Steve's 35 Truck Build

[TxMike64]

...I also noticed the down pipe on the passenger side was interfering with the starter mount in the bellhousing ... I ordered a 90 degree oil filter adapter, there was a small clearance issue wit the full size oil filter and the power steering motor.

I have the same issue with the passenger side downpipe on my build ('33 HR, 302/AOD). How did you resolve it? It seems no matter how much I move things around, the only way to get stuff in the correct location/orientation is going to require bashing-in the downpipe to get it closer to the trans.

Again I have the same issue with the oil filter hitting the PS Motor. I think to resolve it I'm going to "adjust" the engine mounts with a die grinder to slot the holes, and put spacers between the mounts and the block. This will move the engine up and forward to gain me clearance from the PS Motor and get my driveshaft angle correct.

[Guardm16]

Has anyone ever used on of these before? Are they any good? I need to move the Oil Filter, it is in the way of the Power Steering motor. This would turn the filter 90 degrees forward.

oil filter 90.PNG

[Guardm16]

I have the same issue with the passenger side downpipe on my build ('33 HR, 302/AOD). How did you resolve it? It seems no matter how much I move things around, the only way to get stuff in the correct location/orientation is going to require bashing-in the downpipe to get it closer to the trans.

Again I have the same issue with the oil filter hitting the PS Motor. I think to resolve it I'm going to "adjust" the engine mounts with a die grinder to slot the holes, and put spacers between the mounts and the block. This will move the engine up and forward to gain me clearance from the PS Motor and get my driveshaft angle correct.

On the downpipe, I used MAP gas to heat the pipe and then used a 1.5 inch Impact socket as a "die" and drove it into the pipe. I used a 6" extension to keep my hands out of the way. It only took a few good hits on the socket. I only needed about 1/4 inch or so of a linear dimple. I looked at the Driver's side headers from BBK, there is a square indentation on one of the pipes, I assume that is for steering shaft clearance on some models. Anyway, the dimple I did is not a large as that one, so I figured; good for the Goose"

BBK Headers.PNG

I ordered on of the 90 degree oil filter adapters to clear the power steering motor, Still would like to hear feedback from others on that before I put it on $15K engine.

oil filter 90.PNG

I also don't have as much room from the crank pully to the steering rack, I don't think I could move the engine forward much. I have CVF Racing serpentine belts and it is 8 ribs wide, therefore further forward on the chassis.

[TxMike64]

There was an episode of Engine Masters where they beat the crap out of multiple header primary tubes and saw zero reduction in power. I think because you're not really reducing the cross-section area - only deforming it's shape - that the flow volume/velocity is unaffected. I have no qualms about doing it, other than I don't want it to look bad.

You should have no concerns about running that filter adapter - they've been used for years in performance applications. LMR and Summit have pretty good prices on them. I do like the design of the old cast style from Ford Motorsport (I guess they call it Ford Performance or Ford Racing now) like THIS instead of the new billet one, but it's not available anymore. I do like to Summit one, only because it's black. Either one should be fine - just make sure it's clean inside with no burrs from threading and it should pose no risk to your new motor.

Ah, yeah, those accessory drives look nice, but are quite large and bulky IMO. I'm using an Explorer timing cover, water pump, and crank pully/balancer - it is all very short and compact. I designed/machined by own alternator mount and combination idler mount / coil mount. The coil you see in my picture is a Hyperspark coil, I just removed the bracket and mounted it to my bracket.

PXL_20240610_184650199.jpg PXL_20240610_184630914.jpg PXL_20240610_184810476.jpg

[Guardm16]

TxMike64 wrote, "There was an episode of Engine Masters where they beat the crap out of multiple header primary tubes and saw zero reduction in power. I think because you're not really reducing the cross-section area - only deforming it's shape - that the flow volume/velocity is unaffected. I have no qualms about doing it, other than I don't want it to look bad."

While the down pipe was in place and touching the edge of the starter blister on the bell housing, I used a sharpie to mark a line showing the contact patch. I was able to align my big socket with the mark to produce the desired dimple. I had a stack of leather welding gloves under the down pipe while it was on the shop floor for the beating. lol. Surprisingly, when the MAP Gas was applied, the sharpie line never really burned off completely, it turned a light gray color but remained visible. The downpipe did go through the color change as it heated: Blue, Yellow etc. But, returned to the nice ceramic "chrome" look once it cooled. The dimple lined up well and is not visible at all.

[Guardm16]

OK, progress is being made. The bracket for the Coil has been made and installed. The plug wire separators are installed. The fuel line and return are complete. I rolled her out of the garage a bit and back in, man this this is easy to push around, like rolling a tire.

Left.jpg
Right.jpg
Sun.jpg

I have a few friends on their way, to help put the cab on tonight. Then the fun starts, fitting the doors, all the wiring, etc.

[Chris Wingardh]

Not familiar with what you show, but i re-located my oil filter to the firewall, below the steering rod.

[Guardm16]

The cab is back on. Now it looks like a truck.

Cab 2.jpg
Cab 3.jpg
cab 4.jpg
Cab 6.jpg

Sorry for the Cheezy selfie, but I am damn proud.

[Chris Wingardh]

Now, get the doors fitted.....they are Bixxh

[Guardm16]

Radiator issues. It looks to me that the "Choice" of ride height makes a difference on the grill as well. I never considered this when selecting the "Higher" height. I needed the ground clearance as my subdivision has several large speed bumps. Using the lower holes on the frame to raise ride, also means the radiator mount uses the lower mounting point on the chassis and thus the entire grill is lower relative to the engine bay and cab of the truck. (If any of that makes sense)

Attachment 201518

Because the radiator is lower on the chassis, the lower radiator hose appears to point directly at the lower suspension cross plate that ties the two front lower A arms tot he frame. Not sure how to solve this one without cutting the plate in the middle.

lower hose.jpg

[Guardm16]

So Lew suggested using the upper hole for the radiator mount and the lower for the suspension. Is this the answer everyone has used? Thanks again Lew.

[Brave Salmon]

Has anyone ever used on of these before? Are they any good? I need to move the Oil Filter, it is in the way of the Power Steering motor. This would turn the filter 90 degrees forward.

oil filter 90.PNG

On my 33 with 347sbf, I found a smaller oil filter that fit with plenty of clearance. Don't know #as car was sold but look around. I used Wix only

[Guardm16]

So here it is after 5 months of work, the first start of my 35 truck. Prestige Motorsports 427 with 536 HP. Holley Sniper 2 Fuel Injection. Started on the first crank, great work on the engine build guys.

https://youtu.be/O0JQ-pZeQXU

Hope the link works.

[Guardm16]

I was hooking up the throttle cable ball link on my Holley Sniper 2 and broke the ball link. Anyone have a good source for these cable ball links? I stripped one. I can find several that use threaded rod, but none for the cable input.

Ball Link.PNG

Actually I need the correct size on the ball side, but I couldn't find a picture of that in the build manual

[Just 1 More]

I was hooking up the throttle cable ball link on my Holley Sniper 2 and broke the ball link. Anyone have a good source for these cable ball links? I stripped one. I can find several that use threaded rod, but none for the cable input.

Ball Link.PNG

Actually I need the correct size on the ball side, but I couldn't find a picture of that in the build manual

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-wca-1034

[Guardm16]

Thank you J1M, but Ouch $34.00 plus shipping, a bit steep.

This is the part I am looking for, I can find several that are 10mm and larger. I measured the one in the kit as 1/4" ball or 6.35mm.


ball stud.PNG

[Just 1 More]

Thank you J1M, but Ouch $34.00 plus shipping, a bit steep.

This is the part I am looking for, I can find several that are 10mm and larger. I measured the one in the kit as 1/4" ball or 6.35mm.


ball stud.PNG

ACE hardware has some ends that might work, also check NAPA

[Guardm16]

ACE hardware has some ends that might work, also check NAPA

I checked both. LOL Ace had complete ball ends and the threaded link, but they were not separable and could not attach to the cable. Napa looked at me and asked what carburetor it came from, I said that doesn't matter, it's the cable link I need, it can bolt onto any carburetor. Then the guy disappeared to the back for about 10 minutes, reemerged with nothing more than a shake of his head, handed me my part and disappeared again.

[TxMike64]

Search for "Carb Ball Stud"

https://allcarbs.com/product/carbure...tle-ball-stud/

https://a.co/d/bMalBnF

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...ent/edb0/12413

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-system...GCXNvP_nNwECQI

[Dmp0001]

These are going to look awesome on that truck!

[Guardm16]

grill and hood.jpggrill and hood.jpg

Things are progressing slowly:
The parking brake is installed, I had to fabricate a link for that. The exhaust "H" pipe took up some of the space needed for the supplied connection.
Bed is going on. I added a piece of 1.5x1.5 aluminum angle to the "Cab to bed" area, makes a much better fit.
The AOD is completely hooked up with B&M shifter and the Lokar TV cable is installed. I hope this weekend to be able to adjust the line pressure and go GO-KARTING!!!!!

More pictures to follow this weekend

cable link.png
So here is the link I made for the e-brake. I put in an "H" pipe crossover on the exhaust so I had to create a way to not burn up the cables. The H pipe takes up the same real estate as the cable mount. So I moved it aft and added a length of 3/8 stainless steel all -thread and stainless steel tube as a guide. Connected to eash end of the all-thread are ball links for flexibility. The system works very well.

[Guardm16]

Go-Kart complete. The first drive went well. I spent two days tinkering to get the transmission line pressure correct and the radiator fan hooked up and set to come on at a good temp. My wife added a little music to celebrate. Another milestone met.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Bu6CY3BrmXE

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/uRNR3bo-iEE

[Guardm16]

Started working on the body (Bed First) The plan is to button up the rear end then start on the doors and hood.

I added two vents to the rear of the Stainless bed, these are to help clear air from the transmission cooler that sits in front of the fuel tank. Also gives access to the fuel tank sending unit and the in tank fuel pump.
I also added an aluminum hatch over the battery for easy access there.
After those were cut, I used carbon fiber (look) vinyl wrap on the bed and created four bed strips out of 1 1/2 inch wide aluminum flat bar. These will keep the beer cooler from scratching the wrap.

I put down 1/8 thick by 1 inch wide rubber window seal (sticky on one side) on the bed frame from front to back on every square tube behind the cab. This was done to limit the rattle of the bed. I also used nut-zerts in the frame to secure the stainless steel bed to the frame.
Rear Quarter.jpg
Back.jpg
Bed vent.jpg

The bed sides have been fit, and then removed for body work. If you look closely at the side to front bed joint, you will see a piece of 1 inch angle aluminum used to square and secure the sides and front bed.
Bed sides.jpg

The side exhaust has also been roughed in. These will have a stainless ring on the body (the stainless sheet metal cut from the bed openings will be used) These are just behind the cab doors and pass through the 1x1 inch top and bottom chassis rails. When adjusted and complete, they will not stick out quite so far. Not flush, but maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 reveal.
Exhause cut outs.jpg

[Guardm16]

More progress:
Doors are being fitted
Hood has be extended - I cut the radiator surround and then bolted and bonded the section to the front of the hood. I really like the look of the hood on the Speedstar and 33 Hotrod. I have also cut a section of the lower surround up to just below the Upper control arms. I have always loved the look of the inboard suspension, and don't want to hide it
Door drivers side.jpg
left side.jpg
Hood Drivers Side.jpg
Hood from front.jpg

I will grind down the heads of the bolts attaching the surround, then use fiberglass filler to smooth the lines. I will add a thin flat of aluminum to the underside of the seam and fiberglass that in place, just to be 100% sure.

[Guardm16]

Not much to report other than continuing to wrestle with the doors. Not much in the way of visible progress other than I did install the wipers.

Wipers.jpg

[CA_PI]

Just read your build thread. Thanks for posting. Very enlightening. Are you going to use carbon fiber wrap on thie sides of the bed as well or just the bottom and paint the sides to match the color of the truck?

[Guardm16]

Just read your build thread. Thanks for posting. Very enlightening. Are you going to use carbon fiber wrap on thie sides of the bed as well or just the bottom and paint the sides to match the color of the truck?

I have a brushed aluminum wrap for the inside of the bed. To match the firewall. But that will be after paint.

[Guardm16]

The doors are on and latched. I rough trimmed areas needed after I set the hinges to get them to close and latch. Then used tape around the edges and a $3.00 child's school compass to scribe the gap all the way around. the drivers rood is fully trimmed, the passenger door still needs the "gap" treatment.

Drivers door.jpg
Passenger door.jpg

I will work on the door handles after paint. For now, I just reach in to unlatch.

[jcarcustom]

Very interesting project. I saw a photo that you are using as a reference in the design of your project, are you going to keep it in the military style?

[Guardm16]

Very interesting project. I saw a photo that you are using as a reference in the design of your project, are you going to keep it in the military style?

Yes, I am. I am retired Army. The Name of the Truck is FUBAR. Few people know the real story. (totally made up) FUBAR is the vehicle that Kilroy used to get deep into occupied Europe. Kilroy was famous for leaving his "mark" all around Europe ahead of the advancing Allies. This mark was comforting to the invasion troops as well as striking fear into the German's who never could catch up to Kilroy. I am using Dodge F-8 green

Green.jpgKilroy.JPG

[Guardm16]

I am not running engine side covers or fenders and I like the lean in the Hot Rod grill. I am sure that FFR just makes a happy medium fit for all the combinations. I cut the grill cowl and made my hood more like the Hot Rod or Speed star. With the lean in the grill, I had plenty of hood and had to create gaps on both the front and the back.

grill.jpg
Hood Drivers Side.jpg
Hood from front.jpg
Hood with filler.jpg

I used 1/4 counter sunk bolts to attach the cowl to the hood, added some aluminum strips underneath for strength and fiberglassed everything in. Long strand fiberglass filler for the gap and plenty of sanding.

I still have to add little triangle pieces to the front corners of the hood, but all in all I like the results,

[Guardm16]

So I am not sure if this is even a problem, but a concern of mine is the lower radiator hose hanging under the chassis at the lower A-arm mounts. While it it higher than the tip of the grill, It just looks like road debris could take out the lower hose.
This is my solution.

Hose cover 1.jpg
First out of cardboard. I love my CAD system "Cardboard Aided Design"

Rock guard.jpg
Then aluminum. I am still shaping, mostly over my knee and a little on the bench vise (sorry, no sheet metal brake in my shop"
I will attach with bolts and Nut-zerts so that I can remove it quickly.

I used 1/16th aluminum (had it on hand) but could have used thinner. The curve of the cover makes it very strong.
Still have more shaping to do to reach the final form and function, but happy so far.

[Guardm16]

I am almost 100% in bodywork mode now. Hood, and doors are smoothed to 180 grit with minimal filler. I will get up to 300 on everything before I take it in for paint.

I am working on a more updated rear section: NASCAR Truck style wing, defuser, tail lights etc. So I have never been excited about the tailgate latch and strap. I would like to have the ability to lower the tailgate and I have cut out the Roll pan to gain access to the top of the gas tank. I decided to try these pushbutton latches mounted on the tailgate.

Attachment 207553
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CR3439H8...fed_asin_title

I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Grandpas Garage]

So Lew suggested using the upper hole for the radiator mount and the lower for the suspension. Is this the answer everyone has used? Thanks again Lew.

I used the lower hole for the suspension and the upper for the rad bracket. I then drilled and tapped a 1/4" hole in the frame and install a 1/4" bolt to lign up with the hole in the bracket in to maintain the bracket in its correct location. Works just fine