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Thread: Both brake & clutch master cylinders are 0.75"

  1. #1
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    Both brake & clutch master cylinders are 0.75"

    All,

    All 3 master cylinders are 0.75" bore, manual has 3/4" (0.75) Front and 5/8" Rear

    Third one for clutch

    Anyone got the same ? Will get with FFR but putting it out there.

    Thanks
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  2. #2
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    All three with my Speedstar were .75"

  3. #3
    Senior Member dstelter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark B View Post
    All,

    All 3 master cylinders are 0.75" bore, manual has 3/4" (0.75) Front and 5/8" Rear

    Third one for clutch

    Anyone got the same ? Will get with FFR but putting it out there.

    Thanks
    Yep mine were the same size as well (front and back brakes)

  4. #4
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    mine all the same
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand.
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21, CA SB100 Registered 8/27/24 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering. Album Here

  5. #5
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    They seemed to have been using 5/8 on the rear for all the kit models until sometime in the last couple of years and then quietly changed to all 3/4.... Presumably the change can be compensated for with the bias bar to still achieve the same results...

    Steve
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  6. #6
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    Yes, that is the same setup they've been using for a while now. Nothing wrong with what you have, and yes, it will work.

    That being said, I would encourage you to do a few hours of homework here (and via google) on changing the sizes of the MC's for either function. (brakes and clutch)

    I swapped to a larger MC for the clutch (very happy I did). Makes the clutch engage much closer to the floor with my setup (T56 and Forte's slave cyl.)

    and I have 2 smaller MC's for the brakes too that I have not yet swapped out. Goal there is to get a more "progressive" feel to the pedal. There's some good discussion out there related to making this change along with more aggressive pads (depending on what setup you have).

    Just food for thought - I sure wish I had set things up this way BEFORE the car was finished. Changing the MC's a pain in the *** at this point. (Which might be why I haven't done it yet!)

    Rian

  7. #7
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    appreciate the input

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rian_Colorado View Post

    Just food for thought - I sure wish I had set things up this way BEFORE the car was finished. Changing the MC's a pain in the *** at this point. (Which might be why I haven't done it yet!)

    Rian
    Along those lines you might want to look into the threads on changing out the wilwood MCs before the body's. I had 3 Wilwood MCs leak before 250 miles and am glad I didnt have the footbox panels and body on before I changed. Wilwood said it was lateral load that caused the leak and sent me a rebuild kit for the first leak. After the next 2 leaks I changed to Tilton MCs.

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