the past weekend (as well as changing out the ball joints to some Moog units), and was very pleased with the assembly. I got the chassis down on the tires at ride height (just under 5" to the ground) and when I set more weight in the car to simulate some compression I can see the tops of the tires moving outward. Its not a ton, but enough to notice... I figured I would check if you are seeing the same thing on yours? I realize there are limitations to the packaging on this front suspension, so I dont know how much of a camber change is normal.

[Jeff Kleiner]

One more question for you... It sounds like you have gotten to the point in your build where you have the static alignment setup where you like it. Are you noticing any positive camber gain under compression?

I went ahead and swapped over to the two-piece style spindles on my build over the past weekend (as well as changing out the ball joints to some Moog units), and was very pleased with the assembly. I got the chassis down on the tires at ride height (just under 5" to the ground) and when I set more weight in the car to simulate some compression I can see the tops of the tires moving outward. Its not a ton, but enough to notice... I figured I would check if you are seeing the same thing on yours? I realize there are limitations to the packaging on this front suspension, so I dont know how much of a camber change is normal.

Caster has a big effect on camber change.

Jeff

[Jphoenix]

One more question for you... It sounds like you have gotten to the point in your build where you have the static alignment setup where you like it. Are you noticing any positive camber gain under compression?

I went ahead and swapped over to the two-piece style spindles on my build over the past weekend (as well as changing out the ball joints to some Moog units), and was very pleased with the assembly. I got the chassis down on the tires at ride height (just under 5" to the ground) and when I set more weight in the car to simulate some compression I can see the tops of the tires moving outward. Its not a ton, but enough to notice... I figured I would check if you are seeing the same thing on yours? I realize there are limitations to the packaging on this front suspension, so I dont know how much of a camber change is normal.

I plan to put the car on the ground later this weekend, but first I plan to replace the right front spring as I just received the correct 500# spring from FFR. I’ll check the steering and alignment again. Right now it’s up in the air and it has a lot of negative camber, as I lower it, I’ve seen it settled and end up at -.5 degrees, so the suspension does move the camber positive as the car squats down on its suspension. I suspect if I set the camber at ride height, it will go slightly positive depending on how low the car dives under braking.