Engine Selection

[JRS Cobra 2025]

Newbie to the Cobra world, just ordered my Mk4 kit which is due to deliver in January. I am suddenly overwhelmed by the engine selection.
I want fuel injected reliability, not looking for crazy horsepower, fully respecting the light weight of this car.
I was originally thinking 5.0 coyote crate but there are so many choices out there. Also considering the Blueprint 302 as it has a more era-correct look. But 370 HP seems light compared to the Coyote crates at 480 HP.
The MK4 seems to be set up for Gen 1-3 Coyote. Is there a mounting difference for Gen 4? I ordered my kit with 5.0 mounts so I need to make a decision quick to get the correct mounts.
Experienced advise would be much appreciated.

[rthomas98]

I run a 302 coupled to a T5 and it dyno'd at blueprint for 255 hp. I promise you drivng the car it is plenty spicy. But if you have the means to go coyote (I did not) I would go coyote.

[TXeverydayDad]

There are no mounting differences between between the gen 3 and gen4x Coyote.

[john42]

I'm running a Ford Boss 347 (302 Stroker) 480tq/470hp. Very fun and checks all the boxes on the classic looks.

CLKE8991.JPG

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Have 10 years on my G1 Coyote. Engine is lightly modified starts every time is lightweight with very low maintenance expense. One clutch replaced. Original battery replaced at the 8 year mark. On the third set of tires. (100 tread ware) Brakes a number of times more due to experimental use AutoX/Street than necessity. With my normal driving patterns oil change once a year in the winter along with greasing all the Zerk fittings.

NOTE: along with the annual service its a good plan to check all your bolts to insure the are still tight. As I built & brought the bolts up to torque the were marked with a yellow bolt marker across the top down onto the surface they were attaching. Easy way to see it they came loose.

Other liquids & lubricants as recommended for the Mustang GT.

Number of unnecessary cosmetic & comfort changes. You can always find something to spend money on.

Unless anyone is looking for a period correct look I recommend the Coyote series.

[GoDadGo]

Stuff An LS-3 & TKX Tranny In That Bad Boy & All Will Be Right With The World!

https://paceperformance.com/LS3-525H...-TK6LS525.html

Your Dark Side Friend From Louisiana!

https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc

All kidding aside, just pick something that you feel comfortable taking care of.

[OB6]

Stuff An LS-3 & TKX Tranny In That Bad Boy & All Will Be Right With The World!

https://paceperformance.com/LS3-525H...-TK6LS525.html

Your Dark Side Friend From Louisiana!

https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc

All kidding aside, just pick something that you feel comfortable taking care of.

You beat me to it! Size of a SBF, power and reliability of a Coyote.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Stuff An LS-3 & TKX Tranny In That Bad Boy & All Will Be Right With The World!

https://paceperformance.com/LS3-525H...-TK6LS525.html

Plus a couple grand for accessory drive and oil pan.

Jeff

[gbranham]

There's no wrong answer, really. What's your experience with high-horsepower cars? I've had several high horsepower cars, and when I built my MkIII with a warmed-over 302 (325hp), it was fun, but I quickly wanted more. I didn't have the budget to do more, so I drove it for awhile, then sold it. Years later and many high performance cars later, I'm back to build a MkIV, but with a much better budget. I was going to go Gen3 Coyote, but changed my mind, and now I'm going with a 427 SBF. Similar HP to WT ratio as my last hot rod (2017 Z06), but with a shorter wheelbase and no nannies. Should be a hoot.

Your engine budget will in large part dictate your choice, in addition to your wrenching prowess. If you're not afraid to build an engine, you can perhaps get more HP for less money than a new crate solution. If you don't want to bother with building and/or fiddling with EFI or carb setups, just buy a SBF crate or Coyote solution, drop it in and go.

Greg

[GoDadGo]

https://youtu.be/FWTUvuUpwGM

[Rebostar]

I went with a 351W with a Scat 418 stroker kit and a 4.060 overbore. The math says it displaces 425 and change. I installed Edelbrock 205cc built up heads and Comp .512 IN & EX lift camshaft. Comp Cam roller rockers. Weiand dual plane intake and Holley 750. Similar equiped engines dyno at 450+. Its a 1969 block with the shorter deck hieght increasing the compression ratio to 10.5. This one will not get dynoed. I kept it old school with the carb, vee belt pullies from CVR, pent roof style rocker covers, and FE expansion tank. To the untrained eye it looks like a 427FE big block. So it checks the box for "old school big block appearance" with the lighter wieght of the Windsor and more power than I'll ever use.

I have a thing about needing a computer to tinker with my engines. I can live with it on my 2018 Mustang GT with a Roush 750 HP Stage !! Supercharger in it. After I installed the Supercharger It really irked me when I had to trailer the car to a Ford dealer to plug it into a computer that would link to Roush so "they" could set it up. No More!

DSC03161.JPGDSC03197.JPG

[Mike.Bray]

I have a thing about needing a computer to tinker with my engines. I can live with it on my 2018 Mustang GT with a Roush 750 HP Stage !! Supercharger in it. After I installed the Supercharger It really irked me when I had to trailer the car to a Ford dealer to plug it into a computer that would link to Roush so "they" could set it up. No More!

[Todd Baumann]

Several builds and different engine combos and I think by far the best overall is a Blueprint 347.
Great horsepower and torque with a 3yr 50K mile warranty.

[Rebostar]

Thanks Mike.
I laughed so hard I almost pissed my pants!

[Fman]

I went Dart block 427 stroker, Pro Flo 4 EFI, 500+hp/torque, it is fun to drop the hammer and very drivable around town. I prefer the sound and feel of a pushrod engine. No regrets at this point after 7k miles of driving the car. I also did power steering which I like having (Jones Racing). Best bang for your buck is probably a carb'd 302/347. Coyote is rock solid and also a great engine. All personal preference, good luck with your decision.

[Pizzman76]

Newbie to the Cobra world, just ordered my Mk4 kit which is due to deliver in January. I am suddenly overwhelmed by the engine selection.
I want fuel injected reliability, not looking for crazy horsepower, fully respecting the light weight of this car.
I was originally thinking 5.0 coyote crate but there are so many choices out there. Also considering the Blueprint 302 as it has a more era-correct look. But 370 HP seems light compared to the Coyote crates at 480 HP.
The MK4 seems to be set up for Gen 1-3 Coyote. Is there a mounting difference for Gen 4? I ordered my kit with 5.0 mounts so I need to make a decision quick to get the correct mounts.
Experienced advise would be much appreciated.

As you can see, this group is clearly diverse in the age-old question of what powertrain to use. I don't think you can go wrong no matter what you decide to go with, and honestly, most will tell you that this car doesn't need BIG power to be a fun vehicle. I think you need to figure out what is important to you; do you want a period-correct replica with a carburated pushrod or a modern twist with an overhead cam V8? Fortunately these days you can opt for the convenience of EFI no matter what direction you end up with.

Once I decided what I wanted this vehicle to be, it was an easy choice to run with the Coyote. I'm also fortunate enough to own a C3 Corvette with a SBC to get my fix with swearing at a carb once a year.

[narly1]

On the subject of what's important to the builder maybe you're a masochist like me and just want to be able to say that you built your own motor, LOL.

Earl

[Mike.Bray]

Thanks Mike.
I laughed so hard I almost pissed my pants!

Always happy to help!

You know, with the Pro Flow 4 you don't need a computer. You can tune it with your phone through Bluetooth. Maybe that would work for you

[Guardm16]

SBF 427 stroker for me. I wanted the easy start and drivability of an EFI, so I added the Holley Sniper 2 Fuel Injection, Hyperspark Ignition and Distributor. It is all "Plug and Play". The engine fired on the first hit and is running great.

[MaxVmo]

I was shopping engines and ended up choosing a Blueprint 347. Their build time took a while but their customer service has been impeccable. I looked at the 306 pretty hard and decided the step up to 347 was a better option for the big picture and didn’t break my budget too hard. Dyno sheet shows 425 HP, which for me is plenty. I also chose EFI, and a five speed transmission. I’m not a race driver (or real mechanic) and felt that it’s money well spent (plus the warranty added some good feelings). I will have the first start in the next month or so and I am very excited.

[JMD]

As you can see everyone has their own criteria. I think it's important to first know what you want the car to be and do. Personally, the cars I've enjoyed the most are lightweight (under 3k lbs) and have between 300-400hp. I've had a 600hp+ '69 Camaro and it was a lot of fun, but you never really could use all that power. The most fun car I ever owned was a 1993 Mazda RX-7 modded to ~330hp. It had the best combination of looks, power, and handling of any car I've ever driven. The only downside was the complexity of the engine. I chose the ~370hp 302 sbf because I wanted 1) simplicity 2) old school looks 3) a small, lightweight engine, and 4) the power to weight that this amount of hp provided.

Personally I prefer driving a 'slower' car 10/10ths instead of always having to modulate or never fully able to use big power. My happy place is a ~12 sec 1/4 mile and ~4.0 sec 0-60. Fast enough to be fun and can still get you in trouble, but not a car that is eager to kill you if you make a mistake. To me this makes the car more fun to drive overall.

I may want more later on (don't we all eventually?), but I don't think I'm ever going to do anything about it. I think the 347 is probably the best engine for most people...or the Coyote if you want something modern. But the hopped up 302 is perfect for me.

[Blitzboy54]

Started with a 306 SBF at about 360hp and have moved on to the Gen 2 Coyote with few upgrades that should net me about 450hp. I didn't want a snotty pushrod V8 this time. I have seen people do just the opposite. There really isn't a wrong answer.

[John Ibele]

Here are some hopefully helpful things to think about:

I'm sure you've already read that your biggest safety tool is what's between your ears, along with its connection to your right foot. So I wouldn't worry too much about 375 being 'too light' or 480 being too much to handle. You can do dumb things or stay safe with each.

There is a reason the Coyote has become so popular. Variable valve timing in a modern engine gives you great manners when you want to drive it like your daily driver, and without the things that go along with driving a 'snotty pushrod V8', as Blitzboy put it. But when you get your foot into it, everything you thought should be under the hood of a Cobra is there on demand. You wanted the reliability of fuel injection, and you'll have good reliability all the way around with that engine.

If you go pushrod V8, there are indeed a lot more options to think about. I would think much more about drivability and what you want to get out of the car than about horsepower. You can get more than 370 hp out of a boss 302 aftermarket block if you stroke it, and it can be both reliable and driveable. I have something like 420 fwhp in Dart block stroked to 347, but it's skewed more toward low end manners than high end power. My mild cam that will pull at 1600 rpm without complaining, and I don't have to piss the neighbors off when I don't want to. Georgie's touring pipes are a good part of that last statement.

You can get 'fuel injected reliability' as well, but again, have to sort through the options. I went the budget route with a Sniper, as many have done. While it's worked well for me, I wouldn't call it the fast, easy path to your objective. Regardless of fuel injection package, unless you get it dailed in as part of a crate engine, plan on either doing a deep dive into EFI tuning or paying for a tune.

My sense is you'll stay on the Coyote path, but you're having trouble parting with notion of having 'old school' under the hood. This is a natural part of the build process, saying goodbye to all the 'other cars' we could have chosen, and committing to the one car we'll end up having in the garage. Eventually we all get tired of hemming and hawing over options and pick one. If you pick the Coyote, I can't imagine you being disappointed with the sound, manners, power or reliability. As for what shows when you lift up the hood, I think they can look great. There's a lot of different kinds of great out there - one of the reasons I love the choices that FFR left to all of us builders.

Good luck and happy building. You've got a great adventure ahead of you.

[kevin j sullivan]

Newbie to the Cobra world, just ordered my Mk4 kit which is due to deliver in January. I am suddenly overwhelmed by the engine selection.
I want fuel injected reliability, not looking for crazy horsepower, fully respecting the light weight of this car.
I was originally thinking 5.0 coyote crate but there are so many choices out there. Also considering the Blueprint 302 as it has a more era-correct look. But 370 HP seems light compared to the Coyote crates at 480 HP.
The MK4 seems to be set up for Gen 1-3 Coyote. Is there a mounting difference for Gen 4? I ordered my kit with 5.0 mounts so I need to make a decision quick to get the correct mounts.
Experienced advise would be much appreciated.

If you want power, go with the Coyote. Factory crate, easy to modify and bullet proof.

[bobl]

Something to keep in mind. Most aftermarket engines are dyno'd with dyno headers, no mufflers or accessories, whereas OEM engines are measured with stock exhaust, mufflers and all accessories. Additionally OEM uses SAE-Net correction factor and most aftermarkets use a STD correction factor, which shows a higher HP number. So they are not comparing apples to apples. The OEM engines would produce 20-30 more HP if measured the same way as aftermarket. Not a big deal, buy something to be aware of when comparing.

[Mike.Bray]

If you want power, go with the Coyote.

If you want real power go with a 427W.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Something to keep in mind. Most aftermarket engines are dyno'd with dyno headers, no mufflers or accessories, whereas OEM engines are measured with stock exhaust, mufflers and all accessories. Additionally OEM uses SAE-Net correction factor and most aftermarkets use a STD correction factor, which shows a higher HP number. So they are not comparing apples to apples. The OEM engines would produce 20-30 more HP if measured the same way as aftermarket. Not a big deal, buy something to be aware of when comparing.

Also a change in Dyno brand can increase or decrease the rating.

[TBull]

I really like my setup. It's a little different from most. A 347 big bore with 195 AFR Comp heads, cam sync, Fuel injection and coil near plug. You have the faster regs of a.331 with more torque than a standard 347. The valves are.unshrouded for better air flow and if you still want more power, throw a supercharger on it when you are ready. It's a wild ride.

[lewma]

I did a Coyote 5.0 in my MK4 build and a Blueprint LS427 in my Coupe build. Coyote was easier to integrate with the build, FFR had everything I need. Turn the key and drive ( with a minor tune from Lund ). Blueprint is a totally different story. Harder to integrate with the build and I'm still tuning the engine. Blueprint support is great but from what I've seen, more involved than the turnkey Coyote engine.

[Avalanche325]

You beat me to it! Size of a SBF, power and reliability of a Coyote.

And resale value of a Pinto.

LOL

[OB6]

And resale value of a Pinto.

LOL

I'm not so sure about that anymore. These things are becoming less and less "Cobras", and more of a modern day hot rod. Granted not a Roadster, but this LS3 Coupe fetched good money:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...upe-replica-5/

And I'll say it again, the LS has more in common with the original power plant than the Coyote ever will.

[Mike.Bray]

And resale value of a Pinto.

LOL

If you want to go down that road then your only options are a 289 SBF or a 427 FE.

Edit, you could also do a 260, forgot about those early ones.

[Rebostar]

They are all great engines with a long history of making good power with plenty of aftermarket parts. I think the question boils down to what you ulimately want your Cobra to be. All of us make our own versions of these cars. Some are purests who want it as close to the origonal Cobras as their budget will allow. I think the going price for a 427 FE fully rebuilt is somewhere north of 25K. (ask me how I know). A Windsor based 427 can be built for around 10K, bought for close to 15K. All the 1965 cars were all built with Ford engines so most want to stick with Ford. There are gazillions of Chevy motors out there for small money if cost is a primary issue. Personaly I'm a Ford guy as I've been burned badly with GM products. So for me any GM engine is off the table. Thats just my personal prefrence, as is the case with everyone in all the above posts. You wont go wrong with a 302 or 351 based stroker. They can be built to come close to the power of the Coyote which brings modern reliability but lacks the nastalga of the origonal pushrod engines. Budget and skill level (can you build your own engine?) will be the deternining factors.
What ever you chose. First Rule: HAVE FUN!!!This is a "hobby".
Happy trails!

[rich grsc]

I'm not so sure about that anymore. These things are becoming less and less "Cobras", and more of a modern day hot rod. Granted not a Roadster, but this LS3 Coupe fetched good money:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...upe-replica-5/

And I'll say it again, the LS has more in common with the original power plant than the Coyote ever will.

If you want to go down that road then your only options are a 289 SBF or a 427 FE.

Edit, you could also do a 260, forgot about those early ones.

God forbid anyone makes a joke.

[Justin]

Engine choice is tough for most.

I like the look of the older engines. It is an old car. Power can be made with anything.

There is a price for power. So consider that.

I remember working for a Custom Hot Rod shop back in 2002. A guy brought in an FFR and wanted more power. It had a 5.0HO in it. We simply put an e-cam, Edelbrock heads, intake, TB and MAF. The car went from 210 at the tires to 320 at the tires. The guy was over the moon happy. I think the bill was like $3,000. It was actually a VERY fun test ride. The car wasn't crazy but scooted to 100mph quite quickly.

I have decided to drop some 401k and go 427w. 10.5:1 with some ok heads and it should make 550hp pretty easily. The end goal will be to make 500 at the tire. I think the air cleaner and exhaust will be the limiting factor if I had to guess.

In the end it just comes down to what YOU want from the car. Good luck!

[OB6]

God forbid anyone makes a joke.

Touche 😀

[rich grsc]

Been guilt of the same. Humor doesn't always read as that, emoji's help a lot.

[TBull]

I always said there should be a font for sarcasm. Maybe a backward Italics.

[Railroad]

Test

[JMD]

Test

I'm offended already.