For sale - Price drop - MK 4 base kit / rolling chassis - $20,000
Selling my MK 4 kit after 15 Years. I haven't touched it 2016. It was at the rolling chassis stage then.
Base kit with a 1994 Mustang Cobra donor. New engine block (previous owner had used engine mount bolts that were too long and pierced into a cooling channel and patched with JB Weld). Also new gas tank and radiator.
Add-ons from Factory 5:
Powder coating
Upgraded lower control arms
3 Link suspension
Catalytic Converters
Halibrand replica wheels
Sun visors
Heater/defroster kit
Wiper kit
Additional add-ons:
Kirkey seats
Seat heaters
Kumho tires
Speedhut Guages
Modifications to the footwells for more room.
Drilled/slotted rotors
Breeze engine compartment battery mount
Remaining work to be done:
Finish wiring. Honestly, the biggest challenge was dealing with the donor harness. In hindsight, I would have got a complete kit, or at least an FFR wiring harness.
Installing wipers/heater/defroster
Mounting the seats
Installing the body and finishing
Located in Southeast Connecticut.
The kit was $15000, the donor $5000, engine work $2200, add-ons at least another $5000.
Mark's question jogged my memory. I replaced the rear end with a rebuilt rear end in order to get 3:55 gears. About all that is left from the donor are the Cobra calipers and transmission. His classified ad, which I'm gonna add to the posting, says the entire underside was replaced with from a wrecked Cobra with less than 30,000 miles on it. I drove it 150 miles home, and it seemed fine and strong, but the bushing he mentioned being bad was obvious. The front of the title says the car is exempt from an odometer reading since it was more than 10 years old, but on the back he wrote in 232,742, which is what was on the odometer I removed. The engine ran great when I first started it. It ran under it's own power in the driveway. I regret not taking it out for a fun drive. Right now the intake is removed because I was running the wiring to the kill switch in the dash. I was also modifying the dash with wood inserts, and to make it easier to get to the wiring/relays behind the dash, and to put in a stereo/subwoofer (included).
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