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Thread: Metco Drivehaft Loop

  1. #1
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    Metco Drivehaft Loop

    Anyone running this loop with a 302/T5 setup with rear disc?
    I am curious if this loop interferes with the e-brake cables as others have experience with other setups I have read online.

    https://metcomotorsports.com/mdl2500

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hi Doc,

    For my 302/T5 setup (using the old T-bird IRS), the brake cables did interfere with the Metco driveshaft loop. This is not a big deal if you haven't riveted in your floor pans yet.

    As I recall, you're working on a completed car, so you're in the same boat as I was. My solution was dirt simple; I fabbed a bracket out of 1/4" thick aluminum to move the cable ends such that the cables no longer interfered. It's ugly, but I don't spend a lot of time admiring the underside of my car!


    John

    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    Senior Member MPTech's Avatar
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    I'm also running a 302/T5/IRS, but I relocated my e-brake to the top of the trans tunnel, so may not be the same situation. For the record, I had no interfernce with the Safety Loop. Hope that helps.
    F5R #7446: MK4, 302, T5 midshift, 3.55 Posi IRS, 17" Halibrands
    Delivered 4/4/11, First start 9/29/12, Licensed 4/24/13, off to PAINT 2/15/14!! Wahoo!

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    I have a BP302 and T5 trans with FF supplied OEM disk brakes. I installed the Metco Loop and here was interference, like John above I make a bracket and attached it to the frame, installed a pulley wheel which directs the cables away from the hoop. The reroute of the cables required me to cut them shorter so I purchased a Lokar - Threaded pinch block to capture the cables, adjusted the threaded rod to the handle and called it complete. Edward B's anniversary build thread has great pictures of this mod, mine is a close variation. Much easier to do before the cockpit tin is installed!!!!.
    2022 MKIV BP347, SniperEFI, IRS. Delivered June 22, Engine install Jan 23, first start May 23. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-update

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    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    I have my cables running in the loop. I had to put some spacers under my loop to clear the driveshaft and this made the cables too close. I figure if my driveshaft explodes, I'll have more to worry about than my ebrake cables getting cut.

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    Senior Member flyboyjy's Avatar
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    I did a similar thing to EdwardB but I used two rollers. First picture shows the cable set up the second one you can see the rollers and cables in the upper part of the picture. Does not touch or bind. Park brake does hold.CABLE1.jpgMETCO.jpg

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    Thanks guys
    So yes I am working on a completed car. Sounds as though I would be best off to install the hoop prior to starting in on the rear disc conversion to see where the hoop lands vs the '94 e-brake cable that came in my FFR rear conversion kit.
    Would you guys agree?

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    Quote Originally Posted by egchewy79 View Post
    I have my cables running in the loop. I had to put some spacers under my loop to clear the driveshaft and this made the cables too close. I figure if my driveshaft explodes, I'll have more to worry about than my ebrake cables getting cut.
    Any chance of a picture?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_J. View Post
    I have a BP302 and T5 trans with FF supplied OEM disk brakes. I installed the Metco Loop and here was interference, like John above I make a bracket and attached it to the frame, installed a pulley wheel which directs the cables away from the hoop. The reroute of the cables required me to cut them shorter so I purchased a Lokar - Threaded pinch block to capture the cables, adjusted the threaded rod to the handle and called it complete. Edward B's anniversary build thread has great pictures of this mod, mine is a close variation. Much easier to do before the cockpit tin is installed!!!!.
    What's the best way to locate Edward B's build thread?
    I don't get any hits on the search bar.

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Go to https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...rogress-Update and look at any of his posts. In his signature block at the bottom are links to all his build threads. Pretty much required reading.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    What John said x2. EdwardB's threads are pretty thorough. My car was pretty much complete when I attached the hoop as well, not a lot of space to operate in there but it's doable. For sure get the hoop installed first so you can see what's gotta be done.
    2022 MKIV BP347, SniperEFI, IRS. Delivered June 22, Engine install Jan 23, first start May 23. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...4-Build-update

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    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    My first build was 302/T5 with a straight axle. There was some light contact but wasn’t an issue. Brakes worked fine.

    Last edited by Blitzboy54; 10-28-2024 at 02:59 PM.
    Build 1 MK4 #10008 - Delivered 03/03/21, Graduated 7/20/22 - Sold 6/6/24
    Build Thread #1 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Build 2 MK4 #11061- Delivered 08/24/24
    Build Thread #2 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...006#post562006

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    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Same setup as Blitzboy, same interference (with a photo from the top). And same result - it's light contact when driving / not engaged, and it engages smoothly.


    by John Ibele, on Flickr
    MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
    The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
    Meandering, leisurely build thread is here

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    Senior Member dbo_texas's Avatar
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    I have a different drivetrain (Coyote Gen2 + T56) but did install the Metco loop. Lots of pictures and a video on my build thread HERE. Looks like the overall placement was similar. I did have to trim my Metco mounting bracket a bit to center the loop over the driveshaft, but it wasn't too bad. Just barely clears the parking brake cables.
    Darryl [dbo_texas]
    MKIV #9644 (build thread) (Index)
    MK4 Complete Kit | Gen2 crate Coyote | Tremec T56, 3.55 IRS | power steering | hydroboost | dual roll bars | FFR carbon fiber dash | 18" Halibrands + Wilwoods | RT drop trunk kit & turn signal | front battery mount | saddle leather Intatrim Stoneleigh seats + interior accents

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    Hi all,
    I am nearing the end of my build and question the need for a Metco loop. Even with a very high horsepower motor it seems unlikely that the U-joint would explode since we just spin tires and do not HOOK. Please forgive my short history with these cars but have there been events needing the loop? On a drag tire car I can see the need but on a street Cobra, I question it(I am an engineer), other than a feel good. Tks

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    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
    Hi all,
    I am nearing the end of my build and question the need for a Metco loop. Even with a very high horsepower motor it seems unlikely that the U-joint would explode since we just spin tires and do not HOOK. Please forgive my short history with these cars but have there been events needing the loop? On a drag tire car I can see the need but on a street Cobra, I question it(I am an engineer), other than a feel good. Tks
    I am not aware of any cases like you suggest, and I think your reasoning is sound. But there are others out there with more experience with these cars in strenuous use cases who could provide better input.

    That said, I've absorbed input on the forum for years, and even experienced folks often end up making their choices for reasons they can't entirely explain. Of course the odds of anything bad happening with bell housing / safety loop / seats ... is very low, yet we'd all regret it if something bad happened. Sometimes folks focus on the 'very low' part, and other times on the 'regret' part, and go back and forth between the two.

    I went with an aluminum bell housing instead of spun steel using reasoning similar to yours ... the time I spend over 5000 RPM is probably best measured in seconds each summer, and the odds of something bad happening are on the same level as the chance of being struck by lightning on a Tuesday. Other folks would never do that. A bigger risk is not having seats with a built-in headrest, but I'm far from the only one taking that risk (including many who wouldn't make my bell housing choice). I wasn't going to sacrifice the look. Same thing with my silly bullet mirrors giving me 1/3 rear view and 2/3 fender. Yet somehow when it came to the driveshaft going sideways into my hip ... I just hit 'purchase' on the Metco and put it in. Done. If they were honest about it, I have the feeling you'd hear many similar stories from others about how they managed risk, if you can even dignify it with that term.

    After wrapping myself around the axle with these sorts of questions, I'd repeat my mantra ... life is short, take reasonable risks, have fun
    Last edited by John Ibele; 10-29-2024 at 08:05 PM.
    MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
    The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
    Meandering, leisurely build thread is here

  26. #17
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
    Hi all,
    I am nearing the end of my build and question the need for a Metco loop. Even with a very high horsepower motor it seems unlikely that the U-joint would explode since we just spin tires and do not HOOK. Please forgive my short history with these cars but have there been events needing the loop? On a drag tire car I can see the need but on a street Cobra, I question it(I am an engineer), other than a feel good. Tks
    There is nothing between your hip joint & universal joint but beer can aluminum & the edge of the seat. A hundred dollars or so for a Metco Loop is cheap insurance.





    Many cars like mine (315X35X17) are running 100 treadware compound 24/7 not just at the strip or track. There is a lot of bite in these tires even on the street.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 10-29-2024 at 09:16 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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    Senior Member Blitzboy54's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
    Hi all,
    I am nearing the end of my build and question the need for a Metco loop. Even with a very high horsepower motor it seems unlikely that the U-joint would explode since we just spin tires and do not HOOK. Please forgive my short history with these cars but have there been events needing the loop? On a drag tire car I can see the need but on a street Cobra, I question it(I am an engineer), other than a feel good. Tks
    Yes there are pictures of a builder on here that had his drive shaft separate. The shafts are short so it created a windmill effect. Ripped the center do the car apart right between the seats. Driver was very lucky it didn’t shatter his hip. After seeing that I installed the loop. Will never not have one. It’s cheap insurance.


    ***Edit, Bear-AvHistory beat me to it.
    Last edited by Blitzboy54; 10-29-2024 at 09:11 PM.
    Build 1 MK4 #10008 - Delivered 03/03/21, Graduated 7/20/22 - Sold 6/6/24
    Build Thread #1 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...been-delivered
    Build 2 MK4 #11061- Delivered 08/24/24
    Build Thread #2 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...006#post562006

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  30. #19
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    Any chance some of you guys that have done the pulley thing would share some clearer pictures of how you routed up and over the frame with the Ebrake as well as the connections at the lever?
    I was under the car tonight and not too convinced I have the space up under there for the pulley system I see in the picture in post #6 above

  31. #20
    Senior Member 42Bfast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
    Hi all,
    I am nearing the end of my build and question the need for a Metco loop. Even with a very high horsepower motor it seems unlikely that the U-joint would explode since we just spin tires and do not HOOK. Please forgive my short history with these cars but have there been events needing the loop? On a drag tire car I can see the need but on a street Cobra, I question it(I am an engineer), other than a feel good. Tks
    I know firsthand of a Cobra that lost a retaining clip in the universal joint during a dyno run. The shaft flopped around inside the loop but still cut a 1 inch gash in the STEEL cross member. The shockwave completely shattered the transmission case AND the engine block. However, the “driver” walked away with nothing more than weak knees, trembling hands, and messed pants.
    Can it happen? Yes.
    Does it happen often? No.
    But if it does you will thank the Lord above that you had the foresight to install a loop.

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc76 View Post
    Any chance some of you guys that have done the pulley thing would share some clearer pictures of how you routed up and over the frame with the Ebrake as well as the connections at the lever?
    I was under the car tonight and not too convinced I have the space up under there for the pulley system I see in the picture in post #6 above
    Check out post #180 (very top or very bottom of the page, depending on your settings) at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...y-Build/page15.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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  35. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Check out post #180 (very top or very bottom of the page, depending on your settings) at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...y-Build/page15.


    John
    Awesome thread!
    Thanks for sharing this.

  36. #23
    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc76 View Post
    Any chance some of you guys that have done the pulley thing would share some clearer pictures of how you routed up and over the frame with the Ebrake as well as the connections at the lever?
    I was under the car tonight and not too convinced I have the space up under there for the pulley system I see in the picture in post #6 above
    Build thread topic starts at post #120

    Or click on the photo below. You should be able to roam around there and see a bunch of additional photos in my Flickr album.


    by John Ibele, on Flickr
    Last edited by John Ibele; 10-30-2024 at 02:23 PM.
    MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
    The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
    Meandering, leisurely build thread is here

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Ibele View Post
    Build thread topic starts at post #120

    Or click on the photo below. You should be able to roam around there and see a bunch of additional photos in my Flickr album.


    by John Ibele, on Flickr
    Great minds think alike
    I literally sketched something on my whiteboard in my office moments before looking at your post
    Think I’ll need 2 pullies though to kick the cable over the driveshaft. My driveshaft is kicked slightly to the passenger side with not a lot of room for a loop after I reroute the cable up and over and add the loop.


    IMG_0753.jpg
    Last edited by Doc76; 10-30-2024 at 05:06 PM.

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    After several convinced me the loop is an inexpensive safety feature I pulled the trigger and installed. My install was slightly different so I am posting pictures on my 2024 kit/302/TKX/IRS. To keep the bracket as high as possible I did not use any washers under the transmission frame bolts(holes not slots/less interference) and I placed a washer between the transmission frame and loop bracket at forward hole.(tipped bracket up slightly) Even so I needed to add large nut spacers due to a spacer on rear of tranny for drive shaft alignment. Loop does just slightly rub on the e-brake cables but they still work fine.(I did the roller mod on top of 4")
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by Waterman View Post
    After several convinced me the loop is an inexpensive safety feature I pulled the trigger and installed. My install was slightly different so I am posting pictures on my 2024 kit/302/TKX/IRS. To keep the bracket as high as possible I did not use any washers under the transmission frame bolts(holes not slots/less interference) and I placed a washer between the transmission frame and loop bracket at forward hole.(tipped bracket up slightly) Even so I needed to add large nut spacers due to a spacer on rear of tranny for drive shaft alignment. Loop does just slightly rub on the e-brake cables but they still work fine.(I did the roller mod on top of 4")
    Any chance of some pictures of your roller mod?
    Seems everyone does it slightly differently.
    Also what ebrake did you use?
    Mine is from a donor and is kinda janky…

  41. #27
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Take the time to look at the pictures of the destroyed driveshaft. I see two different cars, the top is an underside of what looks like a Factory Five, the other top view is of a highly modified drag car. You don't see any of the transmission tunnel frame work in the bottom photo. Also you'll see all the damage was behind the seat. The Metco hoop is mounted behind you, outside of the transmission tunnel. A blown driveshaft is not coming into the passenger compartment, the hoop is to keep the driveshaft from doing major damage to the car.
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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    I am actually surprised I haven’t seen anyone make a loop that comes up and off the brackets circled here. Would resolve the issue with the Metco hanging low. The lower issue doesn’t bother me but it wouldn’t be hard to do.

    IMG_0757.jpeg

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  44. #29
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    I had a DS Loop built. It's designed to contain the DS. Approx 4-1/2" ID for a 3" DS tube. It's about 2" long using 1/4" steel tube.

    Also designed and built an E-Brake disk using a Wilwood mechanical brake. More of a parking brake than emergency brake. The disk takes the place of the CV yoke adapter plate. Still haven't figured out how I'll actuate the brake but it will either be some form of electronic or short cable system.

    On the Metco Hoop. Just my opinion, humble or not, because of it's size it will allow a lot of swing if an end breaks. More up/down than side/side. Not saying it's bad or won't be effective but just an observation.

    Jim

    IMG_6005-1.jpgIMG_6007-1.jpgIMG_6008-1.jpgIMG_6009-1.jpgIMG_6011-1.jpg
    2016 Mk4 Challenge Car, IRS, 3.31 Torsen, RDI Aluminum 427w, AFR 225s, Vic Jr. ProSystems 780 HP, TKO-600 w/Liberty mods. Forward cage. Levy 6/4 piston Wilwoods. Not completed yet, will be a streetable track car.
    2004 Superformance MkIII #1855, 2007 Superformance MkIII #2584 purchased in 2012 both sold.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim1855 View Post
    I had a DS Loop built. It's designed to contain the DS. Approx 4-1/2" ID for a 3" DS tube. It's about 2" long using 1/4" steel tube.

    Also designed and built an E-Brake disk using a Wilwood mechanical brake. More of a parking brake than emergency brake. The disk takes the place of the CV yoke adapter plate. Still haven't figured out how I'll actuate the brake but it will either be some form of electronic or short cable system.

    On the Metco Hoop. Just my opinion, humble or not, because of it's size it will allow a lot of swing if an end breaks. More up/down than side/side. Not saying it's bad or won't be effective but just an observation.

    Jim

    IMG_6005-1.jpgIMG_6007-1.jpgIMG_6008-1.jpgIMG_6009-1.jpgIMG_6011-1.jpg
    Very nice!
    Yes I think I’ll fabricate my own as well. While the Metco is convenient I’m not keen on how wide it is.

  46. #31
    Senior Member Rebostar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc76 View Post
    I am actually surprised I haven’t seen anyone make a loop that comes up and off the brackets circled here. Would resolve the issue with the Metco hanging low. The lower issue doesn’t bother me but it wouldn’t be hard to do.

    IMG_0757.jpeg
    Check out AArons You tube videos. He did exactly that. I have the Metco hoop but have not installed it yet. Concidering this type of mount. If I do it, I'll post pics here.
    Happy Trails.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebostar View Post
    Check out AArons You tube videos. He did exactly that. I have the Metco hoop but have not installed it yet. Concidering this type of mount. If I do it, I'll post pics here.
    Happy Trails.
    Thanks
    I haven’t had much luck with this sites search function. What’s the easiest way to find that video here?

  48. #33
    Senior Member BRRT's Avatar
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    I bought the Summit "universal" safety loop, less than $30. Hacked, cut, drilled and finally figured out a reasonable location that still allows the parking brake cables to work. I mounted it to the diagonal bars in the tunnel.
    ----------------------------------------------

    Jeff
    Roadster delivered 8/27/23
    Chevrolet Performance LS3
    Build Thread

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    Senior Member Rebostar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc76 View Post
    Thanks
    I haven’t had much luck with this sites search function. What’s the easiest way to find that video here?
    On You Tube search for Random Werks. (NOTE THE SPELLING) I dont know if he posted those videos here on the Forum. He has over 35 vids on You Tube all about his MK4 build. The one you want is Video #9. I highly recommend watching ALL of them. He has a lot of great ideas he put into his car.
    Last edited by Rebostar; 11-07-2024 at 10:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rebostar View Post
    On You Tube search for Random Werks. (NOTE THE SPELLING) I dont know if he posted those videos here on the Forum. He has over 35 vids on You Tube all about his MK4 build. The one you want is Video #9. I highly recommend watching ALL of them. He has a lot of great ideas he put into his car.
    Awesome
    Thanks for taking the time.
    Appreciate it

    I just watched his video. That’s exactly what I was thinking. Looks great.
    Last edited by Doc76; 11-07-2024 at 10:57 PM.

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