Hey,
I'm just starting my wiring.
I see a lot of back and forth on the best place for the fuse panel.
Is there any conclusive agreement on the best placement?
I'm not against extending some wires, if needs be.
Thanks!
Chris
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Hey,
I'm just starting my wiring.
I see a lot of back and forth on the best place for the fuse panel.
Is there any conclusive agreement on the best placement?
I'm not against extending some wires, if needs be.
Thanks!
Chris
I'm also curious about this.
I am not a fan of using the angled tube in the drivers footwell for two reasons:
1) it's visible when opening the driver's door, and hard to make look pretty (maybe some sort of removable cover panel could be made)
2) That angled bar comes very close to hitting my right knee/shin when seated, so I think I'll cut it out. Otherwise , I think it would drive me crazy constantly bumping into it. I'm sure this depends on my seat choice and personal body makeup/anatomy
But the passengers side footwell is taken up by the AC unit, so not sure there's another place for it
Gen 3 Coupe #576 - "Project Deimos"
Ordered: 2/14/2024
Received: 5/24/2024
Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...upe-has-landed!
In post #97 of edwardB's build @Mike Everson was advocating placement in the dash area. FWIW, Paul stuck with the "above the left knee" location which seemed to work out OK for him.
Coupe complete kit ordered: 9/26/24. Gen 4 Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.73. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows.
I opted for one of these, which others have used, since I need to add some more fuses, relays, and some heavier guage wires. You could also mount this out under the hood, since it is a sealed enclosure. It is a lot of work to switch it out and to understand FFRs wiring schematics. Overall the cost is not bad, plus you can use the same terminals and crimper to make water tight connectors for harness connections.
Screenshot_20241104_144533_Chrome.jpg
Regarding the placement of the fuse panel on the angled brace in the driver's side footbox:
- It's barely visible when the car is on the ground. You don't realize how low these are until they're done and sitting on the ground. Very different sight lines than when it's on jack stands or whatever during the build. I sure wouldn't move it for this reason alone.
- There's no issue with the fuse panel (or the bar itself) hitting your knees or whatever. Including climbing in/out and while driving. Granted, I'm average height (5'9") and "average weight" (I'm sticking to that...). If you're taller, you're going to need you seats further back and likely lower than mine. So I would expect a similar outcome.
- I would not recommend cutting pieces out of the frame. This frame is computer designed and all the pieces are there for a reason.
- While the Ron Francis harness is more optimized for the Roadster than the Coupe, if you move it you're asking for even more work than you already have. I modified mine a lot (check my build thread) but it would have been even worse had I placed it somewhere else. Plus with all the junk I stuffed under the dash, moving it wasn't an option anyway.
FWIW
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Mine is all custom but chose center of the car on the angled bell housing cover. Out of sight, as long as you’ve done your wiring right you should rarely need to access the fuses.