MJS Coupe Build

[MSumners]

[MSumners]

Other projects done! Time to get back after the coupe. Spending some time re-acquainting with the next steps and planning. Excited to get back to it.

[JimStone]

More important projects than a second toy car?! Blasphemy

[MSumners]

More important projects than a second toy car?! Blasphemy

Valid point

[PNWTim]

Agreed

[MSumners]

Brake line routing question. Future problem with interference or no problem? Accidentally went in back of the square bar.

[Kbl7td]

That’s where i went, you’ll just have to notch the panel that fits up there.

[JimStone]

I did the same. If you go in front of the square frame then you're into the engine bay. Plus, I blindly follow Paul and that's where he ran everything through (brake line, HTB line, electrical)

[MSumners]

I could make a trash-metal tyrannosaurus from the brake line error pieces I’m collecting.

[MSumners]

I'm at the point in the instructions where it's time for drivetrain install. I did finish the brakes beforehand just because I thought it would be easier.
Any other things recommended to do out of order and get done before drivetrain install, coyote specifically?

[MSumners]

Coyote ready to go home

[MSumners]

Dropped the coyote in today. Went slow and no real issues.

Question for those with the 6 speed magnum and coyote. How exactly does the Tran’s mount plate fit? Even with no spacer under the poly mount there isn’t enough room, even with the trans jacked up touching the tunnel top bars. The engine mounts are squared seated.

[edwardb]

Question for those with the 6 speed magnum and coyote. How exactly does the Tran’s mount plate fit? Even with no spacer under the poly mount there isn’t enough room, even with the trans jacked up touching the tunnel top bars. The engine mounts are squared seated.

I don't remember every specific detail, but my build with the T-56 and Coyote also pushed the shifter against the underside of the transmission tunnel. I ended up with the mounting plate under the chassis tabs. As I recall, had to trim the mounting plate just slightly to fit there. Worked OK from there.

[MSumners]

Perfect, thanks! Agreed the plate will have to be trimmed some but not bad to fit from underneath. Wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something!

I don't remember every specific detail, but my build with the T-56 and Coyote also pushed the shifter against the underside of the transmission tunnel. I ended up with the mounting plate under the chassis tabs. As I recall, had to trim the mounting plate just slightly to fit there. Worked OK from there.

[MSumners]

Holiday baking

[MSumners]

The engine I ordered came with a power steering pump but appears non adjustable, as far as I can tell. I think I would need to add a heidts valve?
I also actually have the KRC system as I planned poorly and ordered it from factory five. Is it easy to switch out? I really like the adjustable valve on the roadster and already know how I would set it up so leaning that way. Any thoughts appreciated

[edwardb]

I am a fan of the KRC setup for the Coyote. I've used it twice and they've been flawless. May not make a difference in a regular street driven build. But I'm convinced their in-house produced pumps are superior to the usual OE pump. The built-in reservoir makes plumbing easy. Plus with the changeable spool valves, you can adjust the boost pretty easily. Only disadvantage would be not able to change it on the fly like with a Heidts valve, e.g. one setting for the street and one for the track or auto-x. This is a picture of the KRC setup on my Coupe build including with an A/C compressor. I'm not positive the pulleys and serpentine setup are exactly what you already have. Could be more than just changing the A/C pump.

[MSumners]

Thanks! I think for now I’ll stick with the current setup and add the heidts valve. I think if I try to figure out the switch it may (definitely) lead to misordered parts and replacing more than I’d like. A bit more reading to do though.

I am a fan of the KRC setup for the Coyote. I've used it twice and they've been flawless. May not make a difference in a regular street driven build. But I'm convinced their in-house produced pumps are superior to the usual OE pump. The built-in reservoir makes plumbing easy. Plus with the changeable spool valves, you can adjust the boost pretty easily. Only disadvantage would be not able to change it on the fly like with a Heidts valve, e.g. one setting for the street and one for the track or auto-x. This is a picture of the KRC setup on my Coupe build including with an A/C compressor. I'm not positive the pulleys and serpentine setup are exactly what you already have. Could be more than just changing the A/C pump.

[MSumners]

Spent half the day thinking I was a crazy person, or maybe just crazier. I went to mount the coyote headers and the bolts wouldn’t easily start by hand. Did some reading, verified the right spec and pitch , checked the box. Then finally checked the actual bolt and realized the stage 8 box is mis-labeled. Calls out fine pitch 1.25 but is actually course 1.5.
Hopefully stage 8 or FFR will exchange, I’m confident they will if history is any guide.

[PNWTim]

Always nice to gaslight yourself with mislabeled parts! At least you figured it out before they went sailing out the garage door.

[MSumners]

Interesting thread issues lately.
This looks like 10-32 but isn’t. Nor an m5. Actually can’t get anything on my thread checker to start.
Anyone recall or know what thread this is supposed to be.
Otherwise no problem I’ll just drill and re-tap, just found it odd.

[Jim1855]

#12 maybe? I have an aluminum part that uses #12s. Looking at these I thought they were #10s. Quite a bit smaller than 1/4".

The diameter of the ID will be about .180".

https://www.mcmaster.com/91864A052/

Jim

[PNWTim]

I just unwrapped my MAF tube while doing inventory. I tried 8-32 which did not fit so they have to be metric but I didn't have any metric screws small enough to test. It's definitely not a #10.

[MSumners]

Good call I’ll try the 12. I think that’s not on the thread checker I have. Already had a McMaster order pended so added in

[MSumners]

This seems like a really reasonable place to talk myself into buying a welder.

[PNWTim]

What could go wrong?

[MSumners]

Question about the pinion angle. This is for the Gen3 coupe, coyote with a tremec 6 speed magnum and not a track car. This is as good as I can seem to get the pinion angle.
I did some reading and came across a post previously Naz was discussing this topic ( is he still around, I learned so much from his posts..). He was discussing how the phase of the angles is essentially the most important and I believe the center section and the driveshaft should be nearly parallel to keep the u joints in phase and what you really don't want is both pointing up or both point down. Please correct me as needed.
What do you all think about the angles above. This is with the trans slightly spaced upward from the mount to get it near parallel to the center section. I think to improve the other two angles the only options would be to lower the engine ( not sure how that would happen) or change the center section angle ( not sure how that would happen either).
Any input is appreciated.

[burchfieldb]

What angles are your transmission, drive shaft, and pinion at? You can use one of these to get it fairly accurate measurement.

download.jpg

Originally my pinion was pointed down towards the ground at 0.5 degs and made it impossible for me to get the correct angles since it caused my air cleaner to go above the hood.

[PNWTim]

I am assuming that's the Tremec app? If I recall, if you are in the green, you are essentially good to go. In a perfect world the lines drawn through the crank to tail shaft and the pinion centerline would be parallel (one essentially going downhill and one uphill).

I think you are correct in the sense that both down or both up is not ideal but in this case I am assuming you would need to raise the transmission about 1 full degree to achieve the angle differential you are looking for. Pretty sure the Tremec app is fairly fool proof so not sure it's worth going down the rabbit hole?

[edwardb]

My Gen 3 Coupe is exactly the same setup as yours. Gen 3 Coyote with kit supplied Energy Suspension mounts, T-56 trans, and IRS. Per my build notes: "With IRS, recommended that engine is 1 - 2 degrees down from fixed diff. Confirmed after mockup is OK within this range. No shim required for T-56 and Coupe mounting plate. However, plate mounted on bottom (vs. top as instructions show) in order for shifter to not be against transmission tunnel cover. Pinion angle OK installed that way."

8,000+ miles later and the driveline is smooth as silk. Personally, I've never been a fan of the Tremec app or their like. Don't overthink it. Measure the engine at the harmonic balancer, measure the diff, and do the math. You're looking for the difference between the two. The iPhone level app works OK. I have a small digital level that works better. I've read all the posts and watched the videos about harmonic balances, but with all due respect, all of my builds have been smooth after doing nothing more than adjusting as necessary to get the pinion angle in range. Which didn't require much on the Coupe.

[MSumners]

Thanks for the reassurance on the driveline angle. I have the operating angle at 1 degree and calling it good, all bolted back up. I did have to open up the mounting holes on the trans support plate to 0.75" to be able to shift the plate enough to the passenger side for the driveline to be straight.
I went to install the e brake cables and surprised how long they are. I don't recall having to zip tie them out of the way on the roadster but definitely will require some attachment points here. I sent some images and verified with FFR they are the correct cables. Just seems odd there wouldn't be an option that was a bit shorter.
Otherwise finished up the mock up steering shaft install. before final I'm going to order the same compression u joint connection for the steering rack attachment I used on the roadster as it seemed to help take the minimal residual slop out of the system. I did have quite a bit of interference between the steering shaft and the coyote pedal so trimmed it back as much as reasonable. Also had to re-drill the higher mounting point on the pedal attachment plate with it pushed all the way against the inner footbox to try to get some clearance for the apps harness connection. Not sure yet if it will clear and have to test fit it.
Other recent progress has been re-bleeding the brakes finishing and bleeding the clutch and setting pedal heights, pressure testing the brake connections, testing the 0.75 then switching to a 0.81 master cylinder for the clutch.
I'm still staring at welders nightly looking at the Miller multimatic 220 before I finish the driveshaft safety loop. Someone talk me into it.

I ended up drilling and tapping the connection for the air intake sensor an M6. why an m6 you ask? because I grabbed the wrong flipping drill bit!

[PNWTim]

I am curious what compression joint you are going to be using? You are making good progress here and very helpful for a new guy like me so thank you in advance.

Also, interesting you brought up that MAF boss. I have an entire drawer of essentially throw away metric and SAE screws that have come with bits and pieces over the years. I tried several of them and couldn't get anything to thread into mine, so go figure. It's almost like the threads are galled or something. Maybe someone else will ring in with a definitive?

[MSumners]

I think it is a unisteer 8050880 but let me verify, I need to check the size and spline count on the rack, I know I ordered one initially and had to return it previously.

[MSumners]

I am curious what compression joint you are going to be using? You are making good progress here and very helpful for a new guy like me so thank you in advance.

Also, interesting you brought up that MAF boss. I have an entire drawer of essentially throw away metric and SAE screws that have come with bits and pieces over the years. I tried several of them and couldn't get anything to thread into mine, so go figure. It's almost like the threads are galled or something. Maybe someone else will ring in with a definitive?

I was looking back at my images here. If you haven't drilled it out yet check to see if it is left threaded somehow? Almost looks like it from my images but maybe I'm crazy.

I ordered that unisteer I'll update when I verify it's the correct one again.

[PNWTim]

I was looking back at my images here. If you haven't drilled it out yet check to see if it is left threaded somehow? Almost looks like it from my images but maybe I'm crazy.

I ordered that unisteer I'll update when I verify it's the correct one again.

No, I haven't drilled it out but I can't imagine any good reason the threads would be reversed but I suppose anything is possible. I'll check it out.